• Water Pump Series Submersible Sewage Pump From China System 1
  • Water Pump Series Submersible Sewage Pump From China System 2
  • Water Pump Series Submersible Sewage Pump From China System 3
Water Pump Series Submersible Sewage Pump From China

Water Pump Series Submersible Sewage Pump From China

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
100 set/month

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1.Specifications

1)High performance
2)Mechanical seal
3)Cast iron impeller or bronze impeller
4)Lower vibration water pump
5)Large flow

2.Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:

export wooden cases

Delivery Detail:

within 30 days once receipt of 30% T/T prepayment

BPO Irrigation Centrifugal Split Water Pump

3.FEATURES

BPO series single-stage double-suction open type centrifugal pump self-researched by the Company after absorbed advanced technology of similar products and combined application requirement of various customers. The series pump adopts excellent hydraulic model, wider type spectrum and better structure. Pump casing is produced by special machine tool, which ensures concentricity among shaft bearing, shaft and pump case, and provides better reliability and maintainability. Apply to municipal water supply and drainage, water circulation of air conditioner, agricultural hydraulic engineering, such as irrigation, drain flooded fields etc., industrial water supply system, firefighting system, water supply and drainage of
heating system, transportation of clean water

4. OPERATING CONDITION

a)Rotate speed: 2950r/min, 1480 r/min, 980 r/min, 730 r/min
b)Flow range: 64.4~9810m3/h
c)Delivery lift: =200m
d)Medium temperature: =80 ,
e)product adopting special materials: -20 ~120
f)Ambient temperature: Lower than 40
g)Operating pressure up to achieves 2.5MPa

5. MATERIAL 

a)Pump casing: Cast iron or magnesium iron
b)Pump cover: Cast iron or magnesium iron
c)Impeller: Cast iron, magnesium iron or tin bronze
d)Sealing ring: Cast iron or tin bronze
e)Pump shaft: 45# steel plated with chrome
f)Dynamic and static mechanical sea: Hard carbide, graphite
g)Configuring other material according to requirement is allowable

Rated flow

10(m3/h)

Rated head

26m

Rated power

1.5Kw

Voltage

220V

Rated Current

7.2A

Rated speed

2860r/min

Discharge diameter

50mm

6.Conditions of use

Pumps used in the following conditions should be continuously to work properly: 
1. For water pumps suitable medium, medium temperature shall not exceed + 40°C
2. The medium PH value between 6.5 ~ 8.5 
3. The volume of medium containing solid impurity is less than 0.1%, the size is not more than 0.2 mm 
4. The power frequency 50 hz, voltage for single-phase 220 v, 380 v, three-phase voltage fluctuation range for rating of 0.9 to 1.1 times 
5. Diving depth of no more than 5 m, is not suitable for irrigation and drainage of sewage and chemicals.

