• 4" Peripheral Submersible Deep Well Pump (4SKM) System 1
4" Peripheral Submersible Deep Well Pump (4SKM)

4" Peripheral Submersible Deep Well Pump (4SKM)

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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Applications

For water supply from wells or reservoirs.
For domestic use, for civil and industrial appplications.
For garden use and irrigation.


Operating conditions

Maximum fluid temperature up to +35º C
Maximum sand content: 0.3%
Maximum immersion: 50m
Minimum well diameter: 4"


Motor and pump

Rewindable motor
Three-phase: 380V-415V, Single-phase: 220V-240
Equip with special start-up control box.

Adopted the NEMA standard

Insulation class: B

Protection grade: IP 68

Intermal diameter of outlet :  1" 


Q: No water will come out of any faucet in the whole house and I do not know what to do, if I need a whole new pump/tank or what could be causing this please help
Sounds like you have a jet pump, the kind with the pump above ground? If so, the motor to pump seal may have gone bad, those are ceramic, and you can look at a new one compared to an old seal, and see no obvious difference. You may have a slight leak in one of the lines or hoses there at the pump, or close to it. You may have simply lost prime, which can happen if you have a small leak or if the water table drops. If you are able to prime the pump, it may take off and start pumping water again, but you may need a technician to come repair things, depending on what is wrong. Oh yeah, turn the [pump off, don't let it run and do nothing, because the seal will overheat! -Saw another poster answered you first, (I type slow) and he gave you more info than I, sounds like they used to work on them too. good luck.
Q: Car started making noises right after hitting deer, week later car that has never had a problem began to overheat and mechanic says water pump went out and that it has nothing to do with hitting the deer.
It could have had something to do with it if the radiator was damaged. This is the problem with new cars everything is hidden so you need to replace a half dozen good parts so you can fix the one thats bad. In the not to long ago days you would have went to the auto store, plunked down about $20.00 for a new pump went home and after taking out maby 4 bolts, had the new one on and been back on the road in an hour or so. If your not old enough to remember those days then it doesn't matter. Your going to pay maby 6-8 hundred dollars to replace a 50 dollar part.
Q: If the water pump does not get water to pump, will it be burnt out? If so, then can it be fixed? And if it doesnt get water to pump, what exactly happens to it?
Jennifer said it so rated her, it's called air spin and she told you the rest
Q: The single-phase water pump in the house is out of order. After opening the power supply, the motor can not start by itself. It is necessary to turn the shaft clockwise by hand. Then, what is the problem? How can I solve it? Thank you
The capacitor is broken. Change it.
Q: The at is a 2003 Toyota celica. And how much would it cost to get the water pump and timing belt replaced?
It’s useless to try and get an estimate for the cost of parts and labor for repairs via Yahoo Answers. In a lot of cases we have no idea of what country you’re in, let alone city, state, province or township. Even knowing where you live is of little use as prices for parts and labor can vary wildly within the same area. If you understand the problem and just need parts you can Google for the best prices for parts. Your best solution for getting an estimate of repair costs is by contacting an independent auto repair shop in your area. Don’t go with any of the franchise or chain type auto repair places as they frequently use poorly trained help and many have no mechanical training at all, and dealers have to charge more to cover their high overhead. It’s really best (when possible) to get a personal referral from someone you trust to a local independent shop.
Q: Colleagues, could you explain the principles of operation of the water vane vacuum pump? What range of pressure can one achieve with this type of vacuum pump? If somebody could post a reference to books, app notes, commercial datasheets of such pumps, that would be simply great.
Natural okorder /
Q: My old pump burned up so i recently replaced it (with a refurbished pump) I have new pipe to the pump, new tank. my pump is a 1/2 hp 230v pump, I also replaced the control box. With my pump plugged in and the water coming straight out of the pipe bypassing the tank when I turn the power on I will get water for a minute or so then I won't get water for a minute. This will keep happening. I have checked the switch and when I quit getting water there is still power going to the pump. any suggestions or ideas? bad wiring or bad pump?...I know that there is water in thew well, the pump is located at 100 ft of a 115 ft well and i can see the water level about 10 ft underground.
A good pump would pump water continuously without being hooked to the tank. You say the power is still going to the pump when it quits but you didn't say if it is getting the proper voltage and you didn't say if the pump is still running but just not pumping. If it's still running then try raising the pump some. If it's not running then I'd suspect the thermal protector switch so you'd need a new pump. Are you sure there's a full 230V going to the pump? Sometimes ants like to get in the electrical pressure switch and get in between one or more of the contacts.
Q: Here are specifications for two water pump sets. I would like to know which one will have more vertical suction.Pump 1:1.5 hp, 98cc Engine, 4 - Strokes RPM 3600 (Engine RPM), Petrol Fuel, Fuel Consumption 700 ml/hour, Delivery (horizontal) 50m, Inlet / Outlet Port (Dia) 1.5x1.5 inches, Output Capacity 48000 Litres / Hour.Pump 2:3.3hp, 163 cc Engine, 4 - Strokes RPM 3600 (Engine RPM), Petrol Start amp; Kerosene Run, Fuel Consumption 700 ml/hour, Delivery (horizontal) 26m, Inlet / Outlet Port (Dia) 2x2 inches Output Capacity 36000 Litres / Hour.which one should I go for.
PUMP 1.
Q: the car is a 1973 Pontiac Lemans, 350 V8. Water pump needs to be replaced. It's obviously a mechanical pump that's in there now. I was thinking of getting something with more capacity (to start off) as I feel the car could do with a better cooling system (and I have to get a water pump anyways). I was thinking of getting an electrical pump as that would also free up a bit of power from the engine. From what I gather, by doing this it seems I need to switch to an electrical fan also. Is that the case? Any advice/opinions on electrical systems and set ups? Any recommendations?Thanks in advance to anyone who answers. Much appreciated.
stick with the stock set up
Q: Water is leaking from the front of my car, on the right where the radiator is located. only thing is that its not leaking a lot, just a little.... but people keep telling me that my timing belt is going to go out and that i will be stranded!. i will like to know the cost of both the water pump and timing belts for my 2001 PT Cruiser please.
A suggestion. If your car is around 70,000 to 100,000 miles then you should change the timing belt. If it breaks, it will leave you stranded, and cost you more because the engine may be damaged. (girlfriend ignored the warning and it cost her $1000 in engine parts - I was the free labor!) Because the timing belt runs the water pump, most mechanics recommend changing the water pump at the same time, the water pump does not cost that much more. Parts and labor for this cost about $700 to $1000, sometimes it costs a bit more because the idler pulley is worn and must be replaced also. As for your leak, it would be best to have the cooling system pressure tested to find the spot of the leak. If its sometime other than the water pump, you'll be glad you found it early. Good luck.

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