Horizontal Singlestage Fire Fighting Pumping Unit D series

Horizontal Singlestage Fire Fighting Pumping Unit D series System 1

Horizontal Singlestage Fire Fighting Pumping Unit D series

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 1000 unit/month

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Packaging Details:	Standard exporting wooden case
Delivery Detail:	Within 7days after received the deposit

Specifications

multi-stage fire fighting pump trailer
Flow 1450 m3/h
Head 133m
Mechanical sealing
Nodular iron,stainless steel

multi-stage fire fighting pump trailer

Advantages

1.Directly coupled, vibration proof and low noise.

2.Same diameter of inlet and outlet .

3.C&U bearing ,which is the most famous brand in China.

4.Circulating flow cooling ensure mechnical seal long life .

5.Small foundation required that will saving construction investment by 40-60%.

6.Excellent seal that is no leakage

Application

Apply as the transportation of liquids in the fields of air condition, heating, sanitary water, water treatment cooling, refrigerating system, liquid circulation, water supply, pressure boosting,sea water delivery and irrigation etc.

Working Conditions

Rotating speed: 3600r/min, 1800r/min, 2960r/min, 1480r/min

Medium: clean water or other liquids similar to clean water in physical and chemical properties

Medium temperature: -10 ~ 80°C,400°C available under special design

Ambient temperature: Up to 40°C

Range of capacity:1.8~2000m3/h

Range of head: up to230m

Maximum working pressure: suction pressure+head of pump≤25 bar

Pump Construction

Casing/impeller:cast iron,stainless steel,copper,bronze

Shaft:carbon steel 45#,stainless steel

Mechnical seal:graphite/silicon carbide/tungsten carbide

Structure Description

Compact structure, most application for modern constructions.

1.Pump casing: the spiral casing with pipe connection is designed and manufactured by the most superior bydraulic model nowadays, with inlet and outlet the same diameter. Flanges conform to GB4216.5, and are equipped with Rp1/4 or Rp 3/8 pressure testing plug.

2.Impeller: closed impeller ,no limit to rotation direction under the water temperature below 80°C and 120°C.

3.Special design of dynamic seal ring ensure well seal and reliable operation..

Motor

TEFC air-cooled squirrel cage, 3 phase asynchronous motor.

Voltage: 220V,380V,400V,415V,440V,660V(other voltage ,pls inform before order)

Frequency: 50Hz,60Hz

Insulation : IP44/IP54/IP55

Protection class: B/F

Insulation modes: B35

Q:I have replaced the presure switch on my water pump but it switches on and off when it is building up presure instead on staying on until it gets to right presure.Any ideas of what is causing this?: This can get sticky, so pay attention and keep up. Every well system has to have a pump and a resevoir tank. The older style tanks used the air that gets trapped in the top of the tank and compressed, to push the water back out when you opened a tap. However, over time water and air will mix together a little at a time until there's very little or no air left at the top to compress, and we all know that you can't compress water, so when that happens, the pump starts up, the pressure switch realizes that the pressure is instantly at the shutoff point and shuts back down, sometimes over and over in an almost self perpetuating cycle, until you shut the power off. With the advent of the new bladder tanks, where the rubber bladder installed in the center of the tank keeps the air on top at a certain pressure and the water coming in the bottom away from mixing with the air, these problems pretty much go away, until the bladder breaks and allows water to flow up into the top area. Then you have a very expensive old style resevoir tank, with the same old waterlogged problems. If you have either of these types of systems then you can remedy the situation for a short time at least, by completely draining the tank with the pump off and then shut all the valves above and refill the tank, allowing the water to pressurize the air. If you have the bladder tank and it's acting that way, then you may want to replace it, or just use it as is. You can always pressurize it from the top and drain it by putting enough air in it to blow all the water out and then start over.

Q:I just posted another question a few minutes ago, but not really much help with the one answer I got. I'm now sure that what part I'm feeling on the back of the engine block is the water pump on my 97 Grand Am 2.4L twin cam POS car. I somehow got my hand back there enough to take pictures to see what I'm feeling. Noticed in one of them that there is a bolt missing! This area was very wet with coolant. Would this bolt missing cause the pump/cover to leak? Makes sense to me. If all the bolts aren't there, then there wouldn't be proper seal, right? Had this engine put in a few months ago. The guy who did it seemed to miss a lot of things.: Yes, a missing, or broken bolt on the water pump can cause a leak. Either way, if you are showing coolant from the bolt hole, or around the gasket area, it is most likely due to the seal not being tight with the missing, or broken bolt. You must check to see if possibly the bolt has broken off, and not merely been left, or worked out. Most times when a bolt appears to be missing, it is broken, and part still remains in the threaded part. If this is the case the water pump must be completely removed to get the broken bolt out, and then install a new gasket, and all the proper bolts. Tighten them to the proper specifications. It doesn't hurt to use a gasket sealer when you install the new gasket. It's messy, but I find the best to be Form-a-Gasket #2. This is a non-hardening gasket sealer, and very sticky. It is actually much better to use than silicone, but not easier. To check to see if you have a broken bolt just stick a pin, or toothpick into the hole to see if it will go deep into the threaded portion of the mount. In your pictures it appears that there is nothing behind the mount lug, so a pin, or toothpick should go completely through the hole. If the bolt is broken off with the threaded portion still in the mount you will feel it with what you use to probe the hole.

