SLOW series horizontal/vertical single stage split casing double suction pump

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

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Supply Capability:: 1000 unit/month

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Outline of production

Model SLO and SLOW pumps are single-stage double suction split volute casing centrifugal pumps and used or liquid transportation for water works, air-conditioning circulation,building, irrigation, drainage pump stagion, electric power station, industrial water supply system, fire-fighting system,shipbuilding and so on.

Running data

Outlet diameter of pump（DN）:80-1800mm
Capacity:Up to 36000m³/h
Head:Up to 200m
Working temperature:Less than 105℃
Solid grains:Less than 80mg/L

Characteristic of structure

1.Compact structure nice appearance,good stability and easy installation.
2.Stable running the optimally designed double-suction impeller makes the axial force reduced to the minimum and has a blade-style of very excellent hydraulic performance,both internal surface of the pump casing and the impeller s surace, being precisely cast, are extremely smooth and have a notable performance vapourcorrosion resisting and a high efficiency.
3. The pump case is double volute structured, which greatly reduces radial force, lightens bearing's load and prolongs bearing's service life.
4.Bearing use SKF and NSK bearings to guarantee a stable running, low noise ande long duration.
5.Shaft seal use BURGMANN mechanical or stuffing seal to ensure a 8000h non-leak running.

Q: I just opened up the water pump on my '86 cr250 and found it to be pretty dry. Found out why as soon as I threw some light on it. Yep, all but a TINY hole in both hose nipples (?) are completely gunked up in some nice light green/white crap.Does anybody know what this is? Okay obviously it's coolant, but why is it so dry? What causes it? My bike never quot;overheatedquot;, but there's very little travel room for the liquid. What should I do now? Clean it out and run new water through it?: Appears your cooling system has not been flushed for years thus the build-up of slime, (seems maybe even 'dry-slime'). The cooling system should be flushed clean, a new water pump and gaskets installed.

Q: coolant leaking from weep hole on water pump need to know what i need to remove to replace or should i call mechanic: disconnect battery, drain the radiator of coolant, move it out of the way, then remove the fan shroud that has a top section and a bottom section, once you have that out of the way, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, the heater hoses that connect to the water pump too, now remove the fan from the water pump you might have either ac, alternator or power steering in the way, and have other bolts. but basically after you have all the rest of the engine removed it is easy to get the water pump off. clean all new surface area's where gaskets touch , use indian head gasket sealer, its the best kind, when you put the new water pump on the engine make sure all the old gaskets are removed and wire brush the water pump housing, use gasket sealer, let it dry ,then put all the hoses back on, the power steering, alternator etc, all back in place, fill up the radiator, let it get to 190% temp, and make sure the thermostat opens, then you know everythings working,

Q: what makes pump come on every 10 seconds when water is on: Most likely the check-valve is failing to stop flow back to the well. Replace the check valve. It's the metal cylinder just between the pump and the water pipe coming to it from the well.

Q: Hello, i have a 1987 volkswagen cabriolet that i purchased earlier this year. So far its been a pain in the butt. Recently i noticed it overheats real quick, but it didnt use to. then i noticed the coolant/antifreeze was being used up like no other! I discovered, after being parked at work, that it was leaking.it leaks basically anything i put in there now!! it leaks from the water pump housing,.,.... at least thats what the internet said it was.. its leaking from the end of the hose that connects to the engine... (the hose that comes from the coolant reservoir.)What do i do? I dont feel any cracks? does this part crack? is it an o-ring or somehting? I am really absolutely NOTHING ABOUT CARS. Please help!!: You say it has been below freezing for a while. *IF* it has been very cold and *IF* your pipes are not below the frost lines in your area, then the pipe could be frozen. That would cause the pump to likely trip out as it would over-work while trying to push water through ice (not easily done!) The good news is if the pipe is frozen, it is most likely frozen near the point where the water goes into or out of the ground. If you have access to 110 power in both of those areas, (or can get it there by some safe means) try this. Take a heating pad (like you use for sore backs/ knees) and wrap it around the pipe right at the point where it transitions into the ground. Tie it in place with string or yarn and turn it on at it's highest setting. After about an hour try turning on the pump. Still trip? Give it another hour. Still trip? Do the other end. Believe me this works surprisingly well, and once you get the water flowing, even just a little bit, the rest will melt quickly. Good Luck. James

