Split Casing Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 set/month
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Split Casing Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation
1.Split Casing Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation Description
The Single Stage Double Suction Split Casing Centrifugal Pump is designed for Irrigation, The casting is axially split, which permits removal of the complete rotor whish moving either piping or motor. Pumps generating high heads have double volute to reduce radial forces. Replaceable wear ring protect the casting at the impeller running clearances. Flange drilled to ISO, DIN, BS or ANSI. The close double suction impeller gives practically zero axial forces. Each impeller is statically and dynamically balanced according to ISO 1940.The pumps have a reduced number of parts and extensive interchangeability, which leads to minimum levels of inventory for customers and faster parts delivery. Vertical installation is a standard option with the same upper and lower casing parts. It is mounted for a space-saving configuration or when apace is at a premium. Soft packing or mechanical seal, grease or oil lubricated bearing is optional. Oil lubrication is with constant level oiler.
2.Main Features of Split Casing Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation
•Attractive design
•High efficiency, steady performance
•Big capacity, medium pressure
•High concentricity of components
3.Split Casing Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation Specification
Casing | Cast Iron, Ductile Cast Iron, Cast Steel, Stainless Steel or Duplex S.S |
Impeller | Cast Iron, Bronze, Duplex S.S, Stainless Steel |
Shaft | C-Steel, Cr-Steel, Stainless Steel |
Wearing Ring | Cast Iron, Brass, Stainless Steel |
Capacity/Q | Up to 25000m3/h, Up to 110000gpm |
Head/H | Up to 280m, Up to 800 feet |
Temperature/T | Up to 200degree |
Speed/n | 2900/1450/980/740/580 rpm 3500/1750/1180/890/710rpm |
4.Picture of Split Casing Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation
5.FAQ
① What is your product range?
Centrifugal pump, slurry pump, gravel pump, clean water pump, sewage pump, chemical pump, single stage
pump, double suction pump, industry pump, oil pump, paper pulp pump, mud pump, self-priming pump, pipe
water pump, boiler water pump, etc.
② Are you a manufacturer?
Yes, we have been in manufacturing and marketing industry centrifugal pump over 20 years.
③ What information should I let you know if I want to get a quotation?
Pump capacity, pump head, medium, medium temperature, pump material, quantity, if possible, please also provide the pump model you are using now, price will be calculated as per the pump model, if not, we will recommend relevant product for reference.
- Q: Alright,I happen to be the only man in the house and the plumbing is a bit faulty. You see,the machine has been filled with water as necessary and was ignited. It sounds perfectly fine and you can feel water run through the pipes connected to it, when touched. But it's been an hour now and the taps are not producing water. Please can anyone help? Under normal circumstances,there should be enough water now but the taps are all empty despite the water running through the pipes. What can I do? Please help. I filled it with even more water and there's no result. Help please. Thank you.
- not knowing the specific system, prolly correct. pipe frozen and what you feel is just bypass/recirc. as the water has no where to go. or there's an external leak somewhere under the house? keep doing that, depending on the system, and it's condition, might burn up a pump. many different kinds of systems. for a house or motor home, usually have one that's pressure activated. that is, pressure drops as a tap is opened, regualator sees that, starts the pump running. that would be a system that employs a reservoir. probably air charged. to sense pressure drops.a nd max pressures to shut the system off. but that may not be what you have. many different configs. USAF trained hyd/pneu tech. glorified plumber i guess.
- Q: Yesterday morning I was looking under my hood and I noticed that I was leaking water. It looked like the leak was coming from the water pump.I had to get to work, which is close by so I topped off the radiator and went to work. When I got to work I looked under the car and saw no leaking. I figured the radiator had ran dry although the car hadn't overheated, After work I started to fill the radiator to get home. I saw that I had leaked a little fluid but not much. I topped it off and picked up my son then went home. No overheating. No leaking. Today I've ran several errands and I've had no problems. What do you think was going on with my water pump yesterday?
- you do not purchase an element like that from OKorder. you purchase it from autozone or a save the position you are able to take it again if it truly is no longer the right one. bypass to the autozone website, save your vehicle it is going to pull up what's accessible for that area grant you with a cost. then you actually can bypass purchase it on the shop. i love their web site too because you are able to type in 'sensor' it is going to pull up each and each of the sensors for that vehicle. That facilitates at the same time as attempting to be sure out what it would want to be. Btw, you want to scrape the engine block floor incredibly good with a razor blade a putty knife in all likelihood use some type of solvent to sparkling it or you'll remorseful about it. do no longer purchase a remanufactured water pump both. you'd be redoing it in 5 yrs. Oh i meant you may want to in case you hardly ever rigidity the vehicle, yet no longer in case you rigidity it commonplace.
- Q: what makes pump come on every 10 seconds when water is on
- You should have a pressure tank or bladder tank (same thing) in the plumbing after the pump. If you do have a pressure tank it could be waterlogged.. most all tanks in the last 20 years have been bladder type tanks. the bladder may have leaked inside and filled the tank with water leaving no room for expansion. it should have a valve on the top of it like a valve stem on a tire. Check the pressure on it with the pump off. it should be about 4 pounds more than your pump cut on pressure. Or you could have a bad pressure switch. There are LOTS of kinds of pressure switches, so I won't even try to tell you how to check it. but the pump should run till the pressure is built up in the tank then sut off and not come back on again till the pressure on the lines is lowered to the cut in pressure on the pressure switch.without more specific information or a pic I can't help much more. First thought is pressure tank needs checked or replaced. Good luck.
