• Water Pumps Serie Submersible Sewage Pumps From China On Sale System 1
  • Water Pumps Serie Submersible Sewage Pumps From China On Sale System 2
  • Water Pumps Serie Submersible Sewage Pumps From China On Sale System 3
Water Pumps Serie Submersible Sewage Pumps From China On Sale

Water Pumps Serie Submersible Sewage Pumps From China On Sale

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
100 set/month

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1.Specifications

1)High performance
2)Mechanical seal
3)Cast iron impeller or bronze impeller
4)Lower vibration water pump
5)Large flow

2.Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:

export wooden cases

Delivery Detail:

within 30 days once receipt of 30% T/T prepayment

BPO Irrigation Centrifugal Split Water Pump

3.FEATURES

BPO series single-stage double-suction open type centrifugal pump self-researched by the Company after absorbed advanced technology of similar products and combined application requirement of various customers. The series pump adopts excellent hydraulic model, wider type spectrum and better structure. Pump casing is produced by special machine tool, which ensures concentricity among shaft bearing, shaft and pump case, and provides better reliability and maintainability. Apply to municipal water supply and drainage, water circulation of air conditioner, agricultural hydraulic engineering, such as irrigation, drain flooded fields etc., industrial water supply system, firefighting system, water supply and drainage of
heating system, transportation of clean water

4. OPERATING CONDITION

a)Rotate speed: 2950r/min, 1480 r/min, 980 r/min, 730 r/min
b)Flow range: 64.4~9810m3/h
c)Delivery lift: =200m
d)Medium temperature: =80 ,
e)product adopting special materials: -20 ~120
f)Ambient temperature: Lower than 40
g)Operating pressure up to achieves 2.5MPa

5. MATERIAL 

a)Pump casing: Cast iron or magnesium iron
b)Pump cover: Cast iron or magnesium iron
c)Impeller: Cast iron, magnesium iron or tin bronze
d)Sealing ring: Cast iron or tin bronze
e)Pump shaft: 45# steel plated with chrome
f)Dynamic and static mechanical sea: Hard carbide, graphite
g)Configuring other material according to requirement is allowable

Rated flow

10(m3/h)

Rated head

26m

Rated power

1.5Kw

Voltage

220V

Rated Current

7.2A

Rated speed

2860r/min

Discharge diameter

50mm

6.Conditions of use

Pumps used in the following conditions should be continuously to work properly: 
1. For water pumps suitable medium, medium temperature shall not exceed + 40°C
2. The medium PH value between 6.5 ~ 8.5 
3. The volume of medium containing solid impurity is less than 0.1%, the size is not more than 0.2 mm 
4. The power frequency 50 hz, voltage for single-phase 220 v, 380 v, three-phase voltage fluctuation range for rating of 0.9 to 1.1 times 
5. Diving depth of no more than 5 m, is not suitable for irrigation and drainage of sewage and chemicals.

