wafe type butterfly valve

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Specifications

Double flanged Double Eccentric Butterfly Valve
PN10/16/25
DN100 ~ DN2000

Technical Specifications

- Design and manufacture: EN593, EN1074-1 and 2

- Face to face dimension: EN558-1 Series 14 (DIN3202 F4)

EN558-1 Series 13 (BS5163)

- Flange dimensions and drillling: EN1092-2 PN10/16/25

- Size range: DN100 - DN2000

- Max. working pressure: 1.0/1.6/2.5 MPa

- Inspection test: EN12266

- Working temperature: -15°C to +80°C

- Suitable medium: water

Main Fetures

- Double eccentric disc reduces seal wear and torque

- Body seat ring is welded directly on the body

- Bi-directional flow and low head loss

- Disc sealing ring to be replaceable on pipeline without dismantling the valve

- Body and disc inside and outside epoxy powder coated (min. 250 microns)

- Opening and closing indicators are provided

- Coupling flange for electric actuator in compliance with ISO5211

- Gearbox and electric actuator operation available

Main Parts and Materials

Body and disc: ductile iron EN GJS500-7/400-15

Shafts: stainless steel AISI 420

Body seat ring: stainless steel AISI 304

Disc sealing ring: EPDM or NBR

Retaining ring: stainless steel or ductile iron

Shaft bearing: Du bushes (self lubricating bushes)

Q:I heard alot about blow off valves making your engine run rich, but I want to get a blow off valve or bypass valve when I get a wrx. (I know some people think they're gay) but i dont care how loud it is, just want that sound. so what's the difference? I've been looking at this one:: A blow off valve releases the air into the atmosphere which gives you the noise their known for. A bypass valve releases the air back into the intake, like a stock BOV on most turbo cars including the WRX they are also known as recirculating BOV's, and do not produce the sound that a atmospheric BOV will make. A recirculating BOV will not cause you to run rich, and thats why a lot of people recommend them unless you are running a bigger turbo/ lots of boost. However they do not always make you run rich, and i would suggest that if you do get an BOV to just install it and not mess with it. If you mess around with the spring on them it can cause compressor surge which you do not want. However, I have used the hks ssqv with none of these problems.

Q:The water shut off valve that is under my sink in the bathroom is leaking and I need to replace it. I am wondering if I need soder the new one or can I just put some thread tape around it.: More ofter than not the innards of a valve will deteriorate and start to leak, when that happens its best to replace the valve. Since you ask about soldering the shut off valve, I'm going to assume that you have a copper line coming out of the wall. Older valves required soldering, nowadays there is a compression fitting that eliminates the need for soldering. Once you have the correct size of the pipe turn off the main water supply. Remove the old valve (may need to take a hacksaw or tubing cutter, if its soldered on). Then slip the new nut and compression ring over the pipe. Next bring the valve up to the pipe and tighten the nut to the valve. Once the valve is secured on attach your lines, preferably new replaced lines. Open the valve line, and then turn on the main water line and check for leaks.

Q:We have an ejector in the basement for an in-law apartment. When the check valve kicks in, it can wake us up from a sound sleep. A very loud thunking. Any ideas?: the check valve would be installed just outside of the crock vertically. The noise I doubt is from the check valve itself. I'd guess it is the pump shutting off and the pipe isn't fastened securely, so it bangs. Check to make sure that the run of pipe leaving the crock is fastened securely. if this is the case the only other option I oculd think of would be to re-position the check valve on a horizontal run of pipe as close to the crock as possible. Most check valves I have seen for ejectors are compression type, it will be messy but not to complicated. Keep a bucket handy, when you crack open that check valve you may need it. Flush the toilet until the pump kicks on a few times, this should clear out most of the nasty stuff. You may also need a short piece of 2 pipe and some couplings to make up for the space of the check valve. If you can hear the water flowing out when the pump kicks on and don't hear it draining back into the crock when it shuts off, the check valve is probably still good.

Q:I noticed when I pulled my pcv valve off the valve cover the entire guts were missing. what would this make the car run like?: Will run at higher idle and suck all the oil out of engine, then run bad until engine locks up and exhaust would be smoking like crazy. plus other things. Suggest you replace and check oil level.

Q:So i was driving down the highway and my car just turned off. I turned the key but nothing. My lights were on and everything. I took it to a repair guy and he told me that the timing belt was broken, so i paid to have it fixed. Then he told me something about a compressioner or something, i paid for that, then he told me the valve was bent, so i was pissed and said i wouldn't pay. He was going to charge me about 550. I had already paid him about 250. and i think he was scamming me was I wrong? Does that sound right? Also how would I go about fixing?: Brakes are a device used to give up action, typically by friction. So i anticipate you're asking if the timing belt breaks... and the answer is definite, with a providing thrown in for sturdy degree. In some engines, there is room adequate to the piston to be on the very properly and the valves to be open, if others (regularly happening as 0 clearance engines) even as the piston is on the properly, the valves had perfect to closed because there is 0 room in the different case. they could bend, yet what typically occurs is the piston will hit the open valve and get a hollow in it. both way, bend or ruin, you're searching at a really expensive restore, it really is why they propose the timing belt get replaced after a particular kind of miles.

