Multistage Single Suction Centrifugal Pump

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General Description

D/MD/DF/DY series pump is multi-stage single suction sectional centrifugal pump with excellent hydraulic model, it has advantages of high-efficiency, energy-saving, wide performance range, operating safely and steadily, low noise, long life and convenience for installing and repairing etc. It can deliver heat water, oil, corrosive or wearable medium by changing material of the pump or coupled with extra cooling system.

D series pump is used in mine and urban project for delivering clear water without solid particles or other liquids which are physically or chemically similar to clear water. The temperature of liquids must not exceed 80℃.
MD pump is used to deliver neutral water with solid particles below 1.5% (viscosity less than 0.5mm) and other sewage water. It is suitable for using in steel factory and mine etc. The temperature of liquids must not exceed 80℃.
DF pump is used for delivering corrosive liquids without solid particles, the temperature of liquids is -20℃～105℃.
DY pump is used for delivering oil and petroleum liquid without solid particles and viscosity below 120 centistokes , the temperature of liquids is -20℃～105℃.
The inlet pressure of above pumps is less than 0.6Mpa.

Performance Range
Capacity: 6.3-600m3/h
Head: 22.8-650m

Instruction of pump type
For example D(MD,DF,DY) 85-67X3
D: Multi-stage horizontal centrifugal pump
MD: Multi-stage wearable centrifugal pump
DF: Multi-stage anti-corrosive centrifugal pump
DY: Multi-stage oil centrifugal pump
85: Rate capacity is 85 m3/h
67: Rate head is 67m
3: 3 stage(3 impellers)

Structure
Type D (MD,DF,DY) pump consists of stator, rotator, bearing and shaft seal:
1. Stator: main parts is suction casing, stage casing, discharge casing and Diffusor, they are screw up by poles to become a working house. The suction direction of type D pump is horizontal, its discharge direction is upward; the discharge direction of type MD, DF, DY pumps are upward, the suction direction is horizontal, they can be made upward according to user requirement.
2. Rotor: it is consist of shaft, impeller, balance disk, and shaft sleeve etc. shaft supplied power to impeller. The axial force is balanced by disc. The shaft sleeve is mounted on shaft to protect shaft.
3. Bearing parts: it is consist of bearing body, bearing and bearing cover etc. The bearing of type 85-67,155-67,600-60 pump is sliding bearing, lubricated by dilute oil; the other pump bearing is rolling bearing, lubricated by grease.
4. Shaft seal: it is usually adopted soft packing seal, consist of sealing house on suction casing, packing , blocking water ring, the seal house have some pressure water to cool. Lubricate and seal pump. Type D pump pressure water come from pump itself, type MD, DF, DY pump pressure water is come from pump itself or outer water, type MD, DF, DY pump usually adopt mechanical seal .
Drive
The pump is driver directly by motor through coupling. View from motor end, the rotating direction of pump is clockwise.

Q: And would a water pump off any 302/5.0 fit the 1985 F-150 302/5.0 whether it was from a Mustang ,or Crown Victoria: What year is the Mustang/Crown Victoria? Best of luck!

Q: Pump suction and pressure side road why should vacuum table and pressure gauge, and what role they have?: The water pressure (vacuum) is measured by the vacuum meter. The pressure gauge is used to measure the pressure at the water end, and the difference between the two is the lift of the pump

Q: Weap seal is starting to leak and getting some noise from the water pump. These cars are not as easy as a 1969 Camaro to change the water pump. Can you please give me some guidance? Thx in advance.: It's easier than you think. Pull front covers off under hood that cover radiator area. One is a plastic guard and under that is the metal support. Pull electric fan out by onbolting it from sides and 2 clips on top and eletrical connector. Now you have room to work. Loosen belts by losening bolt in center of pulley then loosen them by turning adjustment bolt. pull off belts then pull off these pullies with their brackets as one unit off front cover. Take off front covers by taking off 10mm bolts. Crank area has a triangle shaped plate and you can and just loosen bottom 10mm bolt and take off the two above. now slide cover up and you can see water pump. Set cams on their marks for reference, they have a dot on cams and a slot on housings. loosen timing belt tensioner on bottom of engine and evenly pull bolts to get slack on timing belt about one inch should be enough. now you can pull pump off and slide it out being carefull not to let belt slip on cams and lose timing. install the same way, then slowly turn each bolt up on hydrolic tensioner to ease tensioner center pin back to position. make sure timing marks are ok then put everthing back by reverse order. Or you can also pull radiator and bottom crank pulley with a 3 jaw puller and replace belt with new one. This involves pulling out tensioner also. tensioner can be collapsed in vice slowly then use suitable pin to go through cener pin and its case to keep it collapsed, set on new belt and pull pin after tensioner is installed to set belt tension. I hope this helps, Iv'e done this on a few 3.5 litres my self. GOOD LUCK.

Q: I think my water pump is leaking and I want to replace it, but I can't figure out how to get the pulleys off. There is a large nut on the shaft that the pulleys are on, and I can't figure out how to remove it, or if the nut is attached to the shaft, and the entire shaft is supposed to come out, or how it's set up. Please help. Pictures would be great if possible. Thanks!: The nut that holds the fan on the water pump must be turned clockwise to loosen it,if you do not have a wrench that will fit in there you can use along screw driver and hammer locate the tip of the screw driver on the edge of the nut and hit the other side of the screw driver with the hammer one or two blows should do it,and then spin the fan and see if the nut turnes.If this does not work you need to get the proper wrench.I have done both but i had to buy the wrench from Snap On and another tool to hold the water pump bolts.

