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FAQ
- I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.
- Good question and I do not know the answers. For the fire issue, call your local fire department and chat them up. Then call your building inspector and talk with him. If he's been around awhile he may have seen it done before and have some information on how it has worked out or what are must do's.
- What's better- to lay out roof insulation in an old house or to get it blown in?
- Blown in. It's better and also cheaper to have the insulation blown in. It's better because the insulation will go around wires, ductwork, and pipes much easier. It can get into nooks and crannys easier. It's much quicker also.
- 1) What thickness of rigid insulation is used on flat roofs?
- 2" is what I always use.
- roof was replaced eight years ago soon after there were leaks in the roof caused insulation toget wet then dry now the insulation is packed hard and has started to turn into power who would be responsible to replace the insulation.
- House Owner, Land Lord. If you are the house owner, contact the people who did the work on your roof, find out what your warranty is.
- I have read in some articles about roofing that it is recommended to use attic roof insulation in ones roofing. Is this true?
- here in the uk not only is it necessary ..its the law ..under building control up to 250mm 10" of fibreglass is needed ...it keeps house warm in winter and cool in summer
- im thinking of putting rolled felt paper under my metal roofing would that work instead of the reflective insulation instead?
- rolled felt is not going to be as good as proper reflective insulation i dont think it would work
- So I'm renovating an old farmhouse with a metal roof and there is no insulation in the attic. I was up in the attic checking for leaks since we just got some freezing rain and it is currently melting I thought now was the perfect time to check. I found no leaks but I did notice the roof was sweating with noticeable beads of water in many places and many of the 2x4's that act as the frame were damp, although none were rotted (I found that odd as the house is approx. 140 years old and those are the original 2x4's. I could tell that the attic does have vents so I guess it dries out before rotting or mold occurs.. but makes me wonder if I put down some roll-in faced R-30 Owens Corning Insulation and then add a plywood floor over top if everything will be fine.. or not so fine..
- Is the attic floor completely uninsulated now? You need a single layer of vapor barrier between the living space and the attic space. This is often done with faced insulation rolls. A vapor barrier between the living space ceiling and your new insulation may be enough all by itself to prevent the condensation from forming. If there's existing insulation, you'll have to pull some up to check for a vapor barrier. If there's already a vapor barrier, you can add unfaced insulation. Never put in two vapor barriers with insulation between them.
- i have roof insulation but if i add more to the required depth the bottom layer will get compressed. Will it still insulate?
- Simple - make your bottom layer 1" styrofoam sheets- it has a higher R value per depth (1 inch of styrofoam is equal to 4 inches of fiberglass ) and it will not take-up much space and it will serve as a vapor barrier - and it will not compress when covered by fiberglass insulation. (So you can add as much R value as you want - as much as you can afford - with styrofoam sheets because they take-up such small depths in your rafters --- Also, humidity, as on rainy days or sunless winter days, decreases the R value of fiberglass -- weather conditions do not affect the R value of styrofoam sheets.