• Brake shoe of truck brake brake linings  OEM System 1
  • Brake shoe of truck brake brake linings  OEM System 2
Brake shoe of truck brake brake linings  OEM

Brake shoe of truck brake brake linings OEM

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

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  • Size: 90x 9.6 x360

  • Car Make: KATO

  • OE NO.: GG-113/1 UK090-01 15240

  • Place of Origin: Jiangsu, China (Mainland)

  • Brand Name: hi-best

  • Model Number: GG-113/1 UK090-01 15240

  • color: black/brown/yellow/green

  • PC: 4

  • rivets: L7.5

  • holes: 12

  • slot: yes

  • chamfer: yes

  • grade: GG/FF

  • test: chase

  • label: according to requirement

  • noise: none

  • Packaging & Delivery

    Packaging Details:cartons,pallet
    Delivery Detail:25 days

    Specifications

    1.yutong bus brake lining
    2.MOQ:50 SETS
    3.23K, 80,000KMS
    4.CHASE TEST
    5.400 MODELS

     

     

     

    Product Description

     

      

    —————————————————————— 

    yutong bus brake lining                                   

    1.high quality&good yutong bus brake lining  
    2.material:asbestos&non asbestos
    3.400 kinds for truck,trailer,bus,etc
    4:chase test  

    ——————————————————————

    Characteristic

    • light & heavy duty brake lining  

    • Very efficient when braking and low wearing, minimum loss of efficiency on wet surface.

    • Low wear of the rotors.

    • powerful and progressive brake that doesn't fade.

    • Low lost of efficiency on wet conditions. Low to no-noise.

    • Smooth on rotors, very effective for high line tourisms.

    • Produced f or both axels, it can  be applied on the rear axel on competition vehicles of front wheel drive

     

    ——————————————————————

     

     

    Specification

     

    WVA MAFF BFMC DIMENSION DRUM DIAM APPLICATION
          19932315.1290.0 SV/41/2 203×19×235 410bpw

     

 

 

 

 

Q: I need something light, really comfortable, and can drive on the freeway/highway. It should be a regular street bike not a sports bikes, drit bike, or scooter.
Take a look at a Suzuki DL-650 V-Strom with ABS brakes if you are new to motorcycling. Great engine, no problems with riding on the highway, hard bags and trunk are available, and a large following of people riding the Wee Strom.
Q: It sounds as though the noise is coming from the front break area. Any ideas on what this could beand what remedies can I take to alleviate the problem. Thanks.
no fun pushing when that happens!
Q: I‘m working on plans for an electric motorcycle conversion. I‘d like to do a Continuously Variable Transmission in order to maximize battery power and speed. The bike is shaft-driven, which makes it particularly difficult to change gear ratios in any direct drive manner, but also makes it good for a CVT. However, I‘m wondering what the effect of a CVT is on regenerative braking? More effective? Less effective? No effect? Also, any ideas for locating/salvaging and appropriate CVT? The ones I‘m familiar with are from 90‘s Honda Civics, and I‘m not sure it‘s feasible to try to adapt. Thanks!
This was how the Urba-Electric operated back in the 70's. This was a car designed and built for the February 1977 issue of Mechanix Illustrated. At the time, it was an electric car capable of 60 mph with a 60 mile range that could be built for less than $1,500. They had three voltage levels that were selected by push buttons. Stepping on the accelerator switched on the electric motor to the voltage level selected and operated a stepper motor that adjusted the gear ratio of the CVT. The effect was that the electic motor operated at one speed determined by the three push buttons and the car speed was controlled by the accelerator pedal. Should the driver ease up on the accelerator, the momentum of the car would run the DC motor at a speed higher than that determined by the voltage level selection hence charging the batteries (regenerative braking which was a novel concept back then). The Electromatic belt driven CVT used by the Urba-Electric was one used with small industrial machines and is no longer availble but similar belt driven CVT's still exist today. ATV's often have CVT's. There was a follow on project in 1977 called the Urba-Trike.
Q: the back brake on my suzuki gs500e stopped functioning. they seem to have no holding power whatsoever. before that, it worked fine...did not squeel or make any other noise. i had the bike sit for 1 week, and suddenly i had no more back brakes...what could it be? how can i troubleshoot it to figure out?
in case you had undesirable brake pads on the returned it may scrub and you are able to experience it, so in the experience that your no longer feeling that then verify your brake fluid for the returned in many circumstances you have 2 resivors one on the manage bars for front and one on the returned for the returned verify it if its finished press the brake lever each and each of how down thrice and on the 0.33 carry it open launch valve on the caliper to bleed the brake then close repeat thrice then you definately ought to have large breaks..
Q: I noticed on my motorcycle that I have electric cables coming from my clutch and handbrake. What are they? I imagine the handbrake is for the brake light. But the clutch?
Are there any switches built into your hand grips? Starter, kill switch, turn signals, etc. All those electrical items need individual wires to operate.
Q: I‘ve taken the MSF class and everything, but don‘t have my own motorcycle yet. During the class we would only primarily be in 2nd or 1st gear the whole time, so here‘s what I don‘t understand.If I‘m in 3rd gear or so and I have a red light up ahead of me which I expect will turn green pretty soon, how do I use both the brakes and downshifting at the same time to slow down? I want to use my brakes so the brake lights turn on and the car behind me knows what I‘m doing, but at the same time, I don‘t want to just pull in the clutch and brake to a point of being too slow to be in 3rd gear to start moving again. Should I hold the back brake down while downshifting so my engine speed can match my road speed?
Often you want to slow way down but you don't want to stop. Like if you're going around a corner or a tight curve. If you're in top gear, or a high gear, you pull in the clutch and shift down, then when you let out the clutch the engine speeds up and it will slow you down--that's called 'engine braking'. You're going to need that lower gear to speed up again, so it works good in both directions. With a little practice you learn to decide whether you need to downshift one gear or two, or even more, for instance if you are slowing from 75 mph to 20. If you make the wrong choice, when you speed up again you find you're either in too high or too low a gear, so you make the correction quickly, in a fraction of a second. The business of clutching and shifting is several discrete steps--roll off the throttle, pull in the clutch, shift, let out the clutch while perhaps adding a little throttle. It sounds complicated to talk about, but in practice you do it so often that it becomes like one fluid motion.
Q: How to back up your motorcycle on an extremely steep hill ( if you have to, can‘t go any forward ).bike is facing downhill and the bike is so heavy that there is no way to back it up normally. once you release the brakes the bike go forward really quick.
If you do get stuck in this position, you can walk the bike backward by using the front brake. Pull back on the bike as you release the brake, and reapply the brake when you've moved the bike as far as you can with a single pull. It might only be an inch or two. Repeat. It might take awhile, but you should be able to inch your way back up the hill.

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