• Stainless Steel Sanitary Pump System 1
Stainless Steel Sanitary Pump

Stainless Steel Sanitary Pump

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Stainless Steel Sanitary Pump

Product Name:Sanitary Pump(centrifugal pump, mixing pump, lobe pump and self-priming pump)
Description:Designed according to 3A standard, widely used for transfer viscous media in the food-processing, beverage, cosemtics and pharmaceutical industries
Material:SS304/SS316L/1.4301/1.4404
Max. Flow:90m3/h / 395 GPM
Max.pressure:12bar/ 174PSI
Max. working temperature:120 C / 248 F
Max. rev:1450/2900/3600 rmp
Rotor Type:2-leaves, 3-leaves, butterfly, signal butterfly
Mechanical seal:SIC/SiC/EPDM(Standard)
Motor power:0.75kw, 1.1kw, 1.5kw, 2.2kw, 3kw, etc.
Sealing option:Sanitary single mechanical seal/Double mechanical seal with cooling system
Voltage:110V, 220V, 380V
Motor:ABB, 50hz/ 60hz
Surface treatment:Inner polished and Sandblast outside
Availably connection:Clamp, Thread Butt weld, Flange
Availably standard:DIN, SMS, 3A, RJT, ISO/IDF
Operated:Electic
Certificate:3A/54-02 (1580), PED/97/23/EC, FDA.177.2600, ISO9001/2008
Application scope: Dairy, food, beverage, pharmacy, cosmetic, etc
Packaging Details:Plywood case or customerized. Or as per the request of customers


