Sanitary stainless steel high quality and low price manual ball Valve

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Packaging: By cartons with pallets or as customers

Delivery Detail: Within 30 days after received T/T payment.

Specifications

Manual ball valve series
1.high quality water but low consumption of salt
2.ceramic non-ware type sealing
3.easily install

Application

Drinking Water Plants
Industrial Water Treatment Plant
Water Softener & Purifier
Water Treatment Plants
Filtration and Sedimentation Units
Flower water treatment
Solar energy water treatment system
Boiler water treatment system
Swimming Pool Filtration Plant, etc.

Sanitary stainless steel high quality and low price manual ball Valve

Q: 1995 Firebird - with digital EGR valve, I think when the engine is at idle, it would be closed, I think.Anyway, this EGR valve has 3 holes that open up whenever.I noticed that the plastic housing on them is melting a little, which probably isn't anything.but I felt around it, and I feel a little air coming out, not from the gasket part, but maybe it has a leak in one of those solnoids somewhere.My cars been idling really ruff, do you think a leak in that would cause it to idle ruff?when I drive, it's fine, runs smooth, but stopping it idles ruff.I just bought that EGR valve 2 years ago, I don't know why it would melt.: Take the EGR valve off and see if it is internally caked with carbon. Also look at the ports it lines up to on the plenum and see if they are also clogged with carbon. If they are, remove the air intake tube from the throttle body and open the throttle plate. See if the intake plenum is also clogged with carbon. If so, and I think it is, you will need to get yourself a cumbustion chamber cleaning. Those 90s GM cars were bad for this. This will make it idle rough, and also lack as much power as it should have.

Q: my dad's friend died, and dad had been keeping some valves of his. now we've been left with about 400 valves and i'm going to sell them.my main question is what are they used for? i need to write a description for ebay but have no idea what they're for! anyone know?also, how much should i sell them for? on the box it says 11 shillings, which i worked out as ?1.32, but how much should i sell them for on ebay? there's prices on ebay that are about 50p to ?1.50 for most of them, but some are about ?7 but have no bids at all. how much should i start the bidding at?also, if you could give me any other information that i should put in the description, i would really appretiate it :)they are mainly 'Mullard' valves (the company name) but some are 'MAZDA'thanks! :D: Valves (we call them 'tubes' here in the US, but 'valves' is actually a better description of how they work) were used on all kinds of electronics up to the 1970s. Radios and TVs mostly but also musical instrument amplifiers, PA system, etc.etc. In fact some high-end 'audiophiles' believe valves give you a better sound, so even today there are special (very expensive) amplifiers for both stereos and for guitars, that still use them. Only certain ones though, the ones that do final-stage amplification. And they still make the valves for these. People will want them for restoring old electronic gear, and to keep on the shelf in case one of theirs dies (they have a limited life). I have no idea what they're worth, but the answer to that question is: Whatever someone is willing to pay for them. So you have a few choices. Find shops that restore old electronics and call them and ask if they have anyone who would asses your valves, or even better, if they're interested in just buying the whole lot of them as a lot. Or go on EBay and look for the particular numbers and see what they've been selling for.

Q: i have a valve seat pop out and it did some damage my question is can it be fixed i took it to a machine shop the guy look at me with a little confusion he said it cant be done anyone out there have another answer: It depends damage. The early duel ports also cracked because the mettle used was not good. A new one is not to hard to find or to expensive.

Q: i was thinkin i needed rings cause my car was smokin like hell and had a bad compression test on one cylinder. anyways i got the head off and my valves are caked with black **** all down one side and the others are completely white. i dont know if when the car turns off if they're supposed to seal but four of them were about a quarter inch off the head. before i tested everything i was smokin like hell and barely runnin and you could hear a knockin sound in the exhaust at the rear of the car. could the head be the problem or still sound like rings??: thats the oil being burned...its either bad rings thats why ur burning oil or bad valve guides...a ring will fail first before the guide

Q: It is burning oil, so that means oil is getting into the combustion chambers....but im not exactly sure which piece has gone bad? or for that matter what the valve guides are in the first place. Could the lifters have gone bad too? Can someone tell me what piece is most likely the cause for the oil leak into the chambers and then a price of how much it would cost to have it fixed. When i start the car it blows a puff and then settles down and then when im at a stop light and push the accelerator it blows a puff and then more or less settles down...sometimes it keeps going for a while. My mechanic put an additive in the oil called stop the smoke or something, and i know that that causes the seals to expand...and it has helped. So. I need someone to give me an overall diagnosis and price range. My mechanic is reluctant to have me do the work, im guessing cause its expensive...but i would rather pay 1000 dollars then buy a new car.: a valve guide is basically a round tube that is press fit ito the cylinder head, the stem of the valve rides up and down inside this sleeve as the valve opens and closes. the stem seal fits on the spring end of the valve guide and seals against the valve stem keeping oil out of the guide [and running down the stem and getting into the combustion area when the valve opens] valve stem diameter and guide bore dimensions are close fitting but the stem is always smaller than the bore [very little oil is available to lubricate this area under normal circumstances] so both the guide and stem can wear [the guide is of a much softer material than the valve so it does most of the wearing] high mileage engines can have very egg shaped guide bores allowing stem movement which if not corrected will ruin a new set of stem seals in short order i hope that i have been clear on this but if you have more questions please ask,as there are several very knowledgeable people who answer volvo questions at this site. NOTE: the valve seat is concentric with the valve guide bore. due to machineing tolerances when the guide is replaced the valve seat will no longer be concentric with the new bore and the valve will not seal properly so the seats will have to be re-machined off of the new guide and then the valve faces will have to be machined to the proper fresh sealing angle of the new seat [hence a complete valve job as far as costs go if memory serves this job pays approx 9 hrs. labor,.plus machine shop work.[generallywith new guides seals resurfacing and a pressure test and cleaning about 400+ or- and related gaskets seals fluids timing componants i suspect the final bill may be above 2 grand but if you kept up with oil changes and the bottom end is't hurt your car is well worth this expense

