• API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 650 mm System 1
  • API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 650 mm System 2
  • API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 650 mm System 3
API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 650 mm

API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 650 mm

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 pc
Supply Capability:
100 pc/month

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API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve 150 Class

The features of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve

Bolted Bonnet;Swing and lift disc;Metallic seating surfaces.

Body and Bonnet Connection of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:

The body and bonnet of Class150~Class900 check valves are usually with studs and nuts.And the body and bonnet of Class1500~Class2500 check valves are usually of pressurized seal design.

Body-To-Bonnet Joint of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:                                                                                                         

Stainless steel + flesible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 150 and Class 300 check valve;Stainless steel + flexible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 600 check valve,and joint gasket is also optional for Class 600 check valve;Ring joint gasket is used for Class900 check valve;Pressurized seal design is used for Class 1500~Class 2500 check valves.

Seat of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:

For carbon steel check valve,the seat is usually forged steel.The sealing surface of the seat is spray welded with hard alloy specified by the customer.Renewable threaded seat is used for NPS<10 check="" valves="" and="" welded="" on="" seat="" can="" be="" also="" optional="" if="" being="" requested="" by="" the="" customer.welded="" is="" used="" for="" nps="">12 crbon steel gate valves .Forstainless steel check valve,integral seat is usually adopted ,or to weld hard alloy directly integrally.Threaded or welded on seat is also optional for stainless steel check valve if being requested by the customer.

Parameter of Cast Steel Check Valve:

Standard Criteria

 ASME/ANSI/API customize 

Pressure Rating

 150 Class  300   Class  600 Class  900 Class  1500   Class  2500 Class customize 

Valve Size

 50 mm  65   mm  80 mm  100 mm  125 mm  150   mm  200 mm  250 mm 300 mm  350   mm  400 mm  450 mm  500 mm  600   mm  650 mm  700 mm 750 mm

 2 inch  2.5   inch  3 inch  4 inch  5 inch  6   inch  8 inch  10 inch  12 inch 14   inch  16 inch  18 inch  20 inch  24   inch  26 inch  28 inch  30   inch customize 

Actuator

 Automatic customize 

Connection

 Butt Welding  Flange   RF  Flange RTJ customize 

1-Body Material

 A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M customize 

2-Seat ring

 A351-CF8  A351-CF8M  A105+13Cr  Tool   Steel+A105 customize 

3-Disc

 Tool Steel+A216 WCB  A351-CF8M  A351-CF8  A216   WCB+13Cr customize 

4-Arm

 A351-CF8  A216   WCB  A351-CF8M customize 

5-Nut

 A194   8M  A194-8  A194 2H customize 

6-Arm pin

 A182-F6a  A182-F316  A182-F304 customize   

7-Yoke

 A351-CF8  A351-CF8M  A216   WCB customize 

8-Bonnet nut

 A194   8M  A194-8  A194 2H customize 

9-Bonnet bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B8M  A193-B7 customize   

10-Bolt

 A193-B7  A193-B8  A193-B8M customize   

11-Gasket

 graphite+304  graphite+316 customize   

12-Bonnet

 A216   WCB  A351-CF8M  A351-CF8 customize 

13-Eye bolt

 A181 customize 

Design Standard

 API 6D  BS   1868 customize 

Connection Standard

 API 605  ASME B   16.25-2007  ASME B 16.47A  ASME B 16.47B  ASME   B 16.5  MSS SP-44 customize 

Test Standard

 API 598  API   6D customize 

Face to Face

 ASME B 16.10 customize   

Pressure-temperature ratings

 ASME B   16.34-2004 customize 

Wall thickness dimension

 API 600  BS 1868

 

FAQ of Cast Steel Check Valve:

Q1:I can’t find the type of steel check valve which I need. what can I do?

The chart above only lists out some common composition of steel check valve parts.We may provide other different parts material composition according to the customer's request or the actual valve working condition.

Q2:Which certification do your products pass?

  Our products are in accordance with ISO 9001ISO 14001API 6AAPI 6DTS CEAPI607/6FA/BS6755.