Q:I'm going to buy a pump to take water from a lake and use it to water the grass at my cottage. I would like to run at least 2 hoses at the same time. I'm looking at one that's 3/4 horse. Is this too small? The yard is a little more than an acre.
A 3/4 horse pump usually has a one inch suction and 3/4 inch outlet and is more than enough to water one acre. Remember, you don't have to water every day or even cover the entire acre all in one day. The industrial/agricultural pump mentioned before (4 inch? 6 inch? Or more?) is intended for use on dozens of acres per day.
Q:We have a low area in our back yard. The previous owner had a pump installed. The flow switch is in the ground at the lowest point of the yard. The actual pump is 2 feet or so, higher up. We have not had to use it much. But last week, when we have the big storm, it stopped working. It some how worked again, but pumping a lot slower, then it stop pumping again. With this pump, I had to add water to get it primed. The last time I try to add water, the water drains instantly. Any one how what could be wrong with it? It was suggest a seal was broken. Thanks for your help.
If you say that the pump is 2 feet higher you must have a hose onthe suction side of the pump it probably has a foot valve on the end of the hose it must be hung open thats why when you try to prime the the the water flows thru check to see if there is any debris holding the check valve open if there is clean it out close the valve prime with water and try to pump
Q:My car overheats in hot temperatures I have try everything except replacing the water pump and radiator how can I tell when its time to change each one and is it a do-it-yourself job
Boomer is right in what to check first. but in this order. Check that the fan is working properly. Check that the radiator is clean and not clogged. Replace the thermostat. Replace the Water pump. Depending on the car/truck, is what dictates how hard it is to do. On older cars (a chevy 350) It takes 15 minutes for a novice to replace, On newer cars it varies greatly, as some are behind the timing belt and all other accesories,(plymouth breeze takes about 15hours for a novice) and some are just as easy as older cars.
Q:Today I was installing a new water pump on my 1999 grand Prix. When tightening the bolts one of them snapped off. Now the pump leaks from that broken bolt. I was wondering if I would be able to stop the leak using some sort of sealant or would I have to take the car in to get the bolt removed?
The bolts around the pump have several reasons and one of them is for proper mounting, another is when engine cooling system and block expand when engine is running gaskets dont leak, ect. Yes, that bolt has to be removed, so that bolt hole can be used. If you have enough mechanical ability to remove and replace the pump, with the proper tools, you could do it.
Q:how can i put in a water pump for a1994 bonniville sse?
1994 Pontiac Bonneville V6-3800 3.8L Vehicle Level Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Cooling System Water Pump Service and Repair Service and Repair Notes TOOL REQUIRED J 38185 Hose Clamp Pliers J 36660 Torque Angle Meter REMOVAL Engine coolant. Electrical center and reposition. Loosen water pump pulley bolts. Drivebelt. Water pump pulley. Power steering pump mounting bolts and reposition. Bolts from water pump. Water pump. Clean Water pump mating surfaces. INSTALLATION Gasket and water pump. Bolts to water pump using Torque Angle Meter. Tighten Long bolts to20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.) + 40 degrees. Short bolts to 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.) + 80 degrees. Water pump pulley, do not tighten bolts. Power steering pump with mounting bolts. Drivebelt. Tighten water pump pulley bolts. Tighten bolts to 13 Nm (115 inch lbs.) . Electrical center in place. Engine coolant. Inspect for leaks. ? 2008 ALLDATA LLC
Q:Difference between primary hot water pump and two hot water pump
A hot water pump is a water pump circulating between the boiler and the heat exchanger, and the two hot water pump is a circulating water pump between the heat exchanger and the user. That is, there is no relationship between a water pump and heating users.
Q:Would a bad water pump make a whinning sound when the engine is reved.....ive checked everything off as to why my car is running so hot and im down to the water pump.....ive put a New thermostat....no leaks anywhere.....no oil in coolant....no coolant in water.....no white smoke.....Fans do turn on.....new colant and i bleed the air out.....but the engine is still running really hot....my car calls for about 13 quarts of coolant but upon refil it took only about 4 quarts...... .. . uld this be signs of my water pump failing.....the pump is not leaking and when i took the housing off the water pump and turn the engine the blades did rotate...but at a higher rpm with the car together i heared weird noies kinda like a whinning sound from the water pump.....1995 Oldsmobile Aurora194,000Northstar 4.0 V8
NOTE... GM had a problem with the radiators filling with crap. If you can't put 13 qts. of coolant in it then you have a plugged radiator. Replacement is required.
Q:my heater in my 94 ford ranger went out about a month ago today i flushed the heater core and it worked for a while and started going out again after i was driving for 15 to 20 mins. the hose going into the heater core was warm but coming out wasnt. could it have gotten clogged again or could it be something else.
You need to find the Heater Core water valve.. That's the part that works as the TEMP. Control.. Water Pumps don't die slowly..and leak tremendously.. === Sometimes the Water Control valve(seizes).. So..you need somebody to throw the TEMP Lever back and forth..until you can find the valve location.. You may see the cable moving--put not acting upon the valve.. Usually the valve is shot--spraying a lubricant at it won't do anything.. It needs to be removed--too be worked upon.. Also check all the heater hoses for wear--damage--you may need to rebuild that part of the system.
Q:Not sure of the year model but think it is a 1991 to 1995 Jayco 2500FS bumper pull trailer. I bought it to put on a deer lease. One of the previous owners had taken out the water tank which I plan on replacing. I can't find the water pump to see if I need to replace it as well. Also, if you know about how the pump knows when to kick on i.e. pressure switch, push button or what. I know I could take it to have repairs done but enjoy the diy thing. I am in the process of finding out the exact year model as well. Thanks!
having had many travel trailers the water pump is usually in a cabinet or under a bed or couch with a lot of plastic water lines near where you screw the water hose into the side of the trailer. and they are usually a preset psi from the factory so that is usually nothing to have to worry about and most have an on off switch located in the traier by the kitchen sink.And if the hot water heater is no good look into a tankless water heater it will save you money in the long run but initially you have to have a vent installed up through the roof away from a roof air vent. Another suggestion everytime you move a travel trailer they get the crap pounded out of them and someone needs to go up on the roof with a ladder and/or a plank that goes across the width so there is no weight standing on a roof to make dents or pop seams. Use some plastic stuff like plasticote available at wal mart after you move the trailer and set it up go up and make sure to double coat any of the seams that need it. I crank the heat up inside the trailer and do a double coat the heat rising will put a skin on the plasticote in a few hours instead of 12 or more. and the double coat gets any cracks missed the first time around. After that check it once a year if the trailer stays there.
Q:There are heard buzzing, but can not move and no death card, is not a bad capacitor, how much is the direct standard capacitance it?
The motor is sure of electricity, isn't it? Is there a low voltage or broken phase (three-phase motor), these cases will cause the motor does not turn, or low speed (easy to block), so should be measured with a universal meter. Maybe the boot capacitor is broken. Or smell the smell of burning. It might be a short circuit between the motor windings. (bearings should be hard to break). Look for repairs if you suggest. You may not be good. Oh, capacitor. You can measure good and bad with a universal watch. If the capacitor is replaced, it is better to choose the same capacitor as the original configuration parameter.

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