API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 650 mm
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- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10 pc
- Supply Capability:
- 100 pc/month
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API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve 150 Class
The features of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve
Bolted Bonnet;Swing and lift disc;Metallic seating surfaces.
Body and Bonnet Connection of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:
The body and bonnet of Class150~Class900 check valves are usually with studs and nuts.And the body and bonnet of Class1500~Class2500 check valves are usually of pressurized seal design.
Body-To-Bonnet Joint of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:
Stainless steel + flesible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 150 and Class 300 check valve;Stainless steel + flexible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 600 check valve,and joint gasket is also optional for Class 600 check valve;Ring joint gasket is used for Class900 check valve;Pressurized seal design is used for Class 1500~Class 2500 check valves.
Seat of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:
For carbon steel check valve,the seat is usually forged steel.The sealing surface of the seat is spray welded with hard alloy specified by the customer.Renewable threaded seat is used for NPS<10 check="" valves="" and="" welded="" on="" seat="" can="" be="" also="" optional="" if="" being="" requested="" by="" the="" customer.welded="" is="" used="" for="" nps="">12 crbon steel gate valves .Forstainless steel check valve,integral seat is usually adopted ,or to weld hard alloy directly integrally.Threaded or welded on seat is also optional for stainless steel check valve if being requested by the customer.
Parameter of Cast Steel Check Valve:
Standard Criteria | ASME/ANSI/API customize |
Pressure Rating | 150 Class 300 Class 600 Class 900 Class 1500 Class 2500 Class customize |
Valve Size | 50 mm 65 mm 80 mm 100 mm 125 mm 150 mm 200 mm 250 mm 300 mm 350 mm 400 mm 450 mm 500 mm 600 mm 650 mm 700 mm 750 mm |
2 inch 2.5 inch 3 inch 4 inch 5 inch 6 inch 8 inch 10 inch 12 inch 14 inch 16 inch 18 inch 20 inch 24 inch 26 inch 28 inch 30 inch customize | |
Actuator | Automatic customize |
Connection | Butt Welding Flange RF Flange RTJ customize |
1-Body Material | A216 WCB A351-CF8 A351-CF8M customize |
2-Seat ring | A351-CF8 A351-CF8M A105+13Cr Tool Steel+A105 customize |
3-Disc | Tool Steel+A216 WCB A351-CF8M A351-CF8 A216 WCB+13Cr customize |
4-Arm | A351-CF8 A216 WCB A351-CF8M customize |
5-Nut | A194 8M A194-8 A194 2H customize |
6-Arm pin | A182-F6a A182-F316 A182-F304 customize |
7-Yoke | A351-CF8 A351-CF8M A216 WCB customize |
8-Bonnet nut | A194 8M A194-8 A194 2H customize |
9-Bonnet bolt | A193-B8 A193-B8M A193-B7 customize |
10-Bolt | A193-B7 A193-B8 A193-B8M customize |
11-Gasket | graphite+304 graphite+316 customize |
12-Bonnet | A216 WCB A351-CF8M A351-CF8 customize |
13-Eye bolt | A181 customize |
Design Standard | API 6D BS 1868 customize |
Connection Standard | API 605 ASME B 16.25-2007 ASME B 16.47A ASME B 16.47B ASME B 16.5 MSS SP-44 customize |
Test Standard | API 598 API 6D customize |
Face to Face | ASME B 16.10 customize |
Pressure-temperature ratings | ASME B 16.34-2004 customize |
Wall thickness dimension | API 600 BS 1868 |
FAQ of Cast Steel Check Valve:
Q1:I can’t find the type of steel check valve which I need. what can I do?
The chart above only lists out some common composition of steel check valve parts.We may provide other different parts material composition according to the customer's request or the actual valve working condition.
Q2:Which certification do your products pass?
Our products are in accordance with ISO 9001、ISO 14001、API 6A、API 6D、TS CE、API607/6FA/BS6755.
- Q:I have to get a new vacuum switching valve for my 1987 toyota pickup. I was just wondering what it does, and if a broken one would cause my truck to not idle. It still runs fine when i drive it, but when i push the clutch in the RPM's get really low until it dies.
- This valve probably is the EGR control valve - the computer monitors the EGR flow and controls the EGR valve opening by switching vacuum to it for opening or bleeding vacuum off for closing. If this valve fails to completely close the EGR valve at idle, the problem will mirror your symptoms
- Q:1st valve: this valve used to never cause me trouble at all. THen, suddenly it would stick at the end of the press. I took it home, washed it, cleaned out the casing with the casing brush, cleaned out the holes with a mouthpiece brush, and wiped it clean. Then, i put a bit of oil and it worked fine. Then next morning, i took it out for a second and found it was sticking again. It worked fine afterthat, but why would a valve to that?2nd: this valve is very troublesome. It's sticky for no reason. i did the same thing as the first, but it stayed stuck3rd. Weird valve. One day, i dropped my trumpet (not like down the stairs or anything, just while sitting) and this valve just messed up. What happened, was that when the valve was screwed in all the way, it would be stuck. however, when i unscrewed halfwayor a little less it worked amazingly well. Can a slightly unscrewed valve affect your playing (aside from the clicking noise). Can a valve get dented, causing this?
