SLOW two stage/multi-stage split casing doublt suction pump

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

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Production outline
SLOW two stage/multi-stage split casing double suction pump is specially designed and manufactured by our company for using in the occasions which require large flow and high lift, such as iron works, electric power plants and pump station, etc. In combination with advanced design experience of two stage and multi-stage split casing pump at home and aboard, the products are processed by using special machine tool. This product is applicable for feeding such media as water or liquid similar to water at the temperature from -10 to 80℃.
Production characteristic
1Water inlet and outlet are all installed in pump body. Just hoist the pump cover when overhaul, greatly facilitating maintenance.
2.Primary-stage double-suction and secondary-stage single suction of impeller adopted, greatly improving anti-cavitation performance of pump and decreasing axial dimension of pump.
3.Rotary speed 1480 rpm, avoid vibration caused by high rotary speed.
4,In comparison with single-stage pump, the products have same performance and smaller impeller diameter and stable operation.
5.The pumping chamber adopts double-volute design, reducing radial force.
6.Applying rolling bearing and lubrication with grease or thin oil and facilitating the maintenance of bearing.
7.Designing in virtue of international advanced hydromechanics software, modeling by using 3DM software, and checking the strength with finite element software, ensuring high efficient, stable and reliable operation of pump.
8.Fully mechanical seal ensures no leakage within 8000 h,and packing seal is customizable.
9.The pump turns clockwise, and anticlockwise turning is customizable.
10.This product has applied for national patent (patent number:ZL200520046059.0)

Q: Building installation problems, beginners, many problems need to be solved, thank you!: Because each manufacturer's label is different, the country although some specifications, but not enforced, so purely from the literal meaning is difficult to explainWe will try to solve the following problems:WQ-- sewage submersible pump80-- outlet diameter of water pump40 - M /h fand flow15 lift M1600 speed, r/min4Kw powerAs for J, Y is rated as sealed form and waterproof gradeI don't know whether it is correct or not

Q: What's the function of the engine pump?: Random occurrence of Internet cafes; on; come; time; two ah is a few karma; feeling ah; ah, just

Q: How large is the starting current for a 1.5 kW submersible pump?: The starting current is 2-7 times the power

Q: the impeller on my calpump pw1200 water pump will not turn. what is the problem? and how do you fix it: CLR soak. Remove the calcium and lime from the tap water use. I would use a 50/50 solution in the inlet and give it 30 min then plug it back in with the in and out in a bucket with the 50/50 mix until it runs like new.

Q: My friends car is a 1997 jeep wrangler. The belt broke and she took it in to get it replaced and they told her metal from the pully that broke got into the water pumpand they have to replace that to? WTF? it makes a squealing noise and they want to charge her another 300 for that! we just don't understand how that could be if the pump isn't even leaking?: Well like someone else has mentioned the squealing usually comes from the round pulley that the belt rides on maybe in your case some metal has damaged the idler puller on your water pump and that would definitely give you a consent squeal. the price to replace your water pump is very excessive the part at any over the counter parts store ranges from 30-45 dollars the labor too do this on a jeep is 2.2 hrs @ the shops hourly rate which also varies but 45-55 hour isn't unreasonable... so on the high side of these figures it should be about 120.00labor 45.00 parts so a bill of $165.00 would be more appropriate......but if you don't make the repairs knowing it still has a problem you might void any type of repair warranty on your current repairs already completed...hopefully this has helped you somewhat...jimboz

Q: Having a hard time taking out the water pump on my 2004 Grand Am. it's been leaking anti-freeze for some time and finally had the time to fix it. Didn't know it will be so difficult to take out. So hopefully it won't be so difficult to put back up.: You did not say if you have a 4 cylinder or a 6 cylinder. The 6 is really easy so I will assume you have a 4.If equipped with an automatic transmission, remove the exhaust manifold. Refer to Exhaust Manifold Removal in Engine Mechanical - 2.2L (L61). Drain the cooling system. Refer to Cooling System Draining and Filling . Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information. Remove the right front tire and wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels. Remove the front fender liner. Refer to Front Fender Liner Replacement in Body Front End. Remove the access plate on the water pump sprocket from the timing cover. Install J 43651 to the water pump sprocket. Use the access plate bolts to secure J 43651 to the engine front cover. Remove the bolts that secure the sprocket to the water pump. Remove the bolt (1) that secures the engine block to the water pump. Remove the bolt (2) that secures the engine front cover to the water pump. Remove the feed pipe that joins the thermostat housing to the water pump. Remove the 2 bolts that secure the water pump to the engine block. Remove the water pump.

Q: Two sewage pumps switch from each other, start with float switch control, the first sump, when the water is full, the first start, the second rotation to second units start, so the cycle of alternating: Do you mean that 2 pumps are used in a hole? With float switch control, plus time relay 24 hours, every 12 hours at will, you set time, seconds, minutes can be

Q: can you give me some information?: Water pumps come in all sizes from less than one gallon per hour to over 50,000 gallons per minute. They also produce pressures on the discharge from a few inches of water to thousands of pounds per square inch. They pump water with all kinds of contaminates and chemicals dissolved in the water. Finally they can have all kinds of service conditions from a few minutes at a time once a day to continuous operation. All of these factors enter into what you need to have a good quality pump.

Q: I've searched the net but cannot find exactly what I'm looking for and hoping someone out there can steer me in the right direction! Maybe I'm not looking in the right place....or do I have to fabricate my own? I'm up for the challenge!1) Trying to source a water pump that I'm going to power by HAND or a BICYCLE. 2) My choice of pump to give a continuous stream of water (very important) is a rotary (centrifugal) type or is there something else capable of a continuous output?3) This will NOT BE USED for potable water. SPECS:a) lightweight but durable, the smaller, the better. b) low RPM, high volume output and capable of producing/handling pressure. c) self-primingd) able to handle some small particulates in the water as I am using rain water. (from outside, NOT filtered, so the following may be present: bugs, dust, etc...) Thank you, in advance, for your help and would be nice to thank the individual(s) for a unique answer to my request at a later date so let me know you're preferred method of contact!: Those are widely used where hand or bicycle or animal power is common. It meets all your criteria except pressure. Depending on how much pressure you want/need a stand pipe or elevated tank might meet that requirement. If pressure is necessary, then go with a Double Acting Piston Pump and filter the suction. I recommend a Graded Sand Bed over the suction. I designed public water supply pumping stations drawing from rivers for years. Filtering the suction is no big deal.

Q: I'm using an old Mitsubishi Lancer. Recently I changed my water pump it was leaking.To me it looked like a piece of metal, with a small fan thing (not motorized) How can it fail? There is no mechanics to it, just like a pipe with a fan (or turbine)I also messed with my radiator, I unhooked the main hose to clean out the coolant, since the plug was jammed. Could this have contributed to the failing of my water pump?: if the plug was jammed then the most likely cause was some type of sealant someone put in the radiator to fix a leak......this is a prime example of why I say never to use the sealers in your engine....... what happened to your water pump is really rather simple......the waterpump (WP) is a simple device that spins and has bearings......the coolant you buy in the store has lubricants in it to keep the waterpump luricated.....the sealer that was put into the cooling system sealed of the passages the coolant uses to lubricate the WP bearings......this created too much friction and wore your bearing out causing the pump to fail!!!!!!......you need to flush the cooling system thoroughly several times to get all the sealer out......even then it will take a little luck and lots of praying for the sealer not to plug your engine water jacket and cause overheating!!! good luck!!!

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