Split Casing Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation
- Ref Price:
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- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 set/month
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Split Casing Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation
1.Split Casing Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation Description
The Single Stage Double Suction Split Casing Centrifugal Pump is designed for Irrigation, The casting is axially split, which permits removal of the complete rotor whish moving either piping or motor. Pumps generating high heads have double volute to reduce radial forces. Replaceable wear ring protect the casting at the impeller running clearances. Flange drilled to ISO, DIN, BS or ANSI. The close double suction impeller gives practically zero axial forces. Each impeller is statically and dynamically balanced according to ISO 1940.The pumps have a reduced number of parts and extensive interchangeability, which leads to minimum levels of inventory for customers and faster parts delivery. Vertical installation is a standard option with the same upper and lower casing parts. It is mounted for a space-saving configuration or when apace is at a premium. Soft packing or mechanical seal, grease or oil lubricated bearing is optional. Oil lubrication is with constant level oiler.
2.Main Features of Split Casing Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation
•Attractive design
•High efficiency, steady performance
•Big capacity, medium pressure
•High concentricity of components
3.Split Casing Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation Specification
Casing | Cast Iron, Ductile Cast Iron, Cast Steel, Stainless Steel or Duplex S.S |
Impeller | Cast Iron, Bronze, Duplex S.S, Stainless Steel |
Shaft | C-Steel, Cr-Steel, Stainless Steel |
Wearing Ring | Cast Iron, Brass, Stainless Steel |
Capacity/Q | Up to 25000m3/h, Up to 110000gpm |
Head/H | Up to 280m, Up to 800 feet |
Temperature/T | Up to 200degree |
Speed/n | 2900/1450/980/740/580 rpm 3500/1750/1180/890/710rpm |
4.Picture of Split Casing Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation
5.FAQ
① What is your product range?
Centrifugal pump, slurry pump, gravel pump, clean water pump, sewage pump, chemical pump, single stage
pump, double suction pump, industry pump, oil pump, paper pulp pump, mud pump, self-priming pump, pipe
water pump, boiler water pump, etc.
② Are you a manufacturer?
Yes, we have been in manufacturing and marketing industry centrifugal pump over 20 years.
③ What information should I let you know if I want to get a quotation?
Pump capacity, pump head, medium, medium temperature, pump material, quantity, if possible, please also provide the pump model you are using now, price will be calculated as per the pump model, if not, we will recommend relevant product for reference.
- Q: Submersible pump capacity I was 1500W, the normal use of voltage is 220 kV line 600 meters with 6 square aluminum after the start of the effluent is small, and the voltage of submersible pump is reduced to 150 volts could not use voltage of 380 volts (two).
- This is the reason why the line is too long and the power consumption is too large
- Q: I have a pontiac grand am 1996 v6 with a 3.1L 3100 SFI engine. I have a coolant leak and I think it's coming from the water pump. When the car is cool and then turned on, about 4 to 9 minutes into warming up, coolant is hitting a belt and spraying out of the car's front end. When this is happening I see that there is coolant dripping off of the waterpump housing. The coolant started to spray everywhere about 15 seconds before the radiator fan kicked in. Why would this happen when first warming up only? Can a defective thermostat cause this to happen?
- It;s the water pump.
- Q: does anyone know the proper way to take the lower gearcase off and install a new water pump kit. it is a 1986.
- This is a simple repair but I'd recommend that you get a service manual, ether a factory manual or one of the generic Seloc manuals. The key things to do are mark the trim tab so you can put it back in the same position after repairs. Drain the oil. Removing the bolt that is in the hole at the back end of the upper housing, as well as all the obvious Nuts. both above and under the cavitation plate. Put the drive in forward gear, which takes the tension off the shift shaft. Once all the nuts and bolt are loose. Jiggle the drive and it will separate from the upper housing. You now have access to the water pump housing. Remove the housing and pull it up and off the d. Shaft. Inspect fully and account for missing impeller blades. When you re assemble Lube the impeller and put the drive key in place and put the impeller in place. Slide the housing down to the impeller. You can use ether th drive shaft or the propeller to turn the drive shaft in a clockwise direction as you apply pressure on the housing, It should slide down over the impeller. Reassemble in reverse order. Slide the drive shaft up into the upper housing turning the D. shaft using the prop to turn the shaft. Watch the water tube slip into the guide tube. Once it's in place put a couple nuts on then check the gear shift to make sure it goes F-N-R. Bolt up and fill with oil. Good Luck!