Q: I suddenly have this rattle noise whenever the engine is running but it diminishes with speed. It almost sounds like spark knock but spark knock would get worse at speed. It could be the water pump. Would a water pump get louder with speed, or go away as this does? I feel a tiny bit of in-out motion in the shaft but not side to side. Car is a Geo Metro and does have hydraulic lifters.: check your belt tentioner , ten-shun er. the computer keeps telling me i spelled it wrong

Q: we live in the country in the warm months and have a portable pump that takes water from a 15 foot deep well. It feeds water to a toilet and a hot water tank mostly and a sink and shower and washer. We put the pump outside the bathroom and need to know how to start it, thanks!: Make sure the foot valve is working. Fill the pump and the suction hose with water. Start the pump. It should pic-up and pump. Its very important that the foot valve holds when the pump shuts down. Good luck

Q: I'm only 18 and don't know much about cars, but my car was overheating so me and my boyfriend brought it to a mechanic.They told me it needs a new timing belt and water pump and that alone would be like 1450.. From my research that sounds like bullshit. By the way I drive a 2000 neon, is it THAT hard to work on, or am I being ripped off?: sounds like a lot of money also i am not sure that's the problem better get a second opinion

Q: and how do I get it to work 24 hours a day?and on the pump there is written: 2 A, and on another part: 220-240 Vdoes that mean its wattage is 440-480Watt?: Hey Don ..did you mean consecutive hours..if so. Here is how to do it..If there is fluid to be pumped there is sometimes a controller that will ask the pump to stop when it reaches low level . And again ON when it senses high level. Find this device, if one exists and either defeat it mechanically or wire around it electrically.Either is pretty simple. NOW that i have told you how to get it to run all the time. I though I might mention a timer..A timer, in series with your pump, will cut it off and give the liquid level a chance to rise as well. Timers can be defeated the same as all other protective devices,, My question is Are you sure this is what you want to do ? The plug on the end of the cord ,it must be a small pump if only 2 amps, should be your only control .If it has an auto off feature it's there to save your pump from burning the barn down ,so to speak, Why not take another look at your application. if you do have an endless fluid supply ,like a closed loop trickling fountain, remember those evaporate if make up water is not added. Sometimes though you need a pump to run 24-7 in which case just fool the controller..Of course the human is the true controller... :) Well I have armed you with enough info to get by on this please do so safely. From the E...

Q: Went to bring my car in to get all my belts replaced (minus the timing belt) My car was working fine, nothing was wrong with it. I pick up my car and get it home when I turn to get into the drive way there's this horrible squeal. I bring it back to Pep Boys and they tell me my water pump is broke. Now I don't know anything about cars, but is there a belt that they replaced that does something to the water pump? Please if you know about cars let me know. Thanks: not there fault . just bad timing

Q: I'm looking to buy a used 2001 Protege. The car is nearing 75000mi, but the owner has not changed the timing belt or the water pump. I found out that it is recommended to change the timing belt at 60000mi, but couldn't find anything on the water pump. Realistically, when would I need to replace these, and any idea how much it would cost?Thanks!: That could have either the 1.6 liter or 2.0 liter engine. My information shows that if you have the 1.6 liter, at least you don't have to worry about bending valves against pistons if the belt breaks -- you'll just be stuck out on the road until you can get it towed and fixed. Not so with the 2.0 which is an interference engine. So if you DO have the 2.0, pay attention -- you don't want an expensive breakdown! You're on borrowed time at 75K. For both engines, Mazda recommends that you replace the timing belt every 60K miles. Gates (a major replacement supplier) seems to think these belts will go 105K. Since it's a factory belt, stick with 60K. As for the water pump, it's often one of those while you're already in there sort of things when you're doing a timing belt. 60K makes it a tougher call, especially with the better quality of water pump bearings and seals. If your interval were 80K ~ 100K as is true on some cars, I'd say go for it without blinking. As cheap as it'll be (it's really just the price of the pump), and it was my set of wheels, I'd do it anyway, even at 60K, if it needed to be pulled to do the belt.

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