• Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double PN 2.5 Mpa System 1
  • Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double PN 2.5 Mpa System 2
  • Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double PN 2.5 Mpa System 3
Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double PN 2.5 Mpa

Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double PN 2.5 Mpa

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 pc
Supply Capability:
100 pc/month

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Products Description of Swing Check Valve

Check valves are used in pipes under pressures between PN1.6~16.0MPa(Class150~2500Lb), working temperatures-196~600, They are used in industries include oil, chemistry, pharmaceutical, fertilizer, and power gene-ration to prevent the backward flux of the media.

The main structure features of Swing Check Valve:

1The products feature a reasonable structure, reliable seal, good performance and nice modeling.
2
Either soft or hard seal can be selected for the product upon different working conditions.The sealing face is built up with Co-based 
carbide alloy, leaving a better wearability, corrosion and scrap resistance and a longer duration.
3
Small opening pressure, the disc can be opened fully with a very small pressure differential.
4
Inside-set bolt-bearing structure reduces leakage and reliable use.
5
PN≥16.0Mpa (class1500), the middle cavity uses a self-tightening sealing structure to have the sealing performance reinforced along 
with the pressure rise so as to ensure the sealing performance.
6
Different parts materials and different sizes for flange, butt-welding are available for sensible combination according to different working facts and customers' requirements.

Parameter of Swing Check Valve:

Standard Criteria

 GB customize 

Pressure Rating

 1 Mpa  1.6 Mpa  2.5   Mpa  4 Mpa  6.4 Mpa  10 Mpa  16   Mpa customize 

Valve Size

 50 mm  65 mm  80   mm  100 mm  125 mm  150 mm  200   mm  250 mm 300 mm  350 mm  400   mm  450 mm  500 mm  600 mm customi

Actuator

 Automatic customize 

Connection

 Wafer customize 

Medium

 Oil  Steam  Water customize   

Medium Temperature

 -196~600 customize   

Structural style

 Swing double-clack   structure customize 

Application Fields

 Agriculture  Electricity  Medical  Petrochemical customize   

1-Body Material

 CF3  CF8C  CF8  WCB  CF8M  CF3M customize   

2-Disc

 CF3  CF3M  WCB  CF8  CF8M  CF8C customize   

3-Pivot

 1Cr13  1Cr18Ni9Ti  0Cr18Ni12Mo2Ti  2Cr13 customize   

4-Spring

 60Si2Mn  1Cr18Ni9Ti  4Cr13  0Cr18Ni12Mo2Ti customize   

Design Standard

 GB/T 12224 customize 

Connection Standard

 GB/T 9113  HG   20592  JB/T 79 customize 

Test Standard

 JB/T 9092-1999 customize 

Face to Face

 GB/T 15188.2-1994 customize 

Images of Swing Check Valve:

Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double PN 2.5 Mpa

Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double PN 2.5 Mpa

Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double PN 2.5 Mpa

FAQ of Swing Check Valve:

Q1:I can’t find the type of steel check valve which I need. what can I do?

The chart above only lists out some common composition of steel check valve parts.We may provide other different parts material composition according to the customer's request or the actual valve working condition.


Q2:Which certification do your products pass?

  Our products are in accordance with ISO 9001ISO 14001API 6AAPI 6DTS CEAPI607/6FA/BS6755.


