• DBW/SBW series High Power Compensation Single Three Phase Voltage Stabilizer System 1
DBW/SBW series High Power Compensation Single Three Phase Voltage Stabilizer

DBW/SBW series High Power Compensation Single Three Phase Voltage Stabilizer

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Principle & Characteristics

This product is designed and developed with the international advanced compensation technology.It can keep the output voltage in steady state automatically when the network voltage fluctuated or the load current varied, which can ensure the consumer run smoothly. It has the advantage of large capacity、high efficiency、no waveform distortion、simple operation and maintenance、reliable running、full- capacity output under tower input voltage if compared with other voltage stabilizer. It is provided with over-voltage、over-current、phase sequence and so on protection function.


Scope of Application

It is suitable for electric supply in small-sized plant、workshop and department in middle、large-sized mining enterprise, it can be widely used in the precision machine tool、precision instrument,test device、elevator、imported electromechanical device、production flow-line in the mining enterprise、oil field、railway、building site、school、hospital、hotel、scientific research department and so on, it is also suitable for the user in the LV electric network end with low power voltage and big wave range


Main Technical Parameter
Size & Weight(For reference only)


Q: I have built a custom car and want to reuse the original fuse box under the dash. All I am running that require power is all my exterior lights, gauge lights, dome light, power windows, ignition switch, push start button, alternator, and distributor. I want my lights to have constant power to a switch just like factory but i want everything else to get power once the ignition is turned on, once again like a factory car. Any help is appreciated.
it fairly is a risk that some thing is incorrect with the the remainder of the wiring on your place. although, the electrician became not required to do something approximately any of your wiring aside from the couple of ft going into the breaker field if that cord regarded ok then he does not have any reason to alter it. truthfully rewiring the whole abode could fee way greater beneficial than $one thousand or $1200, an entire rewire ought to fee 5 or ten circumstances that lots. So the fee distinction probably has greater to do with him not having coverage, not having a employer truck to maintain, and/or only being greater desperate for some earnings. i could fee $600-800 for a job like that reckoning on what proportion circuits have been in contact and how lots difficulty it became going to be to instruct the potential off and reconnect it. once you're worried that rewiring does might desire to be achieved, take a glance on the insulation of the present wires and notice if curiously broken, or the right age to be brittle. If not, there is not any reason to think of it fairly is failing
Q: I check the fuses and they are good.
Geez this seems to be occurring to an excellent sort of persons i understand - we could continuously all go decrease back to roll up domicile windows. My Taurus had that issue and that i took it in 4 diverse situations earlier it ultimately worked perfect!!! I have not have been given any thought what they ultimately did to it, i understand I asked that they replace the completed door.
Q: I know you can clean a car engine by hosing it down, but I've heard you can't drive your car for a while after? Maybe because if the water evaporates too fast it will cause complications? I don't know. Also, if you can hose the engine down, what parts of the engine must stay dry. I know the intake has to, and the battery.
oven purifier will east up the coating of the wires. thats effective stuff, itll decrease via to oil on the wires and shop going! your engine became no longer made to shield concentrated corrosion like that. next time basically purchase the gunk engine purifier its like 4 dollars for quite an excellent can of the stuff!
Q: Hi, I have a 1996 Cadillac Eldorado ETC with 180K miles. It has been running fine except for starting, it used to take a few cranks at times but other than that it was fine. My fuel pump seemed to have had failed and I replaced it with another but I still don't get any fuel pressure to the fuel rail. I have replaced the fuel filter, and a fuel pump relay located in the engine bay driver side fuse box. I have also installed an inline fuel pump and that get gas to the rails but it lack the high pressure required for EFI. My original fuel pump works now that I have tested it, so that was not the problem, it seems it might be an electrical issue since there seems to be no power getting to the in-tank fuel pump. My question.- Is there any other electrical components I need to look for and replace that control the power sent to the fuel pump? I cant afford to take it to any shop, or put it on a diagnostics system, I have to be able to bypass or rigg or fix myselfwhat do you think?
run a jumper wire to ur relay from a remote hot wire in ur fuse panel, but first check ur crank or cam sensor. that can cause the starting issue
Q: I need help figuring out why my off road lights are not working. They were working about a week ago and now they don't work. I have the power wire connected to the battery to a toggle switch. The power wire has a fuse on it but if the fuse was blown the light wouldn't go on on the toggle switch right? Then I have the toggle switch grounded. Then I have the white wire going to the off road lights which are LED and have all of the lights grounded and have regrounded them twice since the first time they were not working that was the problem. I even tried a different toggle switch but that didn't fix the problem. The only thing I can think of is the fuse is blown on the power wire but like I said the light on the toggle switch wouldn't light up right? Please help me figure this out!!!
No actually, the toggle switch may illuminate. Try checking the fuse.
Q: I turned on my car to go to work and I noticed my windshield wiper fluid kept spraying. I got to a stop sign and turned off my car for a few seconds and when I started it up again the problem continued. I got to work and thought I would try it again, same result. Same happened after work and this morning. I see how to fix the problem, hopefully, but how do I fix it? I thought I got the fuse, I think it's called (not really a car person), and I tried getting it off but only a plastic part did. Any help?
I think you have a fault at wiper fluid pump or a short-circuit. The fuse is for all components( Wipers + pump +)
Q: any little help would be great!A beam of light with red and blue components of wavelengths 670nm, respectively, strikes a slab fused quartz at an incident angle of 30 degree. On refraction, the different components are separated by an angle of 0.001 31 rad. If the index of refraction of the blue light?
OK, this question doesn't make sense, for two reasons: 1.) Colors, by definition, are at different wavelengths. If the beam has 2 color components, each component would have it's own wavelength. 2.) Your question at the end isn't a proper sentence, and is leaving a necessary part out.
Q: I changed all the bad fuses, then I changed the switch, then I tested the motor by hooking up a 12V battery pack, and it worked just fine up and down. What else could be the problem and how do I test it?Also, the window and the door lock mechanisms don't work on the passenger front door, even from the master control on the drivers side door.
Not exactly my area of expertise, BUT I do know that Chevy and GM vehicles in general have a history of failing electrical systems. I have heard endless stories of it and have seen hundreds of Brand new GM vehicles with burnt out head lights. I recommend just taking it to the autoshop if you've tried everything. Hope this makes you feel less alone in the issue. Best of luck.
Q: E.C.M. stands for electronic control modal
Don't stick wires
Q: I have a 2002 Honda Civic that has a 12-Volt power outlet to plug in things such as my radar detector. I've used the same radar detector in my Civic for years without any problems. Recently, after using my radar detector, my fuse would burn out after using the outlet with the detector plugged in. It happens every time. I've already changed the fuse three times! And it's the correct amps too! Does anyone have any idea what's going on? Does my car have a more serious electrical problem I should know about? Any suggestions would be great.
Could be the power outlet itself. Try plugging it in and leaving it in. Unplugging and plugging it in can loosen/damage the outlet. I tell my customers to plug in accessory and leave it alone. You could try an adapter 2-1 or 3-1 and leave it alone.

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