Non-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valve DIN3202 F4
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Type: | Non-Rising Stem |
Material: | Body: Cast Iron / Ductile Iron Wedge: Cast Iron / Ductile Iron Encapsulated with EPDM Seat: EPDM / NBR Shaft: SS410 Stem Nut: Brass O-ring: EPDM, NBR Wedge Nut: Brass / Bronze Hand Wheel: Ductile Iron
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Operator: | Hand Wheel / Bevel Gearing / Square head / Electric actuator |
Face to Face: |
BS5163: 1986, DIN 3202 F4-F5, JIS B2002, ANSI B16.10
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Flange: | BS4504, DIN 2532, JIS B2212, ANSI B16.10/ANSI B16.50
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Working Pressure: | 16 Bar(200 PSI) |
Design and Manufacturer Standard : | BS5163, DIN 3352, JIS B2043 |
Test Standard: | API 598 BS6755 DIN 3230 JIS B2003 |
Application: | Water works, Sewage, Public facilties, Building industry, Petroleum, Chemical, Steel, Metallurgy, Paper Making Industry, Foods, Beverage, HVAC |
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- Q: In aircraft reciprocating engine, if valve spring surge happen?1. Why happen?2. Affect to engine?3. Result?4. Feeling?
- Its in a car engine but the fault is near the same. The good news is that in aircraft there are mostly multi-spring valve springs to help prevent the resonance problem that can happen with a single spring. (If one goes resonant, the other one doesn't.) I think what that means is that if you have valve spring surges in an aircraft engine, you probably have a broken spring or weak on the assembly. (just a guess but if they don't go resonant at the same time then how would you get the surge?) The affect, not good. Result - rough at a certain RPM or range of RPM even temp. related Feeling - rough
- Q: After shutting off the hot and cold water lines to my washer to remove the unit from my laundry room i noticed a small leak coming from the hot water valve as if the valve is not completely closing. The valves themselves should be roughly 10 years old and were extremely tight when attempting to close them, my question is how big of a job is this to replace the water valve? Is it as simple as turning off the main water to the house and replacing the valve or are these typically soldered on? Currently i just ran the hose for the hot water to the drain line to prevent water from leaking onto the floor so is this something that is a fairly non issue once i hook the lines back up to the washer and turn them back on? Or is this something i should get addressed asap?
- Laundry Water Valve
- Q: This happens when the sprinklers are ON and goes on for a minute after the sprinklers go off. Should I replace the whole valve or do I need to check the diaphram or solenoid head? In addition to leaking, I have noticed a more potential problem - water hammer. As soon as the sprinkler goes off, I hear this loud banging noise from the pipes underground. Water pressure is fine ~ 50. My guess is air inside the pipes is causing this. Is this because of faulty valve which is leaking?Also, any difference between the valves that are sold in Lowe's and Home Depot to that of commercial valve? My lawn guy says commercial valves last a long time.
- The water hammer is due to the sudden closure of the control valve. They don't turn off slowly. The sudden shutoff of the valve causes the inertia of the water to slam against the end of the sprinkler pipe. You can device from a well stocked hardware store to place in you water line to reduce or eliminate the hammer. As for the leaking problem, I disassembled the control valve and found the diaphragm out of position. On mine, there is a very, very small key on the diaphragm that aligns it with the case. Also check for debris in the solenoid valve seat and anywhere else in the valve. I can't address commercial vs residential valves other than if the valves are brass, they are more durable.
- Q: what are the factors should be know to select a control valve for specified application
- There are numerous articles online that address this question from choosing the correct size to the correct actuator. Here are just a few:
- Q: So i finaly got my check valve and my airstone. The airstone is actually a flat round airstone and is 5 inches in diameter to be in my 10gallon. Is it to big? though i have a tetra whisper air pump for 10-30g.And how do i place the check valve? Do i put it closer to the tank or closer to the pump? (just to make sure since i heard so many different ways people put it). Or does it even matter?And lastly, do i put the OUT side of the check valve facing towards the tank or the pump?Thanks! after this im ready to install it!
