• WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pump System 1
  • WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pump System 2
  • WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pump System 3
WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pump

WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
500 unit/month

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1)  Product outline
WQ series submersible sewage pump absorbs the advantages with the same products made abroad and at home, holds a comprehensive optimized design on its hydraulic model, mechanical structure,sealing, cooling, protection, control etc. points, features a good performance in discharging solids and in the prevention of fiber wrapping, high efficiency and energy-saving, strong reliability and, equipped with a specially developed electric control cabinet, not only the auto-control can be realized but also the motor can be made sure to work safely and reliably.Available with various types of installation to simplify the pump station and save the investment.
WQ series submersible sewage pump is mainly used for the municipal works, buildings, industrial sewage and sewage treatment to discharge the sewage, waste water and rainwater containing solids and long fibers.
2)  Characteristic and advantage
1. Most of the impellers with the pump of an aperture below 400 come as a bi-runner impeller and few of them is a multi-blade centrifugal impeller. While most of the impellers with the pump of an aperture 400 and above come as a mixed flow impeller and few of them is a bi-runner impeller. The spacious pump casing runner lets the solids easily passing and the fibers uneasily wrapping so that it is most suitable for discharging sewage and dirt.
2. Two independent single end-face mechanical seals are in-series mounted, with the installation mode as the internal installation mode, and, compared with the external installation mode, the medium is more uneasy to leak and also its sealing friction pair are easier lubricated by the oil in the oil chamber. A special spiral slot or a small seam is used to resist the solid
grains to be deposited on the mechanical seal by the pump to make sure of its stable work. The unique mechanical seal layout mode and bearing combination makes the suspension arm of the shaft short, a heavy rigidity and a small jump, more benefit for reducing the leak from the mechanical seal and extending the life of it.
3. The motor of a protective grade IPX8 works in submerged mode and holds the best cooling effect. The grade F insulation makes the winding bearable to a higher temperature and, compared with common motors, more durable.
4. The perfect combination of the special electric control cabinet, the liquid level floating-ball switch and the protective components carries out the automatic monitor and alarm for
water leak and winding overheat, the protections at shortcircuit, overload, lack-of-phase and voltage-lost cut-off, the accurately auto-controls of start, stop, alternation and minimum
submerged depth of the pump, without need of special persons for looking-after, option at will is available between the selfcoupled reducing start and electronic soft start. All of these
makes sure of safe and reliable use of the pump without any worry.
5. Both motor and hydraulic parts are directly linked together, without need of turning the shaft for centering, easily disassembled and assembled to save the time, benefit for the
site maintenance, reducing the stopped time, saving the cost of repair; simple and compact structure leaves a small volume, only simple lifting equipment is needed, as a special lifting
handler is set on the pump; less land area and the pump can be placed directly in the sewage pond, without need of a special pump house, and the therefore the construction investment
can be saved by over 40.
6. Available with five installation modes for you to choose: auto-coupled, movable hard-pipe, movable soft-pipe, fixed wet type and fixed dry type installation modes.The auto-coupled installation means the connection between the pump and the water-out pipeline is made with the water outlet pipe seat of the auto-coupling, without use of the common fasteners, and, when to separate the pump from the water outlet pipe seat, just place it down along with the guide rod and then lift it, simply enough to get free from worry and trouble and save time.
The submersible sewage pump in the fixed dry type installation not only can replace the old vertical sewage pump but also does not fear of flood submersion, so there is no need of a separate flood-proof facility, benefit for lowering the cost of construction.


3) FAQ

1.  Can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

2.  Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

3.  How long is your warranty?

Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.


WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pump

WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pump




Q: I drive a 99vw jetta and the coolant was leaking from it i took it to a repair shop they said the water pump was bad and that the seals on the water pump where bad that was defiantly where the coolant was leaking from. I replaced the water pump and drove my car this weekend no troubles, then this afternoon my coolant light came on and i put coolant in my car and it just started trickling out i called the repair shop they said it may just be a loose hose or clamp, is this true or am i looking at something worse than the water pump that has to be replaced?? or would that issue have already came up when they where looking for where the leak was coming from before it was repaired? please help
The pump may have indeed been bad. Did the shop put on the new pump or did you do it yourself? If it was done by the shop, take it back and make them fix it correctly. You have already paid them for the work. If you did it yourself, it should be fairly easy to spot where the leak is coming from. It is also rare but possible that the pump you put on was bad out of the box from the parts store. Not likely...but slim possibility. Hopefully it is just a loose clamp or hose.
Q: how do I know my water pump failed. 98 mustang V6 started to leak coolant from the front lower part of the the engine. How do I know for sure my pump is bad? Did refill and kept on leaking as I manage to get home. Little help please!
A leaky radiator could also be the cause of leaking coolant. Sometimes waterpumps rattle as they're dying.
Q: 1995 Ford Contour GL, 2.0L 4Cyl- three water pump failures. I bought the car in 2000 [49,000 miles] and in 2003 [116,000 miles] a leak from the weep hole area was repaired by replacing the pump. In October, 2005 [164,000] another leak from the same place was again repaired by replacing the pump. Just over two years later now, 196,000 miles, and today it's leaking from the same area. Any idea why this would happen? Each time I've replaced the pump, I've not been able to see any damage to it. People talk about impellers breaking, but they've always seemed intact. Maybe it isn't a pump failure so much as a leak for some other reason? Since purchase, the car has run what appears to be hot, in that the temperature gauge, when at operating temps, is only a tick or two from overheating, but since it's in the normal range, I've always assumed it's just a faulty thermostat. It's never overheated except for when the leak has sprung up.Any thoughts? :)
When all these pumps were replaced, were they new pumps or remanufactured pumps? It makes a difference in the quality and longevity. Spring for the new pump, preferably from Ford. The impeller problem was on the 2.5 liter V6 Contour, they are plastic and tend to scatter under load. As far as the gauge goes, it is normal on the four cylinder Contour for the hand to be between the M and the L in normal on the gauge. All of the 4 cylinder Contours are like this and the vehicle is not overheating. There is a TSB from Ford concerning the gauge, the TSB number is 98-21-3, the dealer can pull it up and let you look at it.
Q: Water pump. A drip on the edge of the pump or drip on the ground. Serious concern on which one?
Once okorder
Q: I getting some work done to my like replacing the timing cover gasket, oil pan gasket and the water pump gasket...the mechanic I talked to said I need to replace this as well; my thing is the water pump is fine..should I take his advice?
What a better time to do it unless of course you are selling it this month. Mechanic is right in saving you money in the future.
Q: The water hose hooks from the radiator to the water pump. Does an o-ring go in it? What else could be causing it to leak?
no 0-ring in it ! you either need a new clamp or hose. the cord is probably broke in yours.
Q: I have a 2006 Mitsubishi Raider that I'm pretty sure needs a new water pump. It is still under warranty for another 1000 miles, but the nearest dealer is over 200 miles away, and Mitsubishi says they won't reimburse for work done at a non-Mitsubishi Dealer. I'm trying to figure out if the cost of just paying someone to have it done here in town versus having towed 200 miles and then driving it back, plus the lost cost of missed work.By the way my Mitsubishi Roadside Assistance will tow it to the nearest dealer for free, but last time I did that it was barely worth the hassle of dealing with their very poor contract towers.
Have you asked the dealer to send you the part at least? Call Mitsubishi and ask it that would be possible, you never know. You could send in the old pump and possibly get compensation. Keep your bills. Discuss it with them. Your dealer should provide you with the area Mitsubishi representatives contact information. The prices for those can be expensive. Ask the dealer, service dept, for the labour, how many hrs. to change the pump. They should tell you. Also for the cost of the pump. Add the two together and you have your ans. Join CAA, or AAA, get a gold card, wait two days for the card's towing to take effect, then have it towed in on the card. Done all the time. Or if you have a relative with a Gold card they can have it towed in as long as they are with the car with their card when the tow truck comes.
Q: do you trust the bran?
Point blank, ask the folks at Auto Zone where this water-pump was produced. If it was re-manufactured off-shore leave it on their shelves. I trust you knew these Duralast water-pumps are re-manufactured. All AC-Delco starters, alternators and water-pumps are re-manufactured in the USA. Every part inside the reused housings are factory brand new with parts made here in the US.
Q: I am creating a project where I must pump water to a helmet. If you have any ideas, thoughts, solutions, diagrams, etc. please? thanks
your question is not clear, do you need to build the pump from scratch or you should find one? what is the water flow rate? how high the water need to go? what the helmet has to do with the problem? simplest solution will be to go to the store and buy small hand pump (for fuel).
Q: What's the submersible pump?
Centrifugal pump, a general motor and pump body is one, you can pump the whole pump into the water

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