Wear Resistant Metal Lined Slurry Pump For Mining

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 set

Supply Capability:: 100 set/month

Inquire Now

Add to My Favorites

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Specifications

China Manufacturer
Abrasion & corrosion resistant
AH,HH,M,G series
Design and select pump for projects
Different pump parts

Slurry Pump For Mining

Slurry Pump For Mining Feature:

1) Cantilevered, horizontal, centrifugal, single stage

2) Widely application: the slurry pumps are designed for handling abrasive, high density slurries in the metallurgical, mining, coal, power, building material and other industrial departments.

3) Long bearing life: The bearing assembly is with large diameter shaft and short overhang.

4) Wear resistant and anti-abrasion wet parts: The wet parts can be made of hard metal (26-28% Chrome alloy) or different rubber. They are completely interchangeable with AH series pumps. More materials are also available.

5) Easily replaceable liners: Liners are bolted to the casing.

6) Simple maintenance throat-bush: the mating face of the throat bush is tapered, so the wear is reduced and removal is simple.

7) Easy adjustment of impeller: An impeller adjustment mechanism is provided below the bearing housing.

8) High efficiency and high head design are also available.

9) Centrifugal seal, mechanical seal and packing seal are available.

10) Welcome OEM

11) ISO 9001-2008,CE

Q: does anyone know how to remove the water pump on an 84 corvette its killing me: Step 1. Drain the anitifreeze, the fluids in the radiator, you will find a drain plug on the bottom of the radiator. Dont trash this fluid as its harmful to the environment or reuse the fluid. 2. Disconnect the radiator hoses to the radiator and to the water pump. 3. Remove the radiator and fan shroud and transmission lines, it unbolts from the top. 4. Remove the bolts from the fan, remove the fan. 5. Loosen the altenator, A/C and power steeering pump enough to remove the belts. 6.Remove the 4 bolts holding the water pump to the engine, remove the water pump. 7. Let the water dry and clean where the water pump was as you will need a clean dry surface to apply the gaskets to. 8. Put the 4 bolts in the new water pump, put the gaskets on the toward engine side on the four bolts and install the new water pump. I dont know what the torque specs are, just dont over tighten and enough to break off a bolt. 9. Put the belts back on and tighten, reinstall the fan, the radiator and fan shroud and reinstall the hoses. Reinstall the transmission lines. Fill the radiator with anitifreez water mixture. 10. Start up the engine and allow the engine to warm up, keep the radiator cap off to detect the fill level. Fill when warm to about 1/2 inch to the top is a good level/Reinstall the cap. Finish

Q: my sump pump keeps filling with sewer water. i cant figure out why or where it could be coming from. and the smell is awful.: The only way you can have actual sewer water in your sump pump is if there is a broken pipe that is leading to the sewer and broke. It would have to penetrate and saturate the ground, then go all the way into the soil under the foundation and enter your drainage system under the basement floor. It then would run back to the pit containing your sump pump which would pump it back up through the pipe and start it all over again. If you have a septic tank the same pipe could be leaking, the tank might have a crack in it, or if you have had a massive amount of rain the field might be swamped and the water is following the pipe back into the house. If on a municipal sewer the municipality is generally responsible from the house to the street and you are responsible from the foundation back into the house. If it is septic system, you are completely responsible for all repairs. First thing to do is decide which system you have and call them if it is sewer system, call a plumber if you are on septic.

Q: One repair shop on the phone says I will need new water pump, coolant flush and *850.00. On the other hand the dealer says I may need tow other drive belts (alternator +). Second dealer says I may need a water pump! I do not wish to get stuck with extra costs! any one with experience?: Read your manual. Chances are your camry has treated you very well. Do the same for it. Yes, get a water Pump. It is not that expensive.

Q: Our water pump was really warm/hot to the touch, our hot water was more warm than hot, and wouldnt heat up enough to get hot, and it wouldn't turn off. (like when it starts up when you turn on the water,it just kept going,and wouldn't stop) so, because it was hot, and going constantly, we didn't want it to explode, or burn out, so we turned it off, and now I'm hoping that when we turn it back on after it cools, that it'll go back to turning on/off intermittently, instead of constantly. So, after it cools down, will it go back to normal, instead of just constantly going??!?: I assume you have a water well pump. The experience I have had, is it will come back on once the thermal safety switch cools down. However, I think you still have work here to do because each time this happens, you are shortening the life of your pump. First you need to determine why it ran hot to begin with. Could be lots of reasons, but just to name a few. -Is your water tank in good shape, with the correct air pressure? -Is the tank waterlogged, too old or leaking? -Any leaks in the service in or to the house? -Is your contact switch working properly, clean contacts, good wire, good connections, breaker etc.? -Is there water running somewhere your not aware of? -Last but not least, the check valve and foot valve leading to the well could also be defective. Just my opinion, I hope this helps to get you thinking. Good luck; flip;

Q: Do it yourself steps: If you're go to attempt this buy a manual. You have take apart the entire front of the engine. Remove the timing belt, just to get to the water pump. The timing belt runs the water pump. It's not a job for someone who has to ask how to do this on answers. Get a professional mechanic. This is from a 35 yr vet. of the garage.

