API Cast Steel Check Valve 750 mm in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10 pc
- Supply Capability:
- 100 pc/month
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The features of check valve
Bolted Bonnet;Swing and lift disc;Metallic seating surfaces.
Body and Bonnet Connection
The body and bonnet of Class150~Class900 check valves are usually with studs and nuts.And the body and bonnet of Class1500~Class2500 check valves are usually of pressurized seal design.
Body-To-Bonnet Joint
Stainless steel + flesible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 150 and Class 300 check valve;Stainless steel + flexible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 600 check valve,and joint gasket is also optional for Class 600 check valve;Ring joint gasket is used for Class900 check valve;Pressurized seal design is used for Class 1500~Class 2500 check valves.
Seat
For carbon steel check valve,the seat is usually forged steel.The sealing surface of the seat is spray welded with hard alloy specified by the customer.Renewable threaded seat is used for NPS<10 check valves ,and welded on seat can be also optional if being requested by the customer.Welded on seat is used for NPS>12 crbon steel gate valves .Forstainless steel check valve,integral seat is usually adopted ,or to weld hard alloy directly integrally.Threaded or welded on seat is also optional for stainless steel check valve if being requested by the customer.
Standard Criteria | ASME/ANSI/API customize |
Pressure Rating | 150 Class 300 Class 600 Class 900 Class 1500 Class 2500 Class customize |
Valve Size | 50 mm 65 mm 80 mm 100 mm 125 mm 150 mm 200 mm 250 mm 300 mm 350 mm 400 mm 450 mm 500 mm 600 mm 650 mm 700 mm 750 mm |
2 inch 2.5 inch 3 inch 4 inch 5 inch 6 inch 8 inch 10 inch 12 inch 14 inch 16 inch 18 inch 20 inch 24 inch 26 inch 28 inch 30 inch customize | |
Actuator | Automatic customize |
Connection | Butt Welding Flange RF Flange RTJ customize |
1-Body Material | A216 WCB A351-CF8 A351-CF8M customize |
2-Seat ring | A105+13Cr A351-CF8M A351-CF8 A105+Tool Steel customize |
3-Disc | 13Cr+A216 WCB A351-CF8 A351-CF8M Tool Steel+A216 WCB customize |
4-Arm | A351-CF8M A216 WCB A351-CF8 customize |
5-Nut | A194-8 A194 2H A194 8M customize |
6-Arm pin | A182-F316 A182-F6a A182-F304 customize |
7-Yoke | A351-CF8M A216 WCB A351-CF8 customize |
8-Bonnet nut | A194 2H A194 8M A194-8 customize |
9-Bonnet bolt | A193-B8 A193-B8M A193-B7 customize |
10-Bolt | A193-B8 A193-B7 A193-B8M customize |
11-Gasket | graphite+304 316+graphite customize |
12-Bonnet | A351-CF8 A216 WCB A351-CF8M customize |
13-Eye bolt | A181 customize |
Design Standard | API 6D BS 1868 customize |
Connection Standard | API 605 ASME B 16.25-2007 ASME B 16.47A ASME B 16.47B ASME B 16.5 MSS SP-44 customize |
Test Standard | API 598 API 6D customize |
Face to Face | ASME B 16.10 customize |
Pressure-temperature ratings | ASME B 16.34-2004 customize |
Wall thickness dimension | API 600 BS 1868 customize |
- Q: I have a 87 cbr600, consumes oil at a considerable rate. Took the engine out of the frame and disassembled cylinder head, block and pistons and found there is a thick layer of cooked-on oil over all sixteen valves. I figured the oil consumption was due to bad rings, but could it have been the valves?
- I'm guessing the motor was running some blue smoke out the exhaust especially at start up. And I'm guessing it was probably a combination of rings and valves. She's twenty years old. Worn rings allow oil to escape into the combustion chamber from the underside of the piston and worn valve guides/seals allow oil to be burnt away from the top. When the guides/seals become worn or dry from age they allow the oil to leak down the valve stem. That's why you will notice them being worn especially at start up. While the bike sits it gives the oil a chance to pool at the edge of the valve to head surface so when the valve is first opened a accumulated amount of oil to enter the cumbustion chamber.
