Polyester enamelled Copper wire

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Loading Port:: China Main Port

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Quick Details

Place of Origin: China (Mainland)
Application: transformer, motorType: Insulated
Conductor Material: Copper
Insulation Material: Enameled

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:	standard exported cartons with pallets or wooden case or as per clients's request
Delivery Detail:	2-3 weeks

Specifications

enamelled copper wire, winding wire, magnet wire with various kinds,like: PEW/130, PEW/155, UEW/130/155/180, EIW/180, EI/AIW/200

Enamelled Copper Wire, Winding Wire, Magnet wire with various kinds, like: PEW/130, PEW/155, UEW/130/155/180, EIW/180, EI/AIW/200.

Annual output: 100,000 metric tons

Production Size Range: 0.05mm-3.50mm (AWG7-AWG38)

production type: Class 130'C to Class 200'C

Certificates: ISO 9001-2000, ISO TS 16949, ISO 14001-2004, UL Approved, RoHS Directive Met

Executive standards: IEC, JIS and NAME

Product Description

Capable of working under extreme situations where strong resistibility against very high and low temperature, powerful cryogn,hard radiation and forceful heat shock are needed.

The wires have got RoHS,REACH and UL approval (File No.E227047). Gets the ISO TS 16949 certification.

Be suitable for refrigerator compressor and aire condition compressor, microwave oven electric instrument and other pressuring motor.

Packaging & Shipping

Standard exported cartons with pallets or wooden case or as per clients's request

Our Services

Best sales department teamers to do best serve for the customers

With advanced testing equipments and professional test teamers to do all necessary

tests before every shipment to ensure the all technical parameters of our wires meet

customers' requirement.

Professional packing teamers to keep goods fastness during shipment

Q: Current wiring harness has a two wire plug for a sensing circuit but the new alternator does not have a provision for connecting the plug. One of the wires goes to the ignition switch and the other to the alternator lamp on the dash.: Check voltage between both wires with the original alternator and the engine running as well as stopped (but key on). my guess is the original alternator closes the circuit between the positive (coming from ignition key) and lamp. As for the replacement alternator my guess is it supplies ground from its only connector when the lamp should be lit (please measure it with voltmeter!). If my theory is correct you should wire a relay in the middle to allow the lamp to be lit, since you need a positive for the lamp.

Q: I have a U.S.-based company and we are putting together a new electronics assembly which requires a wire harness. What are the advantages of approaching sub-contractor for the development of a wire harness assembly in the U.S. versus in China or Mexico?: Where you have them built is less important than the quality of the harness and whether they build it to spec. You will likely save money if you have it built outside the U.S. but, you also may face communication/cultural issues. One idea is to contract with a firm that has U.S. offices where the design and contracts are handled, but that also oversees manufacturing capability to keep costs down.

Q: I have a 2001 ford focus zts. My cousin bought me some projector headlights for my birthday, but the problem is that the wiring harnesss for the projector headlights does not match the wiring harness for my car. Are there adapters or do I have to return these headlights and get some that come with a factory style wiring harness?: toss the harness, just use factory wiring, and install your bulbs into the new housings

Q: How to effectively reduce the cost of car wiring harness?: I do not understand: why do you want to do so to detect the beam machine, so complicated, not to detect a short circuit, open circuit, line order? A simple 8-bit microcontroller with interface expansion IC on the line Well, too simple. I do to do a simple multi-beam detector, even the microcontroller is useless, only two LED, one indicates the open circuit, one indicates short circuit, line order error also indicates the circuit can also be used.

Q: i am installing an aftermarket stereo in my truck i have a 2006 chevrolet silverado wuth the bose sytem so i have to install the gmos01 harness and i need to know if i need another to install to the back of the stereoany links to a diagram or step by step instructions would be nice: they're what they are asserting. Blue(potential antenna) is for automobiles with powered up and down radio antennas( in general outdated automobiles). if your automobile has a table sure antenna that's no longer powered/retractable tape this cord. Blue and white is distant activate for amps. Amps require this in any different case they drain your battery via consistently being on. while you're actually not working aftermarket amps, tape this up. As pronounced from all human beings, the stereo shouldn't activate with out the pink cord, it rather is designed to potential the radio in basic terms while the motor vehicle is working( and your alternator is charging the battery)

Q: I am installing a trailer hitch on my van. Is the plug for the trailer lights already under the van or do i need to wire it? If not, do i just have to go to the dealer and get a plug for the wiring harness or do I have to go from scratch and hardwire it? Thanks: There is a connector for the harness just behind the engine. You can buy the harness at the dealer and then its just a matter of connecting and routing.

Q: I just bought a pioneer wiring harness and there is a blue cable and a blue cable with a white stripe. the color code says that the blue wire goes to the power antenna and that the blue/white wire goes to the amp turn on. the thing is that the blue wire hooks in at the same side twice and the blue/white goes from the one plug to the other plug. If I could email you for more questions that would be nice thanks: Is this a harness that has a plug at each end, one to the radio and one to your car? If so it may be that your car does not have an option for a power antenna and therefore the blue wire is not needed or may be looped back to the blue/white wire at the plug. Your car may also be one that has a factory amplifier and therefore the blue/white wire is going to the car side of the plug to turn on the factory amp. If you need to power an aftermarket amp as well you can simply tap into the blu/white wire with the aftermarket amps remote turn on wire. The way they work is thisThe blue wire sends out 12 volts only when the tuner is selected on the radio and does not send out 12 volts while listening to CD. This is to raise a power antenna for the tuner.(since this wire is looped back to itself it may because your model of car didnt have an option to come with a power antenna from the factory and is not needed) The blue/white wire sends out 12 volts during both tuner and CD listening modes. This is to turn on any amplifiers being used on the system.

Q: I have the alternator completely removed, with the exception of the wiring harness. The obvious way to remove it would be by pulling it out. The problem is that the wiring harness has no push in piece to release it from the alternator itself: look for some tabs coming of the connector itself one on each side use small pick to pry on tabs while slightly pulling on pigtail connector,some auto parts sell this harness change it if you notice any signs of overheating.

Q: I AM WORKING ON A 93 CAPRICE WITH THE 9004 HEADLIGHT BULB,I WOULD LIKE TO HAVE IT SO I CAN USE EITHER BULB,CAN I SPLICE INTO THE CAPRICE HARNESS OR WHAT CAN I WIRE UP A SEPARATE HARNESS PLEASE HELP ME WITH THIS: If you want to use both at the same time I would just splice it into the existing wire. If you are trying to make them interchangeable put in some wire connectors on either bulb.

Q: I have been given a pyle stereo from a friend and for the life of me cannot find the wiring harness for it online. Any tips?: Pyle Wiring Harness

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