• 4 Inch Stainless Steel Deep Well Pump (4SP8) System 1
  • 4 Inch Stainless Steel Deep Well Pump (4SP8) System 2
  • 4 Inch Stainless Steel Deep Well Pump (4SP8) System 3
4 Inch Stainless Steel Deep Well Pump (4SP8)

4 Inch Stainless Steel Deep Well Pump (4SP8)

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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Basic Info. of 4 Inch Stainless Steel Deep Well Pump (4SP8)

Model NO.:4SP8

Performance:Drainage Pump

Start Up:Electric Pump

Media:Water Pump

Application:Submersible Pump, Clarified Water Pump

Type:Blade Pump

Material:Stainless Steel

Power:Electric

Structure:Multistage Pump

Theory:Centrifugal Pump

Assembly:Liquid Pumps

Industry:Household & Agricultural Pump

Export Markets:Global

 

Additional Info. of 4 Inch Stainless Steel Deep Well Pump (4SP8)

Packing:Export Carton

Standard:CE

Production Capacity:10000PCS/Year

 

4 Inch Stainless Steel Deep Well Pump

Applications of 4 Inch Stainless Steel Deep Well Pump (4SP8)

 For water supply from wells or reservoirs. For domestic use, for civil and industrial      applications. For garden use and irrigation.

 

Operating Conditions of 4 Inch Stainless Steel Deep Well Pump (4SP8)

 Maximum fluid temperature up to +35º C
 Maximum sand content: 0.3%
 Maximum immersion: 80m
 Minimum well diameter: 4 inch

-Motor and Pump
 Rewindable motor
 Three-phase: 380V-415V, Single-phase: 220V-240
 Equip with special start-up control box.
 Adopted the NEMA standard
 Insulation class: B
 Protection grade: IP 68
 Intermal diameter of outlet :  2"

 

Warranty of 4 Inch Stainless Steel Deep Well Pump (4SP8)

1 year (according to our general sales conditions)

 

FAQ

Q: Are CNBM pumps available in DIY stores?

A: Yes, currently, we’re available for DIY stores all over the world.

Q: Where do I have to send pumps for service?

A: You must send them to the CNBM PUMP Service Point or, after contacting Customer Care, to the CNBM PUMP service center in China.

Q: Are your pumps acid-proofed?

A: To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.

Q: Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

A: Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.

Q: Are your pumps protected against dry running?

