• API Cast Steel Check Valve   200 mm  in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 1
  • API Cast Steel Check Valve   200 mm  in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 2
  • API Cast Steel Check Valve   200 mm  in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 3
API Cast Steel Check Valve   200 mm  in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237

API Cast Steel Check Valve 200 mm in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 pc
Supply Capability:
100 pc/month

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The features of check valve

Bolted Bonnet;Swing and lift disc;Metallic seating surfaces.

Body and Bonnet Connection

The body and bonnet of Class150~Class900 check valves are usually with studs and nuts.And the body and bonnet of Class1500~Class2500 check valves are usually of pressurized seal design.                                                                                                         

Body-To-Bonnet Joint

Stainless steel + flesible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 150 and Class 300 check valve;Stainless steel + flexible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 600 check valve,and joint gasket is also optional for Class 600 check valve;Ring joint gasket is used for Class900 check valve;Pressurized seal design is used for Class 1500~Class 2500 check valves.

Seat

For carbon steel check valve,the seat is usually forged steel.The sealing surface of the seat is spray welded with hard alloy specified by the customer.Renewable threaded seat is used for NPS<10 check valves ,and welded on seat can be also optional if being requested by the customer.Welded on seat is used for NPS>12 crbon steel gate valves .Forstainless steel check valve,integral seat is usually adopted ,or to weld hard alloy directly integrally.Threaded or welded on seat is also optional for stainless steel check valve if being requested by the customer.


Standard   Criteria

 ASME/ANSI/API customize   

Pressure   Rating

 150   Class  300 Class  600 Class  900   Class  1500 Class  2500 Class customize 

Valve   Size

 50   mm  65 mm  80 mm  100 mm  125   mm  150 mm  200 mm  250 mm 300   mm  350 mm  400 mm  450 mm  500   mm  600 mm  650 mm  700 mm 750 mm




 2   inch  2.5 inch  3 inch  4 inch  5   inch  6 inch  8 inch  10 inch  12   inch 14 inch  16 inch  18 inch  20   inch  24 inch  26 inch  28 inch  30   inch customize 

Actuator

 Automatic customize 

Connection

 Butt Welding  Flange   RF  Flange RTJ customize 

1-Body Material

 A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M customize 

2-Seat ring

 A105+13Cr  A351-CF8M  A351-CF8  A105+Tool   Steel customize 

3-Disc

 13Cr+A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M  Tool Steel+A216   WCB customize 

4-Arm

 A351-CF8M  A216   WCB  A351-CF8 customize 

5-Nut

 A194-8  A194   2H  A194 8M customize 

6-Arm pin

 A182-F316  A182-F6a  A182-F304 customize   

7-Yoke

 A351-CF8M  A216   WCB  A351-CF8 customize 

8-Bonnet nut

 A194 2H  A194   8M  A194-8 customize 

9-Bonnet bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B8M  A193-B7 customize   

10-Bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B7  A193-B8M customize   

11-Gasket

 graphite+304  316+graphite customize   

12-Bonnet

 A351-CF8  A216   WCB  A351-CF8M customize 

13-Eye bolt

 A181 customize 

Design Standard

 API 6D  BS   1868 customize 

Connection Standard

 API 605  ASME B   16.25-2007  ASME B 16.47A  ASME B 16.47B  ASME   B 16.5  MSS SP-44 customize 

