Non-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valve

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Type:	Non-Rising Stem
Material:	Body: Cast Iron / Ductile Iron Wedge: Cast Iron / Ductile Iron Encapsulated with EPDM Seat: EPDM / NBR Shaft: SS410 Stem Nut: Brass O-ring: EPDM, NBR Wedge Nut: Brass / Bronze Hand Wheel: Ductile Iron
Operator:	Hand Wheel / Bevel Gearing / Square head / Electric actuator
Face to Face:	BS5163: 1986, DIN 3202 F4-F5, JIS B2002, ANSI B16.10
Flange:	BS4504, DIN 2532, JIS B2212, ANSI B16.10/ANSI B16.50
Working Pressure:	16 Bar(200 PSI)
Design and Manufacturer Standard :	BS5163, DIN 3352, JIS B2043
Test Standard:	API 598 BS6755 DIN 3230 JIS B2003
Application:	Water works, Sewage, Public facilties, Building industry, Petroleum, Chemical, Steel, Metallurgy, Paper Making Industry, Foods, Beverage, HVAC

Q:In my condo, I have what appears to be a water relief valve of some sort right after my water inlet pipe. It's after the water cutoff valve. It's not the water heater relief valve. It has a leak, not bad, just a drip right now. It looks like a half baseball sticking out of the main inlet pipe with a bolt in the center of it. I've tried to tighten it but that makes the leak worse. First, what is this. Second, Is there an obvious fix to this. Third, if I have to get it replaced, what model/manufacturer can I get so that this doesn't happen for a long while. My plumbing is short of fifteen years old.: Sounds like a pressure regulator, cause, relief valves don't have a bolt, they have a lever. If, it is the regulator, and its leaking, it needs to be replaced. Good luck with that.

Q:I want to put a blow off valve in my car to make it sound cool lol but i dont have a turbo yet ... do i even need one?: yes, you need one if you don't have a wastegate

Q:So just yesterday i bought a second-hand ytr 2320e. After i bought it, i washed it and tryed playing it, but when i press the first valve, there is this small metal scraping metal sound kinda like if you scratch a metal bowl with a fork. I think it has something to do with the spring but im not sure.also, i was wondering if the trumpet valves are supposed to be very easy to press, or if they take a tiny bit of push.: No, there shouldn't be any scraping sounds. Yikes! It may be simply that the spring guide is misaligned. I'd pull the valve and try to make sure it locks-in when you replace it. On Yamaha's, the valve guide locks in with the valve facing forward (or backward - but you won't be able to blow through it with the valve down). So pull it. Look to see if there's a number engraved on the top section of the valve, and if so... it faces the player. Once you slide it in, turn it side to side slightly. If it won't turn, the valve guide is in place. If it turns a little, you should eventually hear the valve guide snap into the groove and you won't be able to turn it. If the scraping sound continues, the spring may be bent and need to be replaced (easy do-it-yourself kits available on-line). As to the sound, my guess is that this is just a matter of adjusting to a MUCH smaller mouthpiece than you're used to using. Everyone sounds awful when they start. That said... You should also check to see that the spit-valve corks are there and sealing the tuning slide and third valve slide completely. They'll fall off sometimes, which creates a leak and thus an annoying buzz in the sound. It's a good student model trumpet, so congrats on the purchase, and enjoy!

Q:We have a main gas valve outside and there's a gas valve by out air condition and we want to know which way if off and on .. Does anybody know !!!: If it is at a right angle to the gas line, and will travel no farther it is off. In other words, if you can turn it halfway, and it stops, it's off. (that's the way mine is, but don't take my word for it.)

Q:1st valve: this valve used to never cause me trouble at all. THen, suddenly it would stick at the end of the press. I took it home, washed it, cleaned out the casing with the casing brush, cleaned out the holes with a mouthpiece brush, and wiped it clean. Then, i put a bit of oil and it worked fine. Then next morning, i took it out for a second and found it was sticking again. It worked fine afterthat, but why would a valve to that?2nd: this valve is very troublesome. It's sticky for no reason. i did the same thing as the first, but it stayed stuck3rd. Weird valve. One day, i dropped my trumpet (not like down the stairs or anything, just while sitting) and this valve just messed up. What happened, was that when the valve was screwed in all the way, it would be stuck. however, when i unscrewed halfwayor a little less it worked amazingly well. Can a slightly unscrewed valve affect your playing (aside from the clicking noise). Can a valve get dented, causing this?: I think the reason why your valves are sticking is because they are building up sludge from being oiled too much, and yes, that does happen frequently. Remove the valves carefully, wipe them off thoroughly with a clean cloth, replace them correctly, and lightly oil them. Then try pushing the valves a bit before playing.

Q:I had the EGR valve and solenoid replaced and I'm not sure they needed to be replaced.: EGR means exhaust gas recirculator. it extracts unburned gas from the exhaust and returns it to the intake to be burned

Q:i have a 1970 chevy sb 350 and i need to set the valve lash what is the proper method and where do i start? everything is stock!: Woah, woah! You didn't say exactly what 350 you have - do you have a hydraulic lifter cam in it or is it a solid lifter cam? You cannot preload a solid lifter, and doing that with the engine running ain't that good of an idea. You need to get into the ballpark of having the proper preload in the first place in order to even do the final adjustment with an engine running, anyway. Verify what kind of lifter you have before you proceed. For a newb and for a stock engine, you really can't go wrong with the method below - it includes video assistance to help with the visual. I've adjusted hydraulic lifters on a 305 the non-running way, and on a running like the previous post mentioned, for a 350 with a performance cam. Let me tell you, even with the clips, you will make a very big mess adjusting that engine running, plus you need to be painfully careful of doing something dumb, like putting your paws near the running belts - something I wouldn't expect a newbie to feel comfortable doing. Save risking your hands for when you set the timing!

Q:I want to make a ram pump but i don't have any waste valve. So I decided to make it but i don't know howCould you help me?If you can send me pictures, video and something like that (Pleasssssssssse): Hai okorder /

Q:What are the names of the main arteries and valves?????????REALLY NEED ANSWERS TODAY!!!!!!!!!!!: Main arteries: Aorta (oxygenated blood from heart to body), Pulmonary Artery (DEoxygenated blood from heart to lungs). Main Valves: Tricuspid valve (separated right atrium and ventricle to ensure correct flow of blood), Bicuspid Valve( separates left atrium and ventricle), Aortic Valve( ensures blood flow from left ventricle into aorta). hey sorry only saw ur question today:P hope it helps!

Q:Hey quick Q, I heard somewhere that you could degrease the the reed valve? I love cleaning up my CR250 as much as I can. I just want to know if this is done, and if you could, tell me where I'm supposed to clean.Thanks.: The flow of gasoline rushing past the reeds is enough to keep them clean. No degreasing is necessary. Are you sure you didn't hear de-carbonize the power valve? If so, remove the power valve and linkage from the cylinder. Remove hardened deposits with a wire wheel on a bench grinder. Clean the parts with parts cleaner.

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