Non Clogging Submersible Sewage Pump QW Series
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 500 unit/month
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Introduction of Non Clogging Submersible Sewage Pump QW Series
QW, WQ, YW, LW, GW no-clogged sewage pump is a newly developed pump, based on the combination of the advanced technology from abroad and domestic features, which is good at energy-saving, anti-winding, no-clog, automatic installation and automatic control. This pump is excellent in transporting water with solid-particles and long fiber contained.
This pump has introduced special impeller structure and neo mechanical seals, to make it more efficient in delivering solid particles and long fiber contained water. CoMPared with traditional impeller, the new impeller, with spiral-flow type or double-leaf type that has an excellent delivery capacity, together with suitable volute, can improve the performance of the pump, running smoothly without any vibration.
Applications of Non Clogging Submersible Sewage Pump QW Series
Sewage discharging of living plot
Sewage system of municipal works
Sewage system in factory and mine corporation
Waste water discharging of public facility
Unit to other water-discharging system
Features of Non Clogging Submersible Sewage Pump QW Series
1. The impeller adopts particular large channel structure, so the drain capacity has been improved greatly. It can effectively pass the solid grain whose diameter is about 50%of the pump caliber.
2. The balanced rotor part and the proper bearing arrangement have effectively balanced the redial and axial load of pump, so it ensures the unit to run long and steadily with little vibration and low noise.
3. This type pump can adopt different installation forms according to the consumer's requirements: Single-pipe or double-pipe.
4. Mechanical seal adopts the latest material and is made with extra care. So its life is over 8000 hours.
5. The pump can be equipped with liquid-level automatic control cabinet according to the consumer's requirements.
6. The whole machine can be started and stopped automatically according to the changes of level. It doesn't need a special person to guard, so the application is quite convenient and it is easy to realize automatic management.
Note: Case of special temperature, pressure, high erosion etc, should be put forward in advance, so we can provide you more reliable models.
Working Conditions of Non Clogging Submersible Sewage Pump QW Series
Medium temperature: -15~+60
Medium consistency: ≤ 1.3x103kg/m3
Rated speed: 980-2900r/min
Medium ph scope: 5-9
System pressure: ≤ 0.6MPa
Rotation: Clockwise rotation viewed from motor
- Q: I am going to replace the timing belt , tesioner and idler bearing on my 2000 daewoo leganza. I noticed some of the kits have water pumps too. It is likely to break like the timing belt?
- Well the logic is that since you only need to replace the timing belt every 60,000 miles, then you might as well change the water pump, should it fail in between you would end up having to do nearly the same job all over again. always change the water pump if it is driven by the timing belt. That is purely a rule of the trade.
- Q: Our water pump was really warm/hot to the touch, our hot water was more warm than hot, and wouldnt heat up enough to get hot, and it wouldn't turn off. (like when it starts up when you turn on the water,it just kept going,and wouldn't stop) so, because it was hot, and going constantly, we didn't want it to explode, or burn out, so we turned it off, and now I'm hoping that when we turn it back on after it cools, that it'll go back to turning on/off intermittently, instead of constantly. So, after it cools down, will it go back to normal, instead of just constantly going??!?
- I assume you have a water well pump. The experience I have had, is it will come back on once the thermal safety switch cools down. However, I think you still have work here to do because each time this happens, you are shortening the life of your pump. First you need to determine why it ran hot to begin with. Could be lots of reasons, but just to name a few. -Is your water tank in good shape, with the correct air pressure? -Is the tank waterlogged, too old or leaking? -Any leaks in the service in or to the house? -Is your contact switch working properly, clean contacts, good wire, good connections, breaker etc.? -Is there water running somewhere your not aware of? -Last but not least, the check valve and foot valve leading to the well could also be defective. Just my opinion, I hope this helps to get you thinking. Good luck; flip;
- Q: I was driving when my temp gauge shot up all the way so i pulled off the next exit and my car shut off and started smoking i noticed the water pump belt was in shreds and what seemed to be anti freeze fluid and water was everywhere. I'm curious what could have broke maybe a gasket or the waterpump it's self besides just the belt?
- Water pump blew up, lost your radiator fluid and broke a belt. Don't drive it, get it towed to a repair shop.
- Q: what is a submersible well pump?
- lets break it down... submersible- able to be put underwater... well- deep hole that water comes from... pump- sucks the water...
- Q: Does anyone know or can show me a picture of the location of the water pump in the '97 Totota avalon please? I'm trying to replace mine.Please and Thank you :)
- Front of engine block, behind fan and driven usually by the crankshaft.
