Split Casing Double Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Irrigation
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 set/month
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Split Casing Double Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Irrigation
1.Split Casing Double Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Irrigation Description
The Single Stage Double Suction Split Casing Centrifugal Pump is designed for Irrigation, The casting is axially split, which permits removal of the complete rotor whish moving either piping or motor. Pumps generating high heads have double volute to reduce radial forces. Replaceable wear ring protect the casting at the impeller running clearances. Flange drilled to ISO, DIN, BS or ANSI. The close double suction impeller gives practically zero axial forces. Each impeller is statically and dynamically balanced according to ISO 1940.The pumps have a reduced number of parts and extensive interchangeability, which leads to minimum levels of inventory for customers and faster parts delivery. Vertical installation is a standard option with the same upper and lower casing parts. It is mounted for a space-saving configuration or when apace is at a premium. Soft packing or mechanical seal, grease or oil lubricated bearing is optional. Oil lubrication is with constant level oiler.
2.Main Features of Split Casing Double Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Irrigation
•Attractive design
•High efficiency, steady performance
•Big capacity, medium pressure
•High concentricity of components
3.Split Casing Double Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for IrrigationSpecification
Casing | Cast Iron, Ductile Cast Iron, Cast Steel, Stainless Steel or Duplex S.S |
Impeller | Cast Iron, Bronze, Duplex S.S, Stainless Steel |
Shaft | C-Steel, Cr-Steel, Stainless Steel |
Wearing Ring | Cast Iron, Brass, Stainless Steel |
Capacity/Q | Up to 25000m3/h, Up to 110000gpm |
Head/H | Up to 280m, Up to 800 feet |
Temperature/T | Up to 200degree |
Speed/n | 2900/1450/980/740/580 rpm 3500/1750/1180/890/710rpm |
4.Picture of Split Casing Double Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Irrigation
5.FAQ
① What is your product range?
Centrifugal pump, slurry pump, gravel pump, clean water pump, sewage pump, chemical pump, single stage
pump, double suction pump, industry pump, oil pump, paper pulp pump, mud pump, self-priming pump, pipe
water pump, boiler water pump, etc.
② Are you a manufacturer?
Yes, we have been in manufacturing and marketing industry centrifugal pump over 20 years.
③ What information should I let you know if I want to get a quotation?
Pump capacity, pump head, medium, medium temperature, pump material, quantity, if possible, please also provide the pump model you are using now, price will be calculated as per the pump model, if not, we will recommend relevant product for reference.
- Q: I have had this water pump changed 2 times in 5 years is this normal for this car? It has a v6 motor.
- i wouldn't think that was normal, but what do i know? point being.....yea water pumps, in my experience, are pretty difficultly to change out....no average Joe could do it.
- Q: im attaching a motor from another filter onto my homemade filter. but i dont want to have to run a cord all the way from the pond to a powerplug. does anyone know of another way to such water into a filter without using electricity? some kind of siphon?
- 1. I had an electrician put a buried cable in the ground coming up to a weatherproof post with outlets and an on-off switch. It was not as expensive as I thought it would be. 2. You can put the water pump and filters by the house or even inside and run buried water pipes out to the pond, or just put the pump inside and have the filter by the pond which would run by water pressure or gravity. 3. A windmill or solar panel. A siphon uses potential energy stored in the water to work. Once the water has dropped through the siphon, there is no more energy to draw from and the siphon stops. A windmill or solar panel could provide the power to lift the water back up and make the process continuous, or at least while it's windy or sunny. However when pricing these two options even though they would be very cool if you have the large yard to accommodate them, they turn out to cost much more than either 1. or 2. and have much higher maintenance costs associated with them. 4. If it's a very small pond, you can get a solar powered filter/fountain that looks like a floating plastic lily pad. My son had one of these, but it only worked on the sunniest of days, and lasted one summer before wearing out. If you add a large block of filter foam over the intake it may last a little longer. Rinse it out two or three times a week.
- Q: I posted this earlier but nobody really answered my question . if my water pump is clearly on the serpentine belt I t need to replace the timing chain to get to it correct? The bolts holding the pump in are around it near the timing chain cover but they don't look like they are inside it. the pump is clearly driven by the serpentine so should I be fine not removing my timing belt to fix the pump? its leaking. Also I know you should replace the timing chain+tensioner but I inspected the chain 400 miles ago its properly tensioned the belt is in good condition its a chain it will last the life of the car its not the cheap belts.
