RN1 Indoor high-voltage current limit fuse
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
You Might Also Like
| Scope of application |
This product can be used in indoor system of AC 50Hz and rated voltage of 3~35kV to protect electric facilities and electric transformer from overlood or short circuit. |
| Type and meaning |
| Main technical parameter |
| Outline and installation size |
- Q: I also checked the fuses but still no power to the fuel pump and ideas what it might be?
- did you check the pump before fitting it, if not get some cable and go from battery to relay and see if the pump runs,if not check by placing temporary wires from pump relay to the pump and trying Again,if still not working temp cable from battery to pump relay then from pump relay to the pump if it works its a short circuit in the cars wiring loom,if it doesn't work then its the relay or pump, if you checked the pump earlier then its the relay at fault,also check the earths (grounding cables) if these are loose of broken then no return means no power,,just to be sure try a fuse that's working another component,of the same rating,in other words just swop the fuses over if they are same rating, and try again,hope this helps and be careful fuel pumps and fuel and sparks can cause fires
- Q: I posted yesterday about my TV. Now mind you I'm not an educated electrician but I'm no amatuer either. I have repaired our microwave, dryer, dishwasher to name a few. So I took our not working TV apart yesterday and found a blown fuse. Is there only one fuse to replace by the way? We live in a small town with no stores, so I decided to take a fuse out of one of our other TV's. It said it was a 125/ 4A just like the other one. I got it put in, put the TV back together, plugged it in and POP. There was a big pop, small spark at outlet. What did I do wrong? Shouldn't the fuse have been the same? Any suggestions or idea's. My friend is taking the old fuse to the store to get a new one, should I try this again or will it make more problems? Thanks Everyone for reading.
- The other posts so far are all essentially correct but if you want a little more detail as to what might be wrong ! First you need to be able to use a multi meter ! if you can well then with The meter set to measure ohms on say 20k range place meter prods across the main filter electro , looks like large can situated not far from mains input and on/off etc it will be labelled maybe 200mfd 400 vdc !! If you get a resistance reading of just a few ohms regardless which way you connect the meter leads then you can be fairly certain that the trouble lies with the bridge rectifier block with an open ballast resister as well ! prob 4.7 ohm 5watt !. Also the fault could also be the power regulator IC or transistor which ever the set uses ! The idea is to test those basic components first then if you find the faulty part then you can replace the fuse again . Do not bother replacing the fuse without testing the other parts . Oh one more thing ! the fuse should be a delay fuse !Well that covers the basics , there are still plenty of other possibilities But digest these first and do an Edit if you have further comments ! Cheers Pete EDIT. The tests that I have outlined are very basic and usually do not require a schematic to find the parts, it's like a motor mechanic does not need a workshop manual to indentify things like a carburetter or the spark plugs or the coil in any car he sees even in a make he has never seen before . Also it requires knowledge to understand a TV schematic or diagram . The solder needed is resin multi core solder and can be bought at any electronic store ! You will also need a de-soldering method , you buy solder wick which soaks up the molten solder or a desolder pump. If you still have missgivings then I think you would be better off to find someone who is more knowledgeable to do the job for you thus saving you time and money in the end ! Cheers Pete
- Q: I turned the key once for the electrical components and it worked for a split second then it went dead. Then I tried to jump start it and nothing happened, no clicking or anything. just dead. Then, when I unhooked the jumper cables, there were sparks from the jumper cables which would indicate that the battery isn't dead.
- Actually the sparks may indicate that the battery is dead. I think your best bet is to remove the battery (or have someone do it for you) and have it checked at an auto parts store. Batteries are one of the least expensive and the most troublesome parts of your electrical system. There are other things, like a fusible link, that could cause everything to go dead, but it usually is the battery.
- Q: I had the fuse break on a Joker 200 light, but I don't know what could cause a surge of electricity (no lightning storm at the time). If it matters, it could have been on the same line as a coffee maker/toaster/microwave. Please help me out. Thanks!
- A surge is not going to blow a fuse IN a ballast. A fuse will blow when there is too much current flowing - which might be a loose wire touching ground or two wires shorting. If the fuse is in the fuse box then something else being on the circuit might blow the fuse.
- Q: I have a 1989 5.0 l camaro that wont start. Ive replaced the starter battery and nothing. Ive also tried jumpstarting the car and still nothing. When i turn ob the ignition switch nothing happens. no sound or click. When i turn the switch on all other components start but the car just wont turn over. Its missing the crank fuse might it have to do something with it? Really need some help pls.
- check the fuseable link for the starter. it could be burnt.
- Q: I had my brother wash my car and he put a hose to the engine compartment and by the time i saw him he had wet everything under the hood. I turned the car on and it started/ran just fine, the display was on but all went dark after about 30 seconds or so. Its been 3 days and still dark. What do i do? It has a 5.7 liter 350 V8, TBI.
- Replace fuses When water comes in contact with a electrical component bad things can happen.
- Q: I have a 2000 Ranger I turned it off and it would not start again I have power to head and dome lights, replaced the 50 blade fuse position number 5 in the power management box and it worked for 1 to 2 sec then burnt out again. is it the starter relay, the ignition switch, the starter or something else. anyone have this problem? how did you fix it? any help would be greatly appreciated
- a three or a 5 amp fuse would be positive, as long as your heater works once you slot the plug there is not any would desire to purchase a clean one. If the heater is going defective it particularly is going to easily blow the fuse, yet there is not any reason it is going to.
- Q: I have a 240 watt car amp and every time i put my ground wire in the fuse blows and the only other thing i have hooked up is my power no speakers or remote just the ground and power can someone please help me?
- For the best answers, search on this site
- Q: I tried to add a new radio to it. The wires touched each other, a spark. I tried to fix the fuses. I take one out while the car is on. And I try to start the car without the fuse. I did replace the fuse. The Turn signals still dont work, and neither does the dashboard light up. Why is that?
- you blew a fuse. anytime you work with electronics on the car disconnect the negative on your battery. first rule or else you end up in your situation.
- Q: I have already checked the fuse and it is fine. If I bought some freon would that maybe get my air back on? If not, any ideas on what else could be be the problem?
- I would start with electrical components, beginning with fuses and relays (remove and inspect). I would then look at the low pressure switch tied into the A/C line (jump terminals in cable harness plug while A/C is on to see if compressor kicks in). If you know lots of refrigerant is present and jumping that plug makes the compressor turn, get a new switch. If the coolant has leaked out, don't let the compressor run on empty for more than a few seconds. If the compressor never comes on after all this, try jumping 12V to it directly to see it a bad clutch coil (still won't come on) or bad wiring or control circuit. The next step is to pull a hard vacuum on the system: -29.5 Hg is what you want, and see if the vacuum is stable with the pump off and valve shut. If the vacuum leaks out find out why and get it fixed before buying R134a. If you think it might be a very slow leak you could now take a gamble and get it charged and add leak dye. This can tell you how slow the leak is and where, in the meantime you might have some A/C for a little while. EDIT: The blower motor in the dash might just be broken, which isn't affected by the level of freon in the sealed system. Have this blower problem resolved before digging into the A/C system itself, because it might be just fine.
Send your message to us
RN1 Indoor high-voltage current limit fuse
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
Similar products
Hot products
Hot Searches
Related keywords
