Single-suction Horizontal Boiler Feed Water Multistage Pump

Single-suction Horizontal Boiler Feed Water Multistage Pump System 1

Single-suction Horizontal Boiler Feed Water Multistage Pump

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 1000 unit/month

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Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:	export plywood case for each single-suction horizontal boiler feed water multistage pump
Delivery Detail:	usual one week (according to your order quality)

Specifications

Horizontal Multistage Centrifugal Pump

1.Multistage centrifugal
2.Inlet and outlet are both at horizontal
3.small vibration

Overview

•TSWA Multi-stage Centrifugal Electric Water Pump is developed according to our national public security's regulation for the field of high building and fire fighting.

•It is suitable for conveying water or physical and chemical properties similar to the other liquid water, also for mine drainage and factory building, city water supply, etc.

Main Material

•Casing: HT200, SS304, SS316

•Impeller: SS304, SS316, Copper, HT200

Features

•Compact and reasonable structure

•Shaft seal can be mechanical seal or packing seal

•Advanced hydraulic model to feature high efficiency and little energy consumption

•Single stage coupling structure: operation performance is high rotary speed, low noise, quick suction

•Adopt energy saving water conservancy model.

Specifications

•Flow Rate: 3.75~650m3/h

•Head: 19~700m

•Driven way: Electrical Motor, Diesel Engine

Q: I drive a 1995 Acura integra ls model I'm mechanically inclined just not enough to do a headgasket (more patience wise) my car loses coolant once in every 3 weeks it starts to over heat. I don't have white smoke coming out of the exhaust or milky oil. Everything else runs smooth on my car. I've head it pressure tested and every thing else checks out so I'm kind of lost. All hoses are fine and not leaking and there is no coolant leaks showing up on the ground. Any ideas?: You should have a cylinder leak down test performed if you suspect a head gasket problem. If the water pump were leaking you'd see traces of coolant seepage at the bottom of the timing belt cover, either to the right or left of the crankshaft pulley. An easy way to check for a head gasket is to slip the smog check guy a few bucks and he can stick the probe in your tail pipe to see if your exhaust has any traces of H2O in it. If your water pump is leaking I'd advise replacing your timing belt as well as tensioner, idler and any seals that maybe leaking since t-belt removal will be necessary to replace the water pump. Good luck and hopes this helps.

Q: Hey all--I just paid $900 at the Volkswagen dealership to get my timing belt, water pump, rollers, and air pump replaced. Is that a good deal? Also, how does the timing belt replacement relate to performance? I noticed my car was a little faster than before (maybe it's because I was driving another car for 2 days).: It makes your car not die. It prevents damage to the engine if you either overheat it because your water pump's died, or damage to the valves and lifters if the timing belt breaks. This is exactly the peventive maintenance the car needs to continue providing reliable transportation for you. I've heard some horror stories from people who have neglected to do this maintenance. They often need a whole new engine, or if they're lucky, just a new head for their engine. $4000 later they're fine. So yeah, $900 was a bargain.

Q: Ok, so I have a 1997 3.8 liter ford mustang. I was driving home from work the other day, when temp gauge started to go up. I brought it to mechanic, and he said it was a bad water pump, due to bad antifreeze. So I am getting a new pump, and an antifreeze flush. My question is that since it overheated, will there be any damage to the engine? The temperature gauge never hit the red, and smoke never came out. I had to drive it for approx 15-20 miles when it started to overheat, and the temp gauge was bouncing from hot to normal.: Overheating your engine is never good , but are you certain it was actually overheated or just a loose wire, faulty thermostat or other giving erratic readings.. If the Engine did not SMELL hot, if the engine performance did not change, if it did not overheat to the extreme...and quickly, it was probably NOT the water pump. Too, it probably did not damage the engine if it was overheated only to the degree that you say. I would wonder about the water pump scenario. Is it possible that you were in extended stop and go traffic in hot weather, and/or your radiator fluid was low and basically getting air in the system.? I hope your mechanic is competent and honest, and the problem was as he said. Usually there is NO Question in the symptoms that the Engine is overheated (regardless of gauge reading). The OIL would get very thin and HOT as well. Just wondering. Good luck.. P.S. I just read Avatar Country Boy's response after I submitted mine. He has some good advice too. I would add that if the engine ever overheats and loses water (or needs water) DONT EVER POUR WATER INTO A HOT OVERHEATED ENGINE !!!!! If you got the radiator cap off in the first place without getting scalded or WORSE, if you try to add water it WILL essentially EXPLODE back in your face as it hits super heated cooling system parts, and most likely crack your engine block, and/or warp your engine heads...serious engine damage. Instead, let it cool completely Again...Good luck..