Q: 30kW what is the flow rate of the pump?: Estimated traffic: Q = nP/ (9.8H), =70%*30/ (9.8H), =2.14/H (m^3/s)It is estimated that the efficiency of the water pump unit n=70%, power P to kW as a unit, the head H to m as a unit, you go to check the head H is how many meters, into the formula can be considered the flow rate is how many cubic meters per second.

Q: Okay my well water pump keeps turning on and off, i can hear it click on and off. Then the water stops running completely! What is wrong with it?? It has been doing this since last night.: You have what is called a waterlogged pump system. As Gordon said, all in one sentence, most domestic water pump systems operate by using the water they pull up from the ground to compress the air that's already in the resevoir tank either in your basement or back room. The standard working pressure limits are 20 lbs. on/40 lbs. off, or 30 lbs. on/50 lbs. off. The water is pumped in until the air is compressed to 40 psi., then the pressure switch shuts it down. When you draw water off by turning on a tap somewhere in the home and it eventually gets down to 20 or 30 lbs, whichever your system is set on, the switch calls for more pressure and the pump kicks back on. In older resevoir systems where air and water met, under pressure, eventually the air is absorbed by the pressure until there's no room left for air to be pressurized and the pump tank becomes waterlogged. If you have what is called a bladder tank, there is supposed to be a rubber film stretched across the tank somewhere near the middle to keep the air and the water separated, If that bladder bursts for whatever reason, eventually, you wind up with a more expensive older style water resevoir tank. You can repressurize these tanks, by turning off the electricity to the pump and turning on the house taps. Let them run a good long time, then shut them off, put some air back in the tank via the fixture on top, close everything back up and turn on the system. Let it prime itself and pressurize itself, it should be close to being right, if not right on. Or you can have a new tank installed.

Q: When the pump is running with frequency conversion, the instantaneous power is greater than the power frequency operation, and the actual flow and lift are less than the power frequency. When running, the efficiency is very low. Why?: Variable frequency pump running normally, its flow and lift is lower than the power frequency operation, that is for sure. The so-called power frequency operation is full speed operation, of course, the head and flow is the highest.Frequency conversion is mainly to save power and reduce the running loss of equipment. The so-called efficiency, but also by the correct selection, the actual pump head and flow as close as possible, the actual working conditions for the best.

Q: Even when all water is shut off in the camper, my water pump keeps running. Even when the tank is completely empty. Does anyone know what is causing this?: I might be miss-understanding your question. If you have no water in the tank then the pump will run all the time because you won't build enough pressure in the system to shut it off. There should be a switch to turn it off manually. If your system has water in it and pump still won't shut off then it could be several different things: 1. Pump is bad and leaking internally... do you have good pressure at the faucet? 2. There should be a pressure cut-out switch somewhere near the pump. This switch should shutoff the pump when the ideal pressure is reached and prevent the pump from over pressurizing the system. Make sure it is not stuck closed. (May have to remove to test) Check for continuity across the terminals with pressure with the pressure on and off. If it doesn't' change... replace. 3. You could have a leak somewhere in the system not allowing the system to build pressure. 4. There may be a pressure relief valve somewhere in the system that is stuck open and dumping your pressure back into the suction side of the pump. Good Luck!

Q: My well water pump runs constantly. The manual says it should kick off at 50 psi, it only gets to 48 (moves to 45 rather quickly, slow to 48). Water isn't an issue. Turned off all water to house, and still gets to 48, so I believe I can exclude leak somewhere in the house.One place I called said it could be a bit of grit in the jet pump when I called. This seems like it could cost big bucks. Could I suggest for the service man to check anything else?: You probably have a problem with your pressure tank. If it is the bladder type it could be broken. If it isn't it may need compressed air added. A faulty pressure tank causes the pump to run constantly every time water is turned on in the house. You need to get the tank repaired if possible or replaced. Failure to do so promptly will soon burn out the pump from overwork. If it runs even when water is not being used in the house then this is not the answer to your question. But if it goes on every time you flush a toilet or use just a little water it probably is what is wrong.

Send your message to us

*Email

*TEL

*Quantity

*Unit