QXB Submersible Centrifugal Aerator

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT or LC

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Supply Capability:: 99 units unit/month

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Description

Submersible aerators are used in aeration tanks and aeration depositing tanks of waste water treatment plants. They oxygenate the mixture of waste water and sludge and treat the water by biochemistry or oxygenate the breeding pools. Air input: 10-100m3/h, oxygenation capacity:0.35-8.20kgO2/h, motor power: 0,75-7.5kW.

IDENTIFICATION CODES

QXB－ QXB- Centrifuge submersible aerator - Motor power (kW) QSB－ QSB- Jet submersible aerator - Motor power (kW)

CHARACTERISTIC

1.Compact structure, small area occupied, easy to install;

2.Except for the air inlet, all the parts are in water and noise level is very low;

3.More air intake, more and small bubble produced and high oxygen dissolution;

4.Not necessary to provide air source, no air blower and engineering cost is fairly low;

5.ABS submersible technology imported from Germany is adopted. The flow channel of the impeller is adopted of blockless and the operation is safer and more reliable.

STRUCTURE AND OPERATION PRINCIPLE

The submersible aerator is composed of submersible pump, mixing compartment, pedestal, air inlet tube, muffler, etc. For the air inlet tube, the upper side is the air inlet above the water surface and the lower side is connected to the mixing compartment. When the electric power is switched on, the impeller shall rotate and the water shall flow out of the impeller outlet. It shall result in minus pressure in the mixing compartment and air shall enter to mix the liquid. The mixture shall flow out from periphery to fulfill the process to oxygenate the liquid

Q: Water pump part is stainless steel, which part is it?: An overcurrent unit is a part of a liquid that passes through a pump when it is in contact with the liquid. Such as pump body, pump cover, impeller, shaft, shaft sleeve, impeller mother, key and expansion tube, etc..

Q: Ok, if my intake manifold wasnt mess up and it could be my water pump would I still smell a syrup odor and WHY would it be leaking green antifreeze? especially when the antifreeze I use is orange?: You could have a leak in your heater Hose or Bad Water Pump, Small hole in rad. Do you notice as increase in Temp? Need more info i.e. How old is the car, How hot is it getting etc.

Q: I have a pontiac grand am 1996 v6 with a 3.1L 3100 SFI engine. I have a coolant leak and I think it's coming from the water pump. When the car is cool and then turned on, about 4 to 9 minutes into warming up, coolant is hitting a belt and spraying out of the car's front end. When this is happening I see that there is coolant dripping off of the waterpump housing. The coolant started to spray everywhere about 15 seconds before the radiator fan kicked in. Why would this happen when first warming up only? Can a defective thermostat cause this to happen?: Stop guessing and have the cooling system pressure tested.

Q: I know that the water pump is belt driven, so it would be easy to connect it to my bicycle. What I am wondering is if I can pedal fast enough to make it work. Does anyone know how fast I would need to pedal to operate the pump?: Mechanical water pumps will move water with any rotation, provided it's a sealed system and there are no obstructions. The flow rate will be determined by the RPM of the water pump. This is proportional to the pulley sizes of the drive pulley to the water pump pulley. 600 RPM for a water pump at idle is sufficient for the cooling system design and the engine heat load at idle. Without knowing the specifics of your application, it would be hard to tell how fast you would need to pedal.

Q: here is the problem with my water pump control switch settings. the water is being used, runs dry and stays off for sometimes 3 minutes or so.i realize the springs control the cut in and cut out. do i need to make the spring more compressed to make the pump come on sooner? or do i need to make the spring looser to make the switch come on sooner?when i read/hear about adjusting the cut in. the answers seem vague because i do not know the perspecitve of the spring.does compressing the spring make the swith flip easier? or does compressing the spring make the switch harder to flip on?i installed a new 30/50 switch today. My air tank was at 50 or so PSI. but i dropped it to about 30. is the goeal to make the entire full system 50 pounds? because after my pump cycles i get about 70 psi!!!: with the switch set to operate at 30/50 the tank should have 27 or 28 pounds of air with no water in tank and a faucet open with pump turned off...once this is set the pump will come on at 30 and off at 50 if it goes higher than this the switch is bad or the adjustments have been changed....tightening the tall spring turns both cut in and cut off pressure higher...loosening the tall spring turns both cut in and cut off lower....the short spring sets the difference between the two...tightening the shorth spring raises cut off pressure only...loosening the short spring lowers cut off pressure only....