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Do you know for certain that it was, or are you just repeating unfounded rumors? What's your source for this information?
Q: I know what a blow off valve is but where does it blow out the air out off does the air blow out threw the exhaust or what?
Depends on the type of blow off valve. Some vent to atmosphere(just blow it out into open air) others recirculate(blow the air back into the intake farther upstream). Which one it does depends mainly on where the blow off valve is located in the system. If the car has a MAF(mass air flow) sensor and the blow off valve is located after that sensor then it has to be recirculated, because the sensor has already registered that air and if it vents to atmosphere then the engine will run rich because the ECM will be putting too much fuel into the engine.
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Sea Chest Valve
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I am assuming you want to replace the EGR valve because you are getting an insufficient EGR flow trouble code. Before you replace a perfectly good valve with an inferior aftermarket part that will likely fix nothing, a little more diagnosis is in order. If you have access to a scan tool and a vacuum gauge, perform a KOER (key on engine running) test on the engine with the vacuum gauge connected to the hose to the EGR valve. When self-test reaches the EGR test, look for the vacuum guage to move during the self test. If it moves, the vacuum source and EGR solenoid are good. If not, trace the vacuum harness for leaks. Without the scanner and vacuum gauge, find a length of hose and suck on the hose, or connect to other vacuum source to test the valve. You are looking for an RPM drop at idle when you open the valve in this way. I suspect your problem is a passageway clogged with carbon. Remove the valve and throttle body to access the clogged areas and manually decarbonize. This is the most common reason for an insufficient EGR flow on a Lincoln, along with a faulty DPFE sensor or related hoses. My money is on the clogged passages or the bad DPFE sensor.
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A okorder /... but this is like putting playing cards on bicyles!
Q: i have a zone that - when turnd on by timer or manually only about 1 foot of spray comes out of sprinkler heads (used to wk fine). When i turn the ittle screw on top of valve (its about the size of a dime) water pressure comes up and wks fine - only water leaks at screw and when zone comes on next time NO pressure??? metal valves were just replaces about 1 yr ago.
It's hard to say exactly what's wrong without knowing what type of valves you have since different valves have different components. In any case, I'd start by checking that the bleed screw and/or handle (depending on type) and that the flow control screw or handle (again depends on what make/model you have) to make sure they are in good condition and properly set. Be careful when turning these screws or handles don't force them past the normal stopping points. If that all checks out, there may be some dirt or debris stuck in the valve that's not allowing the diaphragm to open all the way.
Q: I got new sprinkler valves put in (Rainbird anti-siphon kind). Every time a valve shuts off, it makes a loud squeak, kind of like plastic rubbing (NOT a bang like water hammering). Is this normal and will it go away? If not, what could be the problem? This is annoying because the sound can be heard in the house as it echoes through the pipes.
As the valve shuts down, the diaphragm will vibrate as the pressure changes from one side to the other, then it will Thump as it seals. This is normal. However, to isolate the squeak, you may check to see if there is a 1(backflow preventer installed, 2) (if built into the valves) the variable pressure screw on the top of the valve is set correctly. The variable pressure screw usually has a cross top handle (older ones had a dial) and should be set so that on a high pressure line, it shuts down fairly quickly. If this is open all of the way, it can cause the diaphragm to squeal by slowing the internal pressure change to shut it down.
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Yep - the right atrioventricular valve, also called the tricuspid, has three cusps. On the other hand, the left AV valve, also known as the mitral valve or bicuspid, has two cusps. The bicuspid can withstand more pressure than the tricuspid.
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Valves don't clatter. Sticking or collapsed hydraulic valve lifter do. The use of the normal viscosity 5W-30 full synthetic oil contains a heavy dose of detergents. If gum, varnish or sludge is an issue, repeated use it may quiet things down. This is the least expensive thing to try first. If that doesn't do the trick it's time to (easily) replace the sticking hydraulic valve lifters. Thicker molasses oil may insulate noise while it's cold and heavy but it will never fix the issue.
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who cares, a toilet fill valve only costs a few bucks. as long as it opens and closes it's a good valve. if it only lasts for a year then it's a piece of junk and you should try another brand. it's not a major decision

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