Non-rising Stem Resilient Seated Gate ValveDIN3352 F5

Non-rising Stem Resilient Seated Gate ValveDIN3352 F5

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Type:	Non-Rising Stem
Material:	Body: Cast Iron / Ductile Iron Wedge: Cast Iron / Ductile Iron Encapsulated with EPDM Seat: EPDM / NBR Shaft: SS410 Stem Nut: Brass O-ring: EPDM, NBR Wedge Nut: Brass / Bronze Hand Wheel: Ductile Iron
Operator:	Hand Wheel / Bevel Gearing / Square head / Electric actuator
Face to Face:	BS5163: 1986, DIN 3202 F4-F5, JIS B2002, ANSI B16.10
Flange:	BS4504, DIN 2532, JIS B2212, ANSI B16.10/ANSI B16.50
Working Pressure:	16 Bar(200 PSI)
Design and Manufacturer Standard :	BS5163, DIN 3352, JIS B2043
Test Standard:	API 598 BS6755 DIN 3230 JIS B2003
Application:	Water works, Sewage, Public facilties, Building industry, Petroleum, Chemical, Steel, Metallurgy, Paper Making Industry, Foods, Beverage, HVAC

Q: Need some info. Ok, four valves per cylinder is better than two valves per cylinder. Fine, why did Ford REVERT to only 3 valves (my guess is to save cost SOHC)? Audi and VW are using five valves per cylinder on some cars, does this offer any advantage over a four valve engine? Maserati even experimented with a six valve per cylinder!!!! (see link) http://www.maserati-alfieri .uk/alfieri26.htm but abandoned it (my guess is cost again?) Why are we stuck at four valves or would more valves actually render more horsepower? Pop some ideas best answer to reasonable answer...: There are multitudes of problems to resolve and strike a balance... ...In a zero valve, 2 cycle operation , clearing the cylinder of exhaust and recharge it is as basic as it comes..... ...In valved, 4 cycle operation, one valve each for exh and intake, has the least add-on linkages/cams , but limits the speed and completeness of clearing the exhaust and fully recharging the intake. By adding additional valving, the rapid removal of exhaust and recharging is accomplished, at great expense for add-on linkages/cams etc, and great loss of power...since you have many more items to accelerate and decelerate. The ideal valving, is to effectively remove the cylinder head for exhausting, and replace it for charging, but it would be a mechanical nightmare......therefore, compromises are made...2, 3, 4,6,....total head ???cost.. st...vs performance.

Q: What are better valve cover gaskets for a car? Cork kind? Or the rubber kind? Or either rubber/cork kind?: cork gives u a better seal

Q: It's filling up a 5 gallon bucket roughly ever 9-10 hours. It was leaking with an old valve and has been replaced, and after being replaced it didn't stop. The temperature has not been adjusted higher or lower, it's exactly where it was for the year before the leak started. Any ideas?: You might want to check the water pressure in your home. If it is too high, when the water is heated it expands and may exceed the pressure setting of the TP valve. You may need to lower the incoming pressure or install an expansion tank. Good Luck

Q: What are the function of reed valves on a motorcycle?: They allow a fuel/air mixture to enter the area under the piston in a two stroke engine on the compression stroke, as it is a one way valve when the piston is coming back down the gases are forced up through the tranfer ports into the combustion chamber.

Q: Hi, I am a junior in high school and I play the trumpet. For the past week or so my 1st valve has been odd. It gets stuck badly when it hits all the way to the bottom, and I can't seem to get it to stop. Normally when valves are sticky I just use some valve oil and it helps a lot. But it doesn't seem to work this time. It is a Bach if that helps. I think there are other types of valves so I'll say that there is a spring inside from like the middle to top. If you could help me out that would be great! Thanks =): No, it's ok, they are both the same. I've been using trumpet oil on my trombone slide for the past 4 yrs. It is less expensive, ad usually in stock. It's not bad. If i've used it for 4 yrs. I'm sure you can use it too! my BFF even used to use my trombone oil, that's how i ran out in the first place. I hope you do well with your instrument! Both are made of the same oil products. But i don't reccomend using cooking oil, or vegtable oil, it is too thick and makes the slide/valves greasy and is very hard to get off. Hope this helps.