Water Pump Series Submersible Sewage Pump From China

Water Pump Series Submersible Sewage Pump From China


Q: We bought a second hand Rover 75, three months later head gasket blew. This was replaced but blew again due to original wet liners. A reconditioned engine was then put in but head gasket blew again due to original water pump. I am not trying to ascertain blame i would just like to know which is accurate as car seller is saying fault of mechanic as should have changed wet liners and water pump and mechanic is saying it is not common practice to change this parts when you replace a head gasket or engine. Thanks for any clarification, especially if you are a mechanic yourself.
Well the answer is..... I am going to take a guess that this is a Rover K series engine. They blow the head gasket just for something to do. Terrible problem when the engine was a 1.4 and it only got worse as they bored the engines out. The original fault will be poor maintenance and a failure to ensure it always has loads of anti freeze or corrosion inhibitor in there. That makes the liner to block interface corrode. The second is more controversial, if I knew the water pump was fairly new then I would probably not fit a new one with an exchange engine. If however the water pump was old or an unknown quantity then I would almost certainly change it, and the clutch too, if I had the engine out as it's such a fiddly job to do. BUT who was paying for the work? If it was you then this would have added a fair bit to the bill (if you didn't tell him to change it then really you can't complain that he didn't do it) and it it was warranty work then the terms of the warranty might set out what was supposed to be done. Rhys
Q: does water pump sealers work?
If your talking about the water pump for a car it doesn't have any pumps those would be the radiator pumps that are connected to the water pump and transmission which keeps the radiator and transmission at a temperature that keeps the vehicle from over heating. If you have a overheating car and a mechanic told you your water pump has a leak then sorry you would have to replace the water pump but just don't go to a popular mechanic for that because it can get really expensive do your research and find you someone with a garage it cheaper because the part itself is not that expensive it putting it in that cost lol. Hope this helps.
Q: I have a Honda 20003 bf15 d short shaft Ineed to change the water pump I have removed the 5 bolts that hold the lower unit it on but the shifter is steal hooked up how doI unhook that?
Please get the workshop manual. From an imperfect memory it should be in forward gear to expose a link - but I could be confusing it with other brands. This brand has a known issue with the water pump if ever run dry as both the impellor and the housing can be damaged instantly. The pump should always be replaced as a full assembly, housing, seals and impellor, as detritus can easily block water galleries and that requires extensive work to remediate. The thermostat should be checked and replaced at the same time. Worn and damaged impellor material can easily end up through the block, head, thermostat etc. and that must be checked for as well. The lower cylinder can be down on compression caused by local overheating due to this and mud, sand and corrosion reducing water flow. An engine that very much must be flushed and looked after after all use - that includes all the larger models with this brand. They are quite a good engine, but seem very heavy for the output to me - particularly compared to lifting a two stroke on and off....
Q: I have a 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.8 v6 engine. My car has been overheating lately and my low coolant light came on so i put antifreeze in it and the light went off. I drove about 3 blocks and the low coolant light came back on again and the thermostat was at the hot mark so i checked the antifreeze and it was just about empty. I did noticed when I was pouring the antifreeze that some did run out the bottom of the car but it wasn't alot. Also I noticed that in the morning when I get up and drive my car the thermostat could be at cold but if I drive about 3 blocks it's almost at the hot mark. Please help me determine whats wrong with my car. Is my water pump bad?
if your water pump is bad you will see coolant dripping from around it. Sounds to me like you have a MAJOR leak or a blown head gasket. If the engine oil looks like chocolate milkshake after you drive it, then its the head gasket. Fill your radiator up with water and drive till the engine temp is topped out. then get out and open the hood and look for spewing water. If you see it then there is your problem... if not then check your oil for milkshake.
Q: I've searched the net but cannot find exactly what I'm looking for and hoping someone out there can steer me in the right direction! Maybe I'm not looking in the right place....or do I have to fabricate my own? I'm up for the challenge!1) Trying to source a water pump that I'm going to power by HAND or a BICYCLE. 2) My choice of pump to give a continuous stream of water (very important) is a rotary (centrifugal) type or is there something else capable of a continuous output?3) This will NOT BE USED for potable water. SPECS:a) lightweight but durable, the smaller, the better. b) low RPM, high volume output and capable of producing/handling pressure. c) self-primingd) able to handle some small particulates in the water as I am using rain water. (from outside, NOT filtered, so the following may be present: bugs, dust, etc...) Thank you, in advance, for your help and would be nice to thank the individual(s) for a unique answer to my request at a later date so let me know you're preferred method of contact!
Those are widely used where hand or bicycle or animal power is common. It meets all your criteria except pressure. Depending on how much pressure you want/need a stand pipe or elevated tank might meet that requirement. If pressure is necessary, then go with a Double Acting Piston Pump and filter the suction. I recommend a Graded Sand Bed over the suction. I designed public water supply pumping stations drawing from rivers for years. Filtering the suction is no big deal.
Q: Does the pump accessories have a shelf life?
Yes, it's probably a year
Q: Could my problem be greater than a water pump or thermostat?
Yes, there could be a hole in radiator, or in hose/s to/from radiator. Have it repaired, ASAP. Experience over the years have taught that 'radiator repair' liquid does not work.
Q: A rectangular tank that is 2 feet long, 3 feet wide and 6 feet deep is filled with a heavy liquid that weighs 80 pounds per cubic foot. How much work is done pumping all of the liquid out over the top of the tank?How much work is done pumping all of the liquid out of a spout 5 feet above the top of the tank?How much work is done pumping two-thirds of the liquid out over the top of the tank?How much work is done pumping two-thirds of the liquid out of a spout 5 feet above the top of the tank?I thought that math was hard enough and now they added physics..
No work required, just hook-up a hose and siphon it out.
Q: The water pump on my 1997 corolla has been leaking, I want to replace it by myself. I did some research online, and get the diagram of the engine structure. It seems to me it is not very hard to do, but who knows, it might end up being a very tricky job. Did anyone replace the water pump on 97 corolla before? How difficult was it? Two things I actually worry: 1. It might be hard to unbolt the water pump pulley, because there is little room insert a wrench. 2. Also, because of the lack of room, it would be also hard to unbolt the timing belt cover (the 2nd/middle cover). A shop gave the quote of $440 to replace the water pump, and I think I should be able to do it myself.
You'll need to have a 1/4 drive short extension and 10mm socket to get the t-belt covers off. Also be sure to loosen the water pump pulley's 4 10mm bolts before removing the alt/ac belt to ease getting the pulley off. Your also going to need to support the engine when you take off the motor mount to gain access to the t-belt. Good luck and hope this helps. The hardest part of the job usually is getting the p.s. belt loose due to it's location while doing the job on the ground. Also you may want to invest in a repair manual so you line the marks up correctly, it's imperative that you have them exactly lined up.Good luck and hope this helps.
Q: I've never had overheating problems before, (although the heating itself never worked great) but today the gauge suddenly spiked while driving at about 50mph. I pulled over and steam was coming off the engine and the cooland tank was bubbling. The coolant was low, but not empty. I put some water in the coolant tank, let the engine cool and drove to a gas station where I got some coolant which I mixed with the water in the coolant tank. That didn't seem to help any. Even after letting the engine cool completely, it spikes after less than five minutes of driving. The radiator and both top and bottom hoses are equally hot. When I tried to start the engine with the radiator cap off, cooland shoots up out the top. The fans are working propely and there is no debris on the front of the radiator. So I'm sort of at a loss. Also, I've had some trouble starting since the problem.
Hi so your issue is most likely the radiator cap as well over time the spring in the lid of the cap which retains pressure becomes weak over time.

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