SLZA API610 standard chemical processing pump

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: -

Supply Capability:: 1000 unit/month

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SLZA series processing pumps are horizontal, singe stage, back pull-out design, they meet 10th version of ANSI/API610-2004 CENTRIFUGAL PUMPS FOR OIL, HEAVY CHEMICAL AND NATUAL GAS INDUSTRY and National standard GB/T3215-2007 of CENTRIFUGAL PUMPS FOR OIL, HEAVY CHEMICAL AND NATUAL GAS INDUSTRY .

Application range
For transferring clean and little contaminated, lower and high temperature, chemical neutral and corrosive liquid.
Mainly for:
Refinery, petrol-chemical industry, coal processing and
lower temperature engineering
Chemical industry, paper-making, pulp, sugar and such
like normal processing industry
Water supply plant and sea water desalination
Heat supply and air-conditioning system
Auxiliary system of power station
Environment protection engineering
Ships and offshore engineering

Operating parameter
Size: 25~400mm
Capacity: up to 2600m³/h
Head: up to 300m
Operating pressure: up to 7.5MPa
Operating temperature: -80 ~+450
Detailes will be referred to drawing of P-T, according to different temperature to select right materials

Q: What are the conditions for the series and parallel connection of the pumps?: Parallel pumps: the pump is required to lift the same. This effect is to increase traffic.Pumps in series: requirements are similar to the flow of water pumps. This allows you to increase the total head and recommend adding small pressure tanks during the series connection.

Q: I replaced the water pump on my 1997 acura cl 3.0 v6 vtec. I set the timing how alldata said to. (Lined up marks on timing drive pulley and both cam pulleys) and put it all back together. Now when I start it the motor runs rough for about 45 seconds then it smooths out but won't rev past 3000 rpm. What are some possibilites it could be?: Ive seen this before. u replaced the water pump, which means u drained the coolant, replaced the pump, and filled it back up again. When u filled it back up u created big air pockets in the coolant system. Small air pockets are always in the system, but wont cause a problem. Big air pockets cause the engine to idle rough, like its misfiring. Then when u go to press on the gas it stalls, or it wont rev past a certain point. Ive had this problem myself a few times, replacing water pumps and lower radiator hoses. About the best thing u can do is just let the car run and idle for an hour, maybe even 2! Then rev it when its still parked at a higher RPM, just to flush out those pesky air pockets. I know it wastes gas, but thats what i think the problem is. Air pockets are something that most ppl dont think about when they drain and refil the cooalnt components.

Q: I suddenly have this rattle noise whenever the engine is running but it diminishes with speed. It almost sounds like spark knock but spark knock would get worse at speed. It could be the water pump. Would a water pump get louder with speed, or go away as this does? I feel a tiny bit of in-out motion in the shaft but not side to side. Car is a Geo Metro and does have hydraulic lifters.: sounds like a pulley or bearing noise

Q: I would like to have a water pump/valve that I can tie into my house water and will run on a timer. Kind of like a sprinkler system but not so expensive an on a much smaller scale. Basically what I am trying to do is set up an auto-watering (from the tap) system for my animals when I am away for a day or two. I know this is more in the lines of a pet category but than again - not really.: You can find the timers at any walmart or big lots, they have outdoor timers (they normally use them for christmas lighting) for around $6, just make sure that they can withstand the amperage of your pump since you are not mentioning the size of it.

Q: I think its the water pump, I fill the coolant with water everyday and it is empty once I make it to my destination.: I know this isn't exactly what you asked but if you have the v6 engine changing the water pump on this car is a very easy job. There is a video on youtube that shows you exactly how to do it, just search water pump gm 3.1. Just be sure to get all of the old gasket off and use rtv on the new gasket. You could probably change it yourself for less than $50 and 1 hour if you can do basic car maintenance.

Q: I just replaced my submersable well water pump, the wire that connects the pump, the d switch, and the water tank. Everything was installed correctly and with the help of a licensed plumber. While the D switch is closed (providing power to the pump) the pump will run for about 5 seconds then shut off for about one minute. It will continue this process until the system attains proper pressure and the D switch will open, shutting off power to the pump. The pump is brand new. Why, when power is being supplied does the pump cut on and off? We have tested the current at the well head and it shows that 230 is being supplied the whole time that the D switch is closed, which is correct.: Your problem is with pressure. The air tank needs to be 2 -4 lbs below that of the setting of the D switch. I had to change my air-tank a couple of weeks back, and I had the same problem. EDIT: the current drawn should be about 24 Amps and the line voltage is 230v with resitance at 100K ohm. for the coils. Cure: Using a good tire air valve checker, make sure the air tank is about 25- 28 lbs. Turn off all the faucets or the main valve feeding the house or garden lines. Give power to the pump. Turn the D valve nut (the one with the spring) **up** one half turn. Turn on the valve and let the water run and listen for the pump working. It should run for no more than 2 minutes. (there is a thermal cut-off in the pump that saves you blowing the pump up). When the thermal cut-off disconnects the power, don't worry, all is well. It is trial and error with the setting and is a pain in the butt, but you will get the setting right, I assure you. Remember, turn up 1/2 turn at a time... Best of luck. XX

Q: I live in a residential/country area, and I have a well pump down cellar. I notice that, even if I am not using any water, nothing is running (toilet, etc) it tends to cycle on and off every hour or so. The pressure is always good, so that's not an issue. I am just wondering....is it normal for it to do this?: No problems. It just means that the check valve in the pump is leaking off slightly and the pressure is dropping down to kick the relay in. As long as it doesn't do it every few minutes when water isn't being used, you have nothing to worry about. If you have a facet with a drip, it will do the same thing.

Q: Submersible pump coupling, what does this coupling mean?: Coupled with: "two people together in the cultivated land" means, in Chinese, that is, even things linked together meaningCoupling, as the name suggests, means the connection of the pump and the pipe.Submersible pump, used coupling or coupler, because the pipeline extends into the water, the water will not see, through the coupling, pump automatic clamping to the pipe end, simple and quick.

Q: My well is 58 meters deep, the water level is 20 meters, the water level has not been measured. What's the maximum water pump I should choose?: Deep well pumps can be used. According to your parameters. 0. 75 or 1. The 1KW deep well pump is in line with your requirements. Elephant 0. 75KW head can reach 70 meters. The water output in an hour is about 3 tons.. I wonder how much you get out of the water every hour. If the amount of water is small, you can buy a larger power point. General domestic deep well pump 0. 75 or 1. The price of 1KW is between 500-700. In the case of ordinary brands. The price of imported goods is between 600-900. The products at this price are generally of good quality.. Of course they don't sell your shoddy premise.

Q: We came home one day to find our bathroom floor soaked, and we had no water at all.we later found out that it was the washing machine hose leaking.Our friend primed the pump but isent an expert..we fixed that problem with a new hose.A few weeks after, we started to notice that when you are in the shower, the water would shut off for a minute and come back on for a minute, so on so on, perfectly timed., and this got worse and worse, yesterday it would be on for like 20 secconds and off for 3 minutes... last night the water was working good but today we woke up with no water.The water taps in the house hardly do it at all. I also noticed that when we are running water the water pump goes crazy fast, i can hear it because its a mobile home.: I'm guessing that you have a well. The others had some good points and I would just like to add that I had a similar problem with my pump. Turned out that the tank had to much air in it and was fooling the pressure switch.

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