Test Standard

 API 598  API   6D customize 

Face to Face

 ASME B 16.10 customize 

Pressure-temperature ratings

 ASME B   16.34-2004 customize 

Wall thickness dimension

 API 600  BS   1868 customize 


Q: Hi. I am planning to install new kitchen faucet and noticed that there are two shut off valves under the sink. One of them is badly rusted and needs to be replaced. I noticed that it is connected to three pipes (one of which is kitchen faucet). The other is clearly water coming in. What is the third one connected to wall? Also how should I go about replacing this? Anything that I should be careful of?
In most installations, its the pipe that comes OUT of the wall, that is the supply line. On old enough faucets, a sprayer could have been attached by connecting it to one side or another (usually the hot water line) A dishwasher would also be connected to one or the other shut - off valves, which would depend on the model of dishwasher. You didn't mention, do you have an instant 'tankless' hot water heater under the cabinet? If so, then yes, your water supply may be coming from it, rather than the wall.... in which case, I'd suspect there was another sink (bathroom?) on the other side of that wall, being fed by the same tankless heater. This would NOT be the normal way to connect a tankless heater....but you wouldn't believe some of the things I've seen over the years, lol. And of course, if your refrigerator has an ice maker, and/or water supply in its door, you'll have a line running to the cold water supply for it.... but it may or may not be under the sink. Often, it gets run right through the floor and connected to the cold water line there. We can't really see enough of the lines to tell where they are going to give a definitive answer. Feel free to email or post more pics of all the lines, and I'll check back later, or you can email me. If both shut-off valves are corroded any at all, I'd go ahead and replace both of them, while I was working under there. Have Fun
Q: I just replaced my fill valve and all the other toilet components with a universal korky brand kit about 2 months ago and the fill valve is making a hissing sound once the water fills up in the tank. There are also air bubbles that come from the vents on top of the fill valve. I went to the Korky web site and they say that it is a faulty flapper but i checked to see if there is a leak by dropping one of those testers into the tank and there appears to be no leak. Any suggestions?
Korky Toilet Fill Valve
Q: Can sum1 tell me how i can tell if my valves are in the right place?I notice there are holes in the valves, please explain how those holes are suppose to face to for each of the 3 valves?
Put the correct valve in the valve case. (There is usually a notch that guides the placement, but it is not always accurate enough.) Blow gently into the trumpet, (you don't need to play, just blow as you do to clear the spit valves). If you feel a resistance, rotate the valve until the resistance is gone. When there is no resistance with the valve up, depress the valve and blow again. There should be no resistance there either. Repeat with each valve.
Q: when riding my motorcycle valves start knocking i took to a mechanic and they did not resolve problem. i have baby ed my motorcycle. dint know what to do at this point and time.
Charlie, I know it is hard to transfer a sound into a word. but valves don't knock, they clack. So if it isn't a clack it isn't a valve issue. Sadly you haven't helped us to diagnose the issue by giving the make and model of your bike. That would really be a help. I would like to help you further so if you hit my avatar you will find my email address for direct contact so I can help you further if you can't find out more help form the other guys.
Q: Liquid propane leaving the reflux pump of a distillation column flows through a 3.5 in ID pipe at a flowrate of 90 lbm/s. There is a flowrate control valve in this line, and it is set such that the pressure drop across the valve (delta)P=15 lbf/in^2. Upstream of the valve , the pressure P1=18 bar and the temperature T1=310 K. Assume there is negligible heat transfer with the surroundings and that the density of the liquid does not change significantly.a) What is the kinetic energy change across the valve?b) What is the enthalpy change across the valve?c) What is the temperature change across the valve?d) What is the entropy change across the valve?
If there is NO change in the density of liquid propane as it passes through the valve, and if the size (area) of the pipe upstream and downstream of the valve is the same, then a) there will be no change in the velocity of propane, hence there will be no kinetic energy change. b) this is a process of throttling, with no change in kinetic energy, hence there is no change in the enthalpy. c) temperature change can be determined using the detailed property table of propane, but if it is an almost-incompressible liquid, then this too, will be negligible. d) dh = T ds + v dp. Since there is no change in h, integrate this along a constant h line from inlet to exit (upstream to downstream) and you will get ds = -(v/T) dp. Since p reduces from inlet to exit, the change in entropy will be positive. This is as expected. If we assume density (=1/v) and temperature (T) to remain constant, then the change in entropy will be s_downstream - s_upstream = (p_upstream - p_downstream) v /T.
Q: i recently had a new condensing boiler and water cylinder replaced the existing radiators all have thermostatic valves fitted to them and worked fine until the boiler was replaced now all of my radiators when turned on, get as hot as the radiator without the valve on, i put each valve on number 2 which should be slightly warm, instead they are very very hot to the point you cant hold your hand on them for long one of the bedroom radiators can be heard bubbling like a kettle, i find it hard to believe all the valves could suddenly develop a fault could there be another reason for this ie fault with the fitting of pipework i am really concerned as we have young children in the house any thoughts on this much would be much appreciated
I think you might be confusing a thermostatic mixing valve with a thermostatic on/off valve. The thermostatic valves on radiators are on/off valves. They don't control the temperature of the water, they just shut the radiators on or off when the room temperature goes below or above a certain point. The radiators with thermostatic valves *should* get as hot as the radiators without (at least until the room heats up). I'm guessing your new boiler is set to heat the water to a higher temperature than the old boiler.
Q: so, im a day away from getting a 2002 748 and im super excited, iv always wanted a ducati, and i cant wait to have one of my own. i understand that ducks have a reputation of breaking and im prepared for it. I also understand the valves need to be adjusted every 50-100 feet :P all kidding aside i know every 6k miles they need to be adjusted. i dont know however how much it costs to have the valves adjusted. im sure it varys from shop to shop but a ball park quote would be really helpful just so its not a kick in the gut when i take it in for the first time. thanks
believe it or not a desmodromic valve adjustment takes like 8 hours.So its kinda costly to do that job.
Q: So I know the main purpose of the EGR valve is to recirculate some exhaust to the cylinders to reduce NOx emissions. However, a mechanic told me that a malfunctioning EGR valve can make the engine run way hotter, and that this can damage the pistons, or other components of the engine, over time. Is that true?
sorry dave. i inadvertenly gave you a bad rating. if the question asker, or someone at answers can, please change my vote to thumbs up. dave nailed it 100%
Q: whaT ARE THE SYMPTON OF A BAD EGR Valve Position Sensor loss of power ?1998 toyota camry v6
Typically when those sensors start to go bad, the EGR valve doesn't modulate properly between open and closed. When that happens you usually notice a sort of fluttering in the power delivery, often when cruising at a set speed but sometimes also when accelerating as a result of the wrong amount of exhaust gas being recycled back into the engine. You sometimes will notice a loss of power when accelerating as well. If the EGR valve is opening more than necessary it will be allowing more exhaust gas back into the engine than is beneficial....and that will reduce the amount of power the engine produces. If the EGR valve is staying closed more than necessary, you might not notice as many driveability issues but you'll probably notice your average fuel mileage decreasing a little and/or a check-engine light being triggered and/or a failure of an emissions test (even if the check engine light hasn't tripped) if you live somewhere that emissions checks are required.
Q: Hello,I've not found a perfect fit using a solenoid valve for gravity fed irrigation system. Primarily because it requires a constant drain on the battery while the valve is open. Is there a motorized valve to fit the bill? One that momentarily requires electricity to open and close the valve at 12v DC or less to work in gravity fed system?
should not be any issue finding on your plumbing features. do only not forget approximately to deactivate and cap the line coming from the front. it is basic to apply that line with the two between the valves finding on the place you chop back and cap it.

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