• TDA Series Slurry Pump Equipment for Gold Mine System 1
  • TDA Series Slurry Pump Equipment for Gold Mine System 2
  • TDA Series Slurry Pump Equipment for Gold Mine System 3
TDA Series Slurry Pump Equipment for Gold Mine

TDA Series Slurry Pump Equipment for Gold Mine

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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1. Specifications

1.Model: TD 
2.Material: high chrome alloy or rubber or ceramic 
3.Flow Rate: 10.8-5400m3/h 
4.Head: 3-118m 
5.ISO9001:2008 

2. Application

Various centrifugal pumps for pumping heavy slurry in agriculture,petrochem,manufacturing,energy and mining.

 

3.Features


1) Decrease electricity consumption and increase pump life


Our uniquely designed pumps limit slurry contact thus the efficiency is significantly higher and hence very big conventional slurry pumps can be replaced by a pump with a 20% of more smaller motor without affecting pumping performance. If energy bills and high cost of ownership is of concern, these pumps are the answer.

2) Lime and ash applications

Lime and ash pumping applications are particularly difficult for centrifugal slurry pumps because acceleration inside the pump causes the slurry to clump together into a solid clay degrading performance. We have a unique solution proven to work more efficiently and outlast conventional pumps. 

3) High viscosity liquids

Superior throughput rates compared to gear and vane pumps using a unique new design. Great for bitumen, all emulsions and fats.

 

4.Material

 

1. high chrome alloy: strong abrasive resistance

2. rubber: corrosive resistance

3. ceramic: abrasive & corrosive resistance, high temperature resistance and cavitation resistance (Please refer to detailed introduction as follows)

TDA Series Slurry Pump Equipment for Gold Mine


5. FAQ

1       Are CNBM pumps available in DIY stores?

Yes, currently, we’re available for DIY stores all over the world.

2       Where do I have to send pumps for service?

You must send them to the CNBM PUMP Service Point or, after contacting Customer Care, to the CNBM PUMP service center in China.

3       Are your pumps acid-proofed?

To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.


