• FD8.0-10Kw-20 Wind generator System 1
FD8.0-10Kw-20 Wind generator

FD8.0-10Kw-20 Wind generator

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Type:  3 Blade Upwind

Rotor Diameter: 8.0 m

Start-up Wind Speed: 2.5 m/s (5.6 mph)

Cut-in Wind Speed:  3 m/s (6.7 mph)

Rated Wind Speed:  10m/s (22.4mph)

Rated Power: 10k Watts

Maximum Power: ~ 12k Watts

Cut-Out Wind Speed:  15m/s(33.5mph)

Timing manner: automatically adjust the windward angle

Overspeed Protection:  AutoFurl

Temperature Range:  -40 to +60 Deg. C (-40 to +140 Deg. F)

Generator: Permanent Magnet Alternator

Output Form: 240 VDC /360VDC Nominal

Work principle and features

Working principle: Wind energy is used as the motive power to provide low speed rotation of a permanent magnet generator to produce alternating current which is then converted to direct current by a controlled constant voltage rectification system, the resulting voltage being stored in a battery, or batteries. The direct current from the battery, (batteries), is then converted to alternating current by an inverter, the resulting controlled and stabilised alternating current being used to power the load, this is the general principle for battery storage type systems. Grid connect systems take the alternating current produced by the turbine directly to an inverter which controls and stabilises the alternating current and also provides numerous control elements for direct connection to the electricity grid.

Features : The products combine unique and innovative design with high reliability. The innovative design has been awarded both Invention and Practical new patents by the State Intellectual Property Department and thereby has totally independent property rights in China, resulting in the market leading position in wind to electrical energy conversion, technical design and efficiency. Key design features such as very low rotation speed result in increased efficiency in comparison to other small turbine systems.

Applications and installations

The products are used in areas that benefit from good wind regimes but have little or no electrical grid connection such as; islands, desert and low inhabitation areas, frontier defence posts, microwave and telephone communication stations, forest observation posts, oil pipeline delivery stations, highway lighting etc. Rural and urban applications include, community squares and recreational areas, parks, landscape and scenic locations, resorts, and other ecological areas, applications also include on or off grid national electrified fencing systems.The utilisation of wind energy at no on-going cost significantly reduces the environmental impact of fossil fuel usage whilst saving vital energy resources.


