SJW series Three-phase High Accuracy Full-automatic AC Voltage Stabilizer

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Principle & Characteristics

This product is constructed by connecting the three pieces of high accuracy full-automaatic AC voltage stabilizers with Y connection method, has the advantage of: wide input voltage range、high efficiency、with over(under)voltage、over-current protection function、high regulation accuracy、short adjusting time、same input and output voltage waveform、small volume、less weight.

Scope of Application

It is available in the electric equipments and facilities in housing、factory、school、shop、office、precision instrument for scientific experiment, can long hours circulate.

Main Technical Parameter

Size & Weight(For reference only)

Note: Property of this product is similar with TNS type product.

Q:I am going to run one wire off my battery terminal to an auxillary fuse block under my dash. The fuse block has 8 places for 30amp max fuses and the block is rated for 120amp total. The wire I will be running is about 8'-10' long. What is the formula used to figure what gauge wire I need?: You need to size the wire for the maximum current it could carry. If it is directly off the battery and going to a block that is fused for a total of 120 Amps, then you have to assume that the wire could be asked to carry 120 amps before a fuse would blow. According to your chart, that would be a 8 AWG wire (150A for 10 feet). First problem is that 8 * 30A 240A. If you did 8 branch circuits all fused at 30 with no fuse between the block and the battery, you could exceed the rating of the block! The safe way to do this is to add up all the loads you plan to put on this wire, right size the fuses to those loads and then size the wire for that total plus about 10%. You could also put a single fuse right at the battery that would be sightly larger than the total max load current.

Q:I unplugged the clutch on the compressor itself and it doesnt do it. Do I need a new compressor?: Possibly. okorder

Q:Any help greatly appreciated. So I drive a 2005 Chrysler 300. 3.5l v6. I have strange headlight and tail light issues. Mind you there are what I believe aftermarket LED halo style headlights in the front. Tail lights are from 300c hemiFirst of all my #8 fuse [15 amp] is repeatedly blowing for no appearant reason. A Working fuse gives me the fancy blue halos, orange lamps, 3 small LED's and my normal beams. As well as proper running tail lights for the back and a responsive light switch to turn them off and on. . When the fuse blows I'm left with no lights other than my normal beams up front. No tail lights. Yet when the fuse IS blown I press the break and all my tail lights come on [all reds, and yellow blinker lights both constant. Yellow lights don't blink] and a glitchy light switch. NOW aside from all of that. My bottom left fog light does not work. The bulb looks un damaged. Any help greatly appreciated: The fuse protects an individual circuit. The lights which work when the fuse is blown is on another fuse circuit. They could not work if they were on the same circuit as the #8 fuse. It sounds like you may have too many lights on the #8 circuit. If the lighting load is greater than 15 amps it will blow the fuse when you turn on enough lights to exceed the 15 amps. Disconnect a few of the lights to bring the load below the 15 amp limit, and see if it resolves the fuse problem. You could increase the fuse size to 20 amps, but this is not usually advisable as the fuse is sized to protect the circuit components. If its not a result of having too much lighting on the circuit, then I would look for a bare wire which may be contacting the car chassis. The battery is grounded to the car frame, so any power source which touches the chassis will result in a dead ground, which will cause the fuse to blow. I would suggest getting a multimeter to check to see if you are getting power to the left fog light. If you are getting power, then the problem is with the bulb or light fixture. If you are not getting power, then I'd look for a blown fuse or faulty switch.

Q:I want to add a circuit to my car to hardwire my gps and radar, and to run my rally lights.I have 10 gauge leads with a 30a fuse. I have 3 spst switches to run each. I have the appropraite fuses for each component.so to get to the point, i need to know how, if possible, to wire them in series so the voltage going to each is the same. This is my first time messing wiith electronics, and do i need to add any relays or capacitors?Thanks,Ben: A series circuit is one draw after another. If one doesn#x27;t work none work. Like Xmas tree lights if one goes out the whole string is out. I think you want parallel circuit. One hot lead and separate switches controlling each draw. It would be better to have individual fuses for each accessory. Do have 30 amp fuse on the main hot lead.

Q:I have a toyota corolla 2000. Fuse of my car blown up immediately within five minutes after replacing it with a new one. The fuse is of 15 ampere and its related to EFI or F-HTR. Please help me to troubleshoot the problem to the component level.Thanks,: TRY A 20 AMP FUSE IF IT BLOW YOU HAVE A DEAD SHORT

Q:Honda accord LX 2003 ac and wiper refuse to work.: Check the fuse relay that's related to those circuits.If they are not blown,its either a problem in the wiring harness going to the wiper switch or ac clutch switch ac compressor switch,the switch itself like the multifunction switch that controls the wiper,,or its something wrong with the actual components that the fuse and relay powers such as the wiper motor or ac compressor.If the ac wiper button are on the same control panel,the panel itself is probably faulty if fuses are ok

Q:car radio: Protection

Q:i recently got my battery replaced because it wasnt holding charge. when it came out of the shop, the clock, power mirrors, and floodlights arent running. everything else seems fine, and i checked the fuses, all are intact. There were no problems with those 3 components before the battery was replaced. Any Ideas to fix this? thanks: Did you check the fuse block in the engine compartment. There may be a fuse or relay there that is bad. There may be a spare relay in the box. If this fails, I would go back to the shop and explain it to them. They may have disconnected something and didn't get it hooked back up. Hope this helps and good luck

Q:explain: there is a thin piece of metal inside, too much current makes the metal get hot and breaksaving the system

Q:I have a 1998 Honda civic stock altenator I want do a 1200 watt amp it says 120 amps fuses and I want do 2 highs amp 1 300 watt and 1 400 watt will I be ok to hook this up: In the short term, probably. Long term - I'd be surprised if that alt lasts 6 mo. At anything over 1/2 volume that alt will basically be maxed out. Under that much stress the amount of heat produced will be extreme. Heat in alternators causes both the electrical components and the mechanical components to wear out quickly.

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