Q: I want to run 1 HP, 220 v, single phase water pump on solar panels without using any batteries. what do I need to do so amp; how do I wire it?: Hey R, if you have an existing pump you are trying to run that is designed for 220 AC, I would suggest going with the battery and inverter, but either way it will take about 1200 watts of solar. With no battery, the panels need to provide for the surge power to start up the pump, so now you're looking at at least 2000 watts of panel. Then as Caoedhen pointed out, one cloud goes by, it shuts down then starts again, this is not good for pump longevity, so you'll be spending more on replacement parts too. If you don't have the pump yet, and you want to go solar, I would use a slow DC pump, they make them strictly for solar panel operation, no batteries or special controllers. Windy Dankoff probably is the expert, do a google search for DC slow pumps, or look for Windy's website. Then you can get by with a lot less panel, and a better pump for them, plus no batteries. Take care, Rudydoo

Q: I have a 1995 Honda Civic LX 1.5L that needs the water pump and timing belt replaced. What all part do I need to order to replace all of that?: You should be able to buy a timing belt kit. The kit usually includes a timing belt, tensioner, idler, balancer shaft belt(if applicable). Some even include the cam and crank seals. Water pump is usually sold separate. You should also get a head cover gasket and the spark plug tube seals since you have to pull the valve cover. Last thing would be drive belts since they come off as well to do the job depending on their condition. 1 gallon of coolant. As far as tools you'll need a 10mm,12mm,14mm,17mm and a 19mm wrench and sockets, wratchet, extensions, screw drivers etc... If your doing the job yourself the hardest part will be removing the crank bolt. A powerfull impact gun is needed or a special crank bolt removal tool used for Honda's. A manual to line up the belt and a floor jack and jack stand.One last thing if you do the job yourself, Be sure the marks are aligned properly because if not BAD THINGS will happen$$$$ Good luck and hope this helps.

Q: I have coolant leaking out and i'm pretty sure now that it is the water pump. Question can water pumps leak even if the cars not running?Like a steady drip every two seconds? Forming a decent puddle after awhile, but when running the pump is'nt making any abnormal noises is that normal? Is there other clues to positively know the pump is bad? I cant believe how hard a job it looks like it would be to replace it there is no room! Anybody with some helpful how to's? how about an estimate on how much a shop would charge to do it?: Put a jack under the oil pan with a 2x4 between the pan and the jack face. You will have to take the serpentine belt loose, the idler is below the power steering pump, and then support the engine on the jack and remove the passenger side motor mount. There is an aluminium L-shaped bracket to remove and then a cast iron piece with 4 bolts holding it to the engine. Remove also the alternator, as it will get in the way. Once the motor mount is out you can remove the serpentine belt. Now you will need to remove the bolts holding the stamped serpentine pulley to the water pump, I believe there are 4 of them and I think they are 8 mm. You cannot, however, take the pulley out until the water pump is off. So now you have to take the bolts out of the water pump and pull it out, clean the mating surface for the new pump, and reinstall, just make sure to put the serpentine pulley over the water pump before you try to put the pump back in. On a side note, before you go apeshit with all of this, pull the iginition module and coil pack mounting bracket off the front of the engine and check the bypass hose to see if it has a hole in it before you go right to the water pump. I had this go on the wife's car, and overzealous idiot that I am, I just assumed it was a water pump. Several hours, busted knuckles, and beers later, I discovered that it was a bad hose that cost me 6 bucks and took 15 minutes to install, not the 40 dollar water pump.

Q: I have a '97 Grand Prix with a 3800 V-6. There is a single bolt on the left side of the water pump that is directly behind the power steering pump pulley. How do you get the PS pump pulley off? I pulled a tricep trying to get this thing loose, and I'm no further now than when I started on it. Can anybody give me a tip on removing the pulley or the whole PS pump? I have a brand new water pump that I can't get on because of this fine piece of design by the brilliant engineers at GM!: here is a step by step on how to re move the pump is a lot easier than tring to pull off the pulley plus it will not come off when it on the engine there is no room for thr puller.

Q: As a fact; I must remove the timing belt in order to remove both camshaft sprockets,then the metal timing belt cover which cover partially the water pump.My main question: Do I have to lift the engine and remove the two water pump studs- Which normally holding the right engine mounting.And where I can rent ,or buy a camshaft locking tool with low price: Yes, I have done at least 100 of these water pumps. You are correct, remove the timing belt, cam gears and rear cover is the easiest route. I have done them without removing the rear metal shield all the way, and only removing the front cam gear as well. You can remove the front cam gear, and all 6 bolts to the rear shield and shift the cover enough to get the pump out from behind the cover. You shouldn't need to remove the water pump studs, but if you do get a set of stud removers. I bought a set from snap on for around $50 or so years ago. Sears also sells a set. You don't need a cam locking tool. You can make one out of a bar with two bolts through it to stop cam from rotating while you loosen the 17mm nut on the cam gear. I usually just use an impact gun on the bolt, and no tool is needed to hold it. Remember, the 1MZ-FE engine is an interference engine, and the timing belt must be aligned perfectly or the pistons WILL hit valves and engine will self destruct. If you are near ILlinois I can help with repairs if needed.

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