High Quality Manual Ball Valve Stainless Stee Ball Valve

High Quality Manual Ball Valve Stainless Stee Ball Valve

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 0 pc

Supply Capability:: 50000 pc/month

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1.Features

The appearance is beautiful.
Material conform to the standard.
Every size produce according to the standard.

2.Specification

1. CF8M/CF8,SS316/SS04,1.4408/1.4301

2. Carbon Steel Ball Valve,with threaded ends ,BSPT,NPT .
3. Applicable media: Water Oil ,Steam, Nitric acid, Acetic acid.
4. Nominal pressure: 1.6. 2.5. 4.0. 6.4Mpa
5. Main size: 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" 3/4" 1" 1-1/4" 1-1/2"2" 2-1/2" 3" 4"
6. Materials of main parts:
7. Valve body: WCB ,CF8, CF8M
8. Stem: 304 316
9. BALL: 304 316
10. Packing: PTFE.
11. Sealing: PTFE

3.Trade Terms

Payment:T/T,30% deposit;70% balance before shipment.

4.Application

Drinking Water Plants

Industrial Water Treatment Plant

Water Softener & Purifier

Water Treatment Plants

Filtration and Sedimentation Units

Flower water treatment

Solar energy water treatment system

Boiler water treatment system

Swimming Pool Filtration Plant, etc.

5.Why Choose us?

1.We are a factory who focus on produce valves for 20years.

Adhere To Quality Is Our Belief.

2.All valves according the drawings to produce and 100% pressure testing,100% material inspection.

3.We use ERP system to improve the work efficiency.

6.Picture

High Quality Manual Ball Valve Stainless Stee Ball Valve

Q: And why is it so expensive?So after many months of trying to figure out why my 93 Mercury Cougar V6 has been breaking down chronically, I was recently told it needed a valve job. At 21 years old and just over 83k, l suppose that's the big issue.What exactly is replaced/fixed with a valve job? Will my car run like new AND STAY THAT WAY? Thanks :): The valves (located in the cylinder head) allows fuel/air into the cylinder and burned exhaust gases out. Valve jobs can be expensive if they have to replace the valves, and/or valve guides, valve seals, valve seats, valve springs, etc. A car with 83k miles should not need a valve job unless is was very poorly maintained. I think your mechanic is looking for some money from you. Although it's possible that one or more of those items you've listed had failed, I've NEVER had to replace a single one of those items in ANY car I've ever owned. All of my cars have lasted over 200k miles and not once have I had to replace any of those items. I've been driving for over 48 years. Find another mechanic before you go broke.

Q: Glob Valve or Gate Valve: Never heard it called a globe valve. Around here the term ball valve is more common.I have seen a few gate valves on some crew boats but that's the exception rather the rule.Ball valves are way more common. In any case,once installed on a boat they become sea cocks.

Q: HowdyWas taking apart a screw down NR valve and screw lift valve and noticed the spindles were made out of different materials. Brass and Steel.I am aware that brass is non corrosive but why use steel in the other valve? Is it due to their operation, do they come or not come in contact with fluids? Is one cheaper than the other?The screw lift globe valve had a steel spindle and the screw down nr glove valve had a brass spindle.Also, if anyone knows what materials are used in the valve lid and seat are made of.Any ideas?Cheers: *In steam service , steam flashing is one of the factor which erode the spindle ( say valve stem) *The stem serves as a connector from the actuator to the inside of the valve and transmits this actuation force. Stems are either smooth for actuator controlled valves or threaded for manual valves. The smooth stems are surrounded by packing material to prevent leaking material from the valve. This packing is a wearable material and will have to be replaced during maintenance. With a smooth stem the ends are threaded to allow connection to the plug and the actuator. The stem must not only withstand a large amount of compression force during valve closure, but also have high tensile strength during valve opening. In addition, the stem must be very straight, or have low run out, in order to ensure good valve closure. This minimum run out also minimizes wear of the packing contained in the bonnet, which provides the seal against leakage. The stem may be provided with a shroud over the packing nut to prevent foreign bodies entering the packing material, which would accelerate wear. Disc material: Cast Iron or Ductile Iron Disc Aluminum-bronze Disc Stainless Steel Disc Nickel-plated Ductile Iron Lid material: engineering plastics, Cast Iron. Seat material[hard/soft]: Seats can be integral to the valve body, that is hard metal or plastic. *Hard seat: Hardened steel,Cast Iron,EN-52 forging steel Valve Seats are made from Chrome Alloy Steel which has a high wear resistance at high temperature. Nearly all metal seated valves leak, even though some leaks are extremely small. *Soft seats can be fitted to the valve body and made of materials such as PTFE or various elastomers such as NBR, EPDM, FKM. Each of these soft materials is limited by temperature (rough maximum temperatures are listed below) NBR 80 °C EPDM 120 °C FKM 170 °C PTFE 200 °C