Q: coolant leaking from weep hole on water pump need to know what i need to remove to replace or should i call mechanic
Take an autoshop class.
Q: I installed a new water pump on a Cherokee straight-6 engine, the upper radiator hose is not heating up and the engine is starting to make a funny noise. The thermostat is new and was working fine before. The coolant reservoir is full and no more coolant will drain to radiator / engine. Anyone know why waterpump is not circulating coolant?
You okorder
Q: the outboard runs fine and pumps water out with muffs on but when i put it in the water it doesn't pump any water at all. could it be that the impeller needs replacing? what do you think?thanks
Replacing okorder /
Q: What is the easiest way to remove a water pump?
drain radiator. remove both 21mm motor mount bolts from subframe (front and rear). drain radiator. remove overflow/washer bottle. remove drive belt. remove 8mm bolt that hold lower watertube to front cover. remove lower water tube from water pump. remove heater hoses from water pump. slightly lift engine with floor jack. remove water pump pully. remove water pump. if you still cant get it you will need to remove the 4 studs that go through the water pump. now its just that easy to do
Q: Fully automatic self-priming pump
It's difficult to answer your question only from the name you give! There are many automatic self suction pumps on the market. Generally, the pump outlet is equipped with a pressure switch. It starts automatically when the pressure is low, and stops after a certain pressure.If the pump outlet is the pool (water tank), then it is not a simple "automatic self-priming pump".It is an automatic water supply system. The whole system includes water pump, water tank, liquid level meter, electromagnetic starter (contactor), switch and so on
Q: First I need to take off the belt, remove power steering pump, remove water pump bolts (the bolts are various length), remove water pump pulley (from old pump), install pulley on new pump, install new pump (with gasket and bolts in the right holes), install power steering pump, install belt. Is this the correct order? Can somebody throw any tips at me (somebody who has done it on this vehicle). It's a 2001 WJ with a 4L.
The surface on the engine block is not cleaned properly and is not allowing the new gasket to seal correctly. The other possibility is you have a defective replacement pump. This does sometime occure with parts from the national chains. inspect it closely to make sure the casing is not cracked if it is you need to take it back and get another one.
Q: I have a 2000 A4 1.8 T with 91 k miles on it. I went to the dealer for my oil service. I told them that I hear a quot;clinkingnoise when I start the car and that it goes away after the car runs for 5 minutes. I told them to check this also. They diagnosed and said that the water pump has gone bad and needs to be replaced. Since it was close to 105 K miles, I might as well change the timing belt. Total charges for both is 1250. And they also see that Cam Seals starting to leak oil. Since I was doing the timing belt, I might as well change them too. Additional cost to do them is 950. So the total for all three comes down to 2200. I bought the car at 90 K and checked it at Firestone and they said it was cool. They noticed an oil leak but said it was not anything major that needs to be taken care of right away. Do you think the dealer is taking me for a ride here? I just drove 500 miles and would things go this bad all of a sudden? Or should I make the replacements? Please advise.
Do you mean US Dollars? I mean, the prices you've mentioned are just insane! Even for an A4 the parts shouldn't cost more than two or three hundred dollars in total...And there is no way that the labour should be that much. I think you're being over-quoted by 200 or 300 percent! I'd say get another quote. Hopefully one of the ace mechanics on here can give you more precise figures but you are definitely being taken for a ride... EDIT: I just did web search and there are reputable traders offering a kit with the timing belt, tensioner and so on and a new water pump for about $240 all up. The seals aren't more than fifty dollars. Actually I just found a genuine replacement water pump on OKorder for $70, so I'd recommend you do some searching...(I can't post links to dealers because I can get reported for spamming for that, but if you google (that's a verb! lol!) A4 1.8 T with 2000 and water pump you'll find several suppliers.)
Q: My well water pump runs constantly. The manual says it should kick off at 50 psi, it only gets to 48 (moves to 45 rather quickly, slow to 48). Water isn't an issue. Turned off all water to house, and still gets to 48, so I believe I can exclude leak somewhere in the house.One place I called said it could be a bit of grit in the jet pump when I called. This seems like it could cost big bucks. Could I suggest for the service man to check anything else?
Some things you could check for yourself. The volume control on the end, middle of the tank. This has a rubber in it and could have a Small hole. Second, the diaphragm that controls the switch may have a ding in it, it would be hard to see or check, listen for any leaks. Make sire you use plumbers putty on all your fittings. If all else fails, call the pump guy.
Q: My car is overheating and i don't know why just trying to rule out as many options as possible.Things it is most likely not: blown gasket/cracked head, both replaced 2 years ago and no tell tale signs I will be doing a block test soon, thermostat replaced it and put the old one in hot water and it opened, hoses replaced with new one two years ago, no leaks pressure test a few days ago. Things yet to be ruled out The radiator being clogged or not allowing good airflow, water pump impeller failure.
water pump is driven by the serpentine belt. if your belt is slipping then it wont run your water pump, so you could try getting another belt for like 20 bucks at an auto store. the heater is run electrically. well more importantly by a 'blower motor'. it could even be the blower motor resistor, they are connected to the blower motor, and usually have green tape on them. most likely it is going to be the water pump from what you have described
Q: It hasnt rain in quite a while, but I havent had any problems with the water or pressure, but it seems like the pump is always quot;onquot;. I purchased this house almost a year ago, never had a well, so I now very little about it. I moved in December, rain season here in NC, and remember the pump going on and off, now its constantly running, Is it normal for the pump to be running that much? any websites to read up on how a water well works?thanks
In the first place the pump should be able to run constantly without a problem, they're made to do this. In the second place go check your tank, see what the pressure is. You must have a water logged tank First: unplug the electric to the pump and then drain the tank completely. Once this is done make sure the tank is drained, plug it back in, wait and see where it stops at, the pressure. It should be about 55 to 65 pounds. When it stops have someone flush the toilet, it should slowly go down, it may settle without turning on, some do. If so, flush it again. Watch it again. When it starts up, keep your eye on it, it should go back to where it was to start with. If it doesn't then the volume control on the end of the tank, with the small tubing coming from it to the switch is out and should be replaced. You have to turn it all off again, drain the tank and replace the volume control. If the switch doesn't stop but, it comes to the end and doesn't open to stop and keeps running, then your switch control is shot and you'll have to replace that. If you have a bladder tank, it should say on the side, then you should empty the tank, as in the upper questions and then using an air pump put in about 38 pounds or whatever the tank says to put in the bladder, then fill it with water again. See if that's the problem.

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