• API Cast Steel Check Valve 80 mm in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 1
  • API Cast Steel Check Valve 80 mm in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 2
  • API Cast Steel Check Valve 80 mm in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 3
API Cast Steel Check Valve 80 mm in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237

API Cast Steel Check Valve 80 mm in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 pc
Supply Capability:
100 pc/month

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The features of check valve

Bolted Bonnet;Swing and lift disc;Metallic seating surfaces.

Body and Bonnet Connection

The body and bonnet of Class150~Class900 check valves are usually with studs and nuts.And the body and bonnet of Class1500~Class2500 check valves are usually of pressurized seal design.                                                                                                         

Body-To-Bonnet Joint

Stainless steel + flesible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 150 and Class 300 check valve;Stainless steel + flexible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 600 check valve,and joint gasket is also optional for Class 600 check valve;Ring joint gasket is used for Class900 check valve;Pressurized seal design is used for Class 1500~Class 2500 check valves.

Seat

For carbon steel check valve,the seat is usually forged steel.The sealing surface of the seat is spray welded with hard alloy specified by the customer.Renewable threaded seat is used for NPS<10 check valves ,and welded on seat can be also optional if being requested by the customer.Welded on seat is used for NPS>12 crbon steel gate valves .Forstainless steel check valve,integral seat is usually adopted ,or to weld hard alloy directly integrally.Threaded or welded on seat is also optional for stainless steel check valve if being requested by the customer.


Standard   Criteria

 ASME/ANSI/API customize   

Pressure   Rating

 150   Class  300 Class  600 Class  900   Class  1500 Class  2500 Class customize 

Valve   Size

 50   mm  65 mm  80 mm  100 mm  125   mm  150 mm  200 mm  250 mm 300   mm  350 mm  400 mm  450 mm  500   mm  600 mm  650 mm  700 mm 750 mm




 2   inch  2.5 inch  3 inch  4 inch  5   inch  6 inch  8 inch  10 inch  12   inch 14 inch  16 inch  18 inch  20   inch  24 inch  26 inch  28 inch  30   inch customize 

Actuator

 Automatic customize 

Connection

 Butt Welding  Flange   RF  Flange RTJ customize 

1-Body Material

 A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M customize 

2-Seat ring

 A105+13Cr  A351-CF8M  A351-CF8  A105+Tool   Steel customize 

3-Disc

 13Cr+A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M  Tool Steel+A216   WCB customize 

4-Arm

 A351-CF8M  A216   WCB  A351-CF8 customize 

5-Nut

 A194-8  A194   2H  A194 8M customize 

6-Arm pin

 A182-F316  A182-F6a  A182-F304 customize   

7-Yoke

 A351-CF8M  A216   WCB  A351-CF8 customize 

8-Bonnet nut

 A194 2H  A194   8M  A194-8 customize 

9-Bonnet bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B8M  A193-B7 customize   

10-Bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B7  A193-B8M customize   

11-Gasket

 graphite+304  316+graphite customize   

12-Bonnet

 A351-CF8  A216   WCB  A351-CF8M customize 

13-Eye bolt

 A181 customize 

Design Standard

 API 6D  BS   1868 customize 

Connection Standard

 API 605  ASME B   16.25-2007  ASME B 16.47A  ASME B 16.47B  ASME   B 16.5  MSS SP-44 customize 

