• Truck brake assembly  OEM  for heavy truck System 1
  • Truck brake assembly  OEM  for heavy truck System 2
  • Truck brake assembly  OEM  for heavy truck System 3
Truck brake assembly  OEM  for heavy truck

Truck brake assembly OEM for heavy truck

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
  • Size: 90x 9.6 x360

  • Car Make: KATO

  • OE NO.: GG-113/1 UK090-01 15240

  • Place of Origin: Jiangsu, China (Mainland)

  • Brand Name: hi-best

  • Model Number: GG-113/1 UK090-01 15240

  • color: black/brown/yellow/green

  • PC: 4

  • rivets: L7.5

  • holes: 12

  • slot: yes

  • chamfer: yes

  • grade: GG/FF

  • test: chase

  • label: according to requirement

  • noise: none

  • Packaging & Delivery

    Packaging Details:cartons,pallet
    Delivery Detail:25 days

     

      

    —————————————————————— 

     bus brake lining                                   

    1.high quality&good yutong bus brake lining  
    2.material:asbestos&non asbestos
    3.400 kinds for truck,trailer,bus,etc
    4:chase test  

    ——————————————————————

    Characteristic

    • light & heavy duty brake lining  

    • Very efficient when braking and low wearing, minimum loss of efficiency on wet surface.

    • Low wear of the rotors.

    • powerful and progressive brake that doesn't fade.

    • Low lost of efficiency on wet conditions. Low to no-noise.

    • Smooth on rotors, very effective for high line tourisms.

    • Produced f or both axels, it can  be applied on the rear axel on competition vehicles of front wheel drive

     

    —————————————————————

 

 

 

 

 

