JET Self-priming Centrifugal Surface Water Pumps
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 unit/month
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1.Introduction JET pumps are with an automatic ejector system, widely used in domestic applications, gardens and supply water 2. Construction Pump Body: Cast Iron/Stainless Steel/Brass Front Cover: Cast Iron/Cast Iron with brass insert / Aluminum Impeller: Brass/Aluminum/PPO Mechanical Seal: Carbon/Ceramic/Stainless Steel Motor Housing: Alloy Aluminum With Thermal Overload protector in single phase motor. 3. Operation Conditions Suction head up to 9M Liquid temperature up to 60C 4. FAQ 1) Are CNBM pumps available in DIY stores? Yes, currently, we’re available for DIY stores all over the world. 2) Where do I have to send pumps for service? You must send them to the CNBM PUMP Service Point or, after contacting Customer Care, to the CNBM PUMP service center in China. 3) Are your pumps acid-proofed? To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.
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- Q: Is it cheaper to run an electric water pump or a furnace?
- If you live down south in the good old USA, yes it is cheaper money wise. Initial start up costs can be really steep though. I just saw a great system that has solar power along with the geothermal that was $15,000.00 You may want to own the house and I hope it is worth it as it will be awhile before you even out on the costs. This was a 3000 square foot home I saw the system in, so it may be cheaper, BUT, may even be MORE to install because your place may be smaller and what are local regulations ? Good Luck.
- Q: i have a well that i am trying to pump and i need to have one pump to bring the water up from the well, and one pump to take it out to our lawn. i just wanted to know if i could hook the irrigation pump directly into the well pump, or if that would be damaging to the pump?thanks!
- The problem with hooking up two pumps directly to each other (with just a pipe in between) is that one will work faster than the other. If the faster one is first, then the pipe in between will get pressurised and force water into the second pump, perhaps damaging it or the forcing pump. If the slower one is first, then the pipe in between won't be full and the second pump will be running dry.
- Q: Our water pump was really warm/hot to the touch, our hot water was more warm than hot, and wouldnt heat up enough to get hot, and it wouldn't turn off. (like when it starts up when you turn on the water,it just kept going,and wouldn't stop) so, because it was hot, and going constantly, we didn't want it to explode, or burn out, so we turned it off, and now I'm hoping that when we turn it back on after it cools, that it'll go back to turning on/off intermittently, instead of constantly. So, after it cools down, will it go back to normal, instead of just constantly going??!?
- I assume you have a water well pump. The experience I have had, is it will come back on once the thermal safety switch cools down. However, I think you still have work here to do because each time this happens, you are shortening the life of your pump. First you need to determine why it ran hot to begin with. Could be lots of reasons, but just to name a few. -Is your water tank in good shape, with the correct air pressure? -Is the tank waterlogged, too old or leaking? -Any leaks in the service in or to the house? -Is your contact switch working properly, clean contacts, good wire, good connections, breaker etc.? -Is there water running somewhere your not aware of? -Last but not least, the check valve and foot valve leading to the well could also be defective. Just my opinion, I hope this helps to get you thinking. Good luck; flip;
- Q: Recently my car overheated on my way to work, and so I decided to give it some much needed TLC.I have replaced all in the last week:Spark PlugsDistributor Cap + RotorTiming BeltRelated to the cooling system:Water PumpThermostatAnd the heater still blows hot air so I believe the heater core is fine. Unfortunately even after a couple of radiator flushes the car continues to overheat. I'm considering replacing the radiator because I think it might have too much debris inside to flow properly.I used ZEREX Radiator Super Cleaner but was only able to acheive an hour and a half of driving before my car would not be able to drive anymore. (Supposed to be 3 hours, car temperature began to escalate far beyond what I'm confortable with) I also used ZEREX Radiator Super Flush to no avail.Any suggestions?Car info:Toyota Camry DX 19913S-FE Engine 2.0L I4 1998cc244,500 miles
- Check to make sure your radiator cooling fans are coming on. Also when you say your car overheats are you going by the gauge in the dash or is it actually bubbling over? Might be as simple as a new radiator cap (not allowing the pressure to build up) coolant temp sender or switch. (should be in the block), or your fans might not be coming on.
- Q: Pump house should be equipped with those equipment and valves
- The room should be full of equipment!
- Q: i want to hook a pressure booster pump to a well pump so i can have some pressure out of the well, is this doable?thanks!
- If you connect two pumps in series and not parallel the pressure will increase but you need to have them connected so if the well stops running the other does also.
- Q: For a Dodge Ram 1500 pick-up. Not taking it to a mechanic.Already got the new pump. Got part of the engine off.Dont exactly have the right tools to make the job go fast but would like some tips on how to make it go faster..
- Honestly having the Chilton or Hayes repair manual will help greatly in understanding how it should all come apart. They run about $25.00 at you auto parts store. Having the proper tools will make the job go as smooth and quickly as possible. Most basic kits and be picked up at auto part stores for around 65.00 bucks. This is the best advice I can give a beginner who has just jumped right in there. Watch what you are taking apart and make sure that it is something that HAS to come off. There is no reason taking something out of the car if it's not going to help the project. When you picked up the water pump did you make sure to get too new radiator hoses? I will often replace the upper and lower hose when I do water pumps. Most likely they have been on there as long as the pump and it's time to change them. Not to mention now would be a great time to replace the thermostat on the engine as well to allow proper water flow through the engine. Also make sure you have the distilled water handy with the anti-freeze. Using distilled water keeps the radiator from becoming clogged with minerals that are normally found in your city water. It helps extend the life of your cooling system. I hope this helps. If you have any more questions feel free to E-mail me.
- Q: I was wondering how to replace the water pump in a 94 Plymouth Voyager. Its my moms van and she is scared that they are going to have to pull the motor to get to the water pump to replace it. I dont know so i am hoping one of yall wonderful people do. along with your answers can you give me an estimate of how much it will cost to fix? Please!!!
- 94 Plymouth Grand Voyager
- Q: I was wondering if anyone could help me figure out why? Problems started when our car overheated due to neglecting to refill the coolant a while back. The coolant tank got cracks in it and we had to replace it- but now the water pump is leaking, says my husband- should we just replace the water pump or could this be a bigger problem? Why is it leaking all of a sudden now? (please no snarky rude answers , I'm looking for help not to be scolded! Yes we neglected to add more coolant-- damage is already done so don't bother making a ridiculous comment about it!)Thanks!
- it is just a coincidence but quite possibly the water pump was leaking before and that caused the coolant loss in the first place. Having the tank loosing it's coolant wouldn't cause the overheating it is only a reservoir for the extra coolant.The cooling system only takes from it when it needs it and if your system boils over will push it there rather than the ground.
- Q: HelloI am building a small budget underground room. On top of a very waterproof and airtight (besides vents) building, and running a dehumidifer inside, I would like to install a pump underneatth the foundation to suck out water from the soil surronding the building but I'm not sure what kind of pump would be best?Also how would b e the best way to set this up?
- What you want is called a sump pump. Most have a system built into them that is triggered by rising water. The idea is to have a hole beneath that allows the inevitable water that will collect a place to go, then when a certain amount gets in the hole, the sump pump comes on and pumps it out to wherever you have the hose or pipes ran to. Being underground, good luck keeping the humidity level down. It won't be easy, and much depends on where your natural water table is, and what it is during rains. Someone in your area might know all that, I don't.
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JET Self-priming Centrifugal Surface Water Pumps
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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