Q: I've searched the net but cannot find exactly what I'm looking for and hoping someone out there can steer me in the right direction! Maybe I'm not looking in the right place....or do I have to fabricate my own? I'm up for the challenge!1) Trying to source a water pump that I'm going to power by HAND or a BICYCLE. 2) My choice of pump to give a continuous stream of water (very important) is a rotary (centrifugal) type or is there something else capable of a continuous output?3) This will NOT BE USED for potable water. SPECS:a) lightweight but durable, the smaller, the better. b) low RPM, high volume output and capable of producing/handling pressure. c) self-primingd) able to handle some small particulates in the water as I am using rain water. (from outside, NOT filtered, so the following may be present: bugs, dust, etc...) Thank you, in advance, for your help and would be nice to thank the individual(s) for a unique answer to my request at a later date so let me know you're preferred method of contact!: Those are widely used where hand or bicycle or animal power is common. It meets all your criteria except pressure. Depending on how much pressure you want/need a stand pipe or elevated tank might meet that requirement. If pressure is necessary, then go with a Double Acting Piston Pump and filter the suction. I recommend a Graded Sand Bed over the suction. I designed public water supply pumping stations drawing from rivers for years. Filtering the suction is no big deal.

Q: I would like to ask, the pump power and flow, there is no formula can be converted? For example, the flow of 9000 tons / hour, then how many units to accompany, how many kilowatts of water pump?: Pump shaft power (kw) = water supply (L / s) x lift (m) /102 * efficiency = flow * lift * density * acceleration of gravity.Explanation:102 is the unit collation constant.Pump effective power / pump shaft power = pump efficiency (general 50%--90%, large pump higher)Unit time pump liquid volume flow is, flow by Q, a unit of measure: m3 / h (m3/h), L / S (l/s), L/s=3.6 m3/h=0.06 m3/min=60L/minG=Q G refers to weight - liquid proportionThe energy obtained by pumping a liquid of a unit weight is called a lift. The pump head, including suction stroke, is approximately the difference between the pump outlet and inlet pressure. The lift is expressed in H, and the unit is m.The efficiency of a pump is the ratio of the effective power to the axial power of the pump. ETA =Pe/P pump power usually refers to the input power, the motive power to the pump shaft, it is also called the shaft power, denoted by P. Effective power is the product of pump head and mass flow and gravity acceleration

Q: I just had my water pump/timing belt replaced and oil change. When the pump failed, white smoke was coming out, which I figured out to be coolant from the smell. Now there is smoke coming out from under the engine, which I believe to smell like oil. Also, the temperature gauge goes up to the halfway point when I am at a stoplight or idling. The highest I have ever seen it is at 1/3.I had my car serviced by the dealership and I asked them. The man said its burning oil residue from the oil change and that it will burn away in a few days. Is this true? I have had my car worked on and oil changed for the past year at this dealership and have never had any smoke or other problems. What else could be going on? Worse case scenarios. Thanks everyone.: Looks like you should have went ahead and bought the Volkswagen now don't it?

Q: me and my friends are contemplating going on a road trip.almost 20 hours of driving.but we dont have a water pump, can you drive without one?: Safe - Yup Because you wont be driving for long, your engine temp will go through the roof fairly quickly and probably cause the head gasket to blow/engine to seize. It wont happen within two mins as the engine need to reach temp first and even without a pump it will circulate to a slight degree, but it is slight and NOT to be trusted or relied up, watch the gauge and how quickly after starting it goes into the red. Buy another water pump, get a fresh gasket, fit it, refill your system and enjoy the road trip.

Q: Whats the difference between a faulty water pump and head gasket? The coolant reservoir has a quot;bubblingeffect when the car is running. I just changed the radiator and filled it. Most of whats in the radiator is water honestly. The car sounds a little rough and sputtery like a head gasket. The spark plugs are dry and I took the cover off and nothing looked watery or moisturous. I also had to change the head and head gasket a month ago. The head gasket didn't have any damage to it so I assumed the head was bad. I used a new head gasket also. Anything else I can check? The car is a 91 corolla.: properly in case you place the water pump in 3 weeks in the past and you probably did no longer have a leak until final nighttime i would not suspect the pump.i'd take it to a radiator save and characteristic them tension try your gadget to be sure in case you have a leak and probably inform you the place that's.I in basic terms have been given completed the pinnacle gasket situation on our ninety 3 ranger with the 4.0 engine and the two heads have been leaking anti-freeze.good success to you.

Q: 2000 Jetta GLX VR6Problems:- AC is no longer working- The Reader said quot;STOP!quot;CHECK COOLANTI pulled over and checked the Coolant and it was full- The Car will overheat to about 260 whenever I am sitting with the Engine Running- When I start the car its on Zero Degrees and then Slowly makes it way to 190 degrees which is in the middle quot;Normalquot;- Oil Seems to be fine---- What does this sound like to you??--- Also, The VW Dealer said I needed to be without my Car for Two days so I will drop it off Friday Night and leave it until Wednesday. Do you think it will last until Friday driving 60miles a day??-- If it is the Water Pump... How much do you *think* I am looking at paying? I am taking it to the VW Dealer b/c I have a Recall they need to fix too.: This does not sound good. If it is the water pump, there is a very good chance that you will severely damage the heads and/or block by continuing to drive it. I would not drive it at all, unless you want to risk the expense of a re-built engine (more than $5000 plus installation). If it is the water pump, and not covered under warranty (and I would really get on them about that) less than $1000.

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