Q: when stopping a bike do i have to down shift the 1st before i make a complete stop? or can i stop in 4th and just shift down to 1st before pulling off. keep in mind i have only one hand so front breaking and clutch is really hard for me?. and also dose down shifting slow the bike? engine breaking? or will any of this cause transmission stress (problems)?
there are 1 armed motorcycle riders out their, one of my friends is one, he has the clutch and brake on the right side, edit: my friends set up is that he has a thumb throttle, air clutch, and front brake lever 1.) when stopping the bike downshift while slowing and while rpms are closer to 2.0 or 1.5 is how i do it so i don't grind first. 2.) yes engine braking slows the bike and no it doesn't cause stress to the transmission, 2a.) engine braking depends on bike make / model, my bandit 1200 has 7.5 to 1 compression ratio which is very small so it doesnt do much engine braking as is, while my harley 1600 has a higher ratio so it causes more engine braking. edit james: i agree, its very hard to learn how to ride after an injury like that my friend was riding for a while before his accident, new riders is a ton harder but if you dont mind a a lot of parking lot training. like a LOT. like a couple of weeks / months, then u should be alright
Q: I am trying to get my mom convinced that I will be a much safer driver on a motorcycle than a car. I have been doing research and teens get into more accidents in cars than on bikes by percentages. The reason for it is because the teens on motorcycles get there senses heightened and teens in cars get careless. The teens in cars also can get distracted by the radio and stop paying attention to the road and cyclists have nothing else to do but look around them at the cars they are passing/being passed by. What is your opinion, 18- get in more accidents on bikes than cars. also want opinion: would you agree with me that I should get a motorcycle as well as a truck so the bike isnt my main means of transportation?
Now look up the death toll and severity of injuries in percentage of matorcycle accidents to car accidents.
Q: what are the best brake pads for chrome rotors on a motorcycle?
I like the EBC brand for chrome rotors. They have excellent grip when wet and don't chew up the metal.
Q: does anyone know what is being checked while getting a safety on a motorcycle in ontario or anywhere in generelplease be specific lights , reflectors ,frame etc. thanks alot
Head light - high low beam Tail light F R brake light Turn signals No cracked lenses - head light, tail light, turn signals. Tires - 2/32 inches tread depth in the center and no dry-rot on side walls. Horn - must be loud enough to hear in traffic (not like a limp duck). Brakes - not worn down to wear limits. Mirror - at least one and not broken Steering bearings - can't be loose, or have any indents. Fork seals - no leaks. No leaks of any fluids In the USA these are the quick checks (must have, most important). If the inspection station dis-likes you, they can think up some technicalities. If this stuff passes your own inspection and the inspection station won't pass your bike, take it to another inspection station.
Q: Can we skip the answer that go you never stop learning or after __ years I am still learning. Yes I understand you are always improving, you are always learning and what not but you know what I am asking so can I get real answers here? (not trying to be an as*hole just trying to get answers).I generally pick up on things rather fast, I learned how to drive a stick in a couple hours and by the 2nd day my shifts were smooth. so I learn pretty fast.
I learned how to drive a stick in a couple hours and by the 2nd day my shifts were smooth. so I learn pretty fast. That long? That is not driving though is it? Operating the controls is not riding – a monkey could be trained to operate the controls.
Q: First of all, I have a maybe 1972 honda 350 that probably hasnt run in 22 years, yes 22. Almost everything on the motorcycle is perfect except the throttle and front brake. Both of the pedals/handle, will not move even one centimeter. Would the front brake drum be stuck or would it be the cable stuck. Then the throttle, it will not turn at all and I have no idea how to free that.Thank you for any help here, im truely clueless.
sometimes you have to wiggle it and pull you have the right idea. Try to drive to autozone or advanced auto. They will help you.
Q: what is the best long lasting brakes I should buy. I just changed the brakes December, and it‘s now April and I‘ve already wasted them. I don‘t ride too much, but I do ride often. On my jeep, I got the metallic, but don‘t know much about motorcycle brakes.tx
On a motorcycle you actually want to slightly excellent through a curve. It helps to stretch out the suspension and improves corning ability. Never brake in a turn (do it before the turn if needed), if you have to brake straighten the bike out first and then brake. As far as your body goes lean into the turn with the bike, you should still be sitting pretty much straight on the bike as it leans. Lean into the grip on the side your turning and it will make the bike lean into the turn just right for you. ***and for god's sake if you're not on a race bike doing over 140 keep your knees on the tank***
Q: Okay, the other day I was washing my rims on my Gixxer. While using the hose, I think I may have wet the rear brakes (pads n pedal). About an hour later, I took it on the interstate. After about 15 minutes of riding I realized my rear brakes weren't working at all. I got to my destination and tried to pump them and nothing. About a half hour later I tried again and they worked. Did this happen because I wet them while washing my bike or is there something else wrong with them? If there is something wrong with them, then how did they all of a sudden start working?
After an hour and a quarter there will be no significant amount of water between the pad and disc and anyway the heat generated by applying the brakes would have dried out both in next to no time. Providing there was not a large amount of detergent put directly onto the discs, I suspect you have a different problem possibly the pistons are fouled and partially jammed. The only other culprit I can imagine is are pads worn to the metal in which case you will have heard it. 2 points to consider Brakes do work in the wet (the grip of the tyres is affected but the brakes will still work). Vents in brake discs are not to dissipate water they are there to dissipate heat. EDIT: >actually i do... i own a 200cc dirt bike with front and back disc brakes.. the back brakes don't do anything to slow me down when wet... the front ones are severely impaired, but will slow me down That is not the brakes that are impaired, that is the reduced grip of the tyres.
Q: im 18 and ive been driving standard cars since I was 14 and in that time with my job i have driving ive put well over 100k miles worth of experience into driving standard. I know every trick to it.when I was younger and rode bmx bikes with friends and whatnot I could always handle myself really well. doing wheelies and no hands better than anyone else ( not that I‘d be doing tricks on a motorcycle but I just have good handeling.idk if that means anything .but would someone like me have a fairly easy time learning to ride a motorcycle?and ive wondered how long does it take yo learn and master knee drags ? seems like it‘d be the hardest thing to do.
Riding--and surviving--has more to do with attitude than with aptitude. A teen-aged non-rider talking about knee dragging looks like a future road-rash victim from where I sit. You will probably learn quickly enough, but your confidence will most probably grow much faster than your real riding skills, and that won't keep you out of the emergency ward for long. Knee-dragging is useful on the track (and I spend a lot of time there). There is NO place for it on the street, and skill has nothing to do with it. It has to do with the variables that exist on the street that are not present at the track: Dust, oil and gas on the roadway; potholes, manhole covers, asphalt patches, frost heaves; curbs, light standards, sign posts, guardrails; pedestrians, children, stray animals, wildlife, roadkill other motorists; driveways, intersections.
Q: say im going 20-30or more mph and i want to come to complete stop at a red light and im on 3 or 4th gear can i just hold my clutch and brake or do i have to shift down to neutral?also if i want to slow down and im on different gears can i hold my brakes or do i have to always clutch down everytime i need to stop or slow down?
You can pull your clutch in and brake if you need to stop depending on how close you are to the traffic lights when they turn red. If you can change down as you are stopping it's an option but the important thing is stopping safely. practice your emergency braking remembering 70%of your stopping power is in the front brake, you do not want to lock the brakes up if you can avoid it, keep the bike upright when your braking hard. If you see the lights are going to change giving you time to react safely, you can use your gears to slow you down quite rapidly but you will need to practice. Use you clutch as much as you can when you change gear once you've been riding a while it will become a natural reaction and you won't have to think about it.

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

Hot products


Hot Searches

Related keywords