- Q: I need to know how to use a valve spring compressor, the type that looks like a c-clamp. I understand the fork side goes on top of the spring and the circular side goes on the valve to push and hold. There are also two little scoop things in the middle of the fork that i don't know what they are used for. If i can get a step by step instruction, you will get the best answer
- the scoop thing goes on the retainer or (the part that holds the spring in place) first there should be an adjustment on top of the tool where the fork is...put the compressor on the retainer..and adjust the screws until it fits tight on the retainer....then will have to adjust the bottom of the compressor where the handle is so that when you close the handle it pushes down the spring far enough to get the two keepers (two little half moon clips that hold the valve into the retainer....but first before you do anything...u must wear safety glasses if a keeper shoots out of there it may hit u in the face......after you put your glasses on and before you use the compressor take a hammer and hit the top of the retainer that u want to remove...DO NOT HIT THE TOP OF THE VALVE...it will damage the valve and you may end up needing a new one...hitting the retainer loosens the keepers so it will be easy to remove them....when you collapse the handle you can see the keepers in the retainer ..it may be help full to pull them out with a magnet..then slowly release the compassion with the handle and your done....this is hard to do at first and will require some practice to get good at it...be careful u can get hurt using this tool...i have been doing this for 30+ years so i have first hand exp. on both areas good luck
- Q: I have a 2004 rmz 250 i was wondering if i could get some specific details on how to adjust and the spec's for the intake valves... thanks
- Buy a manual for your bike. The question is far too broad to be answered here due to the complex nature of a modern valve train, like found on your RMZ. It involves removing the intake and exhaust camshafts to gain access to the shims underneath the buckets on top of the valves. You must know where to time the cams again in relation to the crank otherwise, it is very possible to destroy your engine if not installed properly...Hence the advice on obtaining a quality service manual beforehand... It's also why the shops charge a seemingly extortionate amount.
- Q: So i finaly got my check valve and my airstone. The airstone is actually a flat round airstone and is 5 inches in diameter to be in my 10gallon. Is it to big? though i have a tetra whisper air pump for 10-30g.And how do i place the check valve? Do i put it closer to the tank or closer to the pump? (just to make sure since i heard so many different ways people put it). Or does it even matter?And lastly, do i put the OUT side of the check valve facing towards the tank or the pump?Thanks! after this im ready to install it!
- The airstone is not too big, unless it causes the water to bubble right out of the tank. Then you will need a valve to divert the excess air to an unused air line. If the airline is already cut, just put the check valve wherever the airline ends. If it's not cut you can put it anywhere. The arrow on the check valve should point toward the aquarium. If it says IN and OUT, then the OUT is on the aquarium side. If you want to test it to be sure, blow in one end of the valve. You can't blow air into the side that connects to the aquarium. Be sure there is a drip loop in the air pump electrical cord. If water were to somehow get in the air pump or drip on it, water might follow down the outside of the electrical cord and go into the the wall outlet. To make sure that doesn't happen be sure the cord is looped down lower than the outlet and then loops back up before it's plugged in. Get a second airstone any time in the next few weeks. About once a month, trade airstones, putting the recently used one into a jar with white vinegar. A week or so of soaking will unclog the airstone so that it can be used again several times before needing to be discarded. If you do have excess air, I find that running a piece of airline tubing to a spot away from sight and putting a short piece of pipe cleaner in the far end will muffle the hissing sound of the excess air.
