JSS96 Digital-display Timing Relay

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Q: Any help greatly appreciated. So I drive a 2005 Chrysler 300. 3.5l v6. I have strange headlight and tail light issues. Mind you there are what I believe aftermarket LED halo style headlights in the front. Tail lights are from 300c hemiFirst of all my #8 fuse [15 amp] is repeatedly blowing for no appearant reason. A Working fuse gives me the fancy blue halos, orange lamps, 3 small LED's and my normal beams. As well as proper running tail lights for the back and a responsive light switch to turn them off and on. . When the fuse blows I'm left with no lights other than my normal beams up front. No tail lights. Yet when the fuse IS blown I press the break and all my tail lights come on [all reds, and yellow blinker lights both constant. Yellow lights don't blink] and a glitchy light switch. NOW aside from all of that. My bottom left fog light does not work. The bulb looks un damaged. Any help greatly appreciated: The fuse protects an individual circuit. The lights which work when the fuse is blown is on another fuse circuit. They could not work if they were on the same circuit as the #8 fuse. It sounds like you may have too many lights on the #8 circuit. If the lighting load is greater than 15 amps it will blow the fuse when you turn on enough lights to exceed the 15 amps. Disconnect a few of the lights to bring the load below the 15 amp limit, and see if it resolves the fuse problem. You could increase the fuse size to 20 amps, but this is not usually advisable as the fuse is sized to protect the circuit components. If its not a result of having too much lighting on the circuit, then I would look for a bare wire which may be contacting the car chassis. The battery is grounded to the car frame, so any power source which touches the chassis will result in a dead ground, which will cause the fuse to blow. I would suggest getting a multimeter to check to see if you are getting power to the left fog light. If you are getting power, then the problem is with the bulb or light fixture. If you are not getting power, then I'd look for a blown fuse or faulty switch.

Q: i recently opend up my ps2 and took the power board off of the console and wired in an led light through the 4 prongs that go to the power board, i was super carefull with everything and i put it together, it worked and the led light was too weak for i and i took it off, put it back together and it worked fine again, so i left it sitting for all night and i noticed i kept hearing a loud ringing noise like an old tv noise, so i went over to my ps2 because i noticed the red standby light was off and i thought i left the switch off in the back, so i switched it back and fourth and nothing happend, so i was like aww crap so now im in this situation to where when i turn the back switch on it just rings loud and nothing happens, what could be the problem?: You'd need to look at a schematic and say exactly where these prongs were, where they are on the power board. It could be a lot of different things. Adding that LED light to those prongs may have cause a power spike or fluctuation on part of the board and blown a fuse or damaged a component. It may have connected circuits that were never meant to be connected, delivering too much power to something. Sure the light worked, but electricity will flow through any closed circuit, that doesn't mean it's meant to be closed. Those power boards are designed to take 120V and chop it up into different-sized tiny little bits to be passed of to the primary board and its sensitive circuits. They are complicated, and you shouldn't mess with them unless you have a schematic and know what you're doing. Even dropping a paper clip or screw on it can accidentally cause an overflow and destroy some circuits. It's why solder is made with lead, it prevents flakes of tin from shedding off and ruining the circuits. Since it is ringing, it sounds like you have mostly wiped out your power board's relays. Not much you can do about that except replace them. And I wouldn't do that for a good long while if I were you, until the capacitor cools back down again. A TV technician would be able to open it up, find the high-voltage circuits and discharge them. I'm guessing you're not a TV technician.

Q: I live in Klang Valley, Malaysia: service station, car accessory place, electrical component store

Q: A friend of mine has left town for a week, so another friend and I decided to install air horns in his car as a Christmas present/practical joke. We wired the horns to his existing horn button and it seemed to have worked for a short time. Then it stopped. We assume the problem is a blown fuse and we're going back in to check/work on it more soon. My question is what should be done after replacing the fuse to assure no further failure? Obviously the horns are drawing too much power, but will any electrical components solve the issue? Possibly a higher gauge wire?: If there is an amperage rating on the horn or whatever runs the horn, Times that amperage by 125% OR (1.25) and that is the size of fuse to use. Hope this helps you some.

