• Brake shoe of truck brake brake linings  OEM System 1
  • Brake shoe of truck brake brake linings  OEM System 2
Brake shoe of truck brake brake linings  OEM

Brake shoe of truck brake brake linings OEM

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

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  • Size: 90x 9.6 x360

  • Car Make: KATO

  • OE NO.: GG-113/1 UK090-01 15240

  • Place of Origin: Jiangsu, China (Mainland)

  • Brand Name: hi-best

  • Model Number: GG-113/1 UK090-01 15240

  • color: black/brown/yellow/green

  • PC: 4

  • rivets: L7.5

  • holes: 12

  • slot: yes

  • chamfer: yes

  • grade: GG/FF

  • test: chase

  • label: according to requirement

  • noise: none

  • Packaging & Delivery

    Packaging Details:cartons,pallet
    Delivery Detail:25 days

    Specifications

    1.yutong bus brake lining
    2.MOQ:50 SETS
    3.23K, 80,000KMS
    4.CHASE TEST
    5.400 MODELS

     

     

     

    Product Description

     

      

    —————————————————————— 

    yutong bus brake lining                                   

    1.high quality&good yutong bus brake lining  
    2.material:asbestos&non asbestos
    3.400 kinds for truck,trailer,bus,etc
    4:chase test  

    ——————————————————————

    Characteristic

    • light & heavy duty brake lining  

    • Very efficient when braking and low wearing, minimum loss of efficiency on wet surface.

    • Low wear of the rotors.

    • powerful and progressive brake that doesn't fade.

    • Low lost of efficiency on wet conditions. Low to no-noise.

    • Smooth on rotors, very effective for high line tourisms.

    • Produced f or both axels, it can  be applied on the rear axel on competition vehicles of front wheel drive

     

    ——————————————————————

     

     

    Specification

     

    WVA MAFF BFMC DIMENSION DRUM DIAM APPLICATION
          19932315.1290.0 SV/41/2 203×19×235 410bpw

     

 

 

 

 