- Q: the pulley wheel fell off while i was driving and all of the pulleys turn except the two under the water pump pulley. does anyone know if that is supposed to spin by hand or will it only spin when the car is running?
- Your water pump should definately be able to be spun by hand. Generally when a water pump goes, or starts to go, it will leak antifreeze and or you will be able to shake the pulley slightly. Double check and try to spin the water pump again without any belt tension on it. A water pump can go at any time however, if your car has less than like 80,000 miles on it, it's probably fine.
- Q: and how do I get it to work 24 hours a day?and on the pump there is written: 2 A, and on another part: 220-240 Vdoes that mean its wattage is 440-480Watt?
- You are correct Amps x Volts = watts and since there are about 750 watts per Hp then you have a 2/3 Hp motor. Water pumps can be either submerged in the well bore hole or located top side. A top side well pump relies on the air around it to cool the motor. THe motor may not be rated for continuous duty (see name plate on motor) and may only be rated for a limited amount of time it can be run before it needs a cool down period. (Typically motors are rated for continuous duty) Submersible well pumps are located under water in th well and use the water in contact with the motor housing to cool them. Cooling is thus related to the water flow around the motor and the availability of water. Normal well pump usage for a home is for brief periods when water is actually being used and to maintain system pressure. So unless you are constantly watering your lawn your pump should cycle on and off as necessary. Continuous running is a sign that there is a problem such as a leak, worn pump not achieving proper pressure, or pressure switch setting or similar issue not allowing proper shutdown. If you have a submersible well pump it will be very difficult to tell when it is running unless you can hear the motor contactor open and close or have an indicator light. A properly operating water system will pressurize an accumulator storage tank (water pumped into a tank which contains an air bladder that can be compressed). Once the tank is pressurized the pump shuts off and stays off until the pressure in the tank drops. Pressure drops when you use water or if the water leaks back into the well. At which time the pump runs again and tops off the tank. So in a properly operating system shutting off the well at night won't save you much because the pump should not be running. However if you have a leak and the pump is running a lot you can secure the power to the pump at night until you can get the system repaired
- Q: The pump works and water goes to the house from the reserve tanks but there can be long delays before it cuts in after mains pressure is lost. After it stops the pressure gauge falls back slowly to zero. Pressure vessel is a sphere has a valve on top. Any suggestions ?
- The guage is probably broken, but that is mostly for reference for setting your start/stop switch. Now, first off I'd check your bladder tank. A bad bladder tank will still give you some pressure but causes the pump to run almost constantly. To test that, there is a bicycle looking air valve sticking out of the bladder tank. Push a key or something in it as if you were to let air out of a tire. If any water comes out, your bladder is bad and has to be replaced. If you have an older style deep well, like a well house where the pump is accessible, check the switch, (little black box attached to the pump). There are two screws that can be turned. One sets the pressure the pump will turn off at and the other adjusts the minimum pressure you want for the water to turn back on and fill your tank. A lot of people go 20/40, I run mine at 30/50. Much more than that and you can run into problems, especially if you have cpvc pipes. They will weaken at the elbows and 60 psi of water can eventually make pin hole leaks. This is from personal experience. You will need a working gauge to set this. If the bladder is not your problem, email me and I'll give you more details on how to set your pump if you need it. Or, you can buy preset switches at your local hardware for $20 and just swap it out. In that case, do not mess with the adjustment screws.
- Q: Why should the water pump be opened in time after the pump is started?
- The circulating water pump outlet valve is closed when starting, normal after the water outlet valve is opened, I found that, with the valve opening, the current is slowly sinking, you tell me why?, and the other is the opposite of the pump (with the valve opening current increases).
- Q: i need to change my water pump on my vw 1990 gti. the more details and/or pictures the better or links i can go to to show me
- The 1990 4 cylinder was before they ran the pump off the timing belt, so it is still V-belt driven, and it is not necessary to touch the timing belt. Since it is belt driven, you should expect it to be near the passenger side of the engine, but it actually bolts to the front of the engine, near the bottom. In the linked image, they have included the housing, which you see bolts to the side of the block with an O ring seal. It is recommended you remove this housing, so that you can more easily get at all the small bolts holding the water pump to the housing. But there is no reason not to reuse the old housing. This also has the thermostat in it, so replace that at the same time. You may be able to leave the hoses attached if you are working on a lift, from below. The power steering pump may be in the way and need to be lowered. Take the passenger side wheel off. If you have to get at it from the top, it may be much harder, because the AC mounting plate would need to be removed and the head gets in the way, but also possible. Set aside a whole day, just to make sure you have enough time to finish if this is your first one. But you could probably do it a second time in about 3 hours.
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Non Clogging Submersible Sewage Pump QW Series
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 500 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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