Cast Iron Submersible Sewage Pump

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Submersible Sewage Pump

WQ series submersible sewage pump is mainlycomprised of three parts : pump, mechanical seals and motor. Pump is at thelower part of sewage pump, and the structure is impeller and shell. Motorlocated at the upper part of motor pump, which is the single phase or threephase electric motor. Mechanical seals are between pump and motor and it is akind of double end mechanical seals, “O” rings are applied in all static jointsof the submersible pump.

Pump body:Cast Iron

Impeller:Cast iron

Motor:Closed, Externally ventilated

Insulation class:B(Class F if required)

Protection class: IP68

Duty:Continuously rated

Mechanical seal:Φ12, Φ16 ceramicsteatite/graphite

Shaft: Stainless steel AISI 420

The normal power standard is220v,50HZ,single phase

Three phase 220v/380v, 50HZ, 220V/460V,60HZ

Single phase 230V, 240V, 127V,110V,115V/60HZ

Models are available on request.

Q:I've been noticing a difference in the temperature gage lately. The quot;change oillight has also been coming on and I just had an oil change not even a month ago, and the car isn't even due back for at least another month. I noticed there's a green/blue liquid in my driveway today, too. I looked under the car and something is leaking or dripping around the passengers side front wheel. More so the passenger-middle side. I've been told it could be the water pump.: If it's not a heater hose leaking your most likely right that the water pump is bad and loeaking coolant out of the weap hole,which is their so you know it's bad and needs replaced , i believe you should be able to have a new water pump labor for around $300, bucks.Don't put it off to long or you might blow the head gasket.You don't wont to do take.

Q:I have a cabin cruiser and I recently took it out of storage and had it de winterized. Now everything seems to work except for the fresh water pump for the sink, shower and toilet. Does this type of pump need to be primed? If so how do you prime it? Thank you for the help.: Those pumps are usually self priming.. either you have a PLUGGED LINE or the water pump froze in the cold and it needs to be replaced... but they are cheap.

Q:How can the pump be stationary?: Rusty, turn with your hands to see the situation, the two bearings filled with lubricating oil.

Q:Intelligent pump controller, water is full water transfer automatically shows the next pool of water shortage, what is the matter?: The intelligent controller of water pump is full of water and automatically shows the shortage of water in the lower pool. The reason is that the sensor is out of order or the line is out of contact. First of all, make sure that the upper limit of your controller is normally open or normally closed. When the upper limit is reached, does this point change? If the original upper limit position is normally open, check the switch and pump insulation.A pump is used to increase the pressure of a liquid or gas, the flow conveying machinery, and "jump" or "flow" is a homonym, is a transliteration of the English pump, is a device used to move liquids, gases or special fluid medium, which is reactive to the fluid machinery. The heart of man and animal can be said to be a natural pump, which carries blood to all parts of the body.

Q:I'm looking to buy a used 2001 Protege. The car is nearing 75000mi, but the owner has not changed the timing belt or the water pump. I found out that it is recommended to change the timing belt at 60000mi, but couldn't find anything on the water pump. Realistically, when would I need to replace these, and any idea how much it would cost?Thanks!: That could have either the 1.6 liter or 2.0 liter engine. My information shows that if you have the 1.6 liter, at least you don't have to worry about bending valves against pistons if the belt breaks -- you'll just be stuck out on the road until you can get it towed and fixed. Not so with the 2.0 which is an interference engine. So if you DO have the 2.0, pay attention -- you don't want an expensive breakdown! You're on borrowed time at 75K. For both engines, Mazda recommends that you replace the timing belt every 60K miles. Gates (a major replacement supplier) seems to think these belts will go 105K. Since it's a factory belt, stick with 60K. As for the water pump, it's often one of those while you're already in there sort of things when you're doing a timing belt. 60K makes it a tougher call, especially with the better quality of water pump bearings and seals. If your interval were 80K ~ 100K as is true on some cars, I'd say go for it without blinking. As cheap as it'll be (it's really just the price of the pump), and it was my set of wheels, I'd do it anyway, even at 60K, if it needed to be pulled to do the belt.

