• API Cast Steel Check Valve  100 mm  in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 1
  • API Cast Steel Check Valve  100 mm  in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 2
  • API Cast Steel Check Valve  100 mm  in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 3
API Cast Steel Check Valve  100 mm  in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237

API Cast Steel Check Valve 100 mm in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 pc
Supply Capability:
100 pc/month

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The features of check valve

Bolted Bonnet;Swing and lift disc;Metallic seating surfaces.

Body and Bonnet Connection

The body and bonnet of Class150~Class900 check valves are usually with studs and nuts.And the body and bonnet of Class1500~Class2500 check valves are usually of pressurized seal design.                                                                                                         

Body-To-Bonnet Joint

Stainless steel + flesible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 150 and Class 300 check valve;Stainless steel + flexible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 600 check valve,and joint gasket is also optional for Class 600 check valve;Ring joint gasket is used for Class900 check valve;Pressurized seal design is used for Class 1500~Class 2500 check valves.

Seat

For carbon steel check valve,the seat is usually forged steel.The sealing surface of the seat is spray welded with hard alloy specified by the customer.Renewable threaded seat is used for NPS<10 check valves ,and welded on seat can be also optional if being requested by the customer.Welded on seat is used for NPS>12 crbon steel gate valves .Forstainless steel check valve,integral seat is usually adopted ,or to weld hard alloy directly integrally.Threaded or welded on seat is also optional for stainless steel check valve if being requested by the customer.


Standard   Criteria

 ASME/ANSI/API customize   

Pressure   Rating

 150   Class  300 Class  600 Class  900   Class  1500 Class  2500 Class customize 

Valve   Size

 50   mm  65 mm  80 mm  100 mm  125   mm  150 mm  200 mm  250 mm 300   mm  350 mm  400 mm  450 mm  500   mm  600 mm  650 mm  700 mm 750 mm




 2   inch  2.5 inch  3 inch  4 inch  5   inch  6 inch  8 inch  10 inch  12   inch 14 inch  16 inch  18 inch  20   inch  24 inch  26 inch  28 inch  30   inch customize 

Actuator

 Automatic customize 

Connection

 Butt Welding  Flange   RF  Flange RTJ customize 

1-Body Material

 A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M customize 

2-Seat ring

 A105+13Cr  A351-CF8M  A351-CF8  A105+Tool   Steel customize 

3-Disc

 13Cr+A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M  Tool Steel+A216   WCB customize 

4-Arm

 A351-CF8M  A216   WCB  A351-CF8 customize 

5-Nut

 A194-8  A194   2H  A194 8M customize 

6-Arm pin

 A182-F316  A182-F6a  A182-F304 customize   

7-Yoke

 A351-CF8M  A216   WCB  A351-CF8 customize 

8-Bonnet nut

 A194 2H  A194   8M  A194-8 customize 

9-Bonnet bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B8M  A193-B7 customize   

10-Bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B7  A193-B8M customize   

11-Gasket

 graphite+304  316+graphite customize   

12-Bonnet

 A351-CF8  A216   WCB  A351-CF8M customize 

13-Eye bolt

 A181 customize 

Design Standard

 API 6D  BS   1868 customize 

Connection Standard

 API 605  ASME B   16.25-2007  ASME B 16.47A  ASME B 16.47B  ASME   B 16.5  MSS SP-44 customize 