Q: Com wires attached to com and all individual valve wires are attached. The valves work manually( turn on by hand), I open the valve to allow the box to take over and the sprinklers run. Is this just residual water in the lines??: I would test the leads inside the control box first... You will have to run the controls manually to troubleshoot the problem. Get a voltage meter to test for the 24 volts at the transformer connections inside the box... If you do not have the 24 volts then the problem will be the transformer. If you have the correct voltage from the transformer then you can test each of the station terminals to common. Test through each station to see if you have 24 volts at each station terminal, but you may have to remove the wires off to test. If you do not have power coming from each station… then the problem will be the rain bird control. The next step would be testing the wires… If you reconnect the wires… test just prior at each valve location to see if you have the 24 volts between the common and each station wire… if you can prove out that there is 24 volts at this location then you’re down to the final testing. Reconnect the valves – one side to the common and the other to each station wire… Getting the power (24v) to the valve should have cleared your problem. Good Luck… Running the valves manually will not affect the operation of the rainbird control... but with my rainbird valves.. you can shut off the valves completely and disable the electrical controls of the valve... make sure that you have not closed the valve off manually preventing the electrical side... a problem with rainbird controls. This does not have anything to do with residual water in the lines... I would test this side first before you get into the electrical side... could save you a lot of time.

Q: I had to replace the seat washers/stems etc in order for the constant drips from the kitchen faucet to stop. It did; but when i went under the sink to turn the water valves back on, the hot water valve felt as something inside it went smooth??? i can turn the hot water valve left and right but nothing is happening. No hot water at all from the kitchen faucet..Also there's low water pressure from the cold water that only came about when I tried to turn the hot water back on from the valve underneath the sink: Unfortunately most valves used today are made of plastic that only look like metal on the outside. Sounds to me like you and I live in the same house. I have to replace four different shut off valves because they are stripped. I am working on the kitchen one right now. Stripped Valve with no cold water and very little pressure in the other valve. If you ever have one replaced by a plumber, insist on all metal valves. I will physically inspect them from now on before they replace them. Once stripped nothing you can do but put a new one on.

Q: Does anybody know what the valve lash specs are on a 1986 chevy sprint 1.0L carbureted?: 1986 Chevy Sprint

Q: I've been working on cars since around march of 2012. I new. I have a set of 305 heads that were really dirty. It came from a 79 camaro that never had an Oil change. I took the valves out and the valves are pretty burnt. I was wondering If I cleaned them up would they still be good to use? The edges aren't rough or anything. Just let me know what is need to know please. The heads I know are still good.: Not really. If you got the head off, you should replace them.

Q: I'm thinking about getting a Cold air intake along with a Bypass Valve to prevent Water Indigestion on my Toyota Corolla 07. I was wondering if Bypass Valves actually work and can someone explain to me the physics around it???( How bypass valves work): Air Intake Valve

Q: i am hearing tapping on top under of vale cover sound like valve need adjusting: time to change oil, use thicker oil or yep, adjust valves. not a monstrous project but time consuming. Need torque wrench, valve cover gasket and shim kit to adjust. It's a pain as u have two nuts on each valve adjustment rocker bolt. tightening causes the lower one to drop sometimes so u may find yourself adjusting the valves 2-3 times each. I did it on my old Acura with 78K miles. ran smoother. i dropped in a pulley kit and cold intake as well but afterwards. the head was real clean as I change oil regularly. I had tapping even after changing the knock valve so I knew the valve job was needed.

Q: One of my valves leaks a small amount of water through the valve and into the water line. why would it leak and what do i have to do to fix it. the valve is a rain jet valve. i would like to fix it without having to remove it from the valve box. inside the valve box there are 8 valves and they are glued in and i dont want to have to remove all of the valves and box.: Sounds okorder ), and so sometimes its almost easier to replace the whole thing. The rain jet valves definitely aren't the best quality either, so if I were you I'd get a better one just to make sure it is going to work for a long time.

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