Q:I bought a new water pump for my 89 S10 Blazer with the 4.3 V6. The guy at Autozone wanted to know if I wanted a standard one or the heavy duty. I bought the heavy duty one because it was only $5.00 more. Are they just built stronger or do they actually move more water?: Same thing, may have a cast impeller instead of aluminum. You wont benifit from it at all, and even if it did move more water it really wouldnt do you any good anyway, its not necessary

Q:It stops and every few minutes and when it stops, it sounds like water is running.: Ok lets go down the check list. 1) Is your cut off switch working good? Turning on and off at proper set pressure. (I don't know what you may have yours adjusted to. Mine is on at 70 off at 95.) 2) Is your expansion tank (or pressure tank) water logged? Knock on it. Does it sound full or partially full. Full is bad. You will need to shut off the water pump, close off any outgoing ports to the rest of the house, open the drain valve nearest that tank, and press your finger into the shraider valve at the top (the thing that looks like a tire stem valve). Drain the tank only. Then turn the water back on. 3) Do you have water softeners hooked up? Listen closely to the discharge tube. (this may be where it is coming from). IF you hear a leaking it is because the valve spring inside and washers need to be replaced. 4) do you have any other whole house filters? If so check the discharge tubes of them. 5) Do you have a reverse osmosis filter? IF so this is supposed to drain and you will hear it constantly. 6) Look for any water puddles 7) IF all these fail, then replace your water pump.

Q:Every year my family spends a week on a house boat at Lake Powell where it can get extremely hot in the day time. I'd like to build a mist system using pvc pipes and mist spray heads to help cool us down.I'm not sure what kind of water pump to buy? I've looked at different kinds from submersible to non-submersible, all with different amounts of PSI and GPM. I am not familiar with water pumps and could use some community insight.I want to make sure the pump I get does not burn out because of the back pressure it will get due to the mist heads only allowing a little water to escape at a time.I imagine my mist system would have 8 - 12 heads, reaching no more then 30 feet from water source to the end.Any pointers? Thanks!: I am assuming your water source will be the lake …. I would be looking at a submersible pump possibly a pond pump but you need to know what the “lift” is going to be …from the point where you string the mister to the pump {possibly a 15 foot lift} and a pump that will give you at least 25psi. Because you are going to have back pressure, the submersible will reduce the risk of burn out. Also you need to build a simple enclosed container this pump can sit in, with at least a 4”water inlet hole covered with mosquito netting, nylon hosiery, or something to filter the water….otherwise you will constantly be removing the mister heads to clean

Q:I took my car to a repair shop today, cause it was overheating,After looking at it for a few minutes the mechanic told me that it was a water pump problem.They quoted me a price of $276 to totally replace itI called around to my local auto zone stores and found out that the actuall pump cost for a new pump was $39 dollars, and I can get rebuilt pumps for 19 bucks, Is it that labor intensive that it would take so long to put in a 39 dollar part for over 200 bucks labor. Is that a fair deal, or am I getting ripped off.Additional Details, I didn't let them do the job yet, I took the vehicle home and just parked it in my driveway.: It depends but when you go to a shop they usually will double the cost of the part and then the labor goes off of book price. I would never suggest a rebuilt water pump when it only saves you a few bucks.

Q:All the water to my house comes from the river close by - via a 1500kw surface pump, into a large pressurised tank. If there is ever any kind of blockage in the pipe - or if it freezes ...this causes the pump to run - 'dry' - which eventually burns out the motor. I have lost 2 pumps so far because of running dry - and they are very expensive.I would like to fit some kind of automatic cut-out - that will ALWAYS stop the pump running after 15 minutes or perhaps less - as that is ALL the time it needs - if the water is flowing freely - to fill the pressurised tank. I feel sure such a thing must exist - but I do not know what it is called or where to buy one. Does anyone know of a 'switch' of this kind? And where to look for one? What could I put into google to do a search - for suppliers and prices, please?: There are pressure switches that have a low water cut out on them.If the pressure drops too low the switch will turn the pump off.This however my not be a 100% cure.If you used just enough water to turn the pump on and then shut the flow of water off and the pump was not pumping water for the reasons you stated it would continue to run and not build up enough pressure to turn it off.If you wanted to do some sort of timer you could contact an electrician and ask about a timer that could be acctivated when the pump comes on. I am not aware of any thing on the market made for this but a good electrician would know where to get the right components to do this.

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