Test Standard

 API 598  API   6D customize 

Face to Face

 ASME B 16.10 customize 

Pressure-temperature ratings

 ASME B   16.34-2004 customize 

Wall thickness dimension

 API 600  BS   1868 customize 


Q: The pump is working fine on the presta valve on my back tire, but it is not working on the other presta valve. It seems like the the presta valve isn't sticking out far enough out of the tube for the pump to be able to lock in on it. What could be causing this?
If is it a deep V wheel you need a tube with the proper extension for the value, or a presta valve extender. Next time you replace the tube measure how long the value is in mm and get a tube with a longer valve stem.
Q: The hot water shutoff valve to the washing machine was dripping. I removed the packing nut and put in new packing over the weekend. Problem is that the packing nut seems to only go back on at an angle no matter what I do...it may have already been that way though. The valve isn't currently dripping, but I'm not liking the way the packing nut only goes on at an angle. Would it be crazy to keep the existing valve if I keep an eye on it and over time it doesn't drip, or is it too risky to keep this valve given that the packing nut is on at a funny angle? (Local plumbers here in Northern NJ all want around $350 if I were to replace both the hot and cold with a watts single handle valve.) Thanks, J.
It is your house if your uncomfortable with the packing nut being cross threaded then have it replaced otherwise if it isn't leaking just keep an eye on it. by chance do you turn your water valves on and off alot? because if you do you are causing the packing to deteriorate.
Q: Specify eight technical requirements that you would consider important, when deciding upon a particular control valve?
1] I assume that by control valve you mean a variable orifice valve, not an on/off valve. 2] An answerer to your other question listed Metallurgy, temperature, pressure and shutoff requirement To which I note that if you need a tight shutoff you should not trust a control valve to do that, but should add an on/off valve in series. Also, metallurgy covers corrosion requirements but not obviously so 3] To which I add: flow rate [or Cv] and pressure drop fail open or fail closed response time signal input [3-15 psi, 4-20 mA, 1-5V, etc] connections [ie, fitting type] packed vs sealed might need to look at hard seat materials and/or replaceable seats, to control erosion reliability, ease of maintenance, availability of spares, timing on that vendor permanence [ie, are they entering bankruptcy ?] Cost
Q: I have the correct tools and have done this before. All I want to do is change all three valves that operate the water (hot,diverter,cold). The shower is leaking. I want to change all three valves to stop the leak. I will call a plumber if I can't change the valves or stop the leak. Please tell me what tools I need and I'll begin from there. I have three handles/valves in the shower(cold,diverter,hot).The cold is here # and the diverter is in the center which is here # and the hot is here #. They all line up like this c# diverter# h#. These are how the valves are set up # # #.
Drill out the set screw. It's most likely brass and will drill out easily. Cut an access in the wall behind your shower wall and just replace the whole thing. This will probably be the easiest fix. It may sound like a lot, but in the end you will most likely save time.
Q: ok so my 1993 bonneville started shaking and its smells like gas fumes in the car, so i cant drive it cause i have a newborn baby.so i took it to the dealership, they said codes 53,54,55,42,66 came up. they said i needed a new cadiletic converter, so i went to a local muffler shop. they said it was glowing cause it was so hot and said that wasnt the problem.i called the dealership back and they said they cleaned the egr vavle but said maybe it needs to be replaced, well before i spend any money i wanted to get everyones opinion, the car drive great, only shake when ur at idle. and smells awful inside uld this be the egr valve ?
You most likely have a bad egr valve. The valve is stuck open, that is why the idle is so bad. In normal operation, the egr is never open at idle. The valve being open at idle causes the map sensor to misread the manifold vacuum. This make the computer dump extra fuel through the injectors. That make the catalytic converter overheat, because there is raw fuel going into it. You may have already ruined the converter, but you want to deal with the egr valve first, then see if the catalytic converter is bad.
Q: I need to make a one way valve that would allow water or other fluid one way but if there is too much pressure on the opposite side the valve will close and stop water from flowing backward. Can anyone help?
You are looking for whats called an RP or back flow device. These may be sold at home depot. However, I know your local plumbing supply house would carry them.
Q: I'm installing a shut off valve under my sink. can you tell me all the materials that i need to install it by myself because to hire some body else is very expensive where i live. i need to change the old ones because they are leaking very bad when i want to use the sink.thanks a lot
It sounds to me like they are leaking from the handle when you turn them on to use your sink? If this is the case all you need to do is shut iff the main take the screw out of the handle and remove handle. Then take off the packing nut and replace the packing material. There are only two types of packing either an O ring or rops packing. Talk to the guy at your local hardware store he can tell you what you have. You may not have to replace the actual shut off valve.
Q: Its a 1981 Monte Carlo SS with a GM 350 crate motor. There is oil all over the heads valve covers. It isn't my car, but I was thinking of buying it..Thank you.
It needs a new valve cover gasket which is cheap and easy to replace. Gaskets dry up and break from heat and age. Then all that sloshing oil underneath gets out. Loose valve cover bolts can also be a problem. And the valve cover may have been damaged by someone over-tightening the bolts. This thing is a 100 in human years. What happened to the valve cover gasket (rot from heat and age) is just one example of what has probably happened to many things on it - other gaskets, seals, hoses, tires and belts. Have seller prove he did a timing belt change when needed. It needed that at about 100k or 11 years ago. If seller can prove it, then guess what? It now needs another timing belt.
Q: Ok i just be nt a valve on my 97 eclipse gst. I did a compression test and all my other cylinders were at 175psi which is good(thank god).My 3rd cylinder is only at 25psi.My mechanic will do the installation of the new valve but his friend has to do a valve job and re condition the whole head. Just because i guess your suppose to re condotion and clean the whiole head when this happens. What do u think a ball park estimate would be for this kind of work?I think he is going to replace all of the valves and seals y hes got the head off. The car has 100k on it and there is nothing else wrong with it. The guy i bought it from put a brand new bosch alternator and waterpump in and it also has a new timing belt so i dont have to worry about it skipping on me. WHAT DO YOU ALL THINK WHAT I SHOULD DO? HOW MUCH WILL IT BE? IS IT WORTH RECONDITIONING THE WHOLE HEAD? THX ALOT FOR YOUR INPUT.
1500+
Q: i have a 1991 rm125 and i want to open the power valves myself can anyone tell me how to do thisTHANKS!
They open different amounts at different RPM ranges. Opening them all the way would cause the engine to have zero power until the engine is reving wide open.

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