• Under Liquid Sewage Pump System 1
Under Liquid Sewage Pump

Under Liquid Sewage Pump

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Summary

The second-generation YW(P) series under-liquid sewage pump is a new and patented product latest developed by this Co.specially for transporting various sewages under harsh working
conditions and made by way of, on the basis of the existing first-generation product, absorbing the advanced know-how both at home and abroad and using WQ series submersible sewage pumps hydraulic model of  the most excellent performance at present.
      YW series under-liquid sewage pump not only has  the all su-perior performances of the WQ series submersible sewage pump but also greatly opens out the applocable working conditions and fields of use of the latter due to its unique form of installation.

Application

      Suitable for steel works,  power plant,  coal works, mine, ho-spital, municipal works, chemical industry,  medicine, building, hotel, sea-wat er suction and drainage etc. trades  to transport the  
industrial sewage with grains and fibres,  the citys lovong sew-age or rain water and pure water, and also for some flow processes of chemical  industry.


Advantage


        The second-generation YW(P) series under -Luquid  sewage pump is designed by taking durability, easy use, stability,reliability and free of main tenance as the target an d has the
following merits:

1 High Efficiency Non-block up
        The uniquely designed single, doubl e-ge at imp eller, opening model, double leaf model impeller is high effectiv e without block-up, the pump casing etc. flow- through parts optimizedly designed for completing with the impeller can be selected with their materials and models upon the t ransported media and can be made sure of the exce llent hydraulic performance and working life in the transporta tion of the media containing suspended grains and long fibres,corrosive and abrasive.
        The geat is wide and sm ooth and is suitable to tr ansport the solid grain of a diameter abo ut 50% of the pump aperture.Double mechanical seals in series are used as the mechanical  
seal to provide a double protection and the frictional  secondary one is a spiral seal made of anti-corrosive sinteredtungsten carbide or silicon carbide and of  a special structure and can thus  be
ensured to continuously run without leakage.  
2 Stable,durable without  vibration
      The pump is vertically  structured, the  drive unit(motor stand, clutch, drive shaft,  connecting stand, bearing)is modular  designed and can be superposed at  will along with the variation of  the under-water depth. Both pump casing and impeller can be placed under liquid by 0.5-10m and the motor above the liquid surface, then, via connection with the drive unit, direct ly drives the nonblock impeller to stably run without  vibration.
       At the pumps inlet  a suck-in barrel  is set, its  exquisite  design makes the sucked liq uids level as deep as possib e, without block-up and with a good anti-twine sewage-removal property.  
      The integral structure of  the pump is designed comp act, st-able, durable and easily mountable.
      The pump can be used with common Y series  motor and,  if fitted with Y,Y2 series outdoor-type motor,  it can be avoided to build a pump house, reducing the investment for consturction,  
and the motor  can be mounted on the ground,  leaving a convenient operation, overhaul  and maintenance.seal ring is used as  the static seal,  it settles the problem of leakage and greatly enhances the pumps life.
     The motor is not placed under water and the cable as  well. Able to transport  and suck the sewage of a temperat ure 80 C and below, ultimately satisfying the applocable occasion or  
the requirements of  use of dirty and oil resistance,  wearability and with a higher temperature.