- Q: how much is it to replace timing belt and water pump on a Chrysler voyager 2002?????
- Timing belt can be be anywhere from $200 to $400,but make sure a pro does it beaches if it's put on wrong and off time it can mess up your engine and that would be in the thous..this happened to me.. Water pump idk
- Q: i changed my fuel pump and now my car wont turn over....any help? maybe starter?
- From the info you give, I would have to say, MAYBE!
- Q: I had a re-manufactured water pump installed and after 14 months I started smelling my radiator occasionally. Never suspected the pump since my original pump lasted 60,000 miles and was still fine when they replaced it feigning quot;it is customary to replace water pump with timing beltwhen in actuality my Hyundai Elantra just needs the pump checked every 60,000 miles. The re-manufactured water pump was diagnosed leaking for sure after 20 months. Anyway I believe the leaking pump which didn't get discovered for at least 4 to 6 months caused the early demise of my radiator. Does that make sense?Thanks,Mitzi
- i strongly disagree. a leaky pump, loosing fluid, replaced by air via a recovery system, will create excess water jacket pressures. ergo, the radiator. even if it has air trapped in it. that excessive pressure, if the rad is marginal/old, can cause rad leaks. any seasoned mechanic out there has experienced a vehicle that had air in it, and be so hot as to charge the system. on some, you can actually here them go bang as water/coolant, flows into a part of the systems that has just air. that sends pressure shock waves through out the system. i've experience some so hot, they won't shut off. dieseling per say. ---------- EDIT, Michael sir. i'm an ex fighter jet hydraulic/pneumatic tech USAF. 40 yr auto mechanic. 5 yrs on Harley's (iron blocks). been dealing with the use of compressed fluids and gas for some time now. ex boeing employee on the 747 as well. i just don't ahve all that in my profile. mostly, i just let facts speak for themselves. weather or not an OP see's that is up to them. --------- pressure can built up faster than it can be bleed off in *some* cases. especially if it's a slow leak. those were generic statements. meaning, they are a possibility. not out of the realm of possibility, and would be far from the first time it ever happened, that a bad pump can cause other parts of the coolant system to malfunction. i've seen marginal rads, hoses, and even heater cores go as a result of over pressureazation of the water jacket. but i meant no disrespect here. i will delete my seasoned mechanic remark. simply stating i have seen/experienced, in the shop, over the years, many instances like what i stated. it's not impossible!!! i'll delete all this crap too if you delete your remark. how bout it? friends?
- Q: 1.where is it located and what would I have to remove 1st to get to it. And would I need a torque wrench if so what # would it have to be at when re-installing water pump
- 4A-FE okorder /... it's an externally mounted pump. so as far as pumps go, it's relatively easy. easy for a novice. knowlegeable begginer should be able to tackle it. here's a clip for water pump replacement on a 94 rolla with the 4A-FE engine. engine bay will be slightly different. but the proccess will be exactly the same. since it is on a rolla, some of the equipment removed for ease of access maybe different on yours. may or may not need or wish to crank engine mounts. youtu.be/BiXCCA5dLM0 use that in conjunction with the manual if needed. to do it right, yes. need a torque wrench. but it can be done w/o one. though since you're asking (denotes lack of experience/no insult), i strongly suggest you rent one and use it. can be rented at most any auto parts store. prolly 20 buck for the day.
- Q: Water pump belongs to power equipment or mechanical equipment?
- Ownership of mechanical power equipment in assets
- Q: I have just replaced the timing belts on my 94 Civic Si and my 00 Elantra GLS. Both were done at different shops, but i got the same hounding to replace the water pump when doing the belt. My Elantra has 66k and my Civic 85k and i know how important the timing belt is-especially with a negative clearance engine like the VTEC. previously, i've never been told to replace the waterpump with the timing belt til now. is this just a ruse to extort more money out of me, or is there some validity in what the guy behind the counter is saying??
- Rubbish, I've been a motor mechanic for about 10-11 years now, and have never nor heard of anyone advising this. The problem is if your water pump seizes up it will strip the teeth on the belt, if the garage is worth it's salt it will check the pump before the new belt is fitted simply by spinning it, to make sure the bearings are OK.
- Q: Can a car turn off due to a water pump. I am thinking of buying a car that the water pump needs to be replaced, everything else in the car its fine, it turns on lovely but after a little while it turns off, the owner says its because of the water pump. is this possible?
- What's the make and year of the car? If the water pump is bad the car would overheat, not just shut off edit: If the water pump needs to be replaced the car should be overheating. There has to be another cause for the stalling, perhaps he meant to say fuel pump? or filter? Sounds a bit sketchy to me, have a mechanic check everything for you before you buy it, and if you get the water pump changed get a new timing belt while you're at it. I wouldn't pay more than 500 for it from what I've heard. If you can't do the work yourself you're gonna be looking at some huge mechanic bills. You could definitely find a car for a 1000 that wouldn't require any immediate repairs
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Split Casing Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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