Q: Electric Hot Water Tank Pressure Release Valve Leaking, Why?: Our big brother( homeland security) has instructed the water company's to install anti back up valves in the water system to keep us safe from terrorists trying to back flow chemicals into the water system. I would check with water company and see if this has been recently done at your house meter.The problem is no where for the pressure to go when the water heats up. you will as all others will have to install a pressure expansion tank. If you find this not to be the case I would put a pressure gauge on one of your outside water valves and check the pressure.as the safety valve you are referring to will start to re leave some where around 70lbs and pop at 150 lbs. to keep from too much pressure build up. This can be caused by a tiny leak in the pressure regulator located in the incoming line. Hope this helps

Q: We have a 4 station sprinkler set-up. On the 4 station (last station to run) the Sprinkler headers are struggle to pop up water. From inside the house I hear the valve making a noise, that continues through out the entire run cycle. Any ideas on what causes these 2 problems to occur?: Sounds like you have a valve that is not opening up fully. Is the noise coming from within the valve box or from the plumbing inside the house? I am assuming that it is coming from the valve box itself. If the valve is not opeing fully at that 4th station, the low volume of water flowing through the opening is causing a humming sound. And, with a low volume of water entering the lateral lines, your last station heads will not popup all the way, or may not popup at all. Check to make sure that you have no soft, wet, mushy areas on the turf in the last station area that would indicate a lateral line breakage or leek. If you do not see this occuring, you more than likely need to change out the valve and replace it with a new one for that particular system... Hope this answers your question. ...Billy Ray

Q: I need to make a one way valve that would allow water or other fluid one way but if there is too much pressure on the opposite side the valve will close and stop water from flowing backward. Can anyone help?: We need to know what exactly the work/purpose your 'one way valve' has to perform. You have given overall description that got you fairly good answers here. But if you really want to solve a problem by yourself (instead of going to any plumber) then you have to understand that the one way valve used for garden drainage system is different than the swimming pool drainage system and numerous other household applications one can think of where 'one way valve that would allow water or other fluid one way but if there is too much pressure on the opposite side the valve will close and stop water from flowing backward'. Let me assume that you are in a place where neither plumber nor the hardware shop is readily available. In that event you may consider placing one ‘flap-valve' on top of the outlet pipe. The valve is simple metallic piece may be from tin, iron, plastic etc., that can withstand the force applied by water/liquid on it. The flap-valve would have to be hinged hanging from top part of the drain/pipe in a way that it can move away with the pressure of the inside tank or reservoir and then would shut-off when reverse flow (RF) would occur, by the force created by the RF. If you have seen any Tube Well or DWT Pump then you may notice that these are also having a RF (Check Valve) mounted either at the bottom of the sunk-pipe or somewhere in-between. This help in having the flow of ground water upward only and any reverse flow back to the ground is automatically restricted as the 'flap' would fall onto the pipe orifice due to gravitational weight as well as weight of water column on top of it. Hope this would help learn the basics.

Q: I got a '99 bmw 740il that is leaking and burning oil. It shoots smoke out the exhaust when i first start it from burning oil. And the car misfires when idling, i did a tune up and the spark plugs were soaked in oil causing the tune up not to help anything for long cause it was missfiring the next day. Does this sound like the valve stem seals? I bought new valve cover gaskets and grommets and im gonna replace those this weekend, im hoping that will help. Comments please: Bad okorder /

Q: I'm trying to estimate the amount of gas lost when a relief/blowoff valve is opened on a pipeline. If I know the valve opening size, pipe size, gas pressure, and the duration the valve is left open. Ex. A 12 inch pipe operating at 400 psi has a 4 inch relief valve that is open for 5 minutes. How much gas has been release? Assume constant flow of gas. Thanks in advance: Below is one of many sites with software for sizing relief valves. Each relief valve has a specific orifice size usually indicated by a letter such as A, B, C etc. With this and the other information on the gas being relieved you can calculate the rate the valve is relieving when it is open. Note: most of the time you will be in the critical flow range so once the valve is open the flow rate will be constant until the pressure falls and the valve reseats.

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