Q: How large is the starting current for a 1.5 kW submersible pump?
If single-phase, the no-load current is about 3.7A, the rated current is about 10A.
Q: I was vacuuming up water from my basement I assumed was from the rain, suddenly water started spraying out of a blue pump at the base of my furnace, don't know what the pump does or why its spraying but its making an awful mess.
Blue pump, usually found on the floor near the furnace (sometimes mounted where plenum meets the furnace frame) is a condensate pump. One of the products of combustion is water. This water is drained from the ventor motor (a motor which runs and sets a artificial draft inside the combustion chamber) to a drain nearby or a electric pump which then pumps the water over a longer distance to a remote drain. If the pump's discharge outlet gets plugged from dirt the result is usually the mess you see. Remove the cover plate of the pump housing, clean it out and run a wire with a small rag attached as a snake through the tube to drain. There is usually some type of float switch inside the pump housing so make sure it is free to move. Check for operation by pouring some tap water in it and move the float switch to on (up) One final note and this is very important. If the pump or tube to drain is filled up with a crud that resembles paste, call your local trusted HVAC tech for furnace service. This condition can be an early sign of heat exchanger failure and is a major safety concern for your family
Q: Water pump quot;leakingbut not dripping anything. how important?my 04 tacoma has a quot;leaking water pumpquot;. I just see some pink fluid around the seals, nothing is dripping. toyota dealer didnt make a big deal about it, just said i should get it done soon. heck they didnt even tell me, i just saw it on the receipt.other mechanics said the same thing. quot;whenever u want to do it we'll do it.is it not an hugely important mechanism or what? how long can i go without doing it? the first symptom would be the engine getting a little hotter? its been like that for 5-6 months.
yea the water pump circulates coolant through the entire cooling system. if you wait until it fails completely, your engine will overheat. i would get it done as soon as possible to prevent further engine damage if it does happen to fail.
Q: So when you exercise, is the amount of salts and water pumped out in the loop of henle reduced, if so why????
During exercise the amount of fluid passed through the LOH is increased due to the increase in blood pressure and cardiac output. The actual balance of salt and water is regulated through a different mechanism. Chemoreceptors and baroreceptors in major vessels keep track of the relative concentrations of salts and pressures in the blood vessels and direct the release of hormones that affect kidney function. For example, while exercising excessive sweating may increase the concentration of salt in the blood. To counter this anti-diuretic hormone is released to increase the amount of water reabsorbed by the kidneys. During exercise, the amount of urine produced is lessened because the water balance is used to produce sweat to cool the body. In response to the loss of water, the concentration of salt in the blood increases which triggers the thirst impulse in order to dilute to blood to normal concentrations.
Q: Hello, I'm having an issue with grinding/metallic noise from engine bay. Alternator was replaced today and didn't fix. However, when I got the car back from the garage the oil level indicator is saying quot;inactivequot;. I seem to find some answers on the web that say the oil level indicator is in some way connected to the water pump. Car has 95k miles on and I doubt it had been changed. Could this be the cause of the noise? And could anyone possibly tell me which pulley it is on the belt? Many thanks for your time :)
Alternator replaced? Will you be getting credit back for that? Anyway, at 95k it's almost about time to do a full preventive maintenance thing. That includes the water pump, belts, radiator hoses, I would do the tensioner and idle pulley too since one is there already. Would replace the radiator expansion tank too. Change the spark plug and valve cover gasket too while you are at it. The spark plug can be done separately, but it's time to replace them.
Q: My car randomly decided to dump fluids the other day. Now, the engine overheats after 5 minutes of driving it and the check engine light comes on. I put more coolant in it and noticed it began to drip underneath the car. I'm hoping it's a leak but being my car is 10 years old and I've never replaced either the water pump or the head gasket I figure it's about due time unfortunately. About how much would this cost me to have done at the garage?
The waterpump should run you around !$150 or less at most garages, -- about $45 maybe- if you do it yourself! The headgasket will probably cost you around 3-5 hundred depending on how much labor charge is! As it is possible that the head is warped and may need re-surcfaced to make it flat again --- and of course cost is going to depend on how much damage was done, -determined by how hot it got before you shut it down! The head gasket etc. shouldn't run much more htan $125-150 Now if it runs ok,-- and doesn't overheat when the radiator is full of water, -- even after warming up and driving on road for a few ninutes, -- (if leak fairly small - it will take some time to get down low enough to cause heat buildup)! I'd say 5 miles on highway would prove it is not warped head!! -- Just keep eye on temp and shut down if it starts getting close to overheat--- to avoid increasing damage, - if head gasket out! In yard, you can get pretty good idea, by just filling up raidator, and leaving cap off with engine running-- after it has idled for a few minutes, (and you have topped it up a couple times to make sure it is full of water, -- if gasket leaking it will blow continueous bubbles, -- after the thermostat opens, a little water will rise and run over (expansion of water) ). -- ****However it should not contionue blowing any continueaous bubbles--- (continued large quantities of bubbles indicates compression being blown into water jacket from bad headgsket!) ...A small bubble now and then is negligeable, as a bubble or two may still be trapped from when water level was down! You will know when thermostat opens, as there will be moving water obvious through filler neck of radiator, and the upper hose will become hot going into radiator! It is also possible that you may see oil on water if headgasket leaking, as well as water in oil-- which would be sort fo fuzzy yellowish looking junk on dipstick, and oil fill cap!
Q: I have a fairly new jetted tub. I stupidly used bubble bath 2 days before and have since read that it is not good, but just because of the amount of bubbles, not that it will actually harm the system. The electrical circuit is not tripped. I hear this clicking but the pump doesn't turn on. Any ideas? Do I need a new pump?
Also may want to check inside the access door underneath some have a cord plugged into a GFI receptacle that may be tripped. May want to check it just in case.
Q: I've been looking online and can't find anywhere that tells me how to replace the water pump in my 1999 Volkswagen Jetta 2.0. Help please.
Go down to your local Auto Parts Store and ask for a Hayne's Manual for your car, this will show pics and explain in detail how to do just about ANYTHING on your car!
Q: My 1998 Dodge Dakota V6 heater only gets warm, I have replaced the thermostat. I have back flushed the heater core. The heater hose coming from near the thermostat gets hot, but the hose coming from the heater core going to the water pump only gets warm. The large hose coming from the thermostat is hot near the engine, but is only warm near the radiator. Is the water pump bad? If I open the radiator cap there is no signs of circulation. How do I check the water pump?Thanks,Gene
to answer your question directly, you can check a water pump the same on any car. water pumps have whats called a weep hole there is a small hole that is designed to leak coolant when your water pump seal goes out. find the pump and see if there is a trail of white from this 'weep hole' then yes your pump is bad. if not, i dont know the layout of the hoses for your car so i couldnt diagnose it for sure. but check your water pump for the signs i gave you. its a tell tale sign
Q: In case our electric goes out we would like to be able to run the water pump (for the well) via solar panel. Can you give me instructions, pitfalls, recommendations, links etc to help me get started?The more solar info i can get the better!thanks 10 points on offer!Our sunlight is unobstructed
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