Q: Causes 3 amps of current to flow to your stereo? Why is this a good thing?: If there is a 3 amp surge the fuse would melt, instantly stopping the current before your stereo is damaged.

Q: I have the right fuse the cord is ok the capacitors appear to be ok I don't see anything that stands out to let me know where the problem is. I change the fuse and as soon as I plug it in it blows.: This answer isn't going to be very helpful, but it is the best one I can give without being there in person to snoop, meter and prod things a bit. You likely have some component in the power supply section that has gone out of tolerance by shorting quietly. This occurs when a resistance drops enough to blow fuses rapidly, but the very fact that it blows fuses rapidly keeps it from ever damaging anything to the point of finding the problem with a visual inspection. My best guess from here is that this model VCR / DVD has quiescent state power so that it can be used with a remote control at all times. That leads me to believe that the problem itself would be in either the particular section of the power supply that provides this power or in the sections dealing with the remote sensor and any micro controller that interprets and activates those commands. There is one fairly simple possibility you might have overlooked. Make sure that no connectors or bare wires are against the case that you can see. Also check for minor discolorations of the boards due to heating. If you aren't a qualified tech or a talented hobbyist with tools available such as a multimeter, this will be very difficult for you to track and repair yourself I'm afraid. And, as always, it isn't safe to work around equipment you're not thoroughly familiar with, even disconnected. Best advice is take it in for repairs or replace it. Sorry I can't be of more help.

Q: I have a 2000 Ranger I turned it off and it would not start again I have power to head and dome lights, replaced the 50 blade fuse position number 5 in the power management box and it worked for 1 to 2 sec then burnt out again. is it the starter relay, the ignition switch, the starter or something else. anyone have this problem? how did you fix it? any help would be greatly appreciated: a three or a 5 amp fuse would be positive, as long as your heater works once you slot the plug there is not any would desire to purchase a clean one. If the heater is going defective it particularly is going to easily blow the fuse, yet there is not any reason it is going to.

Q: Convergence is at its proper crossed white lines.Convergence resistors and pico fuses maybe?Any help would be appreciated.Thanks: If it had bad fuses the cross would be misaligned. If you move the red and blue up and down and the whole picture moves (the red and blue part) then I suspect a vertical deflection problem. This could be the output ic, the jungle ic, or associated component and connections. The only way to find out is with an 0-scope in a shop.

Q: I have a bad battery in my Tercel 99, so I jumped the battery with another car. But I did a mistake by letting the positive negative of the jumping cable touch each others. So I guess that my fuses are dead, the car won't start again, even with the jumped battery (I get no power at all).Which fuses should I check to replace them?: I assume u are saying they touched after connecting them to the Toy before connecting to other vehicle. Just for tomorrow - clip the loose - free clip which will go to the starting vehicle around the wires. Then after u have connected to the dead battery and after u connect the + clip to the starting battery, remove the - clip and attach that. when jumping batteries, one places the cables on the battery terminals. The only way to get a fuse to blow is to place the cable someplace else so the current will flow thru the fuse. If u did that, then I would start with the fusable link usually the first thing u come to off the + terminal of the battery going to the other fuses. It is possibly integrated into the + terminal. The starter cable does not have a fuse on it. It goes directly from the battery + to the starter. Now, is it possible to damage other components like a PCM. Not hardly. Since there is now way to draw current thru it by shorting leads out. Is it possible to damage an alternator? Maybe depending on where u clipped the cable. If u connected to the alternator, u may have a problem here. Lesson, NEVER connect + lead to anything but the battery terminal. NOW, when u try 2 jump it do u get any spark when attaching the - lead (after the + always). If not, maybe the cables are open. I assume the other vehicle still works.

Q: I have a Honda cbr600 2009. The battery was running low so I went to recharge it but accidentally switched the poles. There was some smoke and a few sparks from the battery after about a minute. Once I realized what happened I took them off everything was hot. I let it cool off for a few hours then corrected the charge. surprisingly now its fully charged and I haven't noticed any fuses blown and under glow lights connected directly to the battery are working. Except nothing happens when I turn the key.: If the key was on during shorted time you may have fried the ignition system.

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