BRAKE LINING FOR VOLVO 19563/62 OEM System 1

BRAKE LINING FOR VOLVO 19563/62 OEM

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:	1) 3 sets per carton 2) 20' container: 1000 CTNS
Delivery Detail:	15days

Specifications

1) Extremly lower noise
2) Little dust and long life
3) Stable friction coefficient
4) High quaility with guarantee

1.Specifications

Type	Brake lining
Material	Semi-metallic or non-asbestor
OEM No.	19486
Certification	ISO/TS16949
Color	Black or up to you
Asbestos	None
Noise	None
Guarentee	40,000 kms
Packing	carton package
FOB Price	USD 1.7-4.5 /pc
MOQ	100 sets
Delivery Time	30 days after order confirmation

2.Advantages

1)Stable Friction Coefficient

2)heat-resistant: Less fading and heat resistant up to 400°C

3)abrasion resistance

4)Long Service life:FF grade 35000~40000km

5)Low noise and dustproof

6)Environmental protection,green products

7)Standard:GB5763-1998

3.Promise
1)We can supply all kinds of brake pad ; this model was designed and developed as per clients' specifications and drawings or samples
2) We can currently offer over 800 moulds for different using models for Japanese, European, Korean and American brand cars and trucks with OEM services available
3)These products sell well in more than 20 countries and regions including the Middle East, Southeast Asia, Europe, America and Japan
4)We assure that all the parts strictly meet the original equipment standards

BRAKE LINING FOR VOLVO 19563/62 OEM

Q: Is there a site which allows me to search for motorcycles with certain specifications (which I find lacking in my XRM)?? However, just in case you guys might know of a bike model like it, here are the specific things i‘m looking for in the bike:1. Custom/Cruiser Type2. 150cc to 500cc (bad streets; can‘t make use of the full capacity of bikes)3. Liquid Cooled (traffic is a pain)4. Fuel Injection System (fuel is expensive)5. OHC/DOHC (what else is there? that‘s al i know)6. Disk Brakes front AND back (psychological; makes me feel more secure)Oh, and are there any models where the headlight does NOT move while moving the swingarm??? Kinda like the CBR150r‘s headlights being fixed in the frame of the bike and even if the swingarm is adjusted from side to side, the headlight is fixed in a forward position. Reason for that is coz i get dizzy when the light at night moves too much to the L/R.THANK YOU!!!: Try this get off the computer and go visit a couple of motorcycle dealers.

Q: Okay I started riding two days ago and crashed confusing the clutch for the front brake and the actual front brake for the back, rode a pedal bike most of my life -___- like my dad is going to let this happen, but is there a system or way to switch everything around? Make the back brake on my Honda crf the clutch make the front brake the rear and make the clutch the front brake?: I guess anything is possible just forget about the bicycle you are now riding motorcycles get used to them

Q: I‘m only 5 with short legs. I also have a fused left wrist so it doesn‘t bend. I‘ve always wanted to learn to ride a motorcycle. My family either has dirt bikes or Harley‘s but I have an old bicycle with the brakes on the pedals. Should I just not even think about it at this point with all my injuriesgt;: I've been riding motorcycles since 1998. Lately I've been looking into motorcycles with sidecars. I saw one at a motorcycle convention in Houston called a Ural. It's relatively cheap, especially for one with a sidecar (from $9,000-$11,000). Because it's a 3-wheeler, it's a lot easier to ride when it comes to getting over the fear of not having your feet on the ground (it doesn't fall over at a complete stop), and you'll definitely not need to put down your feet and damage your knees. I did find, though, that it's a lot different of a ride than a regular 2-wheel motorcycle (I felt like I was learning how to ride all over again). The shifting is the same (except with a reverse lever catch, which works independently from the regular shifter, so you'll still learn how to shift). The problem is in the physics of riding with a big hunk of metal dragging on your right side. You're also not leaning into turns, and the right turns will make you really nervous (the sidecar starts picking up off the ground). It probably rides more like an atv than a motorcycle. Also, there's a Ukranian company called Dnepr which makes the same kind of motorcycles, but haven't had as much Quality Control as the Urals have had. They're also about 1/2 the price (I've gotten $5500 quotes for a fully assembled and shipped unit). Problem is, as a beginner, you're probably less prone to want to WORK on the motorcycle, so I'd suggest the Ural. The motorcycle/sidecar unit will help you keep from stretching out your knees and blowing them out. They turn heads, too! Otherwise, try a light cruiser, like a Honda Shadow. They sit lower (so you can put your feet down comfortably). Stay away from sport bikes, not only because they sit higher, but also because some of your body weight will lie directly on your wrists. Hope that helped!

