Non-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valve

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Type:	Non-Rising Stem
Material:	Body: Cast Iron / Ductile Iron Wedge: Cast Iron / Ductile Iron Encapsulated with EPDM Seat: EPDM / NBR Shaft: SS410 Stem Nut: Brass O-ring: EPDM, NBR Wedge Nut: Brass / Bronze Hand Wheel: Ductile Iron
Operator:	Hand Wheel / Bevel Gearing / Square head / Electric actuator
Face to Face:	BS5163: 1986, DIN 3202 F4-F5, JIS B2002, ANSI B16.10
Flange:	BS4504, DIN 2532, JIS B2212, ANSI B16.10/ANSI B16.50
Working Pressure:	16 Bar(200 PSI)
Design and Manufacturer Standard :	BS5163, DIN 3352, JIS B2043
Test Standard:	API 598 BS6755 DIN 3230 JIS B2003
Application:	Water works, Sewage, Public facilties, Building industry, Petroleum, Chemical, Steel, Metallurgy, Paper Making Industry, Foods, Beverage, HVAC

Q: Among butterfly,ball,needle and gate valves which is used mostly in pneumatic system?: It depends on what sort of system you are operating. Most butterfly valves leak, a few don't. Ball valves are instant operation, and don't normally leak. Needle valves are used for fine control of the flow rate. Gate valves are quick to operate, and don't normally leak. On aircraft pneumatic systems, butterfly valves are common, where a leak is permissable. Where no leak is permissable, slide valves are used, which have rubber seals.

Q: In the very near future I'm having valve replacement surgery. I haven't yet been told the risks or the recovery period, does anyone know the risks or the recovery stages and how long recovery takes?: Valve replacements actually have very low morality rates like 1-2%. There are always risk's with surgery though, such as blood clots or irregular heart rate. The recovery in the hospital is generally 5-7 days, and then it can take anywhere from 8 weeks to a year to feel recovered.

Q: I just installed a iac valve on my 2001 blazer but didnt go through the reset steps. Do i have to unistall and do the steps or go from here with the reset. Truck stalls out now and surges... Or could i just hava a defective part.: The okorder /

Q: I have a 3-circuit sprinkler system in my yard (built by me, last year). I discovered this week that I overtightened the connection between the valves and the downstream pipes, and 2 of the three valves are cracked, and leaking, at the connection. I replaced all 3 valves, and now I need to reconnect them to the supply. But this means I'm working backward - when I bult the system last year, I worked downstream - I built the manifold first, connected the valves, then the remainder of each branch. Now, I have to make the new manifold fit the valves, and naturally, they don't line up perfectly. Any tips/tricks on connecting valves in this situation? Is there such a thing as flexible pipe that can withstand continuous pressure? I'm using unions at both ends of each valve to help things go together/come apart more easily.: valve manifolds are something that requires practice and experience. i used to struggle with them at work until i did a good bit of them. 3 zones is not that many valves so it shouldnt be too difficult. if they wont line up exactly right, i would recommend adding longer peices of pipe to the mainline side of the vavles and re routing the supply line futher back and you will have more room to flex the pipe and vavles into the Tees and 90s. do not use any form of flexible pipe on any mainline. you will regret it. lol the bigger the hole you dig will give you the most room and the more pipe, and room will give you more flexability to build the manifold. it is easier to connect the valves the way you did it first though, but you can do it either way. good luck and hope this helps

Q: 1990 Pontiac Sunbird, I took a piece of hose going to the egr valve to try and see if it is working properly, but with car off, I can suck through, and blow out into hose going to egr valve, and it doesn't seem like there's any seal stopping air flow either way...is it supposed to, or what is this supposed to do?: won't be able to help precisely yet this is a image of it so do the the place's waldo with this hyperlink. it is in lots of situations linked to the intake manifold the PCV is on the valve conceal and all vehicles from approximately seventy 8 on have EGR's