Q:Is the pump head related to the water level of the entrance and outlet? If the water level of the inlet and outlet is on the same level, but higher than the height of the pump, does the pump lift need to be coupled with this height difference?: Pump head refers to the inlet and outlet pressure head, that is to say, the entrance resistance greatly affects the pump lift, of course, this inlet resistance has a degree, too large water pump does not bring water or cause water pump cavitation. If the water level at the pump inlet is the same height, the inlet flow resistance of the pump may not be considered.

Q:What motor does the pump use?: Hello, the pump is generally used permanent magnet synchronous motor, and if the motor is not too understand, you can consult the motor suppliers, according to the model to choose their own use.

Q:Where can I get supplies to build water pumps, for decoration.Thank you.: Home Depot, Lowes, Michael's craft stores, waterfall and water feature stores, Target, WalMart and sometimes Big Lots. I've also found supplies to build decorative water pumps at my local nurseries, Green Thumb and Armstrong.

Q:Im changing my water pump and it has a pully that the belt gos on in front of it and the pully has 1 big bolt in the middle of it and like 4 small ones around it and when i try to undo the bolts the pully turns and im not quite the mechanic but i do know that the pully has to come off 1st so how do i take out the bolts without the pully turning???? and yes the belt is off and battery id disconnected and the car is not hot it hasnt ran in days. and it has a 3.4 v6: actually it works better if you leave the belt tight on the pulley, the tension holds the pulley so you can loosen the bolts, and even that big one, I think, you will need a decent pulley puller to get that pulley off, I suggest you buy a new water pump if you can afford it, otherwise you will but putting water pumps on every year or so, as rebuilt are not long lasting, best of luck, be careful around that radiator with the fan.

Q:An engineer is given the job of designing the water system for a tall building. He decides to locate the pumps at ground level and feed the entire building from there. If the top floor of the building is 236 m above ground level, what must the pressure be at pump level?: you must use density*gravitational acceleration*height. density=1000kg/m^3 Gravity=9.8m/s^2 height=given=236 m 1000kg/m^3*9.8m/s^2*236m=2312800kg/(m*... = 2312800 Pa=2312.8Mpa hope this helps, looking at the units it all works out: N/m^2=kg*m/(s^2*m^2)=kg/(m*s^2)=Pa

Q:I was wondering if there was a device that can pump and cool water. What I am looking for is essentially an aquarium pump that cools the water as it circulates.: You okorder /

Q:Hi, my mechanic said that I need a new water pump. I have a 1994 Dodge Caravan SE. What is involved with the whole changing of a water pump? He said it would cost about $400 to $500 for the whole job. Is that correct? Were is a good place to go get one? I live in Staten Island New York. Is sears a good place for that job? What is installed when they do this job? Belts or what??? I thank you for your time and any help is greatly appreciated. I will be taking my car in this week and will leave a best answer based on the correct information. Thanks again :-): does your van have a 3.0,3.3 or 3.8 litre engine? If it is a 3.0 liter engine then the job involves removing the timing belt. Book time is 4.5 hrs. The other two engine is much simpler, only 1.0 hr to replace the water pump. So since most garages charge about $100/hr it will cost you $450 and $100 respectively. Also it would be wise to change the thermostat and flush the system at the same time. That would be an extra 1.4 hrs or $140. Note: the serpentine belt has to be removed to do this job, so if it is worn replace it. There should be no extra labor, just parts cost.

Q:All the water to my house comes from the river close by - via a 1500kw surface pump, into a large pressurised tank. If there is ever any kind of blockage in the pipe - or if it freezes ...this causes the pump to run - 'dry' - which eventually burns out the motor. I have lost 2 pumps so far because of running dry - and they are very expensive.I would like to fit some kind of automatic cut-out - that will ALWAYS stop the pump running after 15 minutes or perhaps less - as that is ALL the time it needs - if the water is flowing freely - to fill the pressurised tank. I feel sure such a thing must exist - but I do not know what it is called or where to buy one. Does anyone know of a 'switch' of this kind? And where to look for one? What could I put into google to do a search - for suppliers and prices, please?: the best thing is buy a submersable pump it is cheap and never burn

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