Q:In my condo, I have what appears to be a water relief valve of some sort right after my water inlet pipe. It's after the water cutoff valve. It's not the water heater relief valve. It has a leak, not bad, just a drip right now. It looks like a half baseball sticking out of the main inlet pipe with a bolt in the center of it. I've tried to tighten it but that makes the leak worse. First, what is this. Second, Is there an obvious fix to this. Third, if I have to get it replaced, what model/manufacturer can I get so that this doesn't happen for a long while. My plumbing is short of fifteen years old.
Sounds like a pressure regulator, cause, relief valves don't have a bolt, they have a lever. If, it is the regulator, and its leaking, it needs to be replaced. Good luck with that.
Q:I need an angle valve for my sink buts its a bit of an odd size. I have copper tubing at 1/2 i need a valve preferably compression that can feed to a water supply that is 1/2 Pipe thread.Included images of the supply hose valve to sink. To help show what i'm looking for.
If you're looking for a valve that attaches to a 1/2 iron pipe coming out of the wall, and then will feed to 1/2 copper tubing, then you're looking for- an angle stop, 1/2 female iron pipe to 1/2 compression. Just about any good hardware store will have it in stock or be able to order it, just be sure that they know what you need. I've often found that using visual aids,like a piece of pipe in one hand, and a piece of tubing in the other, with an empty space, waiting for a valve, between them, can be an invaluable aid to communication. Don't even try to cut and adapt a braided hose. The stainless braid contains a (relatively thin) rubber hose. Without the braid to reinforce it, it will burst. If you need to adapt plumbing, there is always a way to get water from point A to point B. The challenge is finding the most elegant route.
Q:Glob Valve or Gate Valve
Gate valve is commonly used.
Q:.The valve behind the toilet is spewing water (we have connected a hose to it and have it emptying into the tub). When we try to shut the water off from that valve, the knob or turny-thingy (the name escapes me right now) just turns and turns correcting the water flow slightly, but not shutting it off.The problem it that we can't find the main water valve outside the house. What am I looking for please?!? Also, we shut a valve off in the garage, but it was for the hot water.Help!
if you carnt find the stop cock most likey to be under the kitchen sink or on the front of the property boundary then you will need to call a plumber
Q:what is engine valve timining ?
The valve's are in the head or head's and they need to be lined up with your crankshaft in order for the engine to be in time , if they was'nt in time with the crank they would hit at the wrong time and your engine would be junk.
Q:The water in my tub/shower stopped working. I did my research on the net to discover the cause and I also went to Home Depot explained the problem. The worker at home depot helped me get the right part I needed to replace the valve stem. I came home, took the faucet handle off and can see what I need to do next. Everything seems perfect and ready to go, except I can't remove the old valve stem. It seems like the old one should just slide out and the new one replaces it. How do I get the old one out without damaging any of the pipes or hurting myself.
Check back on your website to see if they have the procedure for removing/installing the new stem. These usually have to be turned to allow them to be removed. You should be able to purchase a tool to help you release it. Also, be aware the old stem could be hard to remove due to build-up and/or torn seals. After you get it our, try to remve and deposits in the valve and then apply a little lubricant to the new stem before you insert it. Be sure the lubricant is compatable with the seals.
Q:the water coming out of the kitchen faucet has been getting weaker and weaker this week and now it flows a 3 out of 10. The thought it might be time to replace the faucet/faucet washer. I went to turn off the water under the sink.. hot and cold valve but water still comes out of the faucet with enough force aka not a dip but free flowing water. I turned the red handle valve to off as well but same thing. I am totally thrown off. HOt and cold water still comes out of faucet. When I push the faucet handle down, the water does not stop right away as well but slowly stops. No problem water into dish washer. I have replaced numerous faucets but I can not figure how water is still getting to the faucet after turning all 3 valves to shut off position. I still think it might be the faucet but now I am not sure. I am close to calling a plumber but really do not want to do that. thx
shut off you water main first so you can check on your kitchens isolation valves. unscrew your valve try to replace the wornout rubber gasket. unscrew your faucet and clean the faucet with brush and clean the strainer of your faucet. change the gasket or ceramic valve of your fauset replace them. i hope this will solve your problem.
Q:what to use to inflate self sealing tube with the presta valve?
You okorder /
Q:What is a valve adjustment? I wanted to do one on my 1994 Honda civic ex cuz my friends told me I should do one but I wanted to know howmuch will it cost? And what will it do to my car in performance and gas consumption? My car right now has 155k miles.
Don't bother if you really don't need it (or don't know what it does). As cars get old, parts wear out and need to be adjusted. The valves open and close to let fuel in and exhaust gas out. unless you are suffering from some problem you don't need it. ==== I have 1994 Civic EX also. The good news is that the valves are very easy to access so the labor is cheap (no new parts unless the valves are really worn. good Luck P.S. My 94 Civic still runs like new and get great MPG. So if you get good MPG and have decent power, you don't need valve adjustment.
Q:Hi. im wondering what reed valves do and can they put on a 4-stroke engine or not???Thanks for your help.Dune.buggy5
reed valves are in a 2 stroke cylinder head they are exactly like they sound like in a clarinet.. when the piston rises they are closed due to the position the port is in the cylinder . when the piston is down stroking it creates a vacuum hence the reed valve opens and the piston starts to rise closes the reed valve.. 4 cycle engines have mechanicaly activated valves from a timing chain and a camshaft which controls when the valve opens so the answer is NO NO NO

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