- Q: i have a 1990 gmc sierra k1500, 4.3 v6. it has leaking valve seals its only smokes wen i first start it. so im not in to much of a hurry to replace them. wen i do replace them will i have to reset the timing and the valve gap? and could leaking valve seals cause loss of power or performance problems
- sounds like valve seals ! no you don,t have to bother the timing ! all you do is remove the plugs, hook up a air compressor and screw 1 end of the hose into the plug hole, take off the valve pan, loosen the rocker and start the compressor up ! once the compressor reaches about 40 to 50 pounds then take out the keeper on the valve stem and replace it with a new seal, if you can get the umbrella type seals, after the seal is replaced put the rocker back on, turn the crank by hand until the rocker is on the low cam and torque the rocker nut ! then you do the same way to the rest of the valve seals !
- Q: I have a 2001 Ford Ranger with a 4.0 V6. I recently broke the valve cover bolt on the top right hand corner of the passenger valve cover ( the bolt closest to the belt). 1. Can I drive it like this and since 7 of the 8 bolts are in it should it leak worse. 2. How do I fix it, and 3. How much would this cost to have fixed if I took it somewhere. Thanks for your help
- I've seen enough heads blocks and other equipment ruined to say take it to a machine shop. The bolt can be drilled out and removed then the threads cleaned up with a tap. However trying to do it with hand tools will, 99% of the time, end up a disaster. You need the proper tools to make sure that drill bit is centered and runs straight and you only get one chance. Sometimes it won't leak with an upper bolt missing, especially if the bolt is in the middle. But if it's a lower bolt or a top one near the end, it's a pretty good bet to leak.
- Q: i know its going to drop some oil, im just wondering to what extent? how much oil is going to spill out?
- If your asking if the Valve cover will be full of oil..... No it runs back into the oil pan. There will be oil residue inside and it might drip a tiny bit when you remove the cover but.....
- Q: I am having a leaky valve is that normal? the doctor said that it is normal what do i do?
- Like most everything, there are degrees of valvular leakage. A valve can be leaking a lot or a very little amount. Valves are a biologic mechanism and therefore are not precisely manufactured with some areas that don't ideally fit, leading to minor leakage. If you were to take 100 random people off of the street and do an echocardiogram, the vast majority would have one valve or the other that had at least some trivial leakage. Therefore if the majority of people have the same thing and it is not a pathological process, it is essentially normal. Next, certain valves leaking are much more important that other valves. Moderate leakage of the tricuspid valve for instance is not a particularly important finding. But moderate leakage of the aortic valve is a very big deal that requires close medical attention. In sum, valves with trivial leakage do not require serial exams for follow up or any special measures like antibiotics before dental procedures. Since this is such a common finding, it is reasonable to consider this a normal finding. Not knowing precisely what the result was on your echo, I can not specifically advise you. At your next doctor's appointment make a note for yourself to ask him/her for clarification. Good luck.
- Q: A friend of mine is having open-heart surgery next week to replace a heart valve. He needs to decide whether he wants a mechanical valve or a biological one. He is 28 years old. Which would you choose and why?
- The answer depends on many things. Which valve? Why is it being replaced? Overall, mechanical valves last longer, typically 20-30 years. The tissue valves tend to last 15-20. There are risks and benefits to each, such as closure efficiency, infection rates, and other types of failure etc. If it were me, I'd go with a mechanical valve. However, he really, really needs to talk seriously with his doc before deciding. The doc will give answers in context to his unique situation. That is something we cannot do on this site, simply because we do not know him or his medical history. Best of luck.
- Q: I have a road bike that has schrader valve tubes and my current tire is rated to 90 psi max. I ordered some new tires that are 100 to 120 psi max. Will the schrader valve tube hold that kind of psi? I dont really want to buy converters and new tubes right now.
- The valve will hold the pressure, the rest of the tube is the same as a presta valve tube. The tube does not contain the pressure anyway, it is the strength of the tire casing that allows higher pressure. Pressure ratings are more related to tire width than tire construction. If your new tires are narrower, that is the reason why they are rated for higher pressure. If you see a tire model available in various widths, the wider ones usually recommend lower pressure. This is not because the tire casing is any weaker, it is because a wider tire doesn't need as much pressure to hold you up due to the larger internal volume
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API Cast Steel Check Valve 750 mm in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10 pc
- Supply Capability:
- 100 pc/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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