Test Standard

 API 598  API   6D customize 

Face to Face

 ASME B 16.10 customize 

Pressure-temperature ratings

 ASME B   16.34-2004 customize 

Wall thickness dimension

 API 600  BS   1868 customize 


Q: Is there any treatment available for a leaky heart valve?
i dont know, but i have one to. once a doctor told me if it gets real bad they could fix it with laser. i was on medication but quit taking it , it made my heart rate too slow. i got mitral vale prolasp. i dont know if i spelled that rite.if you have a heart doc. i would ask him to ease your fear. good luck.
Q: The water shutoff valvue has a slow leak where the hose connects. Its right were the hose to the tank connects to the shutoff valve.....I also noticed when I close the shut off valve it doesnt stop the water completely. Does the whole setup need to be replaced, and if so, is it difficult? Or will just replacing the hose correct the leak?I figured the constant running wasnt a huge deal if there was no leak because you leave the water on anyways, so there is always constant water pressure there.
I'M plumber : sound like just need to replace the gasket in both ends of the hoses,some times this get worn or not tide enough
Q: The valve on my mountain bike tire has a leak, so I want to go buy a new valve (and maybe a couple spares)... how much is the average cost?Thanks!
Pump the tire up to max and then release the air that may clear any dirt out. If it's leaking around the base it needs patched or replaced.
Q: It's just a small 1 cylinder 1000 watt generator but thanks to contributors here, I verified the exhaust valve is pitted after I cleaned it all up with oven cleaner a toothbrush. My question is can I just replace the valve itself or do I need an entire new head? The seats still feel smooth.
There is no need to replace head if the seat is good. Blue smoke indicates to rich a fuel mixture,white indicates oil consumption.
Q: One of the zone control valves in my heating system does not appear to be working. The thermostat is calling for heat, but no water is flowing. If the other thermostats call for heat, the valves seem to open as the pipes above the valve get hot from the water flowing through. The one that appears busted gets luke warm at best. All 4 valves in the system are fed from the same pipe, and the failed valve is the third in the series of 4 along the pipe (and #4 flows fine) so it doesn't appear to be something in the feeder pipe.Is there anything I can do to try and fix the existing valve, can I replace the valve myself? Would replacing the valve top of the valve (the green/gold portion) possible fix the issue (maybe a problem with the operation of the piston? Is there anything I ahve to do before removing the valve top aside from removing power to the valve?
The first thing is to see if the zone valve is getting voltage from the thermostat telling it to open. Most are low voltage a/c current. If it is getting power and not opening you probably should change out the entire valve. Some have compression fittings and some have a solder connection. If it is a solder connection make sure the valve is open before you sweat it . You will have to turn off the water supply to the valve and the power and bleed off the pressure. Make sure the solenoid matches the existing voltage. Have fun.
Q: I mean dropping the valve seat. And some mechanic told me that it dropped when the catalytic converter got clogged and it hurt the engine. But the most I've heard is that if I want to avoid this from happening I should be running the engine a bit colder because the valves weren't made with the right specs and after a 100,000 miles they become a bit loose and when the engine gets to the normal temperature or just a bit above, the valve seats would drop. Does ANYONE KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT THIS?
Those old escorts ran forever. I don't fully understand your question. Are you having any problems with the engine now? If the engine is running like it always has, I think you are worrying about a stray comment from a mechanic. If one of the valves seats moves out of position, you will know. The engine will start making ticking sounds and you may lose power. If none of that is happening, you are worried about nothing. If you are having some of those issues, then take the car to a competent mechanic have the problem diagnosed and get the head rebuilt. It's not that expensive on that engine. Then you will have new valves, new seats, new guides and a very clean head.
Q: do I need a new water heater or can this ne be fixed?
you said you tripped the valve-meaning opened it up then closed. try taking i small hammer and tapping onit on the sides. sometimes you will get minerals or a little dirt stuck up in there. if it doesnt stop dripping after that then just replace it. go to your local hardware store and ask for a pt valve for a hot water tank. make sure you specify for a hot water heater as the valve for a boiler is a different pressure. shoulr run you about 15-20 bucks. turn your water supply incoming off. drain the water from your old valve till water stops becuase now your below that part. unscrew the old vave out. apply pipe dope to the threads of the new one and screw it in. using a pipe wrench tighten it in. now turn on your fill and bleed air from your faucet. you should be all set
Q: Where is the fast idle valve located on the dx or ex model year 89-91??? I found the fast idle on my si model but its different on the base model for some reason.
base models have no fast idle valve. if the rpm are going up and down inspect the water level in the system and have it bled. there might be air in it. if you are messing with the timing or adjusting the idle you are doing something wrong. do not adjust the throttle cable to adjust the idle. it will throw off the tps sensor. use the idle screw. if adjusting idle at the idle screw or timing don't forget to jump the ECU or you will waste your time. btw you know that the IACV needs to be unplugged when adjusting the idle right? no punn intended just checking.
Q: recently changed head gasket. could valves tap from the push rods being mixed up? they all seemed to be the same size and i know the other side was exactly the same when put back together but this side is mixed up. could this make the valves go crazy? and i need to replace my water pump because its getting very hot and no coolant moving. and everything is smokin up, took off oil cap and it was steaming. would that have anything to do with making the valves tap?
there okorder a good site that will help you fix your car and its free and you can ask master tech for help.
Q: .The valve behind the toilet is spewing water (we have connected a hose to it and have it emptying into the tub). When we try to shut the water off from that valve, the knob or turny-thingy (the name escapes me right now) just turns and turns correcting the water flow slightly, but not shutting it off.The problem it that we can't find the main water valve outside the house. What am I looking for please?!? Also, we shut a valve off in the garage, but it was for the hot water.Help!
find the house water meter located a the edge of the street in your yard and turn the main valve off

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