- If you can change the pump without removing the timing belt then go for it, you are lucky. I don't replace the tensioner unless it needs to be replaced, usually they last a long time. I replace the timing belts every 60,000 miles, but usually you can go to 80,000 maximum but I don't like to take it to the last minute, not safe.
- Q: looking for ideas and info to build a simple and rustic wind powered pump for a backyard pond. I don't want to use any elecricity and I would like to create something that once its made, will be trouble free and simplistic in operation. I esp. want info regarding the vane design and the method of drawing the water. I would appreciate any web sites, but I don't want to buy any pre-designed thing or plans.
- My Grandpa could show you one that was installed in front of his house about 90 years ago. Check out a farm ranch supply store. Those guys are freakin geniuses.
- Q: Ok i was wondering which is the from hose off of the motor the bottom or top since i thinl my heater core hose are reversed and i only get nuke warm air and not hot and yes ive got a brand new heater core, new anti freese, new thermostat and gaskets and all hoses are clear and not rust in the system
- I think the info you are looking for is which heater hose supplies the heater core and which hose returns the water to the system. The heater core has two connections, the bottom is usually water in, the top water out. Generally the hose from the top of the engine supplies the heater core and the hose going to the water pump is returning back to the system. Having cleared that up, it doesn't really matter, even if the hoses are reversed, coolant will flow through the heater core regardless, unless there is a control built into one of the heater hoses that actually cuts off the flow of coolant to the heater core. Some trucks have them some don't. If yours does, check that it is working properly or remove it altogether. Now let's examine the possible source of your problem. I would look at either the heater control in the cab or the heater box itself. In the early 70's GM started using pneumatics, and vacuum operated components for their environmental controls. Vacuum operated doors opened and closed to allow airflow to different parts of the system, A/C, defroster, vents, heat, etc. A vacuum leak, a kinked hose, a bad control will cause the doors to stay closed, giving the illusion that there is no heat. By the same token, the wrong door stuck open could allow excessive outside air to mix with the heated air effectively cooling it off, but that is not likely. Check the main control in the cab, and the vacuum actuators and hoses. If by some chance yours still has the steel cables, make sure they are well lubricated, connected, and functioning.
- Q: In the past 9 months, Ive went through 6 or 7 gallons of antifreeze, I was told this was not normal. Ive had my coolant tank flushed 4 times this year, only to be told thats not normal and one lasts a few years. Now that its colder outside my car takes a while to run hot of course, but during the summer it ran hot in about 15 minutes tops. I got a brand new coolant tank before I got another flush because I did have a leak, but that did not combat the problem. I had my radiator looked at and I was told thats fine. So im thinking either a cracked head gasket or a bad water pump...help please. im getting tired of putting money into this car only for the same stuff to keep happening.
- You don't say 4 or 6 cyl. but you need to get a pressure test done on cooling system this will tell you where your leak is whether internal or external. Have you had the thermostat changed, rad. cap tested. I don't know why you've been dumping antifreeze in rad. without getting checked. I think you need to find a Pro. that knows what to check instead of i was told this that and the other. If V6 make sure timing cover is checked for leak, common problem. There are just so many things it could be, so see a Proffesional.
- Q: Is this a symptom of a bigger problem or do I just need to replace the water pump?
- Your water pump may have a bad seal or gasket, would be best to replace water pump.
- Q: The pump works and water goes to the house from the reserve tanks but there can be long delays before it cuts in after mains pressure is lost. After it stops the pressure gauge falls back slowly to zero. Pressure vessel is a sphere has a valve on top. Any suggestions ?
- Espa Water Pumps
- Q: 99 Cherokee I6. There is low pitched noise coming from the area of the water pump and alternator. Like a grinding grumbling. The water pump pulley is not loose and will not rock back and forth. Nothing is leaking. Tomorrow is forecast as icey and I have a choice of sending my wife 30 miles each way to work in the Cherokee or a 2005 Mustang, which is absolutely terrible in the snow or ice. I can get the car into the shop on Thursday for diagnosis and repair. Since the pulley is not loose I am thinking it will be OK for another day even if it is the water pump bearings. Thoughts?
- nothing is leaking. you're not even sure, positively that the water pump is the culprit. I learned something last week, that if you spray wd40 on the offending pulley it will silence it. The other pulleys of course will not be affected.
- Q: After the pump has the control box, but also the power distribution box, the control box and the distribution box is not the same box?
- What you are saying is not a concept. The function of the control box is to control one or more equipment and to protect the equipment. The function of the distribution box is to distribute the power. The control box is connected to the power box, and the power box may be responsible for several devices at the same time. The distribution box is just one of them.
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Split Casing Double Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Irrigation
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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