• Non-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valve DIN3352 System 1
  • Non-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valve DIN3352 System 2
Non-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valve DIN3352

Non-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valve DIN3352

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Type:

Non-Rising Stem

Material:

Body:  Cast Iron / Ductile Iron

Wedge:  Cast Iron / Ductile Iron Encapsulated with EPDM

Seat: EPDM / NBR

Shaft: SS410

Stem Nut: Brass

O-ring: EPDM, NBR

Wedge Nut: Brass / Bronze

Hand Wheel: Ductile Iron

Operator:

Hand Wheel / Bevel Gearing / Square head / Electric actuator

Face to Face:

BS5163: 1986, DIN 3202 F4-F5, JIS B2002, ANSI B16.10

Flange:

BS4504, DIN 2532, JIS B2212, ANSI B16.10/ANSI B16.50

Working Pressure:

16 Bar(200 PSI)

Design  and Manufacturer Standard

:

BS5163, DIN 3352, JIS B2043

Test Standard:

API 598  BS6755 DIN 3230  JIS B2003

Application:

Water works, Sewage, Public facilties, Building industry, Petroleum, Chemical, Steel, Metallurgy, Paper Making Industry, Foods, Beverage, HVAC










Q:non-return valves
..?..non-return valves..? I will assume that your 'non-return valves', are what is also known as check valves. Check valves allows flow in one direction only. These are used wherever you need to prevent backflow into the system, or to maintain a charged circuit with fluid, until you choose to unload(depressurize ) it. Now, why are they used in discharged lines of salt water, basically to prevent backflow....reason not known, here , requires usage info.
Q:Which is worse ? And what causes it? I was told I had mitro valve prolapse but I m symptoms had worsen and so I saw a cardiologist again today and they said I have mitro valve regeritation.
MItral vale prolapse is the problem that is causing the regurgitation. Regurgitation is backward flow of blood. Prolapse is a situation where an anatomical part has slipped out of its normal position. When a heart valve is prolapsed it doesn't close completely, and blood leaks backwards when the heart beats.
Q:Beneath my kitchen sink are two shut off valves for the water; one for hot, one for cold. The hot water valve has never successfully stopped all water flow, so we've always resorted to shutting off the main line. Well, now that's not working. We shut off the main water line to the house, all water everywhere is non-functioning except for the hot water pipe beneath my sink. It's now causing the faucet to constantly stream water, so it's something we have to resolve ASAP. I'd like to avoid calling a plumber, but my knowledge in such areas is very limited. Can anyone give me any decent suggestions? For the record, I did take apart the faucet fixture just in case, thoroughly cleaned it, and replaced all of the washers I had access to; but we only just bought the faucet in September, so I can't see a worn washer as being the problem. I also tried to tighten the nut behind the handle on the valve. It didn't effect the dripping.
The faucet is the problem, not the valve under it. If you just bought the faucet, it shouldn't have any washers in it. Washerless faucets have been the norm for 15 to 20 years now. You need to replace o rings or entire cartridges and the cartridge valve seats. Cartridges are designed to only work one way, but can be installed backwards, so pay close attention to directions that come in the package. To get the proper parts, you need the manufacturer of the faucet (Moen, Peerless or whatever) and you need to know if it's a one handle or two handle faucet and if it's a vanity or kitchen faucet. When getting these parts, you are better of going to a small hardware store or plumbing supply store. They do sell them at Lowe's and Home Depot, but the personalized, professional and knowledgeable customer service at a small hardware or plumbing supply store is invaluable if you don't know exactly what you need. The guy in the plumbing department at Lowe's may or may not know what he is talking about. If you type replacing faucet cartridge and seats into google, you will come up with several videos and how to web sites to show you how to do the job. You should also look at replacing the valve under the sink and the main, so you can shut the water off all of the way. Sometimes on the main if you just open it and close it a couple of times it will break up the lime residue on it and work properly. If it leaks externally, rebuild or replace it.
Q:I have 3 such valves in the line and none seem to be able to move past 10/4 oclock position and water remains on. Is there a way to adjust valve? Seems there is slot for screwdriver in center of valve.
The threads are stripped, you will have to get a new one, until then shut off main line into house if you are flooding
Q:I got a french horn, but don't know if I can just use the valve oil I use for my trumpet. please help, thnx in advance :D
Yes and no. Most pro repair shops use a heavier oil on the bearings and your valve oil on the inside of the valve. Confused? On both ends of the valve are the real friction points, the bearings. One can be seen under the valve cap. Take the cap off and push the valve, the little post you see moving in the middle is the bearing. The other one is on the underside. It comes out of the valve body and has the string post screwed on it. The only point to oil the bottom bearing is that little crack you see where it comes out of the valve body. You put a drop of sewing machine oil on those 2 bearing spots, 3 in 1 oil also works. Then pull a valve slide and put a few drops of valve oil down into the valve. That is how it is done. BTW, there is no difference between valve oil and rotor oil most of the time.
Q:I noticed when I pulled my pcv valve off the valve cover the entire guts were missing. what would this make the car run like?
It would just make a bunch of oil pool up in the intake. If it was plugged it could damage seals.
Q:Okay I know lots of people wonder what is better presta or schrader...well I realy don't. My bike was made for presta and thats what I have a question about. So I just got my bike back after is being stored away for a few years, so yeah it was neglected. Question is now that I am doing a tuneup on it I found out the valve came out of the tube. I don't know if that is normal and if I am able to put it back in. It looks like there made for the valve not to come out but I just want to make sure before I go out and buy a new tube. Hope you can help. Thanks. -Sarge
Get a new tube. It is likely that the rubber has rotted away on your current tube. The last one I bought was about $3. I replace tubes about every 2 years even if I haven't had a flat with them. HTH
Q:i was told my egr valve needs to be replaced, so im wondering if the system cleaner will help at all. thanx
With an egr valve it's the diaphragm leaking,additives will not help that
Q:when riding my motorcycle valves start knocking i took to a mechanic and they did not resolve problem. i have baby ed my motorcycle. dint know what to do at this point and time.
Charlie, I know it is hard to transfer a sound into a word. but valves don't knock, they clack. So if it isn't a clack it isn't a valve issue. Sadly you haven't helped us to diagnose the issue by giving the make and model of your bike. That would really be a help. I would like to help you further so if you hit my avatar you will find my email address for direct contact so I can help you further if you can't find out more help form the other guys.
Q:will adding a bypass valve onto an air filter effect gas milage or horsepower?
bypass valves are for cars with forced induction IEturbocharger,supercharger it allows the air that would normally be expelled into the atmosphere blow off valve and instead putting it back into the intake which helps with less lag in building boost again. If your car is not turboed or supercharged then forget it.

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