Q:Okay, so when I was little, I had heart surgeyue to a congentital heart defect and I now have a leeky valve, on my aortic valve and i was wondering if it didnt go away would I need to get heart surgery? Or would it need to get bigger?Will it only get bigger or will it alwayse same? If I need heart surgery how long would that be??? have had it since 3rd or 4th grade and I am now in 8th grade. I am just wondering...: Valvar insufficiency/regurgitation that is a result of surgical repair of a congenital defect does not self-resolve. It's not clear what your initial diagnosis was, however I would guess that you were born with aortic stenosis. Balloon enlargement and/or surgery to repair a stenotic valve almost always results in some degree of insufficiency/regurgitation. A small amount of insufficiency/regurgitation is much better tolerated than stenosis. It is a tradeoff we accept for improved patient outcomes. Really, the answer to your question is dependent on a multitude of factors, the most important of which is the degree of insufficiency/regurgitation you have (i.e. trivial, mild, moderate, or severe). This is really a great question and you deserve a full explanation. However, I cannot give you a factual answer without more information. You may also have a bicuspid aortic valve, which opens up a whole other set of variables. One thing I am sure of, however, is that you will require the care of a cardiologist for the rest of your life. It's possible that later on you may only have to follow-up ever 1-3 years, however, it will forever be necessary to properly monitor your valve and its effect on your heart, not to mention any associated problems you may not be aware of that become a risk with age. Good luck.

Q:I'm installing a shut off valve under my sink. can you tell me all the materials that i need to install it by myself because to hire some body else is very expensive where i live. i need to change the old ones because they are leaking very bad when i want to use the sink.thanks a lot: It might just be the rubber gasket inside the valve You'll need: Screw driver to take off screw for handle, Adjustable wrench(Crescent, spanner etc.) a faucet repair kit which has various sizes of seats Turn Off Water!!!!!!!! Open lowest sink or faucet outside or inside let drain off pressure. have a pan or something to catch the drips. with the screw driver unscrew handle and take off for minute, unscrew top (sometimes you can stop a drip by tightening this top to push on the packing depending on where it is leaking) of valve with adjustable wrench and take off there will be a packing material around shaft of valve (black, graphite grey) refasten valve handle and open valve all the way (counter clockwise) It should come out after unthreading. On the bottom of valve stem should be a screw holding the rubber valve seat try to unscrew the screw holding the rubber seat if it breaks you take to hardware store and find a replacement take top with you ask for help. Re-install the opposite way Make sure when re-installing to put the packing around stem three or four turns enough for the top to compress it and able to screw back on the valve if you over tighten you won't be able to turn valve back off until you can.

Q:Hi! I have three brass gate valves surrounding a filter for my well. They are starting to show some signs of leaking. I realize that I might need to replace them... or, there seems to be a couple of places where they could be adjusted. Is this something I should do? Or, if I need to replace them, can you help me put a name to this type of valve so I can have an easier time tracking them down ?: if its the nut with the green residue on it just give it a little tighten if they still leek you can undue the nut an wrap ptf tape (plumbers tape) round the into the space left and screw it back in make sure the bigger nut going into the body of the valve does not come loose ( roll the tape in your hand so it more rope like wrap it around or even just poke it with a small screwdriver then tighten up ) O and think it is a male to male gate valve

Q:where is the fuel tank selector valve located on the truck?: Located under the LH center of vehicle, on LH frame rail

Q:If I buy one of those Presta valve adapters can I just screw it on and leave it on while I ride? Will I lose air pressure at to fast of a rate?: Yes, just leave it on the valve while you ride. I tuck mine in my seat pack, but there's no reason you can't put it on the valve. The presta valve should be screwed shut like normal, then just put the adapter on over it. One of the best little gadgets to have if you ride in the country. Lots of people have portable or shop air compressors, but only *real* cyclists will have a pump or air chuck to fit a presta valve. If you inflate your tube with CO2, be sure to let it thaw out before you unscrew the adapter to close the presta valve. It's easy to lose air or tear the rubber at the base of the valve if you don't. I rode with a guy that used to just tuck his adapter and a patch kit in the leg of his shorts because he wanted to travel ultralight. I guess you could do that, too, but I'd worry about driving them into your flesh if you happen to crash and land on them.

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