Q: How come my boiler supply valve isnt letting water into my boiler, i have a cold water supply hooked up to it with the valve on i have tested the copper pipe goin into it and water flows into it, but when It reaches the valve it stops. I understand that it my have a backflow preventer in it and I am wondering if that could be malfunctioning. The hole you see on the front is where my expansion tank screws in. Also where could I get a new Valve. Thanks.http://img149.imageshack.us/i/boilerfillvalve.jpg/: I work on antique steam boilers and engines for a hobby and if your supply valve isn't letting feedwater into the boiler, I'm going to tell you right now that you potentially have a VERY dangerous situation on your hands. Until you get this issue resolved, I would recommend that you not steam this boiler up under any circumstances, unless you have a backup feedwater delivery system that is working correctly. Many people don't know this, but a low water condition in a boiler under steam is essentially a ticking time bomb and can result in a fatal explosion. As to what may be causing it, I would say it's possibly one of two things: 1.) The check valve has been installed backwards and the flow of water is basically pushing it shut. 2.) The check valve is installed correctly, but is frozen shut due to corrosion and scale. Either way, I would have a certified boiler inspector come out and take a look at it; he can probably tell you more than I can.

Q: I saw that they sell a kit to block off the egr valve in my dodge neon. Since this was on a performance site what will this do? Will blocking off the valve give me more horsepower? Should I do it or not? Thanks: The EGR valve only opens when there is hard excelleration.That can cut down very slightly on your power.Your fuel system is compensated for the slightly lean affect it gives when open.If it's working correctly, you will gain very little performance by blocking it. But just blocking it off, will help a little, you probubly you won't notice though.

Q: I'm a 68 year old male. i've had mitral valve regurgitation all my life . recently an echocardiogram listed it as 3 plus. I'm in otherwise good health and continue to jog 3 miles three times a week at about a 9 minute mile rate. Is surgery advised.: relies upon if there's a click and no indications and the Echo would not point out a leak around the valve you do no longer want therapy. in case you have a click and a murmur and the Echo indictes a significate leak, could lead on directly to shortness of breath and deliver approximately heart failure. will require medicine to capability heart function,if indications do no longer respond to therapy surgical technique in line with risk necessary. Has your Dr ordered a 24 hour Holter computer screen? good luck

Q: I have several stations in my automatic lawn sprinkler system. Each station has a valve that contains: 1. Manual Shutoff, 2. Flow Control Knob, 3. Solonid, 4. Anti-Siphon valve. Any way my question is this, Why does water continue to flow even when the manual shutoff is turned off and the flow control is also turned off?: Any manual shutoff should shut the zone down completely, a flow control will limit the volume of water that leaves the valve by resticting the valve diaphram movement. If neither is working they may not be operational. A zone that continually runs either has a plunger stuck in the solenoid, a ruptured diaphram in the valve, or debris between the diaphram and valve body. If all these are contained in the valve, the most likely cause would be a bad diaphram or debris keeping the valve from closing completely

Q: so i'm replacing a one hole faucet, and i'm stuck at the very first step. the cold water valve turned off with no problems. i tried to turn on the cold water and none came out. unfortunately, the hot water valve just squeaks and goes around and around, never cutting off the water. when i turn it, it also leaks a minute amount of water, though regardless of which way i twist, it stops as soon as i do. i can't just unplug the hot water valve with it still running water, so does anyone have any ideas? how does one replace a valve like this to begin with? is it possible that there is a shut off valve for the house that i myself can access (without having to call someone to shut off my water)? in case you haven't noticed, i am a bit plumbing deficient, so if you could explain it without too much jargon, it would be much appreciated.: There has to be a main shutoff in the house, whether you are hooked up to city water or have a pump. And no, when you shut off the main valve and the pressure drops very little more water will escape the water heater. If the water heater has a shut off valve on the hot water line coming out of it, even better. Shut one or the other/or both off and drain the pressure via the sink faucet. The only water you will get when you take the problem valve off will simply what is in the lines. You can then change the valve and faucet. It's always prudent to shut off the power, or flame if the the water heater is gas, in case there is a bit of syphoning.

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