WQ Cast Iron Submersible Sewage Pump
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- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
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- Supply Capability:
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- Q: I took out the thermostat, filled coolant level to upmost, my car still overheats, it doesnt leak ne where.How can I tell if the water pump is workin?
- Overheating normally would require a failed water pump. Some liquid leaking out of the weep hole normally just indicates that the pump is going to fail. Does the water pump make a clicking sound? An abnormal pump sound also is an indicator of a pump that is starting to fail. Verify that the coolant is full. If full, check the fan. If the fan is not turning on between 185 to 225, the temperature sensor may be bad. Also verify that the thermostat is installed in the correct direction. If installed backwards, the engine will overheat quickly. (This is an easy mistake.) Good luck!
- Q: I have taken off the fan, and radiator, and ect, and i'm down to this silver circle thing-the fan clutch i believe and black circualr piece that connects to the actual water pump. I need help getting the quot;fan clutchoff. I tried using a wrench and wrenching on this peice between that and the black piece, but i cant stop the black piece from moving. I tried this site called pelican or w.e, but they dont tell u how to do that. I'm stuck, plz help!
- You need a viscous cooling fan spanner (32mm) and something to hold the water pump still. The cooling fan has a left hand thread by the way and will need a sharp blow with a rubber mallet to shift it. BMW have special tools for this job which are 11 5 030 and 11 5 040. Viscous cooling fan spanners are available in shops and I dare say you can find or make something to brace the water pump bolts. A large screwdriver or breaker bar have been known to work. Whichever method you use watch your knuckles!
- Q: This only happens while I am running water. I can hear the pressure switch clicking on and off the whole time I am doing dishes, laundry, ... Since it is only when the water is running I believe that means it is not a leak. I changed the check valve and that did not fix the problem. I checked the pressure in the tank and it seemed to be around the 20/40 mark. Any other ideas anyone?Thanks.
- It sounds like the bladder in your pressure tank has ruptured.
- Q: My water stopped working and my tank emptied. I replaced the pressure switch and the gauge. It still didn't work. The well is about 110'. I pulled the pump and replaced it (1/2 HP, 10 gpm, 2-wire). It still doesn't work. The old pump was 15 years old. The one before only lasted 7 years. The water has a lot of sediment. I have never done this before, but it seemed straightforward enough. The wires on the pump were not differentiated in any way (same color). Could I have put the wires together incorrectly? Could I have put the switch in wrong? It doesn't click on when the breaker is turned on. What else could be wrong? Could the breaker be bad? It wasn't kicked out.
- A two wire pump usually has a 120 volt motor. The neutral wire from the motor goes to the neutral wire at the disconnect switch. The other wire from the motor goes to one terminal screw of the pressure switch. The disconnect switch hot wire goes to the terminal screw right next to the first one. ( either the two terminals on the left or the two on the right. ) Sometimes people will switch the neutral wire as well. If the voltage is good, pressure switch contacts are clean - like no bugs having been smashed or caught up in between, then you might expect a break in the wire or the wire splice at the motor wire connection. If your old pump burned out you may have needed new wire also. Sometimes the wire will burn apart inside the insulation and make a bubble. If your old wire was in good shape, or you replaced it, you should have used a submersible splice to connect to the motor wires. Crimp on wire connectors should be crimped tight. Every now and then I find one that didn't get crimped on one side. Rubber tape followed by plastic tape over that splice is good. Some people like the plastic tubes with compression ends for a splice covering.
- Q: I think the water pump on my 40 hp mercury outboard 2 stroke is not working, the hole witch usually pours out all the water that was used to cool the engine does not pour any water at all. Is this a problem with the water pump? If not what?
- Well to start of, and two, A 25 hp does not have a water pump, like a car, it has am impeller driven by the out board motors gear system
- Q: I currently have a gould 1/3 horse jet water pump and a rusted pressure tank that I would like to replace. There are two bathrooms, both with showers, 2 bathroom sinks and the kitchen sink, as well as the washer. What horse power should I have for 5 faucets and what size pressure tank would be sufficient? The shower in the upstairs bathroom hardly has pressure at all with the current pump and pressure tank. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
- your right on what it could, once i also have seen a vacuum hose and other hoses like evap hooked into coolant system boy some dude fried his face when he was stupid enough to pull the cap without backing on the evap one it exploded as he was working on it. You can rent a block tester from autozone the dye will turn green or yellow if the head is warped or the gasket is bad. Don't suck up coolant with it while the cap is off just the gasses it uses to determine. A bad water pump causes overheating overall usally or starts leaking, a bad thermostat getting stucked closed will cause overheating. Oh I have even seen cars where someone pulled the thermostat out to cover that up. Anyway, Stucked closed, Which would cause it to overheat as you drive or it is completly warmed up. You can feel both hoses to check it if it is opening and alowing coolant through the radiator.
- Q: What is a 1 inch water pump?
- The outlet is 1 inches (25MM) of the water pump
- Q: Hello online mechanics! You guys have saved me a lot of money on my car, so now I have a new question! I have a 97 Ford Contour and lately since it's been cool in NJ, I've been hearing a tapping coming from the timing belt cover, but when the car warms up, there's no sound. I took the car to my mechanic and he says that I need to have the timing belt replaced, the pulleys adjusted, and the water pump changed. The price for doing the timing belt was $400 (including adjusting the pulleys) and $700 for the timing and the water pump. My question is ; do I need to do the water pump? He says that if you do the timing belt, that you should do the water pump too, but should I if there's nothing wrong with it ( as far as I know) and I'm not looking for the added expense? I thought if it ain't broke don't fix it still applies to things, or am I mistaken? Thanks guys gals! In these tough economic times, I'm not looking to spend any more than is necessary!
- make sure you have coolant in,or a couple month with out would burn the seals,sound like lifters as its goes away when hot (expand) try buying lukas oil stabilizer as it thicker and also lube better and run smother
- Q: I am replacing the water pump and want to know exactly where the two o-rings go
- There are several rubber seals on a water pump. The biggest irregular shaped seal is obviously for the main portion of the pump (this can not be misinterpreted for something else). The next in size is the o-ring for the thermostat. And 2 additional O-rings (one smaller than the other) are for the return pipes. While removing/pulling out the pump, take care that the pipes do not get pulled outward by the pump. And when putting in the pump just gingerly align the pipes to the holes in the pump and you are good to go.
- Q: I have a 1990 GMC K1500 Sierra and about 1 week ago I went to check the anti-freeze level. I noticed it was a tiny bit down. So I look down at the lower radiator hose and it had a slow drip. So the next day I changed the anti-freeze, New thermostat, and a New lower radiator hose. So I thought it was fine but yesterday I went to go check the anti-freeze and the level was down. I look at the lower radiator hose and it has a slow drip again. The hose I replace was Brand New. Could this be a water pump? I did notice a tiny bit of anti-freeze on the water pump. Or what could this be or do I have to change the hose again?
- It depends a lot on the engine in the car, and knowing the year would really help. $600 is outrageously expensive for the 2.2L engine and outrageously cheap for the 2.4L engine. You can replace your own on the 2.2, with a little help from somebody experienced. I definitely don't recommend trying water pump replacement on the 2.4L engine! No timing belt on either. If the leak is slow enough you can carry conventional antifreeze and purified water (no tap water!) and refill every morning and every afternoon. When you are adding more than a quart of the combined liquids (either premix or manually use half of each) you will have to come up with an alternate plan. As thebax says, stop leak won't work on a water pump.
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WQ Cast Iron Submersible Sewage Pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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