WYJ series DC Power Supply
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| Principle & Characteristics |
This series product is manufactured with the international advanced“floating iteration technology. It is constructed by transforming step-down rectifying filtration、high power module adjustment、standard sampling amplifying and so on. The output voltage and current of this series product are optional for fixed or adjustable、one-way or multiple-way. It has excellent stability and wave coefficient、less noises、small size、novel style、stable property, and can be parallel or serial connected with the same specification product. |
| Scope of Application |
It can be widely in industrial production、laboratory in colleges、research institute、post and telecommunications、automatic device and facilities. |
| Main Technical Parameter |
Input voltage: AC220V ±10%, 50Hz /60Hz |
| Overall Size & Weight(For reference only) |
- Q: If every time I put a new fuse in my surround sub and switch on the power to the sub it instantly blows the fuse with a deafening 120Hz ripple even before I press the power button on the controller, which I should have to do before any sound comes out at all, what is the easiest way to diagnose which component has fried and made a short? Is there any way to test capacitors without power running to them?
- If by surround sub you mean a dedicated amplifier and a subwoofer hooked to it: 1] Test the impedence of the subwoofer; if it is shorter that may be the sole problem [or it may have fired the amp]. Compare that with the specification value 2] You can measure caps with an ohmmeter [very crubdely, though, but likely well enough; see
- Q: I have a circuit keep blowing fuse(0.4A) with slightly lower rating of my transformer (0.5A) without any load, so i think is the issue of in-rush current. ***Note : my transformer is toroidal, saw a lot of website saying they inhibit higher inrush voltage (80times. scary)***Will the in-rush current will do any harm or any changes to other things(component) ?If so, what type or rating of fuse should i get ? (best if easily get, market available)ORis there any way to de-energize the transformer when it is turned off/before switch on, or any circuit to use for protect over-current/voltage during inrush ONLY ***Note that i want to make my circuit fuse safe from short circuit and blow the fuse if it is really short circuit***
- Assuming the transformer is well designed and you are operating it within it's rating, no problem. I'd change the fuse to 3/4 amps slo-blow. .
- Q: 1998 Mazda pick up B4000 power windows and wipers only work sometimes, fuses are ok what else could the problem be?? Will work fine for a while and then go dead and after a while will start working again?? Thanks for any response to this problem.
- Loose ground or connection, Corroded connections etc. Check the wiring to and from the components
- Q: I have a 2000 Chevy Cavalier 2.2L Automatic. Tried starting it and nothing works. What DOES WORK are the headlights, horn, door chime, brake lights, tail lights, hazards, and the interior lights. No idiot lights, radio, heater/fan, and doesn't turn over. Battery is charged. I also put a screw driver to the posts of the starter and it sparked, so juice is going to the starter. I know that it is something electrical. What puzzles me is that not even a idiot light comes on, even when I turn on the headlights, the dash lights turns on as well and that didn't come on. Does anyone know what I should look for or check? Has anyone heard of a Relay that goes bad where GM had a recall once? No answer is a stupid answer unless you tell me to check my antifreeze. Thanks!
- Ignition switch may be bad. The Radio, Idiot Lights, Heater/fan only work with the ignition switch on. All the other lights, horn, door chime, etc work weather the key is on or not.
- Q: I have a 2004 Dodge, Durango. It has the stock 6 disc stereo, DVD, Sirrus combo. One of the kids left the light on one night and we had to jump-start the car. Since then the CD player will not work. Everything else works just fine. It is like the CD player doesn't exist. Has anyone else had this happen? Does anyone know how to fix it? I know i could take it to the dealer and they could probably fix it for a marginal fee. I was trying to avoid that route if I could. I am mechanically inclined so if it can be fixed I could probably do it. If it is something that is actually broken, I guess I am SOL.
- Check the fuse box and check on line if the stereo needs to be reset.
- Q: I was able to find out what the source of amperage draw was coming from, and it is the IOD. It is drawing 0.426 amps. The meter reads 0.923 and the Vehicle reads 0.497 without it installed. Generally, vehicles should have this amount to begin with correct? What could possibly be the issue with the IOD? Why is there an excess in amperage draw?
- Because many of the modern electronics that run the engine, the radio, the car alarm, and a lot of accessories all need a small amount of current to keep settings stored in their chips. All your radio stations, engine errors record and some other settings you've made or the car has made would disappear without these current draws. I do suspect that your car alarm is the main culprit, probably drawing nearly a half an Amp when it's on for the sensing circuits and monitor circuit. I wouldn't worry about an amp to an amp and a half. Most modern lead acid batteries carry a cold cranking amp rating of hundreds of amps. If you are having trouble starting in cold weather or after the vehicle sets for a few days, better to investigate the condition of the battery, cables, terminals and alternator than worry about less than an amp draw. It's just a sign of the times, everything needs juice. I hope this helps you understand what's happening a bit better.
- Q: I have a Polk Audio MOMO C400.4 that im planning to use to power my MOMO 6x5 components and MOMO 6x9's @ 75w RMS x 4. I also have a Kenwood KAC-7202 that i plan on running bridged which will pull 460w RMS @ 4 ohms. What size fuze will I need for 4 gauge wire? I have a 4AWG wire with a Rockford Fosgate distribution block that splits from 4AWG to 8AWG with AGU fuses on it, unknown size Would I still need a inline fuse to the battery?
- The fuse near the battery is more important than the d-block fuses. One amp is 60A, the other's 40A - so logically you'd want a 100A fuse at the battery and a 60/40 in the d-block. 4 awg main and 8's out should be fine assuming you only have a few feet from the d-block to the amps.
- Q: I have a 30amp fuse that operates my door locks and power seats. I carry around a box of them because sometimes the fuse will last a couple of weeks, or days or hours. Any ideas of an easy fix?
- Either you have an intermittent short to ground in the wiring or something on the circuit (motor, for example) is adding resistance and subsequently pulling excessive current because it is binding/starting to fail etc. and causing the circuit to overload and the fuse to pop. Is there anything else on the circuit that you know of? Do the power seats move smoothly and consistently on the tracks? Some cars have several motors that control the power seats so it can get complicated if one of them is the culprit. If it is not in the wiring and a component is causing it it sometimes it is easier to wait for the problematic component to take a sh*t and then just replace it. That's about the best that I can say over a computer. Good luck!
- Q: Any schematics would be very helpful, or an exact fuse location. I know it should be in the panel, but I do not have an owners manual. No power is getting to the fuel pump, but is getting to the sending unit. Thanks fo your help.
- It is in the fuse box by the drivers left foot. you have to pull the fuse panel off and then the panel that it attaches to. In my car it was the black relay in the front of the fuse box. It isn't marked on the inside of the fuse panel.
- Q: If you add in cost of each component you will definetly win.Please reply soon. First to answer with good reply will win 10 POINTS!
- Easy, the battery itself, a charging source (alt, generator, battery charger) some 8 awg wire to connect it to the battery and enough brains to know how to wire it. :)
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WYJ series DC Power Supply
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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