Q: I am new bike rider i have a few doubts1 is it best to brake first and shift down or shift down and then brake2 when to use clutch and when not to3 also which is the safe method to drive in hills i.e. to use clutch and brake or drive in higher gears please specify for both uphill and down hill4 why engine stalls when we brake without clutchPlease give elaborate answers rather than saying go to some school or somethingi am from india: This has been cover many times before. But here it goes again. 1: You brake first using both front and rear brakes, at the same time. You do not have, to use the motor to slow down. So you can, just pull in the clutch, brake till you almost stop then downshift. Depending on your motorcycle, the best way is to. Brake till you've slowed down to right before the motor bogs. Pull in the clutch, downshift one gear, let out the clutch. All the time keep braking, repeat till you almost stop. Pull in the clutch and stop with the front brake. 2: You use the clutch, when you are stopped in gear. Shifting up or down, starting and stopping. You ease out the clutch when starting. Pull it in quickly when stopping. 3: Depending on the size of the hill. Going down hill, I use a lower gear and let the motor keep me at a slow speed. Braking only when I need to. Going up hill, I also use a lower gear to keep the RPM up. 4: The motor stalls, because you are in to high a gear. And or your stopping. Do not let the RPM get below 1000. Look, I can tell you how to do it, but that won't help you much. Till you see it done and do it yourself. Driving a motorcycle is almost the same as driving a stick shift car or truck. You clutch at the same times, you shift at the same times. You just, use your hand and feet differently.

Q: I have a1981 Yamaha 650, and i just changed my front brake pads. The fit was extremely tight and now it seems to grind on the caliper when im on the road. I find myself slowing down and not able to coast far at all. How do i release the pressure on the front brakes? Any help would be appreciated.: For okorder /... Go to - 1981 XS650H - Front Brake-Caliper The 4 parts at # 10 from left to right are - piston, seal, dust seal, circlip

Q: How do I adjust the brakes on the motorcycle?: Motorcycle hydraulic disc brake is not tune, because the whole system is not a adjustment screw. Cause the brakes are particularly tight reasons are: brake hydraulic piston card does not have the resilience or brake the master cylinder plunger card, to solve only the replacement.

Q: How do I get my motorcycle in the bed of my pickup truck?: you cant really beat a bridgestone battleaxe touring tyre 3 layer compound made for your machine

Q: I am planning to attempt replacing my rotors and am unsure if there are any critical details i may be leaving out, i will explain my plan of attack and would liek to know if it is suitable.1. elevate front wheel2. remove caliper3. remove axle nut and clip4. slide out axle and remove front wheel5. unbolt old rotor, and replace with new (is there a procedure to center the new rotor on the bolts?)6. Replace wheel with new rotor into forks and reinsert axle7. Tighten axle nut **snugly and insert pin8. replace pads, compress piston, and reatatch caliper9. done?Are there any special tools i will need other than wrenches for screws and bolts and to compress the caliper? Anything im missing? What shoudl i torque the bolts that hold the rotor to the wheel to? Are they backwards threaded as many screws on rotating assemblies often are?: any fuel you want but e85 best way to knwo what fuel gets you the best mileage is by filling it up at place you alway stop at set mileage or write it down drive til one need to refill and buy next lower type octane wil tel you which one to use at that place then you stop at place you sometimes stop at and do same thing knowing which fuel that you get the best mileage with is right type to use start with highest octane and dont retard motor set it like it should be set then do the test

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