Q: I am having water shortage problems and wonder if there is more I can do to maintain the health of my pump motor , pressure switch , and diaphram tank , if I run one outlet in or out of house , it only takes another spigot being used or a toilet flush to cause the system to run dry .I then have to reprime pump to have water or pump will run dry until it overheats ,: The okorder /

Q: I think the water pump on my 40 hp mercury outboard 2 stroke is not working, the hole witch usually pours out all the water that was used to cool the engine does not pour any water at all. Is this a problem with the water pump? If not what?: requires visual inspection of the water pump. actually, checking the telltale outlet first might be preferable.

Q: I went to have my car inspected for a leak at a friendly garage I know. They said I need a new water pump and in the mean time just keep the levels always checked and filled. Is it safe to drive for a while or can the pump totally fail and overheat the engine. As far as I know it's just leaking at this stage, the pulley and belts are fine.: It's safe as long as the levels are full and the pump doesn't fail. Here's the bad news - you have NO idea when that pump is going to go bad. Recommending to drive it that way is a dumb idea. Yes you can do it, no it's not a good idea. If your water pump decides to lock up now you popped or shredded a belt causing extra damage not too mention your vehicle overheating if you keep it running. You might get lucky, but I strongly suggest you stop driving the vehicle until it is repaired. It's asking for trouble.

Q: For what reasons can water pump in car break? Thanks: The 2.7 and it's water pump are simply a problem waiting to happen. Poor design.

Q: I have a 1999 Chevy Cavalier Z24 2.4 engine and the water pump needs replaced how much would this cost me to take to a garage to have fixed?: good okorder and see what is up with the price. The estimator sectrion may be able to give some idea of what a water pump sells for and the labor costs. One major problem with all of the front engine front wheel drive cars is the cost of replacing a water pump can be 2 to 4 times as much in labor as the front engine rear wheel drive vehicles of the 70a and 80s for example my suburban was a total of 200 dollars not so with the cavalier The water pump itself was not too bad but the labor getting to it sucks. 104 to 199 dollars for a waterpump and 627 to 800 dollars for the labor could bring you a bill for 732 to 999 dollars lets hope its the cheaper of the estimates

Q: Here are specifications for two water pump sets. I would like to know which one will have more vertical suction.Pump 1:1.5 hp, 98cc Engine, 4 - Strokes RPM 3600 (Engine RPM), Petrol Fuel, Fuel Consumption 700 ml/hour, Delivery (horizontal) 50m, Inlet / Outlet Port (Dia) 1.5x1.5 inches, Output Capacity 48000 Litres / Hour.Pump 2:3.3hp, 163 cc Engine, 4 - Strokes RPM 3600 (Engine RPM), Petrol Start amp; Kerosene Run, Fuel Consumption 700 ml/hour, Delivery (horizontal) 26m, Inlet / Outlet Port (Dia) 2x2 inches Output Capacity 36000 Litres / Hour.which one should I go for.: The first one appears to have a higher flow rating but neither gives a head figure, which is the maximum height it can work to above the pump. Lift from below a pump is limited to 32ft on any form of water pump; that is the limit water will rise to with a total vacuum above it. A normal pump cannot pull a perfect vacuum so working lift will be somewhat less. The practical limit depends on the pump head in use and it's actual head limit; the total height from the pickup point to the delivery point count as working head. Any kind of centrifugal pump or one which cannot also pump air perfectly will need a foot valve at the base of the inlet pipe and a priming system to fill the pipe and pump body with water before the pump is started. If you expect the water level to be more than 10 - 15ft down, you would be better off with a submersible pump; the only limit then is the head rating which can be just about anything. Get a suitably rated petrol or diesel generator as well (3x the pump power rating) if it must operate independently of mains power.

Q: My water pump went out. I had a new water pump put on my accord a year and a month ago. Since then have driven 5-6,000 miles in a small city town. Does this makes sense. Could it be a cheaper water pump was put on my car and it went out. The person who worked on it is a mechanic who does a bunch of cars on the side. Last time he worked on my brakes, I had to bring it back because he put cheap ones on.Can I call this guy back? What could I say?: usually 7-10 years so at 5000 miles take it back

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