Q: Is there a devise to reverse the flow to a cylinder. Not the pump. But a inline flow deverter that would shift the flow from one side of the cylinder to the other at the end of the stroke automatically without a person interjecting.ie it extends fully then the flow reverses retracting it fully. Then the flow reverses, and it extends fully and so on.Preferably, with as little lag as possible during the transition.I want the pump to run constantly(not reversing) and the cylinder to run constantly. Do not worry about the heat generated.Would love something that ran off the main cylinder(like a secondary piston or valve that would opendivert flow at the end of the stroke) through linkage. But, I am open to electronics if need be. Further more want the return to be metered so that the push and pull forces will be the same(metered through a smaller opening to adjust for the rod).Thankyou: That I know of, there is nothing you can buy to do this...it would have to be built into the cylinder. A steam train main piston and valving does exactly as you describe, but through a linkage. You could hook up a MAC manual cylinder reversing valve (below) to a bar attached to the piston rod with adjustable stops to shift the valve at each end of the stroke. No electricity or electronics required, just air. Check with Parker for same valve for hydrualics.

Q: Grade seven, my teacher's a pain. She didn't even explain the 'sets', we just know what valves are in general. So.. which set of valves closes when the ventricles contract? Relax? Thank you so much!***10 POINTS***: Atrioventricular valves close when it relaxes and the lunar valves close when it contracts

Q: ok so my 1993 bonneville started shaking and its smells like gas fumes in the car, so i cant drive it cause i have a newborn baby.so i took it to the dealership, they said codes 53,54,55,42,66 came up. they said i needed a new cadiletic converter, so i went to a local muffler shop. they said it was glowing cause it was so hot and said that wasnt the problem.i called the dealership back and they said they cleaned the egr vavle but said maybe it needs to be replaced, well before i spend any money i wanted to get everyones opinion, the car drive great, only shake when ur at idle. and smells awful inside uld this be the egr valve ?: Having the CC being cherry red is a bad sign- and I think that the muffler shop got that part wrong. If the smell is like rotten eggs, the converter is definitely bad. Going by the codes, they are all the fuel mixture- and I would think that the cause might be the starting problem with the CC (I'd fix the problem first, the CC might just be OK). A lean burn condition will set all the codes you are finding, except the 66 (A/C pressure sending unit). It is going to sound kind of funny, but I would start with the fuel filter (just change it, they are cheap but can be a pain) and after that I would pop can the EGR to lock it out and see if the problem goes away- don't leave it like this, the thing is needed for the engine to run properly: Take the EGR off the engine- two 1/2 inch bolts on either side. Cut the ends off a pop can and cut it to fit the EGR and the bolt holes, and put it in between the manifold and the EGR and bolt everything back up. If the problem goes away, it is the EGR system back feeding exhaust into the intake at too low of RPM's. You still might find that the convertor is bad- that much heat melts the guts of the thing and creates back pressure that the engine cannot handle- just try the other two first just in case, the convertor is expensive.

Q: Hi, I'm looking for asymmetrical two way valve needed in pipe line liquid product: Valve company has been able to fulfill the requirements of its customers according to the highest standards, and always consider the customer satisfaction, so we would be grateful to receive their viewpoints and comments. So we also hope to contact us if they need further information, confirmation on any product. Please note that according to continually work on improving our products, all products materials, specification, dimensions, and etc. listed are subject to change without notice.

Q: Why would oil be leaking from a blow off valve?i own a 05' gti 1.8t, i have had the blow off valve for about a year now, its a HKS SSQV, but i just revently noticed that when it blows off, there is a spray of oil that comes out..... why would it be leaking oil through the blow off valve? i know VW dont really go well with blow off valves, but it hasnt given me any problems until recently....: It is turbo rebuild time sorry The internal shaft seal has gone bad and if you don't act fast the impeller and shaft might not be able to be saved. Also if you don't heed that warning the impellers can strike the turbo housing and pieces can be blown into the engine.

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