• RN1 Indoor high-voltage current limit fuse System 1
RN1 Indoor high-voltage current limit fuse

RN1 Indoor high-voltage current limit fuse

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Scope of application

This product can be used in indoor system of AC 50Hz and rated voltage of 3~35kV to protect electric facilities and electric transformer from overlood or short circuit.


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Q: i just don't know where to find this information!! I can't find it in my notes or in my teachers notes!!!
Components required: Polymerase Enzyme - This is the actual molecule that forms a secondary DNA strand by fusing complimentary nucleotides to a phosphate backbone Polymerase Enzyme Buffer - Keeps the mix stable Magnesium: Improves replication efficiencies dNTPs: The nucleotides A,T,C G - molecules required to form the secondary strand Primers - one complimentary to the upper DNA strand and another to the lower strand - these are short oligonucleotide molecules complimentary to the start end of the sequence you wish to replicate. It acts as an anchor from which replication starts. Water - to bulk up the reaction to the required volume.
Q: I asked how to fix it, but was just told the same thing everyone else said, go to a mechanic and let them do it. I would like everyone to know write now that is my car, and I intend on learning everything I can about it, secondly I'm broke, and thirdly, i am a very poor grammarist.lol but seriously I would really like to know what this is.
they are a section of thinner wire(usually encased in a glass or plastic case) that fails to protect the whole circuit or component when the temperature, voltage or current drawn rises too high, hence the name thermal. fixing it is easier said than done. do you know where it is? do you know how to safely remove and replace it? can it be removed/replaced? best bet is to get (buy, beg/borrow/ steal) the service manual for your car and read that first. if you get one, it becomes a handy resource for when you need to know stuff about the car. these manuals are made either b the manufacturers or other people who atually pull a car apart and put it back together, noting instructions and taking photos, so they are relatively easy to follow.
Q: I turned on my truck the other day and suddenly my radio, dome light and power locks did not work. I wouldn't think all of these would be on the same fuse, but I don't know much about that stuff. Could it be a bad ground wire?
Believe it or not they are on the same fuse. Often what happens is the door jam switch corrodes, and shorts out, or the wires get salted, or corroded and ground out. That's worst case scenario. Check your owners manual, and it will have a fuse diagram. Both Chilton, and Haynes have repair manuals, and are readily available.
Q: Hello. I have a Peugeot 306 1.4i (2000). My battery wasn't holding charge and having tested it it became apparent one of the cells was damaged. Having replaced the battery the car still won't start. Prior to replacement of the battery the car had needed jump starting a few times.So when I turn the key to on position the lights on my dash light up. If I try to actually start car power dies. If I try and turn main lights on from this position - power dies. Once the power has died I can turn the key and no lights will come on dash. To get juice round the car again I can wobble the battery and power seems to flow back through car. Possibly there is an issue with battery connectors?I ran a multimeter over the main fuses with the key in on position and all the main fuses in the front have 12v running across them - so fuses good I'd think. This means the starter motor could be gone and draining all power? Maybe?Any ideas / suggestions would be spot on! Cheers.
get new terminals fitted .and as suggested charge battery ,car will start ok with that done .rem to tighten battery terminals well .you said you wiggle them and lights come on . that suggests not tight enough ok .all the best .
Q: I accidentally left my husbands ps3 in the tv stand drawer with the door closed and running a movie. By the time i got a chance to realize i left the door shut about 3 to 5 minutes passed and the ps3 sounded like a blow dryer and a gust of heat came out. I immediately shut off the ps3. About 8 hours later my husband turned it on and put his game in, within 5 minutes the game froze shut off and the yellow light appeared than shut off.So we waited and kept trying a few hours later and i did the fan test once and the fans did not work at all and immediately shut off. Fast foward to 5 hours the ps3 now turns on but it's glitched out and is freezing so we shut it off so it doesn't over heat and damage the motherboard. What can we do to repair it? We know the fan is broken so we'll repair that but how do we know the connector for the fan to the motherboard isn't shot?
i think it has yellow ring of death, contact sony if you still have the warranty.
Q: All other components of the car, lights, ac, signals, all work. It is just the fuse that keeps blowing. I replace it, and when I try to start the car, it blows.
you have a short to ground.
Q: i already had a 600w rms mono amp for my bass and a 1.0 Farad Digital Car Audio Capacitor, and it was fine for a year , a few week ago i install a 200w rms American pro amp to run my door speaker and it happen every morning i had to jump my truck, i unplug that new amp for a week and everything went back to normal during that week i took truck to dealer for a 250 point inspection everything was fine ,i saw that my battery was a cheap factory battery so i got a optima battery i rewire everything 0 gauge front to back and 4 gauge on back to wire both amp and cap.after all my truck die agan , had to jump this morning
It may seem obvious to you already, but there's an issue with your American pro amp. It sounds like the amp is staying on all the time. Make sure the REM input only has +12volt power when the key is turned. The remote lead from the HU is supposed to switch the amplifier on, but if you've got a stock radio you might want to tap a fuse in your fuse box to get switched power. If it's turning off like it's supposed to, it has an internal fault making it a constant drain on your battery.
Q: I have a Rover 420 GSI with an electrical problem. Battery drains over about 40 hours. Replaced it with a new battery. The alternator has also been tested. There is a 4A current being drawn all the time from the battery, when the car is turned off (overnight). I have tried removing all the fueses I can find but nothing makes it drop. I am no great electrical expert. owever, Ive tried removing the Alternator and fan out of line. As it wears down the battery the battery light starts indicating on the dashboard. I am guessing there is a relay or something held open. Is there some easy way of testing them? Thanks.
the surge whilst shifting into rigidity sounds like a very self sufficient difficulty. many times it incredibly is led to by capacity of low computerized Transmission Fluid. If it hasn't been run in a collectively as, it takes a 2d for it to warmth up so it fills the torque converter thoroughly. before it lurches, it probably sounds like it incredibly is desiring to have extreme RPMs to flow a low velocity. If it makes an extremely loud slamming noise, it incredibly is possible some thing interior the transmission itself is a difficulty, yet in many circumstances it sounds extra like grinding, as though the gears did not somewhat catch. If the motor vehicle starts off, runs and has 14.x volts on the battery, then your floor isn't a difficulty. make helpful in spite of the incontrovertible fact which you have the extremely floor strap grounded to the motor vehicle. at times the helpful cable to the starter is wrapped in black that may bring about issues and a presently lifeless battery in case you floor it to the chassis. yet it incredibly is probably not the difficulty for you. Like different persons have stated, short circuits would reason a speedy battery drain. while you're leaving it for a week and the battery is dying, i does not hassle too lots. the motor vehicle i'm engaged on perfect now, (1986 BMW 325e with 1991 525i engine) loses adequate power over the process a week if it incredibly is not run so as that even the electrical powered locks do not paintings, much less initiate. My chum's 1989 325is seems to run dry quickly too. element is, some automobiles in simple terms are enormous battery wasters and in case you do not rigidity it many times, it's going to lose its charge notably without postpone. wish i've got been effectual, and strong luck fixing your difficulty!
Q: I unplugged the clutch on the compressor itself and it doesnt do it. Do I need a new compressor?
Possibly. okorder
Q: I have already checked the fuse and it is fine. If I bought some freon would that maybe get my air back on? If not, any ideas on what else could be be the problem?
Fan motor could be effected by a fruse/relay. If you have this working but still no cold air then you need to recharge your system.

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