• Variable Flow Constant Pressure Fire Tangent Pumps System 1
Variable Flow Constant Pressure Fire Tangent Pumps

Variable Flow Constant Pressure Fire Tangent Pumps

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XBD-HY(HYL) series variable flow constant pressure fire tangent pumps are third-generation new products updated on the basis of XBD-HY(TB) series variable flow constant pressure fire pumps. Blended with the advanced technology from USA and Switzerland, and developed under the guidance of famous professors from Jiangsu Institute of Technology, this series of products are superior to the former kind of fire tangent pumps. Designed to the theory of partial emission pump, this product is the first of its kind at home, with its performance and technical specifications fully in compliance with the newly enacted standard of GB6245-2006 Performance Requirements and Test Methods for Fire Pumps.

Features:
1) The most distinguishing characteristic of XBD-HY(HYL) series variable flow constant pressure fire tangent pumps is variable flow constant pressure with flat flow and head curves, i.e. head remains almost unchanged (within 5%) when pump c:hanges in the range from zero flow to the maximum required flow, so as to ensure no overpressure under small or zero flow and to avoid failure of water supply under large flow. This characteristic meets the service requirements on fire control site to guarantee the normal work of fire control and to greatly improve the efficiency of fire extinguishment, the dependability of fire service equipment and the security of fire fighters.

2) This series of pumps cover vertical, horizontal and split fire pumps, which are featured by compact structure, small floor area, reliable mechanical seal, reasonable internal structure, high dependability, long service life, smooth running, little noise, maintenance free and lifetime warranty.

3) The drive motors of this series of pumps are Y series motors to achieve the function of constant pressure with no need to use pneumatic tank and variable frequency control, which has greatly lowered the cost of engineering construction. This is a great breakthrough in the technology of fire pumps in our country, which can bring remarkable social and economic benefit. The outlets of this series of pumps may be adjusted to the directions of 0°, 90 °, 180° and 270°.

Main Application:

XBD-HY(HYL) series variable-flow constant-pressure fire pump is mainly used for fixed fire systems in industrial and civil buildings, such as hydrant, automatic sprinkler and water spraying fire-extinguishing systems, as well as for water supply systems for domestic use, fire control and public domestic use, water supply for buildings, civil works, industrial and mining uses, boiler and so on.

