Submersible Sewage Pump

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: -

Supply Capability:: 99台 unit/month

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Product Characteristic:

With the big channel and nonclog impeller, the solids up to 80 mm can be effectively passed. With rugged cast iron pump body, the last new material is used for seal, motor is F calss and IP68 protection, the pump can operate smoothly for a long time. Compact structure, easy to movement, convenient to installation. The automatic installation system with double guide rails brings great convenient for the installation and maintenance. The pump will automatically operating and stop thanks to the float switch. With varies monitor, the pump can be remote controlled.

Application Scope:

Be used for the drainage of serious polluted water in factory or commerce. Be used for the drainage of sewage in residential area. Be used for the drainage of sewage in hospital and hotel. Be used for the water supply and drainage in waterworks. Be used for the water supply and drainage system in city sewage treatment factory. Be used for the drainage of water in civil air defense system. Be used for the municipal engineering and construction site. Be used for agricultural methane, agricultural irrigation.

Application Conditions:

pH: 5—9, the temperature of water is less than 60℃. The content of impurity is less than 25%.

Installation Methods:

The pump can be installed in fixed and free stand style.

Fixed Wet Installation

The unique auto-coupling system owned by our corporation is used. The pump slips down to the duck-foot pedestal along the guide rail and positioned automatically, tightly and reliably.

Free stand Installation

Pump stand on the bottom by support plate and connected with the flexible pipe. This kind of installation is used in emergency, maintenance and construction (limit to the pump with power less than 4 kW.)

WQ SERIES SUBMERSIBLE SEWAGE PUMP

W Q 1600 - 20 - 132

WQ --- Submersible sewage pump

1600 --- Flow capacity (m3/h)

20 --- Head (m)

132 --- Power kW

Q: My 2005 Lexus IS300 is close to 90K miles and I believe the timing belt/water pump should be replaced. I have priced this with several dealers and mechanics and at this time I can't afford close to $1000 to have this done. However, I see there are kits that can be purchased for about $400.Can a DIY'er with above average mechanical experience replace the belt nd pump relatively easily?: Alot depends on having the proper tools and knowledge . If you have the right tools you could try it but i have known a few people that tried doing there own t-belt and ruined there motor . I am not trying to scare you just don't want you to cause any more expence for yourself. The water pump is easy once you get the belt off . If you do try it heres wishing you good luck

Q: my basement flooded and the water came in contact with the wiring on my water pump.Now the pump tries to turn on but shuts off without pumping any water.How do i get my pump pumping water again?: sounds like not only did it come in contact withe wiring but also with the pump,when your working with electricity you need to be very careful and have the right tools to do the job with. to start this job you need a multi testing meter,this will let you check things like amp,volts,ohms,you know things that comes in contact with the pump and wiring,you didn't say what the voltage is on this pump,so first i'd find out what that is and make sure you have that going to the pump,then if so make sure the pump isn't froze or locked up,next go to the breaker box and locate the breaker for the pump,and test to see how many amps the pump is pulling when turned on.then find out if there is anything restricting the pump from doing its job,it may be something as simple as a run capacitor or even a shorted or burnt wire,but first make sure you have the correct voltage and amperage going to and coming out of the motor,once you get that taken care of you may need to prime the pump in order to get it pumping again

Q: So my daughter's car is an 02 Accord manual with about 127k miles. It's making a squeaky noise which apparently is the belts. The dealer says they're too tight, but are in okay condition. They want to change the water pump and adjust the belts for $750. This seems a bit steep to me. Does the water pump need to be changed if it's working properly? How much should it cost to adjust the belts? I'm thinking she should find a more reasonable shop. What are your thoughts?: First taking a 14 year old vehicle to the dealership is not really necessary but it's your choice. If there talking about the timing belt then it is a expensive repair anywhere from $600-$1000 and it needs to be replaced to prevent it from breaking and causing the engine to destroy itself. If that is the case then the water pump also needs to be replaced since it's driven by the timing belt and in the same access point. There is a possibility that there talking about a serpentine belt that turns the accessories such as the alternator, ac compressor, but on that Honda I think there talking about the Timing belt.