A: No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

4 Inch Stainless Steel Deep Well Pump (4SP8)

Q: im attaching a motor from another filter onto my homemade filter. but i dont want to have to run a cord all the way from the pond to a powerplug. does anyone know of another way to such water into a filter without using electricity? some kind of siphon?
1. I had an electrician put a buried cable in the ground coming up to a weatherproof post with outlets and an on-off switch. It was not as expensive as I thought it would be. 2. You can put the water pump and filters by the house or even inside and run buried water pipes out to the pond, or just put the pump inside and have the filter by the pond which would run by water pressure or gravity. 3. A windmill or solar panel. A siphon uses potential energy stored in the water to work. Once the water has dropped through the siphon, there is no more energy to draw from and the siphon stops. A windmill or solar panel could provide the power to lift the water back up and make the process continuous, or at least while it's windy or sunny. However when pricing these two options even though they would be very cool if you have the large yard to accommodate them, they turn out to cost much more than either 1. or 2. and have much higher maintenance costs associated with them. 4. If it's a very small pond, you can get a solar powered filter/fountain that looks like a floating plastic lily pad. My son had one of these, but it only worked on the sunniest of days, and lasted one summer before wearing out. If you add a large block of filter foam over the intake it may last a little longer. Rinse it out two or three times a week.
Q: There is a pump, the rated power is 1200W, but only more than 600 W measured!What's the matter, please?I was not measuring no-load, pumping water in the pool, this work environment should be sufficient to pump full load?Also, is the rated power should not change?Thank you
Manufacturers in order to make money, the nameplate marked "1200W", in fact, the maximum power of the motor, only 750W.
Q: I want to replace a water pump for my friend. I can't find any books on this car. I'm not sure how to replace this pump. Looking at new water pumps there lookes like 10 bolts, but on my chevy truck there was only 4. I don't know if all holes take a bolt or not, or if I need to take something out before I take the water pump out.Anyone ever changed a water pump on this car? or know what book or website I can look at which will give me an idea.
Sounds like you should take it to a Good Shop before something goes Very !Wrong!
Q: Ok, so if i have an 80 watt solar panel and want to run a 12v dc fan and water pump ONLY when the sun is out or enough light to power them, will i need something like a voltage regulator? I would like to have the panels charge deep cycle 12 v batteries at the same time or when the fan and pump is not running. For instance, i have the panels out and my fan and pump on allowing them to run only on solar as well as charge the batteries. What diagram would i use? I would probably get a charge control for the batteries but more importantly what would i need to regulate the power from the panels? Inverter?
You may have to do some math. The 80 watt panel is only 80 watts at peak sun on a 75°F day at the equator. Chances are you will have something less than 80 watts to work with. But you can add up all the hours of partial sun to get an equivalant number of peak sun hours. An example would be a few hours in the morning and evening at partial power and a couple of hours at solar noon at nearly full power may give you 5 peak sun hours worth of light. 5 psh x 80 w/ps = 400 wh Your supply may have 400 watt hours worth of power per day. You state that the fan is 12v dc but what is the wattage? It could be a little 12v dc fan out of a computer or it could be a huge 12v dc fan out of an RV. What is the power requirements of the water pump? Is it a little 12v dc one for a foot tall decorative fountain or an industial 3 phase pump for a well? To charge the battery you need a voltage 120% higher than the battery voltage. 12v x120%=14.4 v To add up your loads convert them all the use to dc watt hours per day Here is an example to give you an idea of how to play with your numbers: Fan 12vdc x 1.5 A = 18 watts, use this for 5 hours your load would be 18w x 5hr = 90 watt hours Pump 120 vac x 2.5 amps = 300 watts (The AC will need to come from an inverter. The inverter has a certain amount of loss. How good it does the job of converting dc to ac is know as it's efficency. Lets use 90% to be safe) 300 watts / 0.90 = 333.4 watts, use this for 1/2 hour per day 333.4w x 0.5hr = 166.7 watt hours The 90 watt hours + the 167 watt hours = 257 watt hours per day. This would leave about 140 watt hours to put into the battery. Yes it would be best to use a charge controller to protect the battery from overcharging if the pump and fan are off, or from draining the battery too much if the fan or pump stays on.
Q: I posted this earlier but nobody really answered my question . if my water pump is clearly on the serpentine belt I t need to replace the timing chain to get to it correct? The bolts holding the pump in are around it near the timing chain cover but they don't look like they are inside it. the pump is clearly driven by the serpentine so should I be fine not removing my timing belt to fix the pump? its leaking. Also I know you should replace the timing chain+tensioner but I inspected the chain 400 miles ago its properly tensioned the belt is in good condition its a chain it will last the life of the car its not the cheap belts.
Are you forgetting to mention something? Ah! Year, Make and Model. Engine size is a plus ... only a fool who knows nothing will answer your question without knowing the at least needed to know information ... What do you mean: if my water pump is clearly on the serpentine belt I t need to replace the timing chain to get to it correct? You've said: Timing chain and yet, the first answer by You may be right said: If you can change the pump without removing the timing belt then go for it, you are lucky. See what has happened when the needed to know information were not specified? .. and how do you expect any of us to know the question you have mentioned before and could not read your history in YA? I've rest my case ...
Q: I have a Goulds JPlus water pump inside my home. Last night, my wife and I heard it going on and off repeatedly when we went to bed. I have two shallow wells hooked up to it, so I switched wells even though I didn't believe the one I was on was dry (it was supplying H2O fine).Still no luck, so I turned it off at the breaker and shut off the valve between the tank and pressure switch. Today, the pump pressure gets to between 50 and 60, then goes off. It then loses pressure v ery quickly (approx 10-20 seconds) and goes back on when the pump switch hits the lower threshold. It sounds like the water is running back through the pump and out of the house when it goes off unless I turn the shut off valve I spoke of earlier. I changed the pressure switch and no difference.I can, however, turn it on and shower, flush, etc. I just then have to go down and turn the pump back off.Any help would be greatly appreciated!
If there is space try to hit the head of the bolt with a hammer, the shock from the hammer blow will help you to loosen the bolt. Failing that the next thing to try is an allen key socket, with this you can use a long strong arm to apply extra torque to the bolt. Be carefully not to open up the head of the bolt as this can be a major pain. If you still cannot get it out then if the water pump is to be replaced try to get an angle grinder on the bolt to cut its head off. Once the head is off and the pump is out you can use a stud extractor of a good vice grip to remove the stub of bolt left over.
Q: My dad wants to buy a salt water pump for a tiny pool.I'm not sure if it's pointless for the size that the pool is, but it is 12x12x3Is it too small of a pool or are there salt water pumps meant for tiny pools that I could look at?A link to any would be nice. :)Thanks!
salt okorder /
Q: does aquarium pump go in water?
It depends on what pump you have. If it is an air pump, no, it does not go in the water. If it is a submersible water pump, yes it does go in the water. Powerheads are one type of submersible water pumps. If it is an external or in-line water pump, no it does not go in the water. Most hang on back filters the pump does not go in the water, but Aqueon is one where it is designed to have the pump in the water. So, what pump/filter do you have?
Q: need step by step on how to change water pump
1999 Cadillac Eldorado
Q: overheating.it has a new thermostat,radiator is clean.temp stays normal during idle,rises when i start to drive.ac is off when this happens.its a 4.7 dodge durango.can water pump simplyquot;go badquot;without ever leaking?
The short answer to your question: It is unlikely that a water pump will go bad without leaking, but weirder things have happened. Your thinking is right overheating only when you drive is an indication of limited flow, either caused by a restriction (radiator, hose, thermostat), an air bubble, or a bad pump. Are you sure that the air is bled out of your system? If you have an air pocket in your engine or at the pump, you will get reduced flow. I think that the 4.7 Durango has a radiator cap, if so, with the engine cold, take the cap off, fill it, and start the engine. If you get bubbles every time you rev the engine, then you may have a bad head gasket, this would introduce bubbles in the system... Make sure that the lower radiator hose is not collapsing. Most of these hoses have a stiff spring inside to keep them from collapsing when the water pump is running. Otherwise, my guess would be that your pump is bad, or you have more restrictions in your system. Good luck.

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