Water Pumps Serie Submersible Sewage Pumps From China On Sale

Water Pumps Serie Submersible Sewage Pumps From China On Sale


Q: looking for the comparison and then finaly the conclusion about the water pumps instaaled in the IC engines. Where we should stick to the tradional mechanical driven water pumps or electrical water pumps? which one is better!! any information/ response is appreciated
The belt driven pump is operating all the time the engine is running. This takes some of the HP of the engine and causes wear and tear of the belt and the pump. The electric driven water pump is operated on demand from the water thermostat and only runs when the water temp. rises above the setting and shuts off again on returning to the setting. Saves engine HP and pump wear and tear...It's much more efficient.
Q: All the water to my house comes from the river close by - via a 1500kw surface pump, into a large pressurised tank. If there is ever any kind of blockage in the pipe - or if it freezes ...this causes the pump to run - 'dry' - which eventually burns out the motor. I have lost 2 pumps so far because of running dry - and they are very expensive.I would like to fit some kind of automatic cut-out - that will ALWAYS stop the pump running after 15 minutes or perhaps less - as that is ALL the time it needs - if the water is flowing freely - to fill the pressurised tank. I feel sure such a thing must exist - but I do not know what it is called or where to buy one. Does anyone know of a 'switch' of this kind? And where to look for one? What could I put into google to do a search - for suppliers and prices, please?
the best thing is buy a submersable pump it is cheap and never burn
Q: Okay, I have a 1982 Suzuki Dt8 that someone gave me. But it will not pump water well, when you reve it it will have a little watter shoot out the water outlit, but heres the thing. if you take the cover off be the shift linkage and run the engin it will pump water through just fine
I've passed on answering your question a couple times, mainly because I'm not sure exactly what you are asking. So let me ask. In the water does the engine overheat? I'm not sure that what you are looking at isn't the relief hole and not the water discharge, which should be under water. How are you supplying water to your engine? Are you running in a barrel? The water pump should be replaced every 2-3 years, so unless you are going to do it yourself, take it to a shop and explain what you are observing. Taking the cowling off will have no effect on the water pump, so I'm guessing you are looking at the wrong place. P.S. This was a common error with Evinrude small motors back in the 70's and 80's, motors similar to yours. The exhaust fin was just behind the propeller. not higher up the leg
Q: I had a re-manufactured water pump installed and after 14 months I started smelling my radiator occasionally. Never suspected the pump since my original pump lasted 60,000 miles and was still fine when they replaced it feigning quot;it is customary to replace water pump with timing beltwhen in actuality my Hyundai Elantra just needs the pump checked every 60,000 miles. The re-manufactured water pump was diagnosed leaking for sure after 20 months. Anyway I believe the leaking pump which didn't get discovered for at least 4 to 6 months caused the early demise of my radiator. Does that make sense?Thanks,Mitzi
It is not likely that your water pump leak caused your radiator to fail. Your system was not holding pressure due to the leaking pump so the radiator probably did not fail from the most common problem of too much pressure.
Q: Hi, I'm looking for an affordable pump that can be used to circulate heated water (60 C) through a 12pipe with a diameter about the size of a pencil. Is there a pump out there to match this application? I've come across some small fountain pumps, but they need to be submerged in the 60 C water bath and I'm not sure about the temperature tolerances of it. The model I'm currently looking at is a quot;TotalPond130gph fountain pump model. Thanks
Sounds like you're in quite a predicament there.
Q: Question for you. I'm looking for a 12v (no AC converter, please) water pump to drive up to 4 water misters. Needs to run off the battery, without an AC converter (already found those). The pump will pull from a water reservoir and provide cooling relief on hot days through the misters. BTW... the pump should be reasonably small, limited to a few pounds...If you have any ideas, please advise.Thanks again,Robert
The ac converters are 12V rectifiers so just use the pump (wire to a battery) without the converter or check with motor home repair place
Q: 25KW what is the lift of the pump?
Give you a formula for estimating the power of a pump:N=Q (L/s), *H (m), /102/ (0.6~0.85), /0.85Explanation is:N, the power unit is kW (kW)Q, flow, in units per liter (L/s)H, the lift is m102 is 1000/g, G, that is gravity acceleration, is a unit conversion0.6~0.85, the efficiency of the pump, the general flow of large values, small flow of small value;0.85, power factorIn addition, there are some general power pump module, since there are: 1.1kW, 2.2kW, 3kW, 4kW, 5.5kW, 7.5kW, 11kW, 15kW, 18.5kW, 22kW, 30kW, 37kW, 45kW, 55kW, 75kW, 90kW, 110kW, 132kW......And generally there is no 25kW pump.
Q: And my heater works 80 % of the time, Is it still ok to drive if I keep putting water in it?
No! Water baptism cannot shop anybody. The demise thief hadn't accomplished any thing correct in his existence except to demonstrate faith in the Lord Jesus Christ and that is all that used to be required for him to obtain salvation. Where Peter was once announcing, repent and be baptised evey one among you for the remission of sins in Acts 2:38; right here he's pronouncing repent it is the act of repentance and religion in Jesus Christ that forgives and provides for the remission of sins and the act of baptism just isn't best the answer of a clear judgment of right and wrong closer to God but also is the scriptural manner where a man or woman is added to the church. We read in Acts chapter two the place about 3000 folks have been saved and then baptised and delivered to the church (Acts 2:forty one). The act of baptism is exactly only for individuals who have already been saved and is most likely no longer for any one else.
Q: I have a leak coming from the water pump that flows down on the side of the AC compressor before landing on the ground. I cannot verify exactly where the leak is coming from on the pump, but I am sure it is the pump leaking because it also sounds bad like rattling. My question is do I have to remove any other components, such as the AC compressor to be able to remove the water pump. I would be great full for any suggestions.Regards,Steph
First you have to mention which E320 you have. It could be either a gasoline or diesel model and the E320 model designation has had the M104 I6, M112 V6, M613 I6 diesel, and M642 V6 diesel under the hood. The water pump is not located in the same place on all engines.
Q: My house uses a pump that draws well water. With a family of four, I had never had a problem running out of water, even through 4 morning showers. Recently however, I have started running low and sometimes even run dry of water, although it’s now just me and my wife living at home. The pump is only a couple of years old. A couple of neighbors also have wells and pumps, so I don’t believe the water shelf has run low. The holding tank is at least 15 years old and probably older. I don’t know if it has a bladder, but I think it does. It’s a Wel-Trol brand. I’ve checked the pressure with a tire gauge and it holds at 30 psi. Also, it seems the cut in and out switch has a mind of its own. It especially would continue to run, even though the pressure hit cut-off level. Any ideas or suggestions?Thanks
Hmmmmm. I think I would look at the pressure switch here if you can confirm that the well does have adequate water in it. The next thing is the small pipe that the pressure switch mounts on. If it is galvanized these have a tendancy over the years to build up deposits and rusty scale and may need to be replaced. It sounds like you have the bladder style of pressure tank and that is a good thing. To check the proper pressure in the bladder watch to see the cut off pressure of the pump as it cycles. Note this. Turn the pump off and completely drain off the pressure tank. Check and adjust the pressure at the top of the Wel-Trol to be 2 to 4 pounds less than the pressure cutoff that you noted using compressed air. As the other posts have mentioned you also may have a leak in the pressure line to your house. The way to test this is turn off all the water to the house and see if there is a check valve in the T at the pressure tank. It will look like a tube about 2 inches in diameter and 4 inches long. Usually there is not one here as they clack when the pump shuts off. If there is not one note the pressure. See if it drops. There should be no drop. If it is a drilled well there may be a leak in the pipe down the well and this usually requires a visit from a well servicing company to determine. Hope this helps.

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