- Adequate the purpose you let a tank cycle in the first place is due to the fact of Bactria needs to grow that will maintain your water clear. As for overstocked. I consider your proper on the threshold of being over stocked. Just preserve the tank walking a lil longer and spot if it clears up. But when your 15 gallon tank has the filter from the ten gallon tank that could be why to you dont have sufficient water moving around to scrub it
- Q: I've never replaced a shut off valve before but am wondering if there are any tricks in freeing up a stuck valve that wont close. Can this be done so I don't have to call anybody?
- When valves are turned all the way in an open position they tend to get stuck. Try a heat gun but make sure you have a copper line feeding into the toilet tank, not a plastic one because it can melt. Just heat the valve for a few minutes at a time, because over heating it can damage the rubber washer inside the valve. If all fails then it has to be replaced by someone who is knowledgeable.
- Q: I have a 4 diameter column of water 10' tall (filled with water). I need to find a flush valve unit to fit into the bottom of it so that it will flush all of the water out of the column in 1 flush. Essentially this will act as a large toilet but it is for a design project at school. My concerns are that the flapper will close before the water is completely flushed out of the column. Is there any way I can make the flapper stay open thus flushing all the water in column out without holding the chain connecting the float to the flapper valve?
- Flapper valves are all about weight and pivot points and center of gravity. The air bubble inside the plug acts like a ping pong ball initially, holding the flapper open. When the water gets down to the level of the flapper, it tends to close too soon as you point out. But you can attach a smal plastic cup to the back of the flapper that fills with water and holds the flapper open when the water level is very low. You put a small hole in the bottom of the cup so that the water in the cup slowly drains out and finally the cg shifts and the flapper closes.
- Q: I have a trumpet, but unintentionally dropped it. When I started playing, I noticed that the first valve was very sticky. Therefore, I decided to put some oil on it. Despite the oil helping a lot, the valves are still sticking a bit when I push them down, as the key still stays in the valve for a few second before coming up again. It could possibly have a slight dent, but when I opened the valve, I did not see any damage at all. Are there any suggestions? And if it is dented how much would it cost to repair it?
- My valves have had many issues over the past few years. Your problem is either 1. horn is dirty 2. there is a tiny dent (even 1/2mm is enough to stop the valve, happened to me last month). If your horn is dirty, there are plenty of youtube videos on how; it generally involves using water and rising all the gunk out. You could also have too much oil buildup. If there is a dent, don't even try to repair it yourself--it is waaaaay to hard, and you'll ruin the instrument even more. Take it to the store; it should only cost $20-30. I suggest you clean the trumpet first and then try to get it fixed if it is not good.
- Q: My third valve won't move at all. I haven't played my trumpet in a while and I tried to oil it to get it to unstick but it still won't move at all. People say to screw it off but I can only unscrew the little cap at the bottom of the valve where you push in, not the white button at the top. Help please! Thank you so much! =]
- on the top of the valve there is the screw that you turn to open the valve to oil it. if this screw wont turn gently tap the edges of it with the rim of your mouthpiece, and make sure that you get the entire screw cap. if this doesn't loosen it enough to remove the cap, then repeat while hitting it at an angle in the direction that it needs to turn. if this doesn't work take off the bottom cap and drip valve oil up though the bottom to drip up to the top cap and continue with the tapping process. if it still wont move, you need to take it to a shop. once the upper cap is loose, the valve still wont move, this is when you take off the bottom valve cap (if you haven't already) and fully remove a different valve that has already been oiled and push it up through the bottom of the stuck valve, this might be hard to do, and you might need to put in a lot of valve oil into the bottom to get it to move. once this valve is removed, thoroughly clean the valve casing and the valve itself, and oil both before replacing the valve. Hope this helps.
- Q: i have a 1996 doge grand caravan,do i need to lower gas tank to remove rear proportioning valve for my brakes, it leaks fluid and is in a bad spot to get too ?
- i got a 97 model van setting out side the shop and i went and looked at it and it doesn't have one on it,what are you calling the rear proportioning valve,it has a block that the lines split off of but not a proportioning valve,let me know if you got some kind of special edition or something,good luck.
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Non-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valve DIN3202 F4
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
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