Q: We have a 2001 mazda tribute that has been leaking coolant and overheating. we thought it was just the radiator, so we replaced it, but it is still doing it. It leaks pretty rapidly, and overheats pretty fast too (in 1 to 2 miles of city traffic) Does this sound more like a hose or the water pump? how difficult will it be to replace the water pump?: With the engine running at idle take a look at your coolant resevoir and follow the lines. If it is a hose leak you should be able to see it no problem. When is the last time the radiator was flushed? You could have a blockage in there somewhere too. Depending on how handy you are will determine how difficult the water pump is to replace if that is the problem. Some help can be found online by looking for a Mazda forum. Good luck

Q: I have a 1992 Pontiac Sunbird LE. It has 4 cyl. and it has 98,000+ miles on it. I took it in to get the oil changed and they inspected the car for a noise it was making. Found out the water pump was gone and the timing belt was worn. Need replacement on both. They quoted me 670.00 for the repair! STEEP! The part should cost about 20.00 max. How do I replace the water pump myself? And the timing belt? Do I need special tools? If I can't do it pretty easily myself, how much should I pay for the repair? I'm not made of money, but I need my car to run to get me to work everyday! I can't afford much, so anything around 200-300 is probably the most I can spend on the repair. What should I do?: On okorder , your timing belt with cost $15.99 and your water pump will cost $35.19 for a new one. Keep in mind that most shops charge more than that as this is how they make a profit. Depending on what their labor charge is, that doesn't sound too far out of line. I just did a timing belt and water pump on a Chrylser with a 3.5 today and it cost about $600 to do that. The water pump on your car is driven by the timing belt and is not an easy task to accomplish if you have no idea what you are doing. You can easily destroy this engine. If you are not sure how to replace an air filter, this would definately be out of range.

Q: Where is the water pump located on a 1993 mitsubishi eclipse with a 1.8 motor: Your water pump would be located on the right hand side of the motor. It has the fan belt running on the pulley in front of it the top water hose is connected to it. I hope this has helped you out.

Q: i installed a new pump don't know how to increase water pressure and to what what pressure it should be set: This is very simple i would sugest the pressure to be set betwene 60 to 70 NO MORE THAN 70. 1. turn off power to pump (ether the circut breaker or a switch near the pressure switch) you dont want to weld the wrench to the switch. 2. remove the cover to the pressure switch its self (usly one #2 phillips screw) 3. now you will see 4 wires under some sloted screws nearest to the front of the switch, behint that is 1 or 2 bolts with a spring and a nut. 4. if you see 2 bolts you will want to turn the nut on the larger one to the right. you will want to tighten it about 1 to 2 full turns. (the same goes if there is only one bolt also) 5. now open the valve that is on the tank untill you here the switch click. then close the valve. 6. turn the power back on tio the pump and watch the pressure gauge on the tank. i DO NOT RECOMEND MORE THAN 70PSI. 7. if it goes over the pressure you want repete steps above exept loosen the nut in about 1/4 to 1/2 turns untill you reach the desired pressure 8. if it does not reach your desired pressure then you do the same thing exept tighten the nut in 1/4 to 1/2 turns untill you attain your desired pressure. 9. when the pressure is reached, replace cover so you dont risk rusting the contacts. if you need more help feel free to email me. and i will assist you in any way that i can.

Q: For the past couple days my car has been over heating quickly and there ha been some leaking underneath my car. well I went to start my car today to run to the store and the heating gauge was going up and down from overheating to perfectly fine within seconds...I popped the hood and there was antifreeze spraying on the engine. So my friend that I called said that meant there was a leak in my water pump. The autoshop in town is busy with over cars all day, I already called, and there isn't another shop within 15 miles. I work in 3 hours, and the drive is 30 minutes away. I have no other way to get to work, is it safe to drive my car or should I call in and let my manager know I can't make it? I have been working there almost 2 months and have never been late or called in.: for someone that has spare hose laying around, it could have been repaired in less than 15 minutes with a piece of hose with an inside diameter the same size as the outside diameter of the original pump hose. 2 hose clamps and your good to go. fill her up and drive to work then get a new hose and replace it yourself or get it to a shop. This answer is more for anyone visiting this question now rather than the original poster.

Q: Is it normal for my sump pump hole to be empty. No water in there.. ??: I wish my hubby were home to answer- but I think it HAS to remain in the water. It will burn the pump up if it is dry. A sump pump is meant to be submersed... all the time. You may need a new pump now anyway. You might be burning it up. hope that helps!

Q: I have a 1997 Honda Civic DX and i recently took it in to have its timing belt and water pump replaced. Since then, I have noticed a change in the cars performance. I have lost both gas mileage and power since i took my car in. The maintenance supposedly took the dealer twelve hours to complete which seemed a little odd to me. Do you think this is linked? I just remember getting a lot more miles to a tank of gas, and my car was about the same speed as a friend of mine's who now smokes me. Thank You.: ITS MOST LIKELY NOT TIMED CORRECTLY, MAYBE OFF BY ONE OR TWO TEETH. IF THIS REPAIR WAS DONE RECENTLY I WOULD TAKE IT BACK AND TELL THEM THAT THE VEHICLE HAS A LACK OF POWER CONCERN EVER SINCE THEY DID THE REPAIR. THEY SHOULD NOT CHARGE YOU MORE UNLESS THEY FIND THAT IT HAS THIS CONCERN BECAUSE OF ANOTHER PROBLEM. HONDA'S ARE KNOWN FOR DECEIVING TIMING MARKS.

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