Q: I left the lock on my rotor as I attempted to ride off on my bike. I brought a used rotor and replaced the bent rotor but then realized as I took the front wheel off and spinned the wheel that there was a slight bent in the used rotor that I brought. my last resort is purchasing new rotors but I wanted to know if a machine could true the rotation of the rotor.
Two things on a motorcycle can never be in too good a shape.That's tires and brakes.Junk it and get a good one.You never machine a rotor off of a bike.
Q: i never rode but wanna ride but cant tell the outcome of my future.
There are risks in everything that you do, riding a motorcycle can be dangerous but with proper training and the more experience you get, the more alert you will become to potential dangers. If you are considering whether or not to ride, I would suggest you sign up for a motorcycle safety course. I have been riding back when Florida only required a driver's license to ride a motorcycle so I didn't have to take the course. After 25 years of riding I finally took the course and learned some things I didn't know. It is well worth it to ensure you will have a safe ride. Safety also is dependent on the person driving, if you drive crazy or impaired your risks are much greater.
Q: 18 years old graduating high school today going into the marines in nov and i wanna ride!! Im going to look at a 2002 CBR 600 F4i 11000 miles front tires bald and the guy has to jump the battery to start the bike should i trust this? also what should i look for when i go and check it out? Thank you!!
you can trust it. from my experience i can say that it is high speedy and that gives me better services. But it depends on you
Q: My motorcycle (a 1998 Kawasaki Ninja 250R EX250-F is running rich after it was laid down at a low speed (tire tucked under heavy braking on gravel, less than 3 mph.) The Kill switch was hit relatively quickly and the bike was picked up within 5 minutes and started. Afterward I lost interest in riding and left it for a few hours. Then I took it out for a ride (about 15 miles) and the entire time (particularly at lights) I smelled gas from the exhaust.The choke appears working properly (the linked slide is actuating within what appears to be its full range) and the bike is idling slightly high (just under 2k rpm.)There are no other problems of note. It took about a minute and a half to start at partial throttle to start (probably flooded the carbs.)I am not an expert by any means and was unable to find the answer online. There have been no idle or rich condition problems prior to the bike being laid on its right side.
There should be some screws on the carb that are used to adjust the amount of fuel that's allowed into the carb through the fuel needles. I don't know the layout of your carb specifically so I cant tell you which screw exactly (usually the larger screw on the upper side of the carb, always a flathead type)but either way their should be two adjustment screws and they both serve essentially the same function. Start the bike and let it warm up and do some adjustment, the tighter the screw, the less fuel that can enter the carb. Adjust untill it's running stoich again. You also might want to try talking the screws (also called needles) out of the carb and check for damage that may have occurred in the fall. Make sure all o rings in the assembly are intact. Hopefully this helps, feel lucky it's not running lean which can lead to detonation and the end of your motor.
Q: New to motorcycles. I just got a new chopper and need a few things but I need more general information on what they are/what they do. I do not have the wiring to any part of my cycle. And I know nothing about it. Can anyone point me in the right direction or any good literature to look at when inquiring about wiring my cycle? I have an ultima frame, revtech 88 engine, ultima transmission, jesse james parts, weld rims and venom tires. Thanks guys and let me know. Im new!
you've got your work cut out for you. building a motorcycle from parts is not just a part time hobby. why do you think a custom built chopper costs 30K or more? sure you can find info on the web, but not having any bike building experience will cost you later on. most bike builders make their own wiring harnesses anyway. building a bike from parts requires expertise in mechanics, electrical, having the right tools, etc. also remember this machine will have to be inspected by the DMV, and if it's a home bult one, the people who inspect have more scrutiny. good luck you will need it
Q: I am new bike rider i have a few doubts1 is it best to brake first and shift down or shift down and then brake2 when to use clutch and when not to3 also which is the safe method to drive in hills i.e. to use clutch and brake or drive in higher gears please specify for both uphill and down hill4 why engine stalls when we brake without clutchPlease give elaborate answers rather than saying go to some school or somethingi am from india
Let me just add that you want those brake lights on first, in order to communicate to the driver behind you. Read your user's manual for the up and down shift sequences, and be aware of where your tach should be when you shift.
Q: left side lower ribcage is swollen and bruised and yes it hurts bad. I laid my motorcycle down trying to make a corner too fast.
Go to the hospital mate - it could be a number of things
Q: I wear dresses frequently. Is it unsafe if I rode my motorcycle side saddle and avoided using the rear brake?
Galvanized steel will rust and corrode even though it is galvanized ( a layer of zinc is applied to the steel to resist corrosion upon the steel). So after 40 years your galvanized water pipe will have a pretty good layer of rust and corrosion and joints may begin to leak after a time. It definitly is not neccessary to change the water piping just because you have galvanized steel. However depending on the age of the house the pipes may be nearing the end of their lifespan - so to avoid a leak which could cost much because of flood damage - you would be wise to change the piping over before that point. So it's not absolutely neccessary but it is recommended if the galvanized steel is quite old (like say 35 years or more). If you are going to change the piping you will want to use PEX tubing nowadays instead of copper. It's safe for drinking water, 3 times as fast as copper because with copper each joint needs to be heated and soldered, and as a result is much cheaper- also cheaper because copper in itself is quite expensive. Depending on the size of the home (multi-level/crawlspace/attic/open or finished basement etc.) you could be looking at anywhere from $1500 CDN to $5000 or more. Generally the more access we have the quicker and cheaper it will be. A smallish rancher with a nice open crawlspace would be about $1500 and take a couple of days for one plumber to re-pipe. And hey, if you lived in Victoria BC Canada I could do it for you. lol. Have a nice day. As far as PEX being no good for UV exposure and having high maintenance costs - that is only if the plumber is too cheap to buy the red and blue UV resistant stuff.
Q: Is there an online manual for motorcycle repairs?
you just do it. first get the wheel off the bike. unbolt the caliper. and then replace em. its that simple. its more simple at a shop, like that other dude said, cuz they have the means to lift the bike and get the wheels off really quickly and easily - not because its hard to do. the best thing to do is make friends with the techs at your local bike shop. see if you can get one of em to do it for you, after hours, for beer. )
Q: I have a honda ex5, every time I press the leg brake there is a clicking sound coming from the leg area
Drum brake? the shoes are worn.

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