Q: What is the function of open circulating water pump and shutdown in thermal power plant?
The problem is unclear and it is not clear what the question is. Is the pump open or closed or is the valve closed? Or else?
Q: I took out the thermostat, filled coolant level to upmost, my car still overheats, it doesnt leak ne where.How can I tell if the water pump is workin?
Overheating normally would require a failed water pump. Some liquid leaking out of the weep hole normally just indicates that the pump is going to fail. Does the water pump make a clicking sound? An abnormal pump sound also is an indicator of a pump that is starting to fail. Verify that the coolant is full. If full, check the fan. If the fan is not turning on between 185 to 225, the temperature sensor may be bad. Also verify that the thermostat is installed in the correct direction. If installed backwards, the engine will overheat quickly. (This is an easy mistake.) Good luck!
Q: mechanic says the bearings are going on the pump, and they might as well replace the thermostat while they are there.my question is he right?do they have to remove the engine to replace either the pump or the thermostat?seems like a lot of $ for a what should be a simple job ($450).thanks for your help!
If you have the 3.4L V6 the water pump is a simpler job to replace than the one on the 4 cylinder motor. The thermostat on the V6 is in a very tight spot, next to the exhaust pipe. I am unsure about the difficulty of the thermostat replacement on the 4 cyl.
Q: water pump and thermostat were replaced 18 months ago motors done about 20 hrs since replacement have checked and there are no blockagers in water tube what could be the problem thanks
well, if the water pump isn't pumping water, then the water pump is faulty. only way to know what's wrong with it is to open it up and look at it. one thing you might not be aware of, is that a few seconds of dry running is all it takes to damage the impeller, so if you've been in the habit of starting your motor without supplying water to the lower unit, then that's what happened. Another thing is, the pump sucks in sand and silt, those take a toll on the water pump; the more you run shallow water, the more damage is done.
Q: my water pump went bad on my 1997 chevy cavalier, causing it to leak all the coolant it had in the system. i put water in it til i could get new water pump. changed out water pump. attempted getting air out of system. put more concentrated coolant in system than i did water. bad guessing on my part. ran car around block 5 times. it was fine. this morning on the way to work, it started overheating again. my thoughts : more air in system that's not coming out? thermostat REALLY went bad at same time as water pump???? overheating all because of a little too much coolant??? for some crazy reason, my system needs to be suddenly flushed? Your thoughts? one last thing, the car has always ran perfectly normal temp til water pump went bad.
sounds like a air block in the cooling system. leave the radiator cap off and start it. the air will push the antifreeze out but once the air is out it will start to circulate. you will have to add more antifreeze before putting the cap back on. don,t forget to add some to the reservoir.
Q: PROline Dishwasher has Broken down, after a detailed Examination of the appliance we have managed to conclude it is the Water Pump, I'm looking to find a new one to repair it myself but would like to know if any make one would fit, as Finding a PROline Water Pump has proven Great Difficulty, Any Knowledge of the matter would be greatly appreciated, Thank you
Before you replace the pump, make sure that the hose to the pump is not blocked with food. This is a common problem. You probably have to match pump for pump. Google the part on line, they will mail it to you. OR check the yellow pages for dishwasher parts, they will answer you questions, and usually tell you how to fix it if you buy the part from them.
Q: In the design specifications, for example, the water pump requirement is two. What does that mean? Can 3 pumps be opened at once?
May not。1, the system is designed according to 2+1, 1 standby, only redundant backup of important equipment, not included in the running load.2, higher power distribution only provides 2 (maximum operating conditions) equipment rated operating power capacity (slightly margin, but limited).3, a single 160KW motor rated current is about 300A, 185 cable can only be used for the 1 pumps (with 2 units, and has overload) 630A circuit breaker is the frame level, if the current setting value is 630, it should be the main power switch (single pump with 400A circuit breaker, setting a value of 315 or 350A).4, if the 630A as the main switch to provide 2 pump power, has been close to full load (third pumps can not be added).5, water pipeline system, although not what caused the problem, but the water flow rate, flow rate of 2 pump operation should be in the ideal range, adding third pumps (the premise is to ensure the power supply) will make the water flow velocity is too large, in non ideal conditions.Conclusion: this method is inadvisable. If necessary, modify the original system, change to 3+1 mode, and change the line and circuit.
Q: Why is the water pump usually used multi-stage pumps, while the circulating pump is usually a single-stage pump?
The circulating pump is usually used in the closed-loop system, circulating pump will be generated when the pump pressure, the pressure is also said, and the suction pump up is in normal pressure system, the outlet of the closed-loop system, when the system pressure is 0.1MPa, the water pump for water system needs higher than 0.1MPa, the difference of pressure difference the greater the water faster, on the contrary, the smaller the slower the pressure difference; so the normal work must want water pump outlet pressure is greater than the system pressure. The replenishment pump is usually multi-stage pumps, and circulating pumps are usually single pump is wrong, as long as the replenishment pressure difference to meet the requirements, multi-stage pumps and single-stage pumps are not affected.(single stage pump and multi-stage pump difference: 1, single-stage pump water level "is a wheel is a level", an impeller, no other brothers and sisters for help; and a plurality of multi-stage pump impeller, there are brothers and sisters for its help, so that his ability to work is high. Just as a man works alone and a lot of people work together, the work is differentTherefore, as long as the design requirements are met, it is not important to select multi-stage pumps and single-stage pumps.
Q: Here is the deal...*Van over heats*Blows Cold quot;heatquot;*Coolant leaks (not into the oil)*Added coolant and water (nothing happened)*Started van, felt the hoses (no h2o flowing thru)Ive had this problem for a while. Some times my van drives just fine and heats just fine, then some days it wants to over heat and blow cool quot;heatquot;. Adding coolant to my van used to do the trick, but now its not working. If it is my thermostat that is broke, the water/coolant would still run through the hoses right?I really think its my water pump out, but I am not sure. Does this sound like my water pump? If so, I plan on changing it myself, how do i find step by step instructions to do so.... I have never done it before, but I cant afford to take it to a mechanic! Thanks for your help!
Again, see last answer to your same question. You obviously dont know what the real problem is, could be water pump and might not be. Instead of wasting over 25.00 on a water pump and that not being the problem, why dont you take it to a reputable repair facility and have the cooling system analyzed and they can tell you EXACTLY what part(s) need replacing, then go from there. Nobody can diagnose your cooling system problem over the internet since we are not at your vehicle with a coolant pressure tester and block test tool.
Q: I have a old house,1920's I think it was built. My water pump kicks on all the time! The tolite upstairs is not that old but the pipes are.The tolite runs for a min. and then stops for 5 mins. When I am running a bath..the second I turn off the water in the tub,the tolite starts to run! Same with the tolite downstairs,that one is only a few years old and the pipes are the same as it is an addition to the house. When I am up late at night in my office I hear the water pump kicking on in the basement ever 10 mins or so! My electric bill is huge! How can I fix this problem? What is causing it? I have not noticed any water leaks anywhere. We turned up the pressure on the pump. That helped a little. Thank god we have our own water well. Anyone have any Idea's?
put food coloring in toilet tanks do not flush allow to sit for a while if water in bowl becomes discolored then flapper is bad or water level is to high and going over flush valve and means fill valve is bad you should also only have 40-50 lbs of pressure if pressure is set to high you'll blow everything faucet seals toilet seals etc

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