- I think the reason why your valves are sticking is because they are building up sludge from being oiled too much, and yes, that does happen frequently. Remove the valves carefully, wipe them off thoroughly with a clean cloth, replace them correctly, and lightly oil them. Then try pushing the valves a bit before playing.
- Q:Can someone explain to me what lead and lag time are? Also, what are the three flow characteristics? Linear, equal percentage but what is the third. If I wanted to have a minimum stop at 25% on a non-linear valve such as a butterfly valve, how would I achieve this. Obviously you cannot just restrict the valve by 25% of its travel as it is not linear
- Hope this helps in some way... To start the 3 main flow characteristics of a control valve are Liner, Equal percentage and Quick opening (or fast opening). If you interested there are also other characteristics. As far as i am aware the lead time is the time in which a signal is sent to the valve and the lag time is the time in which the actuator moves and closes the valve. The pysical movement. As for your final question the only thing i can think of is to alter the actual size of the butterfly valve or put a reducer before it. Sorry if my information was of little use.
- Q:For example, 2 valves from the modular 4.6 is equivalent to 1 valve from the LS1 which is a bigger valve.
- Yes, because the largest 4 valves one can cram in the same cylinder head are smaller BUT provide more area than the largest two valves that would fit in the same head. With valves, the larger the overall area, the better.
- Q:I have a '98 Dodge Caravan 3.0 and the valve cover gasket is bad. How do I replace it?
- to do it yourself, you need to have a workshop manual (cost $24.00) wrenches (cost $15.00) screwdrivers ( cost $12.00) Gasket (cost $8.50) Liquid gasket (cost $4.00) Hand Cleaner (cost $3.95) Total $67.45 plus tax Having someone else do it for you ( priceless)
- Q:I have 3 such valves in the line and none seem to be able to move past 10/4 oclock position and water remains on. Is there a way to adjust valve? Seems there is slot for screwdriver in center of valve.
- The threads are stripped, you will have to get a new one, until then shut off main line into house if you are flooding
- Q:After shutting off the hot and cold water lines to my washer to remove the unit from my laundry room i noticed a small leak coming from the hot water valve as if the valve is not completely closing. The valves themselves should be roughly 10 years old and were extremely tight when attempting to close them, my question is how big of a job is this to replace the water valve? Is it as simple as turning off the main water to the house and replacing the valve or are these typically soldered on? Currently i just ran the hose for the hot water to the drain line to prevent water from leaking onto the floor so is this something that is a fairly non issue once i hook the lines back up to the washer and turn them back on? Or is this something i should get addressed asap?
- Of course, the best solution is to replace the valve. Valves are either soldered on or attached to the pipe with compression fittings. If the pipe is copper and you see a silver band of metal between the pipe and the valve, that's probably solder. In this case, it would be best to let a plumber replace the valve. Otherwise, if your valve is attached with a compression fitting, you can get a new valve at your local home improvement store in the plumbing section. I recommend getting a 1/4 turn, steel ball valve. These are very simple and reliable valves. When you remove the old valve, be sure to also remove the compression washer and shoulder nut as well. You'll want to use the new ones that come with your valve. I also recommend using Teflon tape to wrap the threads of your new valve, at least two times in the direction of nut tightening. This will reduce the chance of leakage through the threads. Tighten the compression washer between the valve and the shoulder nut snugly. Make sure the valve is off. Turn the water on and check for leaks. If you see periodic drips, tighten the shoulder nut until the dripping stops. The other cheap and dirty alternative is to get a cap for your existing valve. These are also available in the plumbing section of your home improvement store. They run about $2-3, I believe, and are threaded onto the faucet where your hose attaches. That will keep your leaking valve from dripping all over the place.
- Q:IT USUALLY TAKES 2 SECONDS TO START THE MOTOR. NOW, IT TAKES OVER 40 SECONDS AT 7 AM. IT ALMOST KILL THE BATTERY. IF YOU PARK FOR 1 HOUR, 2ND START TAKES 10 SECONDS. IS THIS HAPPENING BECAUSE THE VALVES NEEDS ADJUSTING? HOW AND WHAT IS THE EASY WAY OF VALVES TUNE-UP?
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- Q:-air pressure of 40 psi only -run on 12v or 250 vac-no need for half open or any of the options i just want it on or off-it will be for a costum use so i dont need any special designs for it any thing will work -it also can be change from gas to water if
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- Q:One of the zone control valves in my heating system does not appear to be working. The thermostat is calling for heat, but no water is flowing. If the other thermostats call for heat, the valves seem to open as the pipes above the valve get hot from the water flowing through. The one that appears busted gets luke warm at best. All 4 valves in the system are fed from the same pipe, and the failed valve is the third in the series of 4 along the pipe (and #4 flows fine) so it doesn't appear to be something in the feeder pipe.Is there anything I can do to try and fix the existing valve, can I replace the valve myself? Would replacing the valve top of the valve (the green/gold portion) possible fix the issue (maybe a problem with the operation of the piston? Is there anything I ahve to do before removing the valve top aside from removing power to the valve?
- By your description it sounds like you have a Taco zone valve, if so, you can twist the top, (head) and it disconnects from the valve body, you could swap it with one of the others to prove good or bad before you buy one, there not cheap.
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API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 650 mm
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10 pc
- Supply Capability:
- 100 pc/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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