- Q: Domestic pump automatic shut off the water, but also turn around, stop what happened?
- You can find a water pump factory people ask, ah, Baidu, find a corporate website, many have online advice. By the way, a site called water industry navigation, pump manufacturers included a lot, and find it may be faster.
- Q: i a wayne above ground pump i need to know how to run all my water lines
- that's conceivable which you have a small tare in the backside of the pool making it leak below the pool you could flow to a pool place and purchase a pool patch it like a huge sparkling bandage it rather is made to repair leaks in swimming pools
- Q: I have a 1997 ford ranger, during last week i noticed that the temperature started to go up, i noticed that the coolant recovery tank was empty so i added coolant and it fixed the problem, but a day later i noticed that the tank was empty again since it started to overheat again. This time i let the engine cool off and checked the radiator water levels and noticed it was dry with no water, so i added water and noticed that i was leaking from what it seems the water pump (im guessing its the water pump because is behind the engine fan, behind the belts, its hard to see), Does anyone have a possible explanation or suggestion of what i should do? Thank you i would really appreciate it.
- it sounds to me like the weep hole on the bottom of the water pump is leaking. This is what it is supposed to do when the water pump bearing gets some play. You should be able to look from under the engine and see the bottom of the water pump, it will probably look all clean as water has been running out of it. This is how you tell your water pump needs to be replaced. Generally speaking it is best to buy a NEW WATER PUMP, NOT A REMANUFACTURED OR REBUILT. The reason for this is a new water pump will last a lifetime of a vehicle generally speaking, so you only want to do this once because its a pain in the butt. and this is the time to inspect heater hoses, radiator hoses and chang the thermostat . This should solve any issues with the pump leaking, so get the front end of the truck safely up in the air, and make sure there is not a hose leaking or something simple, A shop would do a pressure test of the system and this would show them where your leak is. As a temporary measure you can leave the radiator cap loose so pressure does not build up this will keep the fluid in the vehicle, and not blow it all out the weep hole, just don't leave the cap so loose it blows off on the road somewhere, as long as water stays in, and the radiator is full you can use it.
- Q: Because the water pressure is too small, this summer with self suction pump 750W, water is big, but every time that water is used for the first time out of the water is yellow like rust, probably after the release of 10 liters will become clear, then is not, but every one hour after the water time out is rusty hair yellow, so to waste a lot of water, but accidentally brought cooked food should not be good to the body.Now come in the water is through the pump, even without electricity, partition time for the first time water will be yellow, there is no master can teach me to disassemble, which can be cleaned?. Or something else. Thank you
- The pump is iron, must be able to avoid the internal rust, and if replaced by stainless steel, no problem.There is also a way to add a filter or water purifier at the front of the pump to make it a little better.
- Q: I have a leak coming from the water pump that flows down on the side of the AC compressor before landing on the ground. I cannot verify exactly where the leak is coming from on the pump, but I am sure it is the pump leaking because it also sounds bad like rattling. My question is do I have to remove any other components, such as the AC compressor to be able to remove the water pump. I would be great full for any suggestions.Regards,Steph
- Mercedes Benz Water Pump
- Q: Can the water from the fire pump enter the roof fire tank? Why?
- Here is the concept of "fire water tank", if the roof has fire water tank, fire pump should be able to roof fire water tank water supply, as long as there is sufficient pressure on the line. However, if the roof water tank is only a living water tank, the fire pump is not started, this is the two pipelines.
- Q: the water pump from the factory has an extra hole coming out the side its the smaller one on the end of this pic.
- I would be a little hesitant on using an automotive water pump on a boat. The may seem similar however there are several key differences in the way they are made. excerpt from the below URL: In regard to the cooling systems, one of the major differences is found in the water-circulating pump. This is especially noticeable when you have a raw water cooled engine. Unlike their automotive counterpart, a marine pump works in an open cooling system. This type of system is extremely corrosive to the pump. Therefore, the pump must be altered for longevity. A marine pump has a special ceramic seal, stainless steel backing plate, and a bronze impeller to resist corrosion. An automotive style pump, with its stamped steel impeller, would fail due to corrosion in a short time. I have done this before, I boat in fresh water and my boat was raw water cooled, the pump was leaking after 2 seasons, wasn't worth the savings. The extra hole may have been for an optional closed loop cooling system on the boat or like was stated a heater or bypass line in a car.
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Split Casing Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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