Non-rising Stem Resilient Seated Gate Valve F4

Non-rising Stem Resilient Seated Gate Valve F4

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Type:	Non-Rising Stem
Material:	Body: Cast Iron / Ductile Iron Wedge: Cast Iron / Ductile Iron Encapsulated with EPDM Seat: EPDM / NBR Shaft: SS410 Stem Nut: Brass O-ring: EPDM, NBR Wedge Nut: Brass / Bronze Hand Wheel: Ductile Iron
Operator:	Hand Wheel / Bevel Gearing / Square head / Electric actuator
Face to Face:	BS5163: 1986, DIN 3202 F4-F5, JIS B2002, ANSI B16.10
Flange:	BS4504, DIN 2532, JIS B2212, ANSI B16.10/ANSI B16.50
Working Pressure:	16 Bar(200 PSI)
Design and Manufacturer Standard :	BS5163, DIN 3352, JIS B2043
Test Standard:	API 598 BS6755 DIN 3230 JIS B2003
Application:	Water works, Sewage, Public facilties, Building industry, Petroleum, Chemical, Steel, Metallurgy, Paper Making Industry, Foods, Beverage, HVAC

Q: I have a 1997 Toyota Corolla. My check engine light has been on. I tried to get my car smogged and it failed. I then got an oil/air filter change and just yesterday I replaced the EGR valve which was the result given after 2 diagnostic tests. The mechanic gave me my car and the check engine light was off, I've only driven about 5miles and the light is back on. I have to pass smog asap to register my vehicle. I plan on calling the mechanic back and telling him the light is on, but could it just be a sensor?: Let's start from the top. Your check engine light has been on and you took it to be smogged and you probably didn't know that the check engine light on is an automatic fail. So you get the oil/air filter changed without a reason, just because. Next, the diagnostic tests point to the EGR valve so you have a mechanic replace it, that is instead of having the mechanic figure out the real problem The mechanic could have replaced the valve or not, but you didn't get the old one from him, so you don't know if it's been replaced. He disconnected the battery so the light went out. Now it's back on so the problem isn't fixed. Could it be a sensor. Well, sure, but proper testing would tell you if it was. My GUESS is the EGR valve and ports where the EGR attaches just need to be cleaned out but without proper testing, that is just a guess. My suggestion is find a different mechanic, one who doesn't just disconnect the battery to turn the check engine light off, and don't go in telling this new mechanic what you think the problem is because you don't know.

Q: Serious answers only please. I have a 1995 Ford F-250 XL 5.8L 351 c.i. engine. My check engine light comes on periodically when I drive. When I bought the truck a year ago the gas mileage wasn't too bad, about 9-10 mpg. I've only put about 3,000 miles on it this past year, and now the needle drops just driving it across town. I work at a Chevy dealership, and I've worked at another Chevy dealer as well as a Ford. I've always done my own work on my cars and am currently restoring a 1967 Mustang, so I have decent knowledge under the hood. I scanned the truck and it has a stored code for EGR valve voltage too high (stuck open). How bad could this be hurting my gas mileage? It's $160 for the valve and sensor even after my discount, and being a college student that's a lotta $ to pay. I'm selling the truck and need it running perfect when I do. Please, serious answers only, and help is greatly appreciated!: EGR valve should be opening at higher RPM's and closing at lower ones. Check the shaft positioin on the EGR valve with the engine idling (you might need a flashlight and mirror on an extension rod to see it on your vehicle). When the engine is revved up, the shaft should move away from the engine. If its not moving or it moves open but doesn't close all the way, it could be that the valve seat of the valve is broken and holding the valve open. If you do end up replacing it, clean out the carbon if there is any in the opening of the engine that leads to the EGR valve.