Q: I have a 2005 Impala LS 3.8L engine with a stock alternator and a 100amp under-hood fuse. I don't know how many amps this alternator puts out. I will probably be getting a bigger fuse but I need to know what size too. I plan on getting 0 gauge power wire and a Hifonics ZRX2000.1D amp. The 15 L7's are 1,000watts RMS a piece so I will constantly be running 2,000watts at 1ohm. So if you could tell me what kind of alternator I need that will fit my car and how big of a fuse, I would greatly appreciate it. Any other advice is nice too! Thanks!
if you are running 0 gauge with 100 amp fuse you are fine however save your money on the alternator and purchase a capacitor instead. if you really are getting 1000rms to each sub then you will need at least a 2 farad to keep the lights from dimming when the bass drops and only costs 100 to 200 bucks new off the Internet if you search it. on the other hand a good 300amp+ alternator will be significantly more. I would buy a capacitor and some good component speakers if I were you. I am running a full soundstream system with 1000watt soundstream amp and 2 Picasso dvc soundstream 10,s bridged to one ohm and my lights were only dimming slightly when the bass dropped in my 93 Isuzu pup minitruck and so I got a 1 farad lightning cap to put an end to that because the stock alternator is my only option as manufacturers don't offer many aftermarket parts for Isuzu like they do for Toyota, Nissan and Mazda imports. keep thumpin bro
Q: I have a 1982 Prelude, and everytime I try to connect my battery, the 55 amp main fuse (located in the engine wall by the negative battery cable) blows. Any ideas? Did I get a battery that is too big for the car?
First is to make sure you have the cable hook up the right direction. Second you may have a short out of your main fuse box. If you capable disconnect all wire to your alternator, tape them off and reconnect you battery if the fuse not blow then replace the alternator, if it still blow then get help from a local mechanic.
Q: I bought a pair of dm220 bowers and Wilkins speakers from this man on kijiji. I've had them for about 3 months now and I would say it's the best purchase I've ever made in audio gear. So I had a party at my house a few weeks ago, and I got a little careless, I raised the volume high enough I had blown the fuse of each speaker. Upon replacing them, the right speaker did not work right away.I get the right speaker to work temperaly by slightly tilting it and letting fall back to the floor. (it's a tall speaker) That bang seems to knock something inside, I hear a spark noise from the speaker, and it works perfectly, but not for ever. I have to do this every few days to keep it going.Last night, that wouldn't fix it. So i decided to turn the volume pretty loud, hear that spark noise, and it started working! Even after reducing the volume. I see this is a specific problem, but I would very much appreciate some advice on a proper fix for this speaker.
You obviously have a loose connection--speaker drivers very rarely have an intermittent problem. I would check the fuse-holder. Either the spring at one end is not under enough pressure when the fuse is in, or perhaps you replaced the original fuse with one slightly shorter. Unfortunately it has been many years since I have seen a DM220, and I don't remember the type of fuse or fuse-holder that it has. I would swap fuses with the other speaker, and see if the problem moves: I HAVE seen defective, intermittent fuses!
Q: I am trying to repair a fill valve fuse in my maytag washer.
The one amp fuse is there to limit the current to 1 amp. Using a 5 amp fuse will allow 5 amps to flow in a circuit designed for 1 amp. This current over the designed max current can cause damage to the components in the circuit and could also cause the components to overheat and start a fire. DON'T DO IT.
Q: I'm adding fuses and a relay for a 10 HP motor on 480v. I figure that it draws about 15-20 amps under load but that does that account for the start up in rush current? Should I be using a 50-60 breaker/fuses? If I'm using fuses, I assume that I would need to divide the amps by phases. ie 60 amps total and 3 phases 3, 20 amp fuses?
Try 15A fuse per phase first,that giving a better protection to motor. If motor is always running in full load condition,touch the fuse case to monitor the fuse temperature, If they are quite hot then replacing them with 20A per phase to make them last longer.
Q: I have a 1987 ninja 750. i bought it and it turned on with an old battery but needed to be jumped to start. i bought a new battery . a duralast the one you add the acid in and charge. but now it wont turn on. a battery before that i added a new battery but i mixed up the terminals (pos on neg and neg on pos) did that mess up the electrical stuff or fuses or am i doing something wrong. hope to hear some help.
If you connected a battery backwards, you hopefully just blew some fuses. Check them all. Note that there may be a main fusible link somewhere apart from the actual fuse block. If the fuses are all good, you've blown some major electrical component(s). Time to either start troubleshooting, or haul it to a shop.
Q: I have a 1994 GMC Jimmy that keeps blowing the instrament panel and gauges fuse. After the vehicle has warmed up for about a half hour the fuse blows then the transmission won't shift all the gauges go out speedometer and odometer included. When i put a new fuse in it blows instantly. I know that their must be a short somewhere but can u tell me where the most common place might be for that to happen. I have already disconnected the rear defogger.
hmmmmmmmm.does it have a digital cluster? dumb q ,but correct fuse size is being put back in? i would need the owners manual or a repair manual to find ALL components that run off that fuse.i have replaced some clusters,but not for blowing fuses.will get back to you.my email is open
Q: 1997 Chrysler Sebring w/2.5L V6.Customer complaint: Blows 20A ASD fuse - sometimes twice in one day, other times runs fine for more than a week.I can duplicate the problem about every 4-5 minutes. I have installed an amp meter in the ASD fuse socket - when I jerk the throttle open the meter will pin to 40+ amps (very intermittant. It might take several times to duplicate.) It quickly returns to the normal 3-5 amp draw - often quickly enough that it doesn't even trip a 20A circuit breaker in series with the amp meter (but instantly blows the fuse if it is inserted)Unfortunately, more often than not, the circuit breaker will trip.I am at my wits end on this one. I have checked and rechecked the wiring and components associated with the ASD relay feeds. Obviously - I'm missing the problem!Any tips would be greatly appreciated - Thanks.
Why don't you do a amp test on the fuel pump circuit and keep in mind that if a fuse blows black inside that indicates a short. Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way I'd try supplying the ASD circuit with a whole new ground and then see what occurs bec I still believe that its a wiring issue or bad ground or bad connection etc. Rick is right bec the PCM does monitor and control the ASD relay circuit but even the PCM could have a bad ground so check the grounds.
Q: I changed all the bad fuses, then I changed the switch, then I tested the motor by hooking up a 12V battery pack, and it worked just fine up and down. What else could be the problem and how do I test it?Also, the window and the door lock mechanisms don't work on the passenger front door, even from the master control on the drivers side door.
Take a test light hit the switch up and check one of the pins to light up, hit it a couple of times, then go down you might have to switch to another pin. If it doesn't work your not getting power your fuses are good, you say the switches are good so in that case you have a broken wire somewhere usually where the door harness closes and opens also a faulty switch on the actual door can make it so the master switch doesn't work on that door either. but it sounds like you need to trace wires for a break somewhere.
Q: If it is a fuse which fuse or fises would it be thank yoi
I think there are two different fuse boxes in your car - The 'small' one under the dash a second one under the hood. The box under the hood has one larger fuse that feeds all of the dash board circuits. It's either on the driver's wheel well or up just behind below the battery.

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