Auto Parts Brake Shoe for Truck OEM for ＴＯＹＯＴＡ

Auto Parts Brake Shoe for Truck OEM for ＴＯＹＯＴＡ

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 200 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Product Details

Basic Info.

Model NO.:PJ1675

Certification:TS16949, ISO9001, ISO9002

Type:Brake Shoes

Material:Steel

Position:Rear

Price:Comptetive

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.

Trademark:PUJIE

Packing:Neutral Package, Color Box, Pallet,

Standard:TS16949

Origin:Shandong, China

Production Capacity:1500000 PCS Per Month

Product Description

1). Material: Q235, Q345, 23k, 20k

(2). Features:
1. Stable Friction Coefficient
2. Abrasion resistance
3. Low noise and dustproof
4. Environmental protection, green products

(3). Certification: ISO9001: 2000, TS16949.

(4)Our advantages:
1. We can make brake shoe for Korean cars, Japanese cars, Europe cars and trucks
2. Advanced Equipments and many year's experience of produce.
3. More than 800 items
4. We can supply the samples to customers and accept the trial order with small quantity

(5). Usually neutral packing, we can also pack accoriding to customers' needs

The price will be sent to you soon after receive your OEM no. FMSI no., FBK no., etc.

Type	Brake Shoe
Certification	ISO9001: 2008, TS16949
Size	International Standard size
Apply to	Heavy trucks, Trailers, Buses
Place of Origin	China (Mainland)
Price	Negotiable
Minimum Order Quantity	100 Piece/Pieces Trial Order
Port	Qingdao Port, China
Packing Details	Negotiable
Delivery Time	30 days
Payment Terms	T/T, L/C

Auto Parts Brake Shoe for Truck OEM for ＴＯＹＯＴＡ

Q: I understand that as with anything you get what you pay for. But it blows my mind when I read something like the brakes on this bike aren‘t great but they‘ll stop you eventually in a motorcycle review. The brakes are a safety item and should be required to be of the highest quality and stopping power on ANY motorcycle. They may not need to be Brembos or whatever but budget brakes are unacceptable. No?: Who ever wrote that doesn't know crap, about brakes or anything else for that matter. Unless your racing, or going down a very large hill or mountain, riding your brakes. The quality of your brakes, is not an issue. All manufactures, use a good quality set of brakes. The only real difference, is the tire and the rider. You can take the highest quality brakes and stop in the same distance, as the stock brakes. You may or may not, get longer life out of after market brakes. But maybe only, a season or two. As long as your brakes, have enough force to lock up a wheel. Your brakes have enough, stopping power. The rest, is the rider and the tire. Mind you a touring bike, will not stop as fast as a sport bike. If you have the same size, contact patch. The heavier bike, will take longer to stop. If a rider, is used to a sport bike. A touring bike to him, will seem to take forever to stop.

Q: I am a very new motorcycle rider. I just learnt to change oil and do small works on my motorcycle. I don t know the mechanism about the brake fluid works, but I know it works using the air pressure. I opened the front brake fluid reservoir without thinking. But I closed it immediately. Do I have to bleed the brakes since I disrupted the vacuum/air pressure? Will this affect by brake performance. Please let me know. Thank you.: No, I've not ever had to do it. In future, without sounding harsh, read the manual before touching a system you are unfamiliar with. --Mikey B--

Q: How to destroy the motorcycle brake system: One word: Brake cap

Q: I have an 86‘ gsxr750 with a hydraulic clutch, I took the slave cylinder out the other day because you have to when replacing a chain and ever since I took the slave out the clutch does not work. When I take the slave out and depress the clutch all the way you can see the inner part of the slave cylinder move about 1mm or so, it‘s a very slight movement. So my question is, how much is the inner part of the slave supposed to move and is the push-rod supposed to be touching the slave or no? Because I see in the middle of the slave theres like a perfect cut out that looks like the push rod goes into.: The notch you can see i were the rod locates and it sounds to me like you have got air in the system because the rod should travel approx the same distance as the master, to bleed depress the master cylinder and release the bleeder nipple ,hold the master cylinder depressed and close the bleeder,release the master and repeat until air stops coming out the bleeder,all the time keeping the master cylinder full of fluid,when all air is gone clutch should activate

Q: I bough a used bike and after learning all the various necessary checks, realized that the dealer left the brake fluid at the low fill lines. I want to top up and got the recommended fluid for my Triumph Speedmaster (DOT 4). But I have no idea what brand is in there. I have to assume it is also the recommended DOT 4. Would it be safe to top up? Also, are you supposed to discard what‘s left in the bottle after a top-up?: Always use the recommended fluid. It will be marked on the cap of the reservoir. Different brands is not an issue, has never caused me a problem with car, truck, or motorcycle. Just use a sealed bottle, not an open partial. Brake fluid tends to absorb water - which you do NOT want in your lines. Discard, or dispose. Or, if the bottle is an appropriate size, you could do a full change with minimal leftovers. Now, a side-thought. Dealer.dealers should be making sure everything is in spec before sending it out the door. Just make sure you're checking it right before you go spending and working. If the bars or the controls have been moved, the level lines on the front reservoir will have moved as well (common on used bikes). Another thing that will show low level is pad wear. It is possible that the pads are worn, yet still sufficient. If this is the case, any fluid added will be excess when you change pads.

Q: Why open the motorcycle before the first brake start: Do not start the first step can not start with the rear brake safety

Q: For instance, does it wear out the clutch a lot more?does it save the brakes from wearing out? basically, is it good practice to use the engine to brake? and i'm talking about doing it sensibly, changing down gear at the right time, rather than jamming it into third at 100mph: 8-10IK, if the pressure is kept up.

Q: I am looking for some opinions on the aftermarket clutch and front brake handles sold on EBay.Specifically the ones from China and Taiwan. If you have used these handles what do you think about them.Do they fit properly? Will they last? Or are they just a piece of junk.: I have one fitted on my brake, the range of adjustment is less and doesn’t seat quite as well but it is up to the job.

Q: KZ 440 disk brake.: The first step is to figure out why it is saggy. I would change the fluid and the brake pads (if less than half). Use a good brake line vacuum and flush the old fluid out. Open the line just enough to get it started and keep the master cylinder full. I had one of these bikes and the fluid was never changed, and the fluid had turned to a gel. Once I cleaned everything out.it was like new. Good luck with it

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