Q: Hi....my boyfriend is currently waiting to have heart valve replacement surgery and im a little worried about the whole thing...he doesnt like talking about it but if someone knows the answer to my questions I'd be so greatful!!First of all a little detail....he is 19, as far as i know he was born with this problem with his valve but it has got worse over time. he was also born with a hole in his heart but had an operation as a baby to fix this. he gets short of breath and often has pains in his chest. he says hes going to have a pigs heart valve to replace his, by open heart surgery (in a few months time). my main worry is whether the operations are always successful? and will this condition/operation affect his life expectancy??please if there are any experts in the field help put my mind to rest....!thanksshelly x: Open heart surgery is always a risk, as is any major surgery. The main risks are from infection and blood clots. The risks taper off very quickly within a few days after the surgery. Heart valve replacements are a common operation, with a high success rate. Life expectancy is generally better with a valve replacement; but not all valve problems reduce life expectancy to begin with. Sometimes the trade-offs are more of an issue with quality of life, with higher quality achieved with a functioning heart valve, so some people may be taking a medical risk to obtain higher quality of life. No one can tell you for certain what the outcome of this operation will be. The odds are very high that everything will go perfectly and he will fell better than ever before. There is a very small chance that he will end up worse To put the risks in perspective, a person i know had minor surgery to her knee - a simple 1 hour operation done at an outpatient clinic. Ten days later, a clot broke loose and she died in her sleep. I have had the same operation twice and didn't even miss more than a few hours of work. Another person i know had severe heart problems and docs said it was terminal, but an operation could prolong his life maybe 5-7 years. He had the operation and its now been almost 20 years and his cardiologist says his heart is healthy and there's no reason why he might not live another 20 years or more.

Q: HowdyWas taking apart a screw down NR valve and screw lift valve and noticed the spindles were made out of different materials. Brass and Steel.I am aware that brass is non corrosive but why use steel in the other valve? Is it due to their operation, do they come or not come in contact with fluids? Is one cheaper than the other?The screw lift globe valve had a steel spindle and the screw down nr glove valve had a brass spindle.Also, if anyone knows what materials are used in the valve lid and seat are made of.Any ideas?Cheers: Brass is used in some cases because it it less likely to corrode. It is used in other cases because it is softer than steel and can act as a bearing surface. Steel is usually used because of its strength relative to brass. In some cases they are used in combination so the steel surface and the brass surfaces compliment each other to provide a smooth sliding surface. Bronze is also a popular material for some valves and parts of other valves. Usually in water or steam service. Many times the valve seats are made from a harder material such as stellite. See site below for more info on stellite.

Q: My question mainly pertains to Electric Motor-driven Motor Operated Valve Actuators.: It's been a few years, and I think it depends on the size of the valve, but: I think there is usually an electric motor, maybe 1HP or less, connected to gears and a valve actuator which might actually move a valve stem. Limit Switches (LS) usually stop the motor at the ends of travel, and provide signals to outside control systems. So maybe somebody somewhere pushes a button to start the motor, and it runs until the limit switch opens the circuit and stops the motor. To move the valve the other way, they reverse the motor.

Q: Hey there in new england wth a blizzard on the way :(. I noticed a few weeks ago that my radiator in my bedroom was always cold. I have lived in this house for 11 years don't know why I am just noticing now. Anyway I discovered that the radiator valve in my room was closed. I shoudl have know it was closed for a reason. I turned it on Wednesday night. everything was fine until this morning. It started leaking thru the celing. my husband tightened it turned it back off and it was fine for a while until it started leaking again! I have since turned the heat off. What can I do now? Did I mention we are bunkered down for a blizzard here? I won't get a plumber out here for days and I fear with the blizzard winds if I keep the heat off the pipes will freeze! Help any suggestions? why didn't it stop leaking after we turned the valve off again??? I am so freaking out right now!: look to see if there is a packing nut on the valve, if that is where it is leaking tighten it . when you opened the valve you filled the radiator , it may just be draining back out.i would turn the heat back on for a coming blizzard . good luck

Q: What is the primary function of valve seals?: Valve seals are placed over the intake valve guides so oil will not be drawn into the combustion chamber on intake stroke.

Q: Would a 96 saturn egr valve work on a 96 camaro: Why would it. They are from different cars, with different engines.

Q: Hi, this is a part 2 question to the one I posted last night. After turning the water shut off valve on my toilet back on, it didnt start to hammer till about 1 min pasted. When the hammering is happening I look in the toilet tank and see air bubbles coming out of the base of the fill valve and the water coming out of the fill tube isn't smooth and flowing its kinda step wise/ in intervals. I forgot to mention that I live in an apartment, does this affect anything?My official question is, is this an air bubble problem or is it a rubber gasket/ rubber seat problem?This is a new building only about 2 yrs old, so parts can't be that bad right?: Air in lines. Leave valve on and push float down manually til it runs smooth.

Q: i have an 87' monte carlo ss, 64K on 305 w/ cam, headers, roller rockers and springs. ive been seeing blue smoke out of my exhaust ALOT during start up, but it also continues to smoke at idle, i've been told it's a good chance i need my valve seals replaced and was wondering what the general ballpark was assuming there was no other complications in the process of replacing these?: budget $300-400 probably to fix the stem seals. if you